420Fastbuds-FBA2507 I'm excited as it's tester time. Germination week is complete. I planted 3 seeds and had all 3 sprout within 48hrs of being in the soil. I do soak them for 48hrs in a glass of water before planting. I can't wait to see what the weeks to come will have in store. Happy Growing

Will