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@GorkedOut
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Week 10. I am still trying to get the ladies back on track, as my Ph meter was off a bit. I re calibrated and they should be good to go from here on out. The toads are starting to pack on weight and when I open up the tent it smells very tropical. Super frosty christmas tree structure. RH is around 50-52%. Temps around 73-78 F. Lights cranked up to 70-75% (500ish true watts) They're hungry and I'll feed them good.
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Transplantamos a macetas de 11litros. Añadimos mykos de xtremgarden. Estamos utilizando la línea completa de fertilizantes maría green. Mars hydro tsl 2000 300w
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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Day 22: Hi all , hope we are all well. The Gluberry male has been banished now and wont be making another sneak attack ever again !. The remaining Glueberry ( #2) is now able to have her 1st gym session ( no social distancing or masks needed!). She has been bent over from her 4th node( no sniggering at the back !) so that her 5th(main) takes a horizontal path to the pots edges. The other growth below should form up similar to a quadline . Inwill allow it to go vertical when the flowering begins which should create 5 mains to develop into long chunky colas. Being an attempt to find my own best use of autos in this environment I use , is proving to be fun so far. Inhave other strains ( in my diaries here) that are being trained using this and other methods to again , see 1st hand what works for me. The Mimosa Lemon is doing really well too. she had her 1st session a few days ago and is responding perfectly so far. Both of these ladies are looking really healthy and green so far . I have not done a total soak of the medium yet and have been watering just outside of the plants leaf footprint. This is to encourage the rootball to set itself up for the flowering cycle and an important foundation for their overall possible yield. As above ,so below logic. lets see how they progress by the next update. be well and safe. welcome to the age of Aquarius. The feminine cycles turn !.
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Variété parfaite pour les débutants. Les plantes sont très résistantes aux chocs de température et d'humidité. Elles donnent des rendements satisfaisants et un goût agréable. La runtz a une odeur très sucrée, presque comme un gâteau, je n'avais jamais senti une plante avec une odeur pareille, c'est très agréable. Les plants étaient tous petit, 50 centimètres environ, et n'avaient pas beaucoup d'odeur pendant la floraison, c'est parfait si vous voulez être discret. Concernant les effets, on voit bien que c'est une souche 50% sativa 50% indica. Au début les effets sont euphorisants, elle provoque des rires, mais par la suite et donne un bon effet analgésique, parfait pour aller dormir, je n'ai pas trop de flow de pensé avec et c'est très agréable pour se détendre. J'ai obtenu 34g et 45g sachant que j'ai eu pas mal de problèmes.
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Questa settimana i fiori hanno rallentato la loro crescita ma continuano a produrre copiose quantità di tricomi. Guardando altri diaries su questa stessa genetica ho notato che in molti casi tende ad aumentare il volume delle cime nella 8 e 9 settimana
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@Vincent11
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Hi Everybody hope you got a great week. And that you will have even a better one this week. Little disappointed this week. All been great after defoliation cleared all leaves in way off buds. Responded well. Been away for 2 nights and because off that that it's a cupboard Grow I needed to close the door at nigh to keep 22/24degrees at night. But like you understand I was away so night temperature dropped to below 20 degrees in 2 nights and I got a cold Burn on my Gorilla Glue Autoflower. By the looks off things all I can do is give her another week maximum Two. And get her down. Next week will be week 8 that's what the Royal Queen seeds site says for finishing it. 8/10 weeks Sorry to disappoint everyone with that grow. Have a great week.
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Day 41 up-potting not real crazy over root health, seems like I did a little better first run though I really fucked that one up, thinking about trying Dyna-Zyme & RAW Microbes Grow maybe. Run offs read: LSD #1 pH 5.6 PPM 1120 LSD #2 pH 5.7 PPM 1110 LSD #3 pH 5.6 PPM 1190 LSD #4 pH 5.6 PPM 1050 Gelato #1 pH 5.6 PPM 1090 Gelato #2 pH 5.6 PPM 1080 Watered straight with 10ml of KLN per gal solution pH about 6.8-7 Hoping the pH will normalize over time & these will be back on track. Seemed to perk back a bit today.
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Another week of flower, last water with 700ppm. Since im seeing a little bit of burned tips and claw leaves I decided to do the last water with 700ppm with a 20% runoff. Next water will be no mor than 200ppm with Carboload Tasty terpenes as the week finisher and will be using Flawless Finish on the last week
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@parachute
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The buds are fattening and getting covered with trichomes very well, most of them are healthy and flowering at the same stage, orange pistols are already popping out, thinking about harvesting in a week or some.
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The beginning of flower week 5 the girls have bouncing back from the previous defoliation, I add some Marshydro SP250 to the tent the first few day due to hot weather and too much heat the girls leafs curl in so i add some cold mist humidifier and new circulation fans for better air flow to drop some temperature and add more moisture to the air and they seem to love it then i continue more LST to expose more bud side to the light next week i will put down scrog net down and hopefully doing more defoliation as they getting very bushy now, if anyone have any advise or any tip for the next part feel free to drop a comment it would be much appreciate
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@Oldwied
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Day 24 - Topped above the 3rd node - Removed the 1st node - Tried out my new diy foggphonic cloner Day 27 - clone looks not brilliant but it still alive, we will see - LST goes on - watering 1,5 L with 2 millionen sf nematoden Day 30 Topped the lower branches
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@JKent19
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Great week! Explosive growth was the theme, and over the past 3 days they've gained 4 inches. I was inspired by a few growers on here to do more lst this round, we will see if it pays off or not. Finicky is still doing very well, I would say she's outpacing the other plant at this point. Started my bloom nutrients, and began to wean them off the veg nutes. There are plenty of nodes for buds, but a lot of them haven't shot up yet like some of the main stalks. The right plant was looking a little droopy this morning, realized they were probably an inch too close to the light. Hoping to get another week of stretch out of them, but I could see them shifting into bud production mode soon. Excited to see what's coming up over the next few weeks, stay tuned ladies and gentlemen!
