Our Monster Dwarf Automatic #2 is the most resin-producing monster of this autoflowering season, bursting with energy from every stomata, trichome, and the fantastic microcosm I photographed for you. The buds are firm, truly of high quality, especially in terms of resin. Maturity - The resin content is excellent. The trichomes are amber, with some very beautiful red heads when ripe (about 60%), with some white/cloudy ones (20%), and a few transparent ones (20%). There are quite a few beautiful red-headed trichomes, as mentioned. The pistils are almost all red (about 85%). Remember, the plant should be harvested according to your tastes. Since it's an indica-dominant plant, I want to make the most of the relaxing side, and I let this plant mature quite a bit longer than usual for me. Remember: Amber is a sign of THC oxidation, so don't overdo it! The overall shape of the plant is truly splendid. Techniques chosen: As mentioned, we performed a not-too-intensive LST here, followed by just pruning, lollipopping, and defoliation. Essentially, we cleaned the lower parts, which, as mentioned, helps us achieve better results on the surface. We're 100% organic and 1000% Plagron, as always. The soil we chose is the recently launched Plagron Bio LightMix, which will allow us to start with smoother and more reliable watering, without the sudden changes that liquid fertilizers can cause. A week's worth of soil is sufficient, so don't overdo it. Choose your preferred style and calculate your results on the website: www.plagron.com Visit the new Growshop area on the Zamnesia website: Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/531-growshop A fantastic strain, a heavenly scent, above-average resin production! Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/en/4330-zamnesia-monster-dwarf-auto-feminized-seeds.html Z - Monster Dwarf Auto is a new addition to the Zamnesia range. Extremely compact, it's the size of a bonsai tree. This autoflowering strain boasts numerous qualities. To create this hybrid, Zamnesia combined some of the best autoflowering strains with an exceptional Skunk female, preserving all of its autoflowering characteristics. Its name should already give you an idea of ​​what to expect from this plant. Monster Dwarf Auto is small and mighty! It maintains a very compact structure, never exceeding 40-60 cm in height, proudly displaying a large quantity of compact, elongated buds towards the end of flowering. This strain is suitable for small grow spaces. It performs equally well in larger grows, both indoors and outdoors, and requires no special growing skills to achieve excellent results in about 8-9 weeks. Given its autoflowering nature, even less experienced growers can easily achieve excellent yields of 60 grams per plant, without requiring any special attention. Thanks to its Skunk genetics, it's no surprise that Monster Dwarf Auto is capable of releasing very intense aromas and developing beautiful, compact buds completely covered in resin. Its Skunk lineage is also evident when smoking it: the effects are worthy of an incredible Skunk hybrid, full-bodied and very relaxing, yet capable of keeping you sociable without being excessively heavy. Monster Dwarf Auto is a small, fast, and easy-to-grow plant. Despite its small size, it stands out from other autoflowering cannabis strains! You know it, but I recommend it. Here you will find many wonderful things, essentially "the best that nature has to offer." Z - www.zamnesia.com Music // www.radionula.com + Feng Shui Music + 432 Hz Frequencies

