Large 2x4 tent: Pineapple Express far back left corner, white widow front left corner; berry-white middle and purple trainwreck far right. Small 2x3 tent- purple trainwreck on week 7-8 of flower and white widow on week 3-4. Male-separated in a dark non-aerated room All the girls are growing well. Berry white suspected plant is still looking indica. Purple trainwreck is budding well and stretching too. Much more than I’ve seen other PT plants do, I don’t think the nodes are too spaced out though. White widow is starting to frost up. This particular plant is a clone, the mother developed buds on the leaves and the fan leaves were covered in trichomes giving me lots of good trim for edibles. The leaves are already beginning to frost up. The Pineapple Express is a bit out of control, I had to put a second net up to control her. I went ahead and super cropped her as well, I did snap a few branches but she doesn’t appear to be phased by the damage. I selectively pollinated specific branches on each female in the larger tent. The male was removed before the pods opened. I think one pod may have already split but I tried to minimize his natural pollination. He was moved into a different room with no air flow and no light. Pods opened in a few days and I used tips to collect pollen and then dab onto buds. Pollinated branches are marked with a green tie around them. I’m hoping that by spraying the tents with water after pollinating that I didn’t pollinate the entire tent. Here’s to hoping for neat seeds for in the future whenever I am able to grow again and for good bud 👩‍🌾🏼🌱

Finally time to flower

The week starts Monday, Jan-13 in flowering stage. The plant is growing thick and fast, with very short node intervals creating a thick canopy. Carried out substantial defoliation of almost all the big fan leaves and a few little stems that were not likely to make it above the canopy. Avoided defoliating the major cola branches. This encourages the plant not to waste resources on a node which is only going to produce “popcorn” buds. The plants reacted well to the defoliation and were looking good by the end of the light cycle for the day. The net is completely full and this will be the last week of applying any LST as part of the ScrOG setup. Light is maintained at 30cm distance from canopy, with daily fertigation at lights on - watering almost 2.5L per day. Lowered the average RH in the space to 50%. ----prior 4 weeks updates ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The week starts Monday, Jan-06 in flowering stage. The net is filling up nicely with the ScrOG process being enjoyable - just tucking branches nicely under squares once stretched enough. The Indica dominant strain is really shining with incredible dense growth and thick branches that don't bend as easily as it's Sativa neighbour. Light is maintained at 30cm distance from canopy. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The week starts Monday, Dec-30 in vegetative stage - switching the light regime to flowering. Initiated flowering with an extended dark period prior to switching light regime - this practice is supposed to promote a faster initiation of flowering by the plant. Maintain lights off from Dec-31, 10:00 until Jan 1 - 18:45 allowing a 32hr darkness period prior to switching the light regime. Light regime is set for 12.5/11.5 on/off allowing me a better maintenance window for my living situation. Both plants are growing fast and strong, showing their genetic traits. Some shoots are going through the net already. Have started to tuck branches as they grow to fill up any gaps. Did minor defoliation on both plants near their stem base and centres. Some green algae on roots/coco medium on the surface of the pot. Have defoliated some more which hopefully helps with air circulation at the area. Will monitor over the week - may need to decrease watering frequency, although they seem to be keeping up drinking. Lowered the High Humidity setting of the extraction fan to 60% - which effectively keeps it running at least 75% of the time, and removed the humidifier. Will monitor and adjust as necessary lowering the setting to 50% in a few weeks whilst flowering. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The week starts Monday, Dec-23 in vegetative stage. Installed the ScrOG net - Set at 20cm from the base of the plants, being 55cm from ground. The plant is showing great growth, lots of branching and new growth sprouts. A few branches are beginning to come through the net and almost all main branches are now tied down horizontally after the two recent toppings. Applied more LST and will wait for the branches to reach the net and start tucking. The AC Infinity fan is currently only running intermittently with its current settings. This seems to impact the utilisation and effectiveness of the carbon filter in use. The desired outcome is for the fan to be running for longer periods whilst in Auto config. Lowered the High Level Humidity from 70% to 60%, and more importantly, lowered the Max Speed from 4 to 2 with the intent that a lower fan speed will result in longer periods where the extraction fan is operated to remain below threshold targets for the grow space. Plant growth continues to be strong at the end of the week. Big fan leaves near the top are beginning to look a little serrated and dark, similar to the start of this grow. This may be due to the extra CalMag being added which was the issue at the start of the grow. Will keep monitoring and half the CalMag dosage on next feed. Importantly, I have learnt nutrient mixing of the CalMag should be done prior to the Canna Coco A & B. To date I have done the opposite which may explain my earlier issues. Fertigating daily at the start of the light cycle. One more week of vegetative growth before switching to flowering although I may need to switch earlier due to the vigorous growth and considering the stretch yet to come. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My grow setup includes; - Secret Jardin DS120W tent (120cm x 60cm x 180cm) placed inside the bedroom. Passive intake of air is from a closed off section of the room where the central heating boiler sits - the intake is warm air (20 degC.) and fairly dry (40% RH) during the winter months. - Mars Hydro SP250 LED light - extraction fan - AC Infinity Cloudline T6 - ventilation fans - aquarium heater - small oil heater - small dehumidifier - 20L Airpots and 3.5L general pots for seedling stage - Canna Coco substrate and nutrients - pH and EC/TDS meters - Thermo/Hygro meter

I am honestly blown away with how amazing all 3 plants done! I didn’t really have any deficiencies or issues with any of them the entire grow & it really shows in the quality & weight these ladies put off! Bud smells almost like licorice & has a very sweet taste when smoking! If you havnt already make sure to go check out New420Guyseeds, he has extremely fast shipping, great prices and quality genetics! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!🙏🏼✌️🏼🌱

No bug or disease problems. I even took her off veg nutes way too soon and she recovered like a fucking champ. I’m popping two more this week. Unfortunately i didn’t weigh it because Of some very unfortunate circumstances that I was dealing with at the time. I essentially had to vacate my premise within 24 hours. A few days after harvest. Anyways. I ended up smoking the whole thing with my friends and it was straight fire. The terps were crazy also. Super sweet. After curing she had a very sweet smell like bubblegum / grape. This was only my second harvest ever.

