Unusual late year warm weather has put a hurting on my grow. I intentionally did RDWC in winter to utilize cool temps for my res and not need a chiller, after having random 78 degree days, I’ve ordered a chiller. The temps are a death sentence in hydro, I was adding ice to the res to battle it, won’t happen again after this chiller is put in. Definitely hurt the Apex plant, which has been a pain the entire grow.. it all started when Apex was a seedling, with its tap root growing up instead of down. She looks sad, If she dies or falls too far behind, I’ll train the other three around to fill in the space. No visible signs of root rot but I’m suspicious after those temps, have treated with Orca, SLF-100, and Hydroguard. Worst case scenario, I’ll dump the system and sanitize as best I can.

Day 56: nutrients like plan Last feeding Pictures are taken on day 56 --------------------------------------------- Nothing to say, she is growing good👍 Happy growing 🕷️🌱

Hello growers and tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 Well! Their time has come, this was their last photo shoot after week 10 of life cycle and right before harvest. We've come to an end of this balcony experiment. Had loads of fun watching these two ladies grow in my balcony. They only received 5 hours of direct sunlight each day. (09h - 14h) So to be honest I wasn't expecting this size and density with such little hours of direct sunlight. This strain is easy to grow and doesn't need much attention. Chopped them on day 73 of life cycle (day 52 of bloom) Both have a nice dense cola, one is thicker while the other smells much more potent. Decent amount of trichomes given the circumstances and blazing heat these past weeks. All in all they look gorgeous, smell great and I'm satisfied with the results. Now to dry and get cured. Then comes the taste testing. I'll update this diary with final weight, photos and all that good stuff as soon as they're done. Stay tuned, stay safe and happy growing! 😃

Day 98 Day 63 Flower 30/05/24 Thursday Finally the time has come!! The fox tails aren't a issue for me as it's Percy smoke, and to be fair, there decent fox tails 😍😂. The plant is huge for a auto. I have wet trimmed, Removed all excess stem. Wet bud weight is 587g Wet trim is 35g I will update dry weight and smoke report 👌 Thank you to everyone who liked, commented and followed 🙌 Love for the grow 💚 Till next time ✌️

We are currently working on the recovery from the initial stem split on plant A. She's almost all the way recovered with only a slight crack still remaining. Hopefully that split and the overwatering won't disrupt or stunt the growth of this lady too much. For the sake of experimenting I pulled off the first set of fan leaves that were stunted and discolored in hopes the energy used by the plant will be directed more towards the new growth. Plant C is looking great and loving the increased Par values from our light as we are getting good vertical growth and the main stem is looking super healthy. As we get through to the end of the week we will start transitioning plant A for LST in the form of tie down. The fan is currently applying pretty good stress to the already week stalk of plant A, but she again is almost 100% closed back up. The whole purpose of the fan is to strengthen the stalk with very light stress. Plant C will see LST beginning in 2 weeks as she is 1 week behind Plant A. Many people ask me about the LL on the guage and I will remind everyone, I live in a high climate desert around the 49th parallel so it's cold and dry. When the tent is closed I usually see rh values near 40% where the normal RH (Relative Humidity) is around 10%. It's just dry here. That said the grow community here and the quality of bud is top shelf as it gets. Rh doesn't necessarily impact the end results. End goal is still 360g harvest out of this tent we will see if we get it.

Small pot has slowed development considerably I believe. Runoff has been in range so it has to be the roots bound up. Hope it fattens up a bit before the trichomes amber out.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Afghan OG Week 14 11L Pot LED: SP250 (245W) for Flow. Stage Canna COCO Mineral Nutrients: 👇 Flawless Finish: 2 ml/L

Today they got a flawless finish for the second time since the last update, the weather should be like this until the end of the month, without rain, that's what I hope for, so we'll see... all in all, the girls are close, it's time to finish this season, I hope for good weather for at least another 10 days and then I can finish this seasom😁

Sorprendido con el último transplante, la 10th consiguió una ramificación brutal, pasaron a 4/5 gal, espero unos días que se estiren y floro rápido antes que se pasen de área 😬

Looking good hopefully all will be showing signs of flowering at the end of this week. I'll update a few more times this week.

Die Ladies haben einen ersten Stretch durchlaufen, davor hab ich noch ein paar Blätter entnommen. Ich Versuche mich sehr in Zurückhaltung und will auch nichts trainieren, ich möchte erstmal an sehen wie die Z-ups in meinem Setup wachsen. Davor hatte ich eine guava Auto von Fastbuds mit relativ wenig Training zu einem top Ergebnis gebracht und um den begrenzten Platz nicht zu überreizen war das mit 3 Pflanzen mal so der Plan 😅 z-up #1 wächst gut, hab die erste nodie entfernt, war nicht stark genug. Wächst bisschen breiter und geht langsam Richtung Vorblüte Z-up #2 wächst super. Hat eine tolle Struktur, zeigt aber bei gleicher Düngemenge leichte überdüngung an den Blattspitzen, wird beim nächsten Mal gießen nur mit Wasser und Nematoden gegoßen (wahrscheinlich alle 3 profilaktisch) ist in der Vorblüte Mandarin Panties, ist ne süße kleine buschige indica, schaut aber zufrieden aus und wird dann wie alle anderen Ladies in der 2ten Blütewoche gelollipopped 🍭 Steht kurz vor der Vorblüte

Het is week 10 Ik dacht dat ik haar te veel drinken had gegeven omdat de bladeren slap hingen en ze aan het vergelen waren, maar dit komt dus door de fungus gnat. Ik kwam steeds meer van die vervelende vliegjes tegen in de tent. Ik heb een laag zand over de bodem gestort zodat die fucking vliegjes er niet meer doorheen kunnen om eitjes te leggen. Dit had ik al weken eerder moeten doen. Dit is de tweede keer dat ik dit heb meegemaakt en beide keren was dit met de lightmix van biobizz, dus deze potgrond ga ik nooit meer gebruiken. Ik heb de vergeelde bladeren weggeknipt. Ik zal gedurende de week nog verse foto's updaten, hopelijk zal ze haar bloemen flink oppompen. 💪🏽

Added a 65w Horticulture Lighting Group Quantum Board, turned my Viparspectra blurple LEDs 90 degrees and raised lights to, currently 18” above canopy. Still looking very green so no nutrients. I have them in the diary at low values so that I don’t need to reenter them every week for each diary when I use them. Added nutrients 400 ppm and nematodes 4/25. Some light defoliation.

Made it threw seedling phase. The soil is a little too hot for the second one but I gave it some Recharge and she has recovered. I should have added 10% perlite but its too late now. Im going to hold off on giving them any nutrients for a while and let them live off the soil for a bit. I will be giving them microbes, micro nutrients and boosters. Very good growth for 7 days imo. I gave each one a 30cfm 120mm fan each. It seems to help temperatures and stimulate growth. Temperatures have been perfect 69-78, its like a nice sunny day in side.