- Semana 4 🌱 🌡️ Ambiente Hemos mantenido el clima bastante estable durante toda la semana: 🌞 Con luz: 24–26 °C 🌙 Sin luz: 23–24 °C 💧 Humedad: 55–65% estable Actualmente estamos en 25 °C y 60% HR bastante constantes. Aumentamos extracción e intracción al 50%, unos 250 m³ ambos. 💡 Iluminación Potencia al 60%. PPFD medido con Photone: ~500 PPFD centro ~400 PPFD laterales Distancia media foco-plantas: entre 35–45 cm (según altura de cada planta). Hemos ido rotando: Cada planta sobre sí misma cada 24 h. Cambio de posición cada 3 días (las más altas a los laterales, las más bajas al centro). La diferencia entre centro y esquina es de unos 100–150 PPFD aproximadamente. 💧 Riegos y nutrición Esta semana hicimos: 🔹 Riego fuerte de limpieza 2,5 L por maceta pH 6,2 EC 0,8 (solo agua base, sin fertilizante) Drenaje superior al 30% en alguna para eliminar exceso de sales y estrés de las raíces. Decidimos hacerlo así para estabilizar después de notar que una de las BC reaccionó mal tras un riego anterior con abono. Regamos cada 2–3 días las que más comen y cada 4 días las menos hambrientas y estresadas. En semanas anteriores utilizamos base de crecimiento junto con: Silic Pro CO₂ Pro Los últimos días optamos por no añadir comida en el último riego para resetear un poco el medio. ✂️ Podas y estructura Hemos hecho poda ligera y estratégica: 2–3 hojas por planta. Eliminación de hojas que bloqueaban nudos. Nada agresivo. Los nudos están muy juntos, entrenudos compactos y tallos gruesos. 📊 Estado por grupos Actualmente tenemos: 1 BC muy fuerte (~30 cm). 1 planta sobre 26 cm (podada). 4–5 plantas sobre 17 cm. 1 planta de 23 cm que estuvo tocada de raíces. 3 más jóvenes creciendo bien. 1 BC con un poco de estrés y acumulación de sales. El canopy está bastante homogéneo dentro de lo razonable por fenotipos distintos. ⚠️ La BC amarilla Esta es la planta que más atención ha requerido. Síntomas que presentó: Verde lima general. Amarilleo en hojas bajas. Algunas puntas quemadas. Decaimiento leve. Hojas inferiores que se volvieron crujientes. Crecimiento más lento que el resto. Lo curioso es que esta planta siempre fue más clara desde el inicio, incluso antes del trasplante. Después de un riego con fertilizante, empeoró ligeramente, por eso decidimos hacer el riego solo con agua EC 0,8 y buen drenaje. Actualmente: No está empeorando. Tiene más de 6 brotes activos. Las hojas nuevas salen verde claro y luego oscurecen. Solo amarillean las más bajas. Va más lenta, pero estructuralmente está viva y trabajando. 📈 Crecimiento Algo importante: En altura no han crecido casi en la última semana. Se han quedado prácticamente igual. Pero: Muchísimos nudos. Troncos gruesos. Ramificación fuerte. Estructura compacta. 🎯 Conclusión de la semana Semana de estabilización. Clima estable. Luz controlada. Riego ajustado. Poda ligera. Observación de la BC problemática. El cultivo está sano en general. Compacto, estructurado y con mucha ramificación. La BC lenta sigue bajo vigilancia. 🌿👀 Veremos el progreso la siguiente semana. Saludos compis y buenas vibras 🐭

my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are one of the hardest as fucking rocks type of buds! very dense , compact , sticky , smelly , amazing at every aspect growing stage was 56 days and flowering stage was 75 days total (harvested tops at day 64th) the total weight of dry buds was : (plant #1 & #3 top buds 56 G + lower buds 22 G ) 78 G + (plant #2 top buds 47 G + lower buds 18 G ) 55 G + (plant #4 top buds 120 G + lower buds 67 G ) 187 G = 367 G

These girls are impressive! There in 485ml pots (solos) and have grown to an impressive 24” the flowers are developing famously and can see fft7 has fades coming through on the leaves so expecting some flavours on her! She also has one main stem shorter than the other by a considerable amount! As for fft10-11 they both have great structure and have even tops and the flowers are developing with finesse! Loved all these testers can’t wait for the release so I know what strains they are!

planted 10 gorgeous autoflowers, everything went up on the third day

Good week, she's cloudy so I'll be chopping at the end of the week.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Umstände

