Hello, I will start the harvest on June 5th, a purple punch brings a week longer. 🔥💚🔥

Seente de somango teve um crescimento absurdo em apenas 3 semanas de vega!a semana de transição se inicia hj 09/03 com elas no 12 por 12 !proxima semana ela deve ter seus pequenos cabelos brancos em dias e o tamanho tb deve chegar aos 60 cm !por enquanto e só!

Pretty uneventful so far, the seedlings are growing. Humidity could be higher, I guess. Light is at 40%. I am planning on moving the plants over into the Autopots maybe in the coming week, maybe the week after. In the green box are still some clones from the previous run, which are just being kept alive at the moment in case one of them is a keeper, but they will move to a different place when the seedlings are transplanted into the Autopots.

She has grow very well and the buds are nicely cover in crystals

Day 50 since seed touched soil. From now on all is in stable position. Joe always will be in left corner, under fan, he was lowest, so it was smart to put him under. Plants dont grow well next to fan. 5 liters went in, want good run off and saturation. Later today will install second level of scrog. Reposition all shoots, some are lost, i almost regret instaling scrog, lost control of even height a bit, but canopy is very dense, branches went fatter during that week, i am happy . Mars TSL2000 is on 80% will increase to 90% at the end of this week. Day 53. Second level of scrog almost eaten, will have to make third, plus heavy clearing awaits next week ... Day 54. Think tomorrow is watering day. Girls need good clearing, bottom canopy been canibalised heavily, lack off air shows a lot. Will do third level of scrog together with watering. Day 55. Watered Joe, he is lowest, but looks nice. Think all deficiencies behind. Made light clearing, only bottom shoots which has 0 chance to make it, took part of LST down. Watering exposed roots - plant is occupying new lair , good sign ;) Happy Growing !!!

Germination 20 September 2023 Heya 🤙👍🤙🌱🌱🌱 In the heart of a humble garden, a miraculous journey is about to unfold. Beneath the soil's dark, nurturing embrace, a seed lies dormant, awaiting the precise moment to burst forth into life. It is a marvel of nature, a tiny capsule of potential, encoded with the blueprints of the plant it aspires to become. As the heavens open, raindrops penetrate the earth, quenching the thirst of the soil and signaling to the seed that its time has come. The seed absorbs this life-giving moisture, swelling as it takes in water. It's as if the seed is awakening from a long slumber, stretching its embryonic limbs for the very first time. Within this subterranean realm, the seed's outer coat softens, and a tiny rootlet begins to emerge. This is the radicle, the seed's first root, and it instinctively knows to journey downward, anchoring itself into the soil. It is the plant's lifeline, seeking out water and nutrients essential for growth. Simultaneously, a delicate shoot, known as the plumule, makes its way upwards, drawn by an invisible force towards the sky. It is a daring expedition, fraught with obstacles, as it navigates through the soil. Yet, guided by an innate sense of direction, it perseveres. Finally, breaking through the soil's surface, the shoot unfurls its first leaves, miniature versions of what they will one day become. These are the cotyledons, a pair of leaves that have been stored within the seed, packed with nutrients to sustain the young plant in its earliest days. As the sun's rays touch these fledgling leaves, photosynthesis begins. It's a momentous occasion, the plant's first breath, as it converts sunlight into energy. The seedling, still fragile yet full of promise, has successfully embarked on the first chapter of its life. From here, it will face countless challenges and opportunities, but for now, it stands as a testament to the remarkable resilience and complexity of nature. Thank you for Reading 👍🤙👍🌱

A lot of rain, crazy weather.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

unfortunately I broke a branch during the lst session 25/11 😥 👍Orange Bud Autoflowering Seeds AIRE POTS CULTURE ( VRAIMENT sativa) Orange Bud is a Sativa-dominant hybrid that will give you the burst of energy you need to get your day started. Instead of grabbing the orange juice in the morning, opt for Orange Bud instead as it's the perfect wake-and-bake strain. As its name suggests, Orange Bud will produce big beautiful buds covered with orange hairs. https://marshydro.eu/collections/ts-series/products/ts-1000/ https://marshydro.eu/products/100x100x180cm-grow-tent/

week two flower everything looks healthy :D today i defoliated them i watered them with 1.5l every 48h the light i use was set to 80% and it hangs 80cm away from the tops

Hi guys! The girls are on FD 52,and they look and smell awsome!It's my last update before the harvest.And the update on the harvest is cooming when I have dry buds,and I can weight them. Stay green!

