This week has been quite eventful in terms of growth and maintenance. The plants have doubled in size, which is a great sign that they are responding well to the current conditions. The increase in light intensity and the regular feeding schedule seem to be paying off, as the plants are now much larger and healthier. I also conducted the first defoliation this week. I’m aiming to use techniques like defoliation only once a week, to give the plants enough time to recover and avoid unnecessary stress. The defoliation was carefully done to improve airflow and light penetration to the lower parts of the plants, ensuring that the energy is focused on the areas that need it most. The plants have shown resilience so far, and I’m optimistic about how they’ll bounce back after this session. I'm continuing to closely monitor all plants, especially after such significant growth, to ensure that they are responding well to the defoliation and training from last week. Looking forward to seeing how they progress over the next week as they recover and continue to grow!

Only video I had from week 7 was showing me mate the plants

It grows well, in principle, nothing more to add. I will add fertilizers later

All pictures were taken on day 43 She is definitely in 1st week of flowering and stretched a lot the last couple of days She grew a massive stem. It is many times thicker than the photoperiodic stems🙀 I gave her 600ml tap water with 1ml/l BioBloom, 1ml/l TopMax, 0.3ml/l BioGrow added end of the week

Всё отлично. Появился слабый запах. Средняя температура 23 градуса

Servus, Started to bring them to their final shoes. Roots look awesome. More pics will follow.. Servus

Welcome, If you are already here and reading this, you do it at your own risk !! 😃😇😎 Another week of flowering, the girl smells so intensely that the carbon filter does not cope with effective filtration. There is a real orange scent in the tent, a blend of fresh oranges and skunk scents. The buds take on size, the resin production is amazing and creates beautiful sparkling crystals on them. There are still 2/3 weeks to go, but these are the most exciting ones. In this week I added cal-mag to fertilizers, it is a preventive measure because I increased the amount of PK 13-14, so cal-mag supplementation will not harm the plant at this stage of flowering. Update: Day 87 I lowered the height of the lamp to 17 cm, I just need to put on my helmet, fasten seat belts and hold tightly to my chair :P Update: Day 88 I had to use wire-mode because the side branches were starting to bend more and more under their weight. It makes me very happy because the harvest will be in 2/3 weeks 🙏 I wish you all a fantastic evening, You Lovely Girls Growers 💪💪💪

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

The Ladies are slowly Fading into autumn leaves. BBP have very heavy Flowers. They got a little Support for the branches. Lemon Orange full of trichomes with heavy Citrus Aroma. BBP smell so intense fruity , almost like a fruit Dessert. Temp 20-25 Celsius RH 55-65 Everything good for now. Just feeding the normal Canna Schedule and watching em mature and ripening Out. 1-3 weeks to to.

Apricot is a leggy little thing , doubled in size the last week . Transplanted her into her forever home and tied her down this week and fully expect her to double in size width and height the coming week , traditionally these autos love getting spread right out . Starting to take shape in the tent now .

Läuft, ich schätze dass der Grow noch mindestens 3-4 Wochen läuft. Wie zu sehen sind die Trichome erst gerade am entwickeln und natürlich noch Glas klar. Die Temperatur überschreitet 22C seltenst, dementsprechend zieht sich dieser grow garantiert in die Länge.

Trop Cherry #8 x BeeJayz hasn’t been topped, I transplanted the girls this week from a 1 gallon pot to a 3 gallon pot. Trop Cherry was in a plastic pot but now in a fabric pot. Plants seem to be growing well.

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Day 84 from seed Each auto is in different flowering weeks So post is sorta confusing as my first diary Sorry! Everything seems to be doing good. Just been feeding water since last update. I will have new lights soon 4800 evo from mars hydro 2024 version planning to harvest the GDP before switching the lights out. Day 87 swapped the light to the mars hydro 4800 evo 2024 model running 40-50 percent 12-20 inch from cannopies adjusting them slowly to new light and much higher pffd than before

Looks like the Gorilla Zkittles is pretty much ready the colours are amazing definitely keeping this pheno. Nothing changed this week apart from a change to water, calmag & canna flush @pH 6.2 I have noticed thee THC glands are brown already you can visibly see them absolutely insane cant wait to smoke it.

They popped up 2nd of January after germination. Biobizz soils mixed just using oxy plus for first couple of weeks as well as silicone

Weeks 1-5 in flower, starting 8/3

Superb variety that I discovered, very tasty with sweet smell cheese and productive. I place it in my favorites, To be redone in a future culture Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/ Very nice and simple grinder that i reccomand : https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/merchandise/hemp-grinder/