Hola a todos!! Esta semana he trasplantado a esta hermosa planta , la he pasado de una maceta de 3litros a una de 10 litros. He regado con un poco de top veg, y el resto solo agua😊. He notado en algunas ramas algunos pelitos blancos, que me hacen tener la ilusión de que es una planta hembra.😊💪🙌

SATIVA DREAM by KANNABIA Week #10 Overall Week #9 Veg This lady doing good this week dealing with the high temperature good so far she's a good looking plant growing strong!! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com SATIVA DREAM

What up Growmies, this one grew hella fast maturing in 9 weeks from seed to harvest fast. Buds is true to their name. This one has some serious resin on the flowers reminding me of some sort of a gelato Gorilla glue cross, but we shall see when it's released! I could be far off lol. I had no problems growing her. She was really easy and happy her whole life. She's a great one for extractions! Thank you grow diaries and thank you fastbuds for the opportunity to show the world my organic gardening skills! I appreciate all the support from the growing community here on grow diaries. Big thanks for my followers!

Today is day 71 for these ladies and they are doing just amazing! Stacking up densely with a Very sweet smell , I still get hints of vanilla ! Not to much longer to go these girls few more weeks an they should be done! Stay tuned for next week ! ✌️

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Ooooooweeeeeee they’re all doing so good even the extras that I threw in flower with out cloning are doing great .. in just 2 more weeks I’ll throw the donor plants into flower

I'm very satisfied. 402 grams of wet buds. That could be over 100 grams dry. I have 4 plants in my 0,64 m² tent, it only had 0,16 m² space for its own. The result will come in about 2 weeks.

Video was taken 2 days ago right before a feed, today they are all praying to the lights and look good.

She is much prettier than she was a week ago :) I remembered that I have my first grow light, which is more compact and it will give me more space, so I changed my light, now the girl's side branches get light too:) I add a lot of video memes, because I really want to win Iphone16 pro ;) and those who don't take risks don't drink champagne:) good luck to everyone.

This was an interesting harvest. Everything was going great and the buds/trichomes were still piling on, when suddenly almost overnight plant "C" shifted to about 20% amber trichomes. So I harvested it, and because the other plant wasn't ready yet I decided to try water curing the first one for 7 days. Then at the end of the 7 days, I figured I'd hack down plant "D" and dry them both on the racks in the tent at the same time before moving into jars. The water curing was a huge success! After the first day, the water was cloudy with a slight green tinge. Second day was about the same. Then the water was just a little cloudy each change, no green tinge. Compare it to the diary I just opened around water re-curing some cannabis I bought from the government store, where the water is diarrhea brown :O On day 7 of my water cure, the water was perfectly clear so I decided to hack down plant "D" and get them both drying on racks in the tent together. While water-curing plant "C", I had its trim sitting in a bowl in the freezer. When I hacked down plant "D", I put its trim in the same bowl. After my typical wet-trimming, I hung up Plant "C"'s water-cured buds on the top rack, plant "D"'s buds on the 2nd rack for an old fashioned cure, and random trim from both plants spread out on the bottom 2 racks. The water-cured buds dried within about 24 hours and went into a jar with a 58% humidipack. The buds are SUPER dense and potent! Nice clean high, doesn't kill my throat. The downside is that the taste is really weak and not that great. But everything has pros and cons. Almost no trichome loss in the bucket during the water curing as well -- I was really worried about that! The other buds dried in about 36 hours and went into a jar with a 58% humidipack, where I burped it many times a day for a week. The smell and flavour are much more potent than the water-cured bud and it's a little harsher on my throat, but otherwise I'm not sure there's a detectable difference. However, you can SEE there's a sharp visual difference between the water-cured buds and the jar-cured :) Of course the jar-cured will mature more with time as well. Once the trim was completely dry, I put it in a bag in the deep freezer and dropped it to about -20. I didn't need to use a grinder this way -- I could just mash it all up in the bag with extreme ease! Sifted it through the kief screen, and pressed down 17 grams of lazy-man's hash! After processing the trim through the kief screen, I decarbed in the oven at 200F for 1 hour (this converts THC-A into THC or something to that effect -- if you don't do this, the edibles won't get you very high). I put the trim into a big mason jar and back into the freezer along with my bottle of Everclear. Once they dropped somewhere down around -20, I poured in the Everclear, put the lid on, and shook as hard as I could, as often as I could, for 5 minutes or so. I noticed that as I shook it around, the contents inside would alternate between solid and liquid which was kinda cool :) Shake it one way and it freezes, shake it the other way and it thaws... or something to that effect, anyway. I was able to use a double-coffee-filter to extract about 2 cups of dragon tincture! I threw everything in the coffee filter out -- next time I'm going to do a better job of it as there's a little pile of trichomes that forms at the bottom of the filter which I could put to use. Once I get that down next harvest, I'll have around 99% efficiency milking every last drop out of my harvests! White chocolate is so yummy, as are candy canes... I wanted to combine the two to make some edibles. Looking around for candy cane crush, I decided to check out Amazon. They had the same candy cane crush I was looking at from popular stores, for only a couple dollars more, so I figured sure why not have it delivered. I was planning to get some white Baker's chocolate, but on checkout of the candy cane crush I got a deal for adding on white chocolate Lindt bars for $1.25 a piece LOL! So I bought 10 of those. When the Amazon package arrived, I slowly boiled down 1/2 cup of my dragon tincture in a pot, then used a double-boiler setup to melt down 4 of the Lindt bars in the same pot. Once it was mixed well with the hash oil, I set it aside to cool for about 3 minutes before stirring in 1/8 cup of candy cane crush (plus I ended up adding maybe like a tablespoon more), pouring into a pan lined with parchment paper, and putting in the freezer for 30 minutes. So now I have a nice big chunk of white chocolate candy cane crunch stuff where a piece the size of my thumb gets me super high for like 8+ hours; 17 grams of lazy-man's hash; and 88 grams of bud :) And still enough dragon tincture left over to make 3 more rounds of edibles -- not sure what I'll make next! From now on I'm going to water cure a large portion of all my buds -- not just the ones I grow myself, but ones I buy from the Gummint too!

