As you can see on the pics, the leaves suffered some damage. I think it was damaged by a bit too much light for a bit too long. My approach when I grow it next time would be more Calmag (just a try) so the N is under control, and again strong lights. 😎 For now, the plant seems happy! 💚 DAY 57 Watered with nutes. 💧I always do 2L and stop when I see runoff. Tried to battle the millions of fungus gnats with nematodes.. 🐛 After watering, added the nematodes to the moist soil and covered the pot with a black plastic bag, so the bugs don't get sunburned. 😎 DAY 60 Keeping the soil moist now. 🐛 Watered with nutes again. 💧 I must say this plant stinks alot. It smells like dirty clothes which were in a closed box for weeks. Sweat, dankness, sweetness as well, but remember cherries differently. But I think that cherry coke has also kind of a dulled aroma, just like if noone would tell you what it is, you wouldn't know.. Gods, please, make it smell like cherries!!! 🙏 TS1000 was put higher at 50cm now, running at 75%. 💡 🍒 ❤️ 🍒 ❤️ 🍒 ❤️ Have a wonderful week! 😘 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 🍒 _____________________________________________ SET UP Mars Hydro LED TS1000 sponsored by @coco_pan2022 😘 https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-lights/ts-1000-led-grow-light custom exhaust fan 270/320 m³/h 3x Garden High Pro fans 5W tap water EC 0,25 - adding Calmag to EC 0,4-0,6 - adding pH minus Bloom (AHH) to pH 6,5 50% Plantaflor organic tomato soil 🍅 50% biobizz Lightmix

Crazy seeing how fast it’s growing! Having fun

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

week 6 of flowering start tomorrow. im not going to give them anymore nirvana, kushie kush and alfa boost. At week 7 of flowering i'll start flushing

Cha-ching!🤑 Added some to my fertilizer mix. Bubba looks better than ever, gradually growing pistils 😎

Vamos familia, actualizamos la octava semana de floración de estas NoName de Seedstockers. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 24-25 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. En cuanto a las plantas pues estas últimas semanas cogimos un poco de trips y pues ahí ando combatiendo con planchas pegajosas de color azul, estiraron bien y ensancharon bastante también. Las flores se están llenas de tricomas estan madurando, aún con la plaga, por el momento todo correcto. Ya estoy regando solo agua, para limpiar las raíces y demás. Hasta aquí todo lo de esta semana , ya queda nada, buenos humos. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

This is the end of week 3 I do not count first two weeks of flower or transition phase

Day 42 / Week 6 Flower begins today - 22/12/2021. EC - EC has been a little high, rising to as high as 1.9 overnight after approx 16hrs since last feed. Inflow is 1.3 and will probably remain there or even be backed off slightly to 1.2 until the plants show they require more as if it keeps rising I will have to lower the EC slightly. I believe it is the Ultimate PK sending the EC higher as that is the only thing that has changed. Still giving less than half of what mills suggest and the girls don’t seem to mind, if anything they are getting slightly overfed as above suggests. Multifeeding - I am currently feeding every 4 hours, 2 hours after lights on and 2 hours before lights off for a total for 3 x per day, 2l per plant per feed. Always with 20% or greater runoff. Defoliation - I am still only removing about 7-10 leaves per plant every 4 or 5 days if they are beginning to cover or shade bud sites below. If they are not causing issues, I won’t remove them as I don’t want to cause any unnecessary stress at this stage. “LST” - The string is still attached from the “LST”, it does not seem to be affecting the plant and is keeping centre of the plants exposed pretty well so I’m trying to just keep the string on. As the weeks go on, if the branches require support instead of tying down, I will tie them up the frame of the tent probably. Both girls buds are beginning to fatten up, especially along the main branches are becoming more developed and more colours are coming on MOP 2 which is the more purple and prettier of the two phenos (for now). Even the lower stuff on both girls is a lot larger than the last time so I’m happy already as I’d imagine the tops will be even larger and there is still approx 3 weeks / 21 days remaining. Can’t wait to see how much more these progress in the coming weeks. 🙏🏻🤙🏻💚

