Final Week – Late Flower The final week was essentially a clean finish to the run. The buds swelled further, becoming dense and well structured. Despite the ongoing mildew issue, the situation remained controlled and never spiraled out of hand. Lowering nighttime humidity below 50 % clearly helped slow down further spread. The focus was on maintaining stable conditions and consistently removing affected leaves. Overall, the positives clearly outweigh the negatives: strong plants, solid bud development, and very relaxed handling thanks to Biotabs and the automatic irrigation system. Now it’s simply about finishing strong and harvesting.

Now tent is here ! plants are exploding:) little one starts to catch up ! Trust in the process👍🏽

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"Hi, I received my pH meter this week, so from week 6 onwards, I'm aiming for a pH value of 6.0 - 6.5. This week, I noticed that the plant in the small pot received too much fertilizer. The other two 7.5-liter fabric pots also received double the recommended amount according to the feeding schedule, but they don't show any signs of over-fertilization."

more next week.

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.

I added my old light to the setup for more Watts, a total of ~230 Watt is soaking that lady in photon

Plant A (left side) started pushing through the medium first after 48 hours. Plant B germinated successfully at 96hrs but due to cold climate and moisture in the seed the seed got too cold and turned to mush. At 96hrs Plant A had reached 1.25" and had started to spread the first set of leaves. It is now approximately 2" tall and the first fan leaves are about 1/3" long. Growth is steady and effortless for this girl. So far the self watering set up, grow light, and medium have been treating plant A great. After 60hrs she became fully exposed. Plant B germinated as stated before and died, Plant C was planted 5 days into the germination week of Plant A. No pre-soak, just dry seeds dropped directly into the medium. Miracle Grow myth has so far been proven wrong (performance organics, not regular potting soil). In addition to the set up, I found a water bottle diffuser I have on a 6hr rotation (6 on and 6 off) that I found for $9USD at a grocery outlet. Humidity now steady at 31% on the gauge and about 65% Relative Humidity. Temps sit steady around 68-71°F. Shooting for 360g or 180g from each plant utilizing LST. We are seeing if organic miracle grow has enough nutes for an autoflower, with 3 months of nutrients as stated from the bag it should end up timing out perfectly for harvest time with no flushing needed as nutrients will already be used up.

Ecco i mutanti!!! Finalmente ci siamo abbiamo tagliato la pianta mutante!! Bellissima esperienza di coltivazione la bimba ha risposto bene ed una volta entrata in fioritura è stato un piacere portare a termine il cultivo!! Grazie a tutti per il supporto!!! Grazie a @00Seeds per la collaborazione ne vedremo delle belle!!! ❤️🔥💚

GERMINACIÓN Y PRMERA SEMANA DE VIDA, SOLO REGAMOS CON AGUA A PH 6.0

1 G.C. is with some deficiency, rust on some leaves.. Lights at 100% now.

Training has been continued. She is developing very nicely. As of today she has been switched to 12/12, as the net starts to get busy and anticipating another stretch I thought it would be time.

May4: nice spring day so plants were outside in the afternoon. Some direct sun but also protected in small greenhouse. Light watering with some nutrients. I’m using Monster Maxx this year. I used a free sample of it last year making compost teas and it seemed to work great. Early to use any nutes but I think it is okay. This stuff has regular N fertilizer (nitrate, urea, and ammonia) but also two bacteria strains that have been shown to work. I was looking at last year’s roots today and they are the densest and most intricate I’ve seen, so I think this stuff works as advertised. Will still use compost teas later this season but for now this should do fine. Prepped most of the soil. Cannabis gets the Grade A+ soil, and tomatoes and peppers get last years cannabis soil and some fresh compost. May 9: weather is great so decided to transplant into the final container. Culled second seedling that was slower and had asymmetrical leaves. May 10: still misting leaves to provide moisture. So far so good.

Very strong genetics on this one, I would definitely grow it again for those dense buds fully covered in trichomes. Thanks to the FastBuds team for the seeds!

start of week 2 veg, i put an aquarium heater in my res to keep the temp 21 celcius also added an extra airpump in the res with the waterpump roots are already in the water i used CFL so far i might hang my led above them now

So langsam wachsen sie aus ihrem Töpfchen raus, wird also bald Zeit für den Umzug ins neue, große Haus... Das Blattwerk ist von unten leider etwas angeschlagen, alles oberhalb und was neu wächst, sieht aber super aus.

The stretch has definitely begun. No issues whatsoever. I turned the lights up to 250W and bumped the PPM to 950. Thinking about adding another LED to tent - these things are going to be out of control! The GSC in the 64L res is almost exactly on the same schedule as the 1L, which is 5 days older. the 1L is obviously in the lead in terms of size, but the 64L isn't far behind. I honestly think they'll both end up being almost identical...

Sie entwickelt sich toll noch 4-5 Wochen bis zur Ernte, Laut Züchter. Das Wetter ist mittlerweile unglaublich gut, Wenn ich in Urlaub fahre muss ich sehen wie ich den 12h Lichtrythmus aufrecht erhalte. Zur Bewässerung habe ich mit Blumat bestellt. Mitte der Woche sind die Trichome zwar schon schön entwickelt, aber von Bernstein sehe ich noch nichts...

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 30/01/2020 - One more week to go ! Trichomes still transparent. 01/02/2020 - Gave her 1,5l RO water