alright, how y'all doing? this week I did defoliated both plants, for the last time, I hope. The Rd started to flowering few days earlier, and the SS on the other hand, is very small in size, I confess when defoliating the next day it looked I didn't do lol. 😵, but yeah I noticed the plants now are going int flowering so no more defoliation for now.. SS its showing it gender but still very shy 😜, I keep telling her, hey, don't be shy be like your friend right there all showing off.. 😇. alright.. feeding schedule.. I was doing some research and couldn't find much at all about mixing different types of fertilisers brand... so I got this advanced nuts ( carlbooad was sent cause they ran out of bud candy but in the website it was available nd on the email I said to send me the big bud then but whatever.. 😕.. I did made a mistake with the nirvana. ( the bottle says> 2 ml/l during all grow fase and during weeks 3 till6 of blooming. ( on the website doing some research found only tu use during weeks 3 till 6 on bloom.)) so with that said I just used as the bottle said, and it was too late, I mean when I realised I had done it already, some lets hope and prays for the best kkkk.... so for the next feeding this week I won't add nirvana yet..will wait 2 more weeks and then put back inside 😆. so. I guess its all for today. let me know ur comments below and suggestions, if had the experience mixing different fertiliser and etc.. even if it was a bad experience pls comment.. thanks y'all c u next week... 👊

0.23v tuned to 7.83Hz Plants exposed to the Schumann resonance often show greater resistance to stress factors such as drought, diseases, and pests. It is possible that these natural electromagnetic waves strengthen plants' immune systems and increase their ability to resist disease. Pretty neat, in the afternoon when the tent hovers around 84F the plants are 🙏, can visually see in time around 10 minutes after I opened the tent the temp had dropped to 76 pressure was lost, she is still chilling but she doesn't quite have that perk anymore. *Salinity3.5% - 100ml H2O=100g The concentration of salt in a solution 3.5%= 3.5g in 100ml. Growing well. Not going to top or do any training, I'll let the plant do its own thing, she is constructing foundations now for what she senses ahead. Smart girl. ✨️ Let her, do her thing, let me do mine. The voltage that is needed for electrolysis to occur is called the decomposition potential. The word "lysis" means to separate or break, so in terms, electrolysis would mean "breakdown via electricity. Green hydrogen is hydrogen produced by the electrolysis of water, using renewable electricity. The production of green hydrogen causes significantly lower greenhouse gas emissions than the production of grey hydrogen, which is derived from fossil fuels without carbon capture. Electrolysis of pure water requires excess energy in the form of overpotential to overcome various activation barriers. Without the excess energy, electrolysis occurs slowly or not at all. This is in part due to the limited self-ionization of water. Pure water has an electrical conductivity of about one hundred thousandths that of seawater. Efficiency is increased through the addition of an electrolyte (such as a salt, acid or base). Photoelectrolysis of water, also known as photoelectrochemical water splitting, occurs in a photoelectrochemical cell when light is used as the energy source for the electrolysis of water, producing dihydrogen . Photoelectrolysis is sometimes known colloquially as the hydrogen holy grail for its potential to yield a viable alternative to petroleum as a source of energy. The PEC cell primarily consists of three components: the photoelectrode the electrolyte and a counter electrode. The semiconductor crucial to this process, absorbs sunlight, initiating electron excitation and subsequent water molecule splitting into hydrogen and oxygen. Water electrolysis requires a minimum potential difference of 1.23 volts, although at that voltage external heat is also required. Typically 1.5 volts is required. Biochar, a by-product of biomass pyrolysis, is typically characterized by high carbon content, aromaticity, porosity, cation exchange