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i germinated all of this grow directly on the soil . I'm using a one side broken Lumatek ATS200 100% from early veg to flower . and then im just putting water with ph 6.5 until early bloom .
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@NoLimitQ
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11/02/21 Вытащил все зацепы из почвы чтобы перераспределить ветки. Сделал легкую тренировочку LST. Установил дополнительный свет из COB LED чипа (мультиспектр) на 50 Вт с линзой. Скоро с aliexpress придет второй такой же чип и после этого я уберу ЭСЛ105 Вт. Собрал еще один дополнительный светильник из 2x COB чипа (по 10 Вт каждый) с цветовой температурой 3000К. Завтра повешу в бокс. 12/02/21 Опрыскал из пульвика водой. 13/02/21 Полив водой 1 литр. Оборвал нижние веерные лопухи и перераспределил ветки, т.к. они начали вытягиваться. При тренировках начинаю чувствовать запах от растения - он приятен =) 14/02/21 Установил вентилятор поближе к растению, опрыскал из пульвика водой. 16/02/21 Полив раствором GHE: 1,5 литра воды отстоянной кранухи + MGB (3ml/2ml/3ml)
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🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 Welcome to week 8, my fellow growmies!! 💚 💚 💚 DAY 50 Watered with 2ml bloom + more pk + 4 ml humics, growzyme + 3ml bigfruits+ 2ml calmag + epsom + Living Organics 0.2g/L 💧 DAY 52 Watered with 4 ml humics, growzyme + bigfruits + 2ml calmag 💧 LED 100% DAY 55 Watered with 2ml pk + 4ml bloom + 4 ml humics+growzyme + 3ml bigfruits + 2ml calmag (no pHminus) 💧 Thanks for stopping by, it's a true pleasure to have you as visitors!! 💚 💚 💚 😘 💜 🐘 ______________________________________________________________ About Sour Tangie Dawg cannabis seeds Sour Tangie Dawg is a sativa dominant cross between the famous Tangie and Chemdawg. Expect a combination of sweet & fruity mixed with a gassy, jet-fuel flavour. The amazing mix of citrus, tangerine, pine and gasoline produces uniquely rich, dank buds. The powerful sativa high is strong, uplifting and long lasting, great for creativity and socialising. Chemdawg is the parent of OG Kush, all Diesel strain originate from Chemdawg. The Tangie is originally a Skunk hybrid strain but extremely fruity with the trademark Tangerine flavour. This strain is potent with THC-levels over 20% alongside very generous yields of top quality weed, very suited for hash and rosin producers. If you’re looking for a strain to produce the best tasting concentrates this Sour Tangie Dawg is a proven winner! She easy to grow and the perfect choice for SCROG growing due to her growth speed and stretch. We advise switching to 12/12 light when 75% of the net is filled. For outdoor growers the harvest period is early October. Indoors she’s finished after 9 weeks of flower - fast for a sativa dominant strain. We recommend growing in soil with organic nutrients for the best tasting weed. Get some fantastic genetics here: https://supersativaseedclub.com/ 💜 🐘 ___________________________________________________________________________ SETUP: 80x80x180 cm Zelsius 240W Full Spectrum LED IR UV dimmable DW240H-A6-HS Heatsink color red LED Chips: 512pcs SAMSUNG LM301H + 24pcs Osram 660nm + 8pcs Osram IR 730nm + 8pcs UV 385nm Color mix: 2700K + 4000K 2,8umol/J Driver HLG-240H-C2100B Coverage: veg 5x3ft / flower 4x2ft Product size: 628x205x68mm Green Buzz Nutrients Shouts go out to my sponsors @GreenBuzzNutrients, thanks so much for your support! ❤️ If anyone would like to try their amazing organic products, use code GD42025 for generous 25% discount (for orders of minimum 75€) ✨ https://greenbuzznutrients.com/ Biobizz Lightmix custom exhaust fan 320/270cm³/h Carbon Active Granulate 240cm³/h tab water pH 8 - EC 0,25 with Calmag to 0,5 Advanced Hydroponics pH minus Grow + Bloom to pH 6.2 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜 🍊 🐶 💜
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@Naujas
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well, it's exactly 12 weeks :) and my house is full of lemon aroma :) the girl endured really difficult growth, but she coped with everything perfectly :) who followed the growth, you saw that she grew on the balcony for 10 weeks, and she spent the last 2 in the grow tent :) 500 gr wet weight !!!!:) , before putting it in the ground I expected less than 10 g dry yield :D then this growth turned out super well, if it wasn't for my vacation I would have let it grow for about 2 weeks I think. but everything is still very good, I'll go home, fix it and do a smoke review :).
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Stretching is at a normal pace. Buds are developing nicely.
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Esta cosecha fue muy buena con excelentes resultados de flores muy compactas y demasiado resinosas , la genética en sí es muy resinosa con olor muy característico , con sabores terrosos muy marcados .