2018-07-17 Start of week 16 of veg. The girls is doing awesome and growing like crazy. I have topped them hard from the beginning and i will do a final topping this week. I will start flower as soon as i get my 4 x HLG 260W QUANTUM BOARD KIT V.2 that i have ordered.

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Done with drying, I cut her bud sites and placed them into a mason jar. I bought the boveda packs that are 62% RH. Now time to sit and wait 2-3 weeks and see what the finished product is like. Again everyone thank you for watching the grow up! 🙌🏾🔥🌱 I do have another diary with 5 auto berry’s, if anyone would like to continue watching the grow up. 🙌🏾🔥🌱 I have a lot more confidence in the autos just because this grow was my first time grow. Now I know the basics and everything else on what to do, so better and bigger buds on my next grow. ✊🏾😎

Everything looks great to me except leafs look a little less green then first week. I will be fine tuning the nutrition for better NPK ratios, focusing on Nitrogen and Potassium more along with micronutrients. I hope I don't screw something up, wish me luck. D9. Noticed possible slight nutrition burning from very bottom leaf. After some research, now i believe it's Nitrogen deficiency. D10. Bottom leaves appear to be yellowing less. Will keep eye on it. Maybe leaf necrosis. D.12 10 minutes before light out. Add nutrition and topping. My thinking is that healing is better during off cycle. D.13 New growth, however lower leaves look like there is a little magnesium deficiency. Will be adjusting nutrition next feeding.

Week 5 flowering (a week is 5 days) I lowered the longer branches trying to give as more light as possible to the plants, correct some top branches direction and defoliate a little bit. Both plants keep developing some beautiful flowers with beautiful hairs and trichomes on buds and leaves. This week I started using Overdrive in my feeding blend. Advanced Nutrients for coco professional program (I calculated EC of every single nutrient and made a custom dosage program for every week according to a more realistic EC value - check nutrients in my diary). Plants are doing well, leaves are beautifully green without signs of nutrients burns, excess or deficiencies. They are watered every day in the morning with fertilized water. My daily routine is to correct the training of the branches, removing unwanted popcorn/bottom growth and removing leaves that covers buds and leaves that don’t perform well (i.e.: leaves at the bottom that will not take light). 🌱

Frozen Black Cherry is still taking her time… but that’s totally fine! ⏳🍒 The buds are looking absolutely gorgeous – and the smell? Completely different from the RDWC run. It's wild how much the medium can change the terpene profile! 🔥🌿 The bud structure is still dense and consistent, but no color change yet – likely because I kept the temps quite warm these past days and nights 🌡️🌙 Now that the others are almost ready for harvest, I’ll begin slowly dropping the temperature to bring out those beautiful colors across the garden ❄️💜 I’ll give Frozen Cherry all the time she needs – I want all trichomes to turn nice and milky, with a touch of amber for that perfect high 🔬✨ Patience pays off! Don’t forget to follow for updates and final results! 🚀 --- Die Frozen Black Cherry lässt sich noch ein bisschen Zeit… aber das ist völlig in Ordnung! ⏳🍒 Die Buds sehen einfach traumhaft aus – und der Geruch? Komplett anders als beim RDWC-Grow. Kaum zu glauben, wie stark das Medium das Terpenprofil beeinflussen kann! 🔥🌿 Die Budstruktur ist immer noch schön dicht, aber die Farbveränderung lässt bisher auf sich warten – was wohl an den wärmeren Tagen und Nächten liegt, die ich zuletzt gehalten habe 🌡️🌙 Jetzt, wo die anderen fast fertig sind, senke ich langsam die Temperatur, um bei allen nochmal das volle Farbspektrum rauszukitzeln ❄️💜 Frozen Cherry bekommt jetzt einfach die Zeit, die sie braucht – ich will, dass alle Trichome schön milchig sind, mit ein paar bernsteinfarbenen Highlights für die perfekte Wirkung 🔬✨ Geduld zahlt sich aus! Folgt mir, um nichts vom Endspurt zu verpassen! 🚀

Started flush on the taller plant, smaller one is about a week behind from pistil/trichomes Appearance