Welcome to week 2 of my Bubblegum XL diary, genetics by Royal Queen seeds. Looks beautifull, no starting problems. Grows fast since day 1. Small full spectrum burple cob light is doing its job very good, and as you can see the plant is growing as we like it to. GHE changed its name to Terra Aquatica, so its terra aquatica nutrients -- update day 3 wk2 Repotted into 15l rqs smartpot -- update day 4 wk2 Topped/fimmed plant, lets see how it comes out in the future Added small after-transplant video

Day 52 - before pic/vid pulled em both out scrubbed tanks..... moved em into a different tent, with a different light.... did up completely different solutions, and currently still building it all.... Day 53 - still buildin... vids of new home... Nutrifield, Rock Nitro, 1200-1500 ppm and 6.5 PH.... see if we can give em a good boost.... left em in pure water before puttin em in new solution.... Day 57 - pics vid.... been adjusting ph... down to 5.8.... they are just growin along nicely in the new home... got a fan for the tent... looks good tho... solution temp is abit high, fan will fix that..... changed just the tanks to 5lt Cereal containers, they are alot taller, more room below the container... fits perfect.... Day 59 - pics vids, , 6.2ph, 1300ppm ... water temps been getting abit high, fans should arrive next week.... 👍😎 120W Aluminum+PC Plug 2835SMD 7995-9594LM 1131Pcs Red+234Pcs Blue * Blue(wavelength: 430nm, 554nm * Red(wavelength: 630nm 660nm)

Formula 1 Royal Queen presents: [Medusa]; Orion; Epsilon; Titan; & One sssecret seed… Watch them, topman, and see the revolution. Here goes!

Harvest day 73 since the time change to 12/12 hrs. Hey guys :-) Finally the time has come . The lady was harvested. After the trichomes have been checked (70% milky 30% amber) as always, it was left in complete darkness for 48 hours before it was neatly trimmed by hand. After trimming, she was put back in the drying tent on nets. There they are allowed to dry for the next 8-12 days at 62% humidity before they are put into the jar to ferment with 62% boveda packs. After about 4-6 weeks in the jar I will swap the 62% boveda pack for a 58% boveda pack where it can be ready for another 4-6 weeks to enjoy :-). As always, the remains of the leaves are used to make Ice o Lator and oil. Of course, as always, there is a final update during the fermentation process. Until then, I wish you all a lot of fun with this update. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 👍. You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy this Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4

Just that color. Wow! It is so nice. I love it, My personal favorite 😍. Looks happy :) so I am happy.

Zdarec, začínáme první týden květu a holky se krásně rozjely a jedou nahoru. 😎 Dvě z devíti jsou zatím trochu pomalejší, ale věřím, že to brzy doženou. Krmení aktuálně 2 ml/l AN Connoisseur + 2 ml/l CalMag. Dneska jsem přidal Vivosun C08 a odvlhčovačku, takže už máme systém uzavřený a můžeme pořádně pracovat s CO₂. Jsem zvědavý, jak to holky ocení. :D Díky za sledování a ať to roste

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D15/V11 - 30/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D16/V12 - 01/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D17/V13 - 02/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.6 pH: 5.8 🌡️ T: 20 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D18/V14 - 03/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.6 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D19/V15 - 04/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D20/V16 - 05/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D21/V17 - 06/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 Calmag, Grow A-B 💧5L 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video

Getting close!! Chopped a bunch of used up leaves off, took some microscope shots yesterday, got a boom arm coming so I don't have to rely on my steady hand for the microscope shots but still looks cloudy/clear w/o an amber to be seen when looking at the trichomes as of Monday. Pistils are still mostly white but rapidly advancing. Fastbuds advertises a chop day between 63 and 70 so we're in the window and heading in the right direction. A chop before the end of the week is possible.

2 of plants started fading a little I feed them with compost tea and organic nutrients of biobizz I want to test something on one of my plants. Light Compost tea 2 times a week I fed them compost tea once a week from early veg until now and there is no sign of nutrients burning its 33 degrees celsius they need watering everyda

Week 1 of flower for Space panda by Atlasseed, Pheno 1 was fed her 2.7g of BioBloom per L of soil, watered that in and flipped it to flower 24hours ago. As more room opens up in the tent ill spread her out a little more. Also wont be defoliating unless necessary as I'm trying to bring up the humidity a little. While Pheno 2 im going to keep in veg for a week or 2 longer as shes a little behind on size.

Week 11. Day 35 roughly, most of these are 63-70

Nada de complicaciones.