Add slightly nutrients. Day Nr 16 doing topping. Nutrient tank with capacity 10L turning little bit in alkaline, at the beginning I added 3ml ph down and reach 6.4 pH, than now it’s inccrise to 6.6 on 5 days time. Same I can telling about TDS. At the beginning it was 350 ppm, but now it’s step up on 400ppm without adding nothing. Day 18 start moving out new branches from places around where was topping. Keep watering with 1.5L with slight nutrients dosage… Day 20 we can see how flower keep moving ahead after topping days ago…

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

Was my first plant, but I'm happy with the result :))))

I like how the buds get bigger and bigger. Its a very special strain, need to grow the banana purple punch more.

SOOO GANG UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!! I have put the Strawberry Pie Auto, Zkittles Auto, and the Gelato Auto On the chopping block, will update those within the next day or so, The Mimosa X Orange Sherbert is on the left (see photo) and the GMP on the Right!!!! They are starting to beginning the calix's and white hairs are forming lets GOOO!!!!!!

Sanlight EVO 3-60 at 80% Day 106: looking good and watered again🌊. Watered with rain water and 1ml/l Powerzyme, 2 ml/l Hesi Boost, 1 ml/l Cal Mag, 1 ml/l Alg a mic, 1 ml/l root Juice, 0.5 ml/l Bloom Complex and 1 ml/l Green Sensation. EC at 1.8 and a pH of 6.4 . Day 108: looking good 🤗 watered with out supplements 👌🏻 Just rain water 👍🏻 Day 109: watered again🌊. Watered with rain water and 1ml/l Powerzyme, 2 ml/l Hesi Boost, 1 ml/l Cal Mag, 1 ml/l Alg a mic, 1 ml/l root Juice, 1.5 ml/l Bloom Complex and 1 ml/l Green Sensation. EC at 1.8 and a pH of 6.4 Day 111: watered with out supplements 👌🏻 Just rain water 👍🏻 Defoliated a little and Lollipoped her to her final Form.🤗

This week I made a special video tour of the grow room, hope you like it. The Euphoria (my best creation) is doing great. Feeling good, sucking huge amounts of water and increasing her buds. Next week I’ll stop with Big Bud and will start giving her some Overdrive. This means we’re almost done here. Can’t wait to try her smoke! 😋 Photos have been taken on day 114 from seed (February 19, 2018), and day 44 of flowering.

🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow & Bio Bloom 🌱GARDEN OF GREEN SEEDS ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ by VIPARSPECTRA (models: P2000 & XS 2000)

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Pour la germination j'utilise la technique du sopalin Pour faire germer vos graines dans du sopalin, vous aurez besoin : Un Tupperware avec couvercle Du Sopalin, ou autre quel papier de cuisine qui soit épais et qui retienne l’eau Un verre d’eau Si c’est l’hiver, vous placerez le Tupperware près d’une Box ou d’un Modem pour donner un peu de chaleur Étapes de la germination: faire germer vos graines de cannabis dans du sopalin La première chose à faire est de tapisser le fond du Tupperware avec du sopalin, 2-3 feuilles suffiront. Si vous ne mettez qu’une feuille, elle captera peu d’eau et pourra sécher, vous mettrez donc plus de feuilles que pas assez. Une fois les feuilles placées, versez l’eau du verre dessus, mais pas trop, juste de quoi imbiber toute la surface couverte par les feuilles. Vous aurez ainsi l’eau suffisante pour faire germer les graines sans avoir besoin d’essorer la feuille de papier. Une fois les feuilles humidifiées, mettez vos graines par-dessus, et recouvrez le tout avec une autre couche de quelques serviettes. Une fois en place, humidifiez cette nouvelle couche. faire germer vos graines de cannabis dans du sopalin Lorsque vous graines seront placées entre les 2 couvertures de feuilles, fermez le Tupperware hermétiquement pour que l’eau reste bien dedans et que l’ensemble ne sèche pas malgré la chaleur. Si vous êtes en hiver lorsque vous mettrez vos graines à germer, ou que les températures sont inférieures à 20°C, vous placerez le Tupperware sur votre Box ou modem jusqu’à germination, mais toujours en évitant le contact avec la lumière. Si vous êtes dans une zone au climat tempéré ou chaud, vous n’aurez qu’à placer le récipient avec les graines à l’ombre dans une armoire ou une caisse de rangement. Toutes les 24h, vous devrez vérifier l’état d’avancement de la germination. Si quelques-unes sont sorties mais pas d’autres, prenez celles qui ont germé pour les planter, laissez les autres dans le Tupperware et vérifier de nouveau le lendemain.

French Macaron hit peak purple and trichs are all ready to roll. Chem Brulee smelling amazing and packing on weight. Pineapple Meatball remainders have now started going DEEP purple. Could end up with a few head stash nugs off of this late harvest.

Finally back to the garden after 4 weeks away. They were really in need of love by the time I got back to take care of the garden. BIG NEWS! Now running a California Lightworks Solarxtreme 500 as my main light. Will add a second SX500 light into the room once I start flower. Hit the LST on the again and just making sure they are getting fed and lots of love. Will have to push back my starting flower by another few weeks. See how the recover

The good weather is back so these babies are back outside!