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Another week of veg for our Fast Version B from super sativa seeds club. At the beginning of the week we gave some bactrex and orgatrex from biotabs. The plant is evolving good! Nice and green

Day 72 since seed touched soil. All is okeish in garden. AK is stacking well, has damage from slow release nutes and light burn. Nutes always do that shit for few waterings, plus stupid PH damage, which led to weaker plants and light burn.... you do one mistake and all chain of issues comes up ... its hard to grow in limited conditions .... Mars TSL2000 is now on very healthy distance. Works fine. Temps are in good range. Humidity spikes to 70 on watering day, but is in 60-65 during others. Happy Growing !!!

All cut and hanging. I don't weigh wet buds will have pics and weights soon as its all dried pre and post final trim. If I woulda left it a little longer I coulda brought out much more color but even so there are purples and reds and 10 different color greens. Headband might have taken the award for density away from the enemy's dream. The headband and critical purp both had some purple. Can't wait to smoke em all. Happy to get the first filled to capacity run in my room fully set up and anxious to start the next.

This round is going great, I didn't top them the extra time and they have just absolutely loved it. Supercropping has to be the better option. Last round did hit my highest numbers but I feel this is just going to make that feel like amateur hour. These girls are huge and thick, I can't wait to see how some of these Hunts turn out.

Tag 85 (78 tage aus der erde) - alles gut - violette farben erscheinen - reifungsformel - 3000ml wasser (TA FinalPart, TA ProBloom) - Growdiaries bitte TA zur nahrstoffliste hinzufugen. - video Tag 86 (79 tage aus der erde) - sie mag die reifungsformel - blumen wachsen dicht Tag 87 (80 tage aus der erde) - blumen gut - alles gut Tag 88 (81 tage aus der erde) - blumen gut - alles gut Tag 89 (82 tage aus der erde) - reifungsformel - 3000ml wasser (TA FinalPart, TA ProBloom) - blumen gut Tag 90 (83 tage aus der erde) - blumen gut Tag 91 (84 tage aus der erde) - alles gut - blumen gut

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600