Looking great in here. Although had a bit of an insect scare but hopefully under control. But the planted are easing into flower nicely and sites available for flower are slowly covering up with pistils. Progress is good. Mammoth p being added to the mix every 3 or 4 days. It’s my first run using mammoth p but I’ve read good things about it. The potg and one of the PMs are currently battling for number one spot in the tent with the gelatos. The Cherry and other PM aren’t far behind😍😍😬 Update..... all of them just racing now, out and up looking super healthy and super happy. They will also get a little more room to grow in the next couple of days but alas upwards can go no more so I’ll give all the girls decision within the next two days also. This stuff if you’re unfamiliar with it, encourages the plant to stop all vegetative growth immediately and simply focus its powers on flower development. I’ve read good things about it but haven’t used it personally before. Decision idea shelved but 1 purple Majik and the POG are growing talllll. I’ve managed to give each plant a little extra space to grow and allowed better light coverage across all plants. A wee bit of bending may be needed but let’s hope not, I do hate breaking these poor girls necks😱😢 The girls responding well to new set up canopy is looking full and healthy the CG in particular is making a great show fast, not to Say that the PM aren’t moving quickly too, they are 😍😍😍. I think once the POTG has decided to quit stretching it’s also really going to fill out. But all in all great. Very happy with everything in there. Current favourite, and the shortest, is the Cherry Garseeya, she just way cool.

How long we thinking getting the first orange on some.plan

Day 43 14/06/24 Friday So I definitely stunted her 🤦‍♂️ Braking that side really did her dirty, but she is starting to recover bush tops and show female sex so it's a good start to the week. Adjusted LST again. Day 44 15/06/24 Saturday Feed today 6.4 Day 47 18/06/24 Tuesday Water today with calmag pH 6.2 She has blown again, beautiful. Tops all re bushed, pre flower commencing. Lighter tops, starting to produce a smell. Day 49 20/06/21 Thursday Feed today pH 6.25 Did it outside, Picture update 🤩 End of week ✌️💚

Week 6! Day 44: 2L (PH6.3) + half-dose 4-1.5-4 + 1ml/L CalMag Today. I learned that with half strength Bloom Feed and a dose of CalMag Pro, the PH of the solution ends up at exactly 6.3 - this means that most of my watering of last grow was too acidic because I often still added PH- Nonetheless, while checking up on the NLA I noticed her symptoms progressing and I did what any self respecting grower would do: remove the evidence. Coincidentally, I've removed most of the damaged leaves to make checking up on her easier and to more easily figure out whether she's improving or deteriorating. Additional thoughts: While inspecting the pictures again, I noticed that perhaps some of the damage might be a pointer towards the phosphorus toxicity theory, caused by the premature PK13-14 feed, and the additional feed of last week. That said, perhaps it's a convenience that the Pokon bloom feed does not contain that much phosphorus relatively - and since it's an organic nutrient it will not immediately raise phosphorus levels even higher. Hence, this week will mostly be focused on monitoring her symptoms, while the buds are steadily thickening up. Day 46: Moist, no water. Her symptoms are progressing, I noticed that some of the leaves have a tighter gradient from green at the stem, to yellow about half way the leaf. What this means? I have no idea, I'd like to think it's a response to the fresh supply of Nitrogen from the bloom feed. However, it's just as likely that this tighter gradient went unnoticed until now. She's got some pretty rough nute burn, so I think the best course of action is to stop feeding her entirely for now. I'm quite certain that, with the PK13-14 and the organic bloom feed, she'll have enough nutrients for the coming period. Buds are thickening up nicely though. Her terpenes are starting to develop and I can see more and more trichomes appearing. Day 48: 2L (6.3PH) Her symptoms progressed even further, I'm not worried though. I removed more leaves from the lower, shaded area. Day 50: Moist, no water She seems to have stabilised, I have added two sets photos of leaves. One set of day 48, one set of the current day: 50. And with that, week 6 comes to a conclusion. Her symptoms indeed have stabilised while her buds have noticeably put on mass. For week 7, I expect to just water and monitor her growth.

This lady has been growing amazing under the tsw2000 from marshydro this plant will be coming down really soon she is really sticky and sweet smelling I give this plant a 5 out of 5 for growing nicely and easily

She grew slow in winter and flowered hard in spring

The buds stay small, should finish in a 2 ish weeks

наконец то почти всех уронил. к сожалению сломал одно колу((

Gone until Saturday so they’re back on the auto watering setup. Franco is leading the pack in terms of pure frost, The Queen leads in color, and the blue and amnesia tie for smell. These are good times haha. Cheers to a nearby harvest

They are doing well this week, the spikes are holding out and the birds have fucked off with these plants. The steady feeding from the pro mix is still holding up and may feed next week with a smaller dosed solution. The video prerequisite for the contest is a bit funny, not a lot happening in them. Just did a fly by this week. Mustard greens are growing better then these fast buds lol. Had a near perfect rainbow the other day and included that in all the diaries. Bring some happiness to the page.

