This week was mostly about maintenance, balancing the canopy, and keeping the rhythm steady. The lighter green pheno keeps drinking well and is building buds consistently. Growth in biomass seems to have slowed, which is fine — she’s clearly channeling her energy into flower production now. No new leaf mass, but steady bud development. The darker green pheno, on the other hand, required real work this week. She had become very dense and bushy, so I carefully defoliated her, opening the canopy and removing shaded bud sites that would never reach proper light. I was mindful not to overdo it, giving her just enough space and air without stressing her further. The result is a much more open structure with better airflow and a cleaner look. The PPFD increase to 1000–1050 µmol/m²/s from the week before shows no negative effects — both plants are handling the light intensity well. They’re responding steady and healthy, which gives me confidence to keep them at this level. Overall, the tent is vibing steady right now. The darker pheno got a fresh haircut and is breathing again, while the lighter one keeps cruising, stacking buds even if she’s not pumping out more leaves. Light levels are up, the girls are chill, and I’m just letting the ride flow. It feels like the darker pheno might even catch up and outshine her bright sister. For now, I’m keeping my hands off as much as possible, letting them finish strong so I can roll into the next project. 🚀

Así comenzamos la 6° semana desde el cambio 12/1

Fastbuds Blue Dream'Matic at 9 weeks. While initially I thought I had a toxicity, she was beginning to Autumn. I was never able to get her to 20ml bloom because I held off because of the perceived problem. She is still swelling daily. Her Trichromes have begun to Amber so she will be getting pH water for a week then just tapwater before harvest. At this point she will come down at 76 days which is mind-blowing to me. She has a citrusy smell with a strong skunky(?) undertone. I am really excited at this point, and can't wait to share harvest photos. Thanks for following along!

Just watching them grow :) nothing special to add. I was considering flushing one plant this week, as I mentioned in my last post, but to be frank I didn't consider the actual flowering time and just wanted everything to be as fast as possible, which is not a good thing on my part. Now I'll feed them 1 or maybe 2 weeks longer (depending on the plant, as I'm trying to give them at least 5-6 weeks of flower (the recommended time for flower for this strain from what I can gather). I would love to hear your opinions on this. Thanks for stopping by and happy growing 🌿😁

Plantitas en su semana 12. Crecen y crecen espero dejarlas entre 13 y 14 semanas.

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Off and running with some flowers starting to show up and swell. Had some nutrient deficiencies I had to address but looks like all is dialed in now. Started using Fish Shit and some Grow Big to help with deficiencies and this seems to have helped, but I will continue to monitor and update. 🌱🤙

Zu Beginn der Woche wird die Düngung schon einmal auf Blüte umgestellt. In ein paar Tagen wird das Zelt gewechselt und die Blüte eingeleitet. Vorher versuche ich noch die Höhe der Triebe anzugleichen.

Hi all. Welcome to this run withbthe Viparspectra XS1500 which i was kindly sent to try by their helpful rep Valerie. As I have a fairly good space to use for my main grow , it seemed an ideal time to explore a few options while I wait for space to appear following upcoming harvests. The opportunity hit at a good time and has now driven the future play time. lol The light is a full spectrum 150W( at the socket) , Dimmable and very well made unit. As summer is here now , my concerns of more heat being an issue have stopped me from adding my other light so the smaller 2ftx2ft area covered by the XS1500 is a good option , The heatsink is built into the case design with a finned top to dissipate the heat so no noisy fans. Switching it on to full power was a nice surprise as the footprint was way wider than I had expected and the actual coverage is even better for my Nursery to harvest plan.... I am growing autos perpetually at present and have been able to throughput the plants with just 2 lights and using the overlaps at the edges to bring seedlings along to veg/flowering, as harvesting is finishing. The timing had been working well but the plants were getting smaller towards the last runs . I gave it some thought and Rh % came to mind. With the perpetual runs not having a higher rh in their veg periods due to other plants needing a lower Rh% in flower , the vapour pressure deficit (vpd) was not within veg periods healthier range. This current run has exploded and filled my normal space very quickly which in turn means I cannot use the same principle as the last perpetual run of bringing the next ones along ready for the exchanges. The XS1500 takes care of this issue with it being perfect for an initial nursery light that is easily covering all the new seedlings but is also able to cover my experimental "5 plant 1 Pot" attempt. I have placed 5 of my own autob seeds from a previous seeding in a single 60 L pot and intend to strip them to their 4th nodes and only allow 2 mains per plant to develop and flower. Inam hoping to have 10 mains growing in it that will be under the xs1500 solely as the other plants outgrow the lights footprint and space they are in. They will go into the main grow space once able so i can really see how well this new light can flower with the 10 mains to fill the space. Until that point , I will diary as we go and see what we can achieve.