capacity, stability, and reactivity. The coupling of biochar oxidation reaction (BOR) with water electrolysis constitutes biochar-assisted water electrolysis (BAWE) for hydrogen production, which has been demonstrated to reduce the electricity consumption of conventional water electrolysis from 1.23v to 0.21v. Biochar particles added to the electrolyte form a two-phase solution, in which the biochar oxidation reaction (BOR) has a lower potential (0.21 V vs. RHE) than OER (1.23 V vs. RHE), reducing the energy consumption for hydrogen production via biochar-assisted water electrolysis (BAWE). BAWE produces H2 under 1 V while eliminating O2 formation: key word "eliminating". Air with a normal oxygen concentration of around 21% is not considered explosive on its own; however, if a flammable gas or vapor is present, increasing the oxygen percentage above 23.5% can significantly increase the risk of ignition and explosion due to the enriched oxygen environment. The addition of ion mediators (Fe3+/Fe2+) significantly increases BOR kinetics. Air: Nitrogen -- N2 -- 78.084% Carbon Dioxide -- CO2 -- 0.04% Hydrogen in homosphere H -- 0.00005% Hydrogen "GAS" H2 in homosphere - 0% "Nitrogen, oxygen, and argon are the three main components of Earth's atmosphere. Water concentration varies but averages around 0.25% of the atmosphere by mass. Carbon dioxide and all of the other elements and compounds are trace gases. Trace gases include the greenhouse gases carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide, and ozone. Except for argon, other noble gases are trace elements (these include neon, helium, krypton, and xenon). Industrial pollutants include chlorine and its compounds, fluorine and its compounds, elemental mercury vapor, sulfur dioxide, and hydrogen sulfide. Other components of Earth's atmosphere include spores, pollen, volcanic ash, and salt from sea spray." Although the CRC table does not list water vapor (H2O), air can contain as much as 5% water vapor, more commonly ranging from 1-3%. The 1-5% range places water vapor as the third most common gas (which alters the other percentages accordingly). Water content varies according to air temperature. Dry air is denser than humid air. However, sometimes humid air contains actual water droplets, which can make it more dense than humid air that only contains water vapor. The homosphere(where you live) is the portion of the atmosphere with a fairly uniform composition due to atmospheric turbulence. In contrast, the heterosphere is the part of the atmosphere where chemical composition varies mainly according to altitude. The lower portion of the heterosphere contains oxygen and nitrogen, but these heavier elements do not occur higher up. The upper heterosphere consists almost entirely of hydrogen, cool. 78%nitrogen as N2, a far too stable bond to be used by organisms. 20%oxygen 0.04%co2 0.00005% hydrogen When lightning strikes, it tears apart the bond in airborne nitrogen molecules. Those free nitrogen atoms N2 nitrites then have the chance to combine with oxygen molecules to form a compound called nitrates N3. Once formed, the nitrates are carried down to the ground becoming usable by organisms. Will it react with the oxygen in the air spontaneously, the answer is no. The mixture is chemically stable indefinitely. A mixture with air near the release point can be ignited, but if this does not happen then when its concentration gets below 4% it will be unable to carry a flame. Taking a small detour into chemistry here, a key concept to understanding the health impact of nitrogen-based compounds is knowing the difference between nitrates and nitrites. What Are Nitrates and Nitrites? A nitrite (NO2) is a nitrogen atom bonded to only two nitrogen atoms. Very strong bond A nitrate (NO3) is a nitrogen atom bonded to three oxygen atoms. Weaker bond The optimal pH for nitrate (NO3-) depends on the process and the type of bacteria involved. Nitrification The optimal pH for nitrification is between 7.5 and 8.6 Nitrification is the process of oxidizing ammonia to nitrate and nitrite Nitrosomonas has an optimal pH between 7.0 and 8.0 Nitrobacter has an optimal pH between 7.5 and 8.0 Nitrification ceases at pH

Welcome to the Jungle 😁😎 Girls are enormous , i literally lollipopped them 😅 , later in the flowering i will also make a great defoil of the tops to prevent very serious mold that already attacked my autos ,

Just water

She finally puts on some decent weight, i keep feeding strong for another week

So at the start of week 3 I began to LST CM#3 to just experiment basically and topped CM#2 I believe. Again, just to experiment. This is my first grow and I was stunned with the reactions to both! The new growth after topping was about 1/4” in about 12hrs.. Crazy to me and the lst is proving to expose these bud sites and encourage amazing growth QUICK!! I’ll continue to train daily. One of the videos show the topped CM just yesterday. In 4 days, it’s grown soo much! Also, a video mentions the gender reveal but since then, all 4 have officially revealed themselves as female at the 22 day mark.

Day 85 since seed touched soil. Trim jail !!! 2.40 cm of hanging buds !!! Happy Growing !!!

9L Pot was harvest 6 days before 12L pot with 66g dry bud plus 3.1g bubble hash. Total 69g 12L Pot was left for 6 more days and the harvest weight was 123g plus 7.3g bubble hash. Total 130g The buds is rock hard and cover in crystals. The smoke is balanced great hybrid.

Last day of week 5 today. Got a great start to some frosty tops. Seeing some.purple leaves coming in. My wife's shower music played a key roll in this video. These 2 Minnesota strains from Mad Shark Genetix , Taste of Minnesota on left, Blueberry Winter on the right, are doing very well and I have enjoyed growing these 2. 4 more weeks ish to go. Added a P boost and Recharge to this weeks feeding. Let's put on some weight baby!!! NFSOT

The Hobbit Hole Outdoor Grow 2026 Woche 4 – Der Sommer ist angekommen… und die Natur zeigt ihre Zähne. Diese Woche fühlte sich an wie der eigentliche Beginn des Hobbit Hole. Nach den regnerischen und kühlen Tagen der vergangenen Wochen zeigte sich endlich der Sommer. Drei Tage Sonne am Stück reichten aus, um den kleinen Autos einen sichtbaren Wachstumsschub zu verpassen. Fast so, als hätten sie nur darauf gewartet, endlich loslegen zu dürfen. Besonders auffällig war die Entwicklung der Blätter. Alle vier Pflanzen bildeten inzwischen ihre ersten fünffingrigen Blätter – für mich immer einer der schönsten Momente im frühen Wachstum. Ab diesem Punkt wirken sie nicht mehr wie kleine Sämlinge, sondern wie richtige Cannabispflanzen. Natürlich blieb das Hobbit Hole auch diese Woche nicht völlig verschont. Wie gewohnt bekamen alle Pflanzen vorsorglich eine Behandlung mit Neem, um Schädlingen möglichst früh den Appetit zu verderben. Die Kupferringe verrichteten weiterhin zuverlässig ihren Dienst – zumindest dachte ich das. Dann kam der Rückschlag. Die Guava Runtz, die bis dahin sogar zu den stärksten Pflanzen gehörte, wurde komplett von einer Schnecke erwischt. Vermutlich nutzte sie genau die Stelle aus, an der ein Wühltier zuvor den Kupferschutz beschädigt hatte. Der Stängel wurde einfach durchgeknabbert und der Rest lag dann daneben😓 Genau solche Momente gehören leider zu einem echten Outdoor-Grow dazu. Ärgerlich? Absolut. Aber genau deshalb dokumentiere ich auch solche Rückschläge. Nicht jeder Grow verläuft perfekt, und die Natur schreibt ihre eigenen Regeln. Als direkte Konsequenz bekam die Cinderella sofort einen zweiten Kupferring als zusätzliche Absicherung. Lieber einmal zu vorsichtig als eine weitere Pflanze zu verlieren. Der kleine Zwischenfall hat gleichzeitig das Feld neu sortiert. Die Gelato übernimmt inzwischen die Führung und entwickelt sich aktuell am kräftigsten. Direkt dahinter folgt die Cinderella, die weiterhin ihren Ruf als schnelle und vitale Sorte bestätigt. Auch die Purple Punch hat sich nach ihrem missglückten Start erstaunlich gut erholt und holt langsam auf. Mit jeder Woche wird deutlicher, dass die eigentliche Arbeit unter der Erde längst erledigt wurde. Die Wurzeln scheinen sich inzwischen fest im Boden etabliert zu haben und das oberirdische Wachstum zieht nun sichtbar nach. Outdoor bedeutet eben nicht, jede Situation kontrollieren zu können. Man arbeitet mit dem Wetter, mit Insekten, mit Schnecken, mit Tieren und manchmal auch gegen sie. Genau das macht dieses Projekt für mich so spannend. Drei Hobbits stehen noch im Hobbit Hole. Und jetzt beginnt der eigentliche Kampf.

So after week separated the clones. Have mommy in the hydro setup and mommy-x in a bdrm window. Started spraying mommy-x with colateral silver 30 ppm about a week ago and now is in flower. Continue to spray for another week and hopefully see some pollen sacs.. Don't care about pH , nuit's, or method of growing. All I'm worried about is getting mommy-x to make x-pollen and pollenate the other clone. Side note: Funny everyone worries if have a hermi, & I'm deliberately making one.. lol

LAST 2 GROWS OF SAME STRAIN PLANTS GREW UP TO 3 FT USING LOW POWERED LIGHT. THIS NEW LIGHT IS UNBRANDED, WEIRD AND THE EBAY SELLER SOUNDS LIKE HES JUST DROP SHIPPING THEM AS THEY DONT SELL THE DAISY CHAIN BUT THIS THING LOOKS TO BE DOING A WAY BETTER THAN EXPECTED JOB AS LONG AS YOU GROW 2 PLANTS ONLY AND IN 3 GALLON POTS MAX. IM USING FOX FARM BIG BLOOM. I CAREFULLY STICK MY FINGER IN DIRT ABOUT AN INCH OR 2 TO DETERMINE IF NEEDS WATER. 4 CUPS OF WATER FROM MY WELL AND ABOUT EVERY 2 WEEKS I SPLASH AN EMERIL LEGASSI BAM OF BIG BLOOM. IM PROBABLY USING WAY MORE FERTILIZER THAN I SHOULD BUT IT LOOKS GOOD SO IM GOING WITH IT. BASICALLY JUST ENOUGH TO COVER THE BOTTOM OF A 4 CUP MEASURING CUP. THE THING I DIDNT REALIZE ABOUT BIG BLOOM FOR THE LAST 3 YEARS UP UNTIL ABOUT A WEEK AGO IS, YOU HAVE TO SHAKE UP THE FREAKING BOTTLE BEFORE YOU USE IT. I JUST CHECKED IT, IT SAYS SHAKE WELL. SO IM SHAKING THE BOTTLE NOW AND IM PRETTY PROUD ABOUT THE WHOLE FUCKING THING. I HAVE WATCHED HOURS OF VIDEOS AND READ ARTICLES AND ALOT OF PEOPLE ARE DOING DIFFERENT THINGS AND I CANT DO THEM ALL BUT ORDERED CHEAP PH METER FOR SOIL AND WATER SO I CAN FILL IN THE BLANK AND MAYBE FIND OUT ANOTHER PIECE OF THE PUZZLE. JUST AM A LITTLE AFRAID TO TRY ANY NEW TRICKS AS IT SEEMS TO BE GOING OK. THE REASON IM ONLY GROWING CRITICAL PURPLE? ITS LEGAL WHERE I LIVE BUT THEY DONT SELL SHIT LIKE THIS STUFF. YOU HAVE TO HONESTLY HAVE WHATEVER SUPPLIES YOU MAY NEED FOR A COUPLE HOURS CLOSE BY AS ITS A LITTLE TRIPPY. NO MATTER HOW BIG THE BUDS END UP, SMOKING THE BEST SHIT OF YOUR LIFE AND KNOWING YOU GREW IT YOURSELF IS AN OUT OF BODY LEVEL EXPERIENCE. I RECOMMEND IT HIGHLY. NO PUN INTENDED.

Manifold week 4 update. Morning all, Okay lets get the bad stuff out of the way. I think I'm having issues with my soil PH. My Northen Lights x Big Bid Auto has turned a shade of bright green but our girl Blu has some odd colouring in leaves so think the PH of little Blu may be out of wack as well. I've got a new PH meter coming today so I should be able to get a better picture of the problem. I'm hoping it's a minor issue and can be resolved with some neutral watering. Alright on to the manifold. We're up to three nodes :) three more to go. I'm following Nebula Haze's manifold technique so I will need 6 nodes before I top our girl back to the third. So far I don't see any signs of stretching and shes enjoying the new Mars Hydro light. Shes in the tent with her sisters now so loneliness isn't a problem anymore. This week we're going to give a little extra water to flush the soil and start monitoring PH and TDS more closely with my new meters. Still a long way to go. Happy Growing yall.