👉The time finally arrived for the harvest, mostly cloudy trichomes with scant few amber, very few white pistols, and the leaves had either faded or were fading. The run-off pH would quickly plummet and the run-off EC would spike. This may be an indicator that the plant is ready but that only would be conjecture on my part. The overall look of the plant to me said it was ready. The aroma was super strong citrusy and intoxicating. THe leaves were fading and there were virtually no white pistols. 👉I harvested bottom to top. I hung each cola on alphabetized clothes pins with gardening wire attached for hanging on the rack. The buds are dense and shaped like pine cones. I trimmed it semi-tight, but left some of the smaller frosty sugar leaves. The buds and sugar leaves are very frosty but it wasn’t as scissor freezing as the Gorrila Glue I grew last year. I measured the post trim wet weight on a self-calibrating digital scale. I checked the accuracy of the scale with a set of scale calibration weights and it was accurate at all weight ranges. I logged each colas trimmed wet weight and hung on the rack. I have a 42” tower fan. For first 12 hours I ran it at its medium setting, then reduced to lowest speed. I rotated the side facing the fan after 24hrs. Then after another 24 hrs I placed them in paper sacks with to top open. I left the buds on the clothes pin hanger and clipped the bag to that. After another 24 hours I closed the tops. Another 24 hrs and I test weighed a couple of colas. I monitored for another couple of days until the weights averaged 20-25% reduced from the initial wet weight. I then cataloged the weight of each cola and placed each into its own jar, most got one of those small cheap hygrometers. These hygrometers have been calibration tested and I know the drift of each. My target humidity is 62%. I would open the jars for brief periods of time during the next couple of days until the humidity stabilized at 62%. Once stable I placed 62% humidity packs in the jars. I took out most of the hygrometers for the next plants cure, but leave some of them with the best buds. The Queen cola was 20g when placed in the jar. That is about 24% remaining weight from trim. 24% is a little on the high side of the humidity target range. The jar the Queen cola is in, is a wide mouth counter jar and I will be toking that bud primarily and it will dry out the fastest. I have compensated the weight I entered on the dry weight spec to reflect about 20g more of humidity loss and another 30 for the stems that are left on the bigger buds. The final weight of the buds going into the jars was 254g (not including the larf at 23gdry). 200g of plump sticky pine cones for the final weight is pretty nice for a 1 gallon pot. 👉I wrote this review at 3 weeks before the 6 week cure mark. In my short experience of being weed rich, its been interesting to take note of how the flower continues to ‘cure’ as time goes on. I have found that 6 weeks isn’t a given for when its ‘cured’. I have observed that as weed ages it changes. I have not noticed much difference with 2-3 week old buds at 62% humidity when compared to 6 weeks from jarring. But I do notice significant difference around 6 months of age. The flavor is enhanced and the buzz is stronger. It maintains this level then 8-12 months it has leveled off and all strains are becoming more ‘couch lock’ inducing. My observations are not scientific by any means. This is just my 8th plant in the 2 years that cannabis became legal for home grow in my area. But I still have each of the plants and rotate which one I consume. 👉I loved growing this plant, and hopefully gained more knowledge. It fox-tailed a bit at the end. I think my frequent fertigation techniques contributed to most of the issues I had. I think I was a little too conservative with nutrient mix and irrigation volume and frequency. I used only 10% expanded clay pebbles in the coco mix as opposed to the standard 30%. This was slightly problematic at first before the roots filled the pot. Fertigation events would cause erosion and caution had to be taken around the seedling. I placed a layer of hyrdoton pebbles across the surface and the issue was solved. Once the pot was filled with roots it took 10+ minutes to give the plant 2L of solution. The pot was packed hard with roots. This may have been a contributing factor to some of the possible nutrient issues I had. I dont think the nutrient issues I saw had much impact on the final outcome. To get 200g from a 1 gallon pot is wonderful.

Started the flush this week. She started fox tailing a lot with excess heat with 100 degree summer days. I am updating my extraction fan after this grow. She grew good under the Spider Farmer SE5000 light, in New Level Hydro buckets. Next update will be harvest. Thank you New Level Hydro, Spider Farmer, and Amsterdam Marijuana Seeds. 🤜🤛🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com SE5000 https://amzn.to/3qFpAML Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au Coupon Code: saveurcash (is stackable in most cases) Www.newlevelhydro.com Www.hygrozyme.com

Been a little busy with transitioning to Cali Baby. Forgive me