Just watered with water this week. Sometimes I add some Bio-Bizz products but rarely. The plants need trimmed. I am going to wait until next week which will be 21 days from 12/12 to give them a nice trim to open them up for more light and clear the lower growth. Everything is perfect temperature and humidity, light, Co2, air circulation... All on point. 👌

Ya estamos a medio camino del proceso, las plantas se ven sanas y con una leve ventaja de la Red Strawberry Banana #2, la cual muestra una floración mas adelantada que la #1 como muestran los videos. Se nota un tono purpura mas oscuro en la R.S.Banana #2 y un tono mas claro en la R.S.Banana #1, la cual muestra un tallo de gran proporción quizás por un leve exceso de Nitrógeno.

Great strain to grow. Have done outdoors a few times so had an idea that it would take well to SCROG but wow really even canopy and all the buds are nice and solid. Trimming was a sticky operation, so so much resin and red hairs. Looking forward to smoking it! Really really happy with the yield

Little battle between Topicanna Poisen from @sweetseeds vs Chocolate Skunk from @00Seeds (just for fun) TP = Tropicana Poison Day 66 and the second Tropicana is ready and so are the chocolates, but getting closer and closer, 😆🤩🔥💨 CS = Chocolate Skunk Light Lumatek Zeus 465W compact pro at 50% All i grow is medecine for myself, nothing to sell, dont even ask !!! Stay safe and do it with love for the love ❤️ 🙏 💚Growers Love to you all 💚

she grows. good and healthy ... let's hope she does not stay small ... and show all the potential ... the light is no longer as strong as summer .....

my girl got bad water with bad ph for a while :( 2 ph meters broke, but now the problem has been solved, she got good water with calmag, the girl started to look better little by little :) good luck to you

Day 37 We started with nutes today Then all day long outdoors From 6AM to 6PM Plus CFL afterwards They rest for 3 hours and then CFL again Btw accidentally snapped one part of one big leave but that okay Since we don't do defoliation on her We guessing it's okay she will recover soon Day 38 Since she's such a queen we wanted to upload a video showing how she starts flowering for the record, thanks a lot You can Always follow me at Instagram @cannagrowersiriuz Also don't forget to add your comment below, it is important to us! We want to learn, any tips, suggestion, more than welcome my friends Happy Growing Day 39 Some mins before installing ScroG Day 40 Wonderful, she's out of there already so huge, full of buds Day 41 she's actually doing great full of buds but those 2 first leaves are a little bit sad looking weird plus those black dots idk and it's turning yellow in between I decided to remove it and well, I'm hoping she's doing well what else I could think of guys any help or concerns? At the end of the day, she's overall healthy and strong Day 42 Time to feed the babies, so we added 900PPM (300ml) floranova grow Followed by 1590ppm (300ml) flora nova bloom to make sure she's got all nutrients balanced well, also added 400ml of plain water after that so they could get a nice run off. I think they're happy and we gonna check on them in a couple days to see how they go, Ph is around 6.2 which is great Temp outdoors from 7-@ 1pm around 25C to 36C Then back indoors Temp is 28C and drop to 22 at night and dawn so they're good and comfortable Keeping humidity lvls around 40/65% top Nice AC and Fan for air circulation Thank you all for your support

Purtroppo la auto elephant mi ha abbandonato.. Peccato! Metterò subito un altro seme a germogliare anche se già sono passate 2 settimane e mezzo, non fa niente, sono fiducioso!

It was a rough go for me becuase of the heat out here and i made some mistakes. I shop of taken the light controll and dimmer box out of my tent instead of leaving ontop of the light. The tent got way too hot during the days. I had a air cooler but that only brought down the temp by 10 to 15 degrees. The pine apple chunk was a fighter and stayed strong and ive got some decent nuggs out of it all! Tell next time fam

So frosty wow very nice looking plant so far very dark green and smells very sweet