Poderia ter saído melhor mais foi muito boa a experiência !! Valeu✌️🏼👽600

The 2 out in the bush growing really tall Doing topping on one of them Been a week full of sun... next couple of days lots of rain.. and then lots of sun! Can’t wait to see them grow taller and taller 😍

Day 1-2 All plants topped, defoliated and lollipopped. Getting ready for the last stages of outdoor veg. Spring has cause the plants to be very leggy so topping, defoliating and lollipoping will help the plants through the final weeks of veg getting more bushy and pushing more energy to the tops. Clones taken. Plants sprayed with lost coast to help prevent bacteria or fungus infections aswell as mite preventions as all the mites are now gone. *knocks on wood*. Preventative spraying will continue. Day 3 Sunny 89* - 68% Humidity - slightly windy Nice sunny day and the plants seem to be recovering from yesterday’s abuse and everybody is praying. Watering two times a day now as the heat is on! Day 4 Only watering conducted. Give thanks. To be continued……..

Keine Komplikationen, alle Pflanzen sehen gesund aus und entwickeln sich gut. Der Lichtzyklus wurde über 6 Tage hinweg schrittweise reduziert, jeden Tag eine Stunde weniger Licht. Heute ist der erste Tag mit 12/12 Licht-Dunkel-Zyklus und damit der offizielle Start der Blütephase. Erste Anzeichen der Blüte sind sichtbar, Internodienabstand nimmt zu, das Wachstum verlagert sich in die Höhe. Keine Mangelerscheinungen oder Stressanzeichen. In den kommenden Tagen wird das Stretching genau beobachtet. Ab nächster Woche beginnt das Monitoring der Vorblüten.

Die Seifuku kämpft seit mittlerweile ungefähr vier Wochen mit den Schädlingen. Um dem endlich Herr zu werden, wurden beide Pflanzen in einem Bad mit Spruzit Neem getränkt. Der Wirkstoff ist extrahiertes Azadirachtin und damit komplett unschädlich für uns (in diesem Kontext), und wir sorgen zuverlässig dafür, dass wirklich jede Larve dieses Zeug abbekommt und die Seifuku endlich normal wachsen kann. Zwei Tage nach dem Bad wurden beide ordentlich mit FertiPlus eingesprüht, einem Aminoboost mit etwas Stickstoff, damit sie sich schneller erholen. Die Sour Zoda wächst einfach extrem buschig, kaum Höhenwuchs, aber mit so vielen neuen Trieben und enorm großen Blättern. Deshalb habe ich die Lampe etwas höher gehängt, damit die Pflanze sich hoffentlich etwas streckt. ----------------- The Seifuku has been struggling with pests for about four weeks now. To finally get rid of them, both plants were soaked in a bath with Spruzit Neem. The active ingredient is extracted azadirachtin and therefore completely harmless for us (in this context), and we reliably ensure that really every larva gets in contact with this stuff so that the Seifuku can finally grow normally. Two days after the bath, both were thoroughly sprayed with FertiPlus, an amino boost with some nitrogen, so that they recover more quickly. The Sour Zoda is simply growing extremely bushy, hardly any vertical growth, but with so many new shoots and enormously large leaves. That’s why I raised the lamp a little higher, so that the plant will hopefully stretch a bit. _ Die Seifuku erholt sich nicht und es ist viele Blätter komplett verwelkt und wurden entfernt. Keine Ahnung warum, aber ein weiterführen ist nicht wirklich sinnvoll, deshalb wird nur die Sour Zoda weiterwachsen.

She's doing well so far. I gave her another tps of Bat guano to increase the grow during stetching stage. I also switch my 7L pot to a 13L one. Next week she's gonna get only daylight so 11/12h a day in my area. The rain is falling every 3 days so when she's out she get an extra watering

NEW PLANTS ARE GROWING 💪👍 I thank Zamnesia for giving me the chance to participate to Spring Cup contest. This time i will grow two BlueBerry Automatic strain form Zamnesia!! Germination and Seedlings: This grow cycle started with put the two seeds in pre watered Jiffy pallets(I place them in the grow box). After four days the new plants sprouted from the Jiffy😍 and i prapared the soil and I let him rest in the grow box to adapt to the enviroment and facilitate the transplant in the end of the week. The soil was made by mixing BioBizz Ligth Mix soil with Monster Bud Mix by BioNova x Zamnesia. I put 21L of soil and all 150g of Monster Bud Mix in a bucket. After well mixed everything I put the soil in the two pots i choose too use( before I had place a leayer of clay pebbles on the bottom of the pots), one is the 11L fibric pot by Zamesia and the second is a 9.5lt plastic pot. During the germination stage I sprayed every day water on the Jiffy to keep the humidity and the soil moist. The seedlings stretched a littel bit from day 4 and day 7. The enviorment of grow box: 18h Ligths On Temp/Umidity => 20-26 °C / 40-55%

Preflowers show up ill remove the lst next week and let them go I still only give hard tapwater everytime the soil feels dry the soil was fertilized for 100 days, this week runoff comes out at around 2000ppm

You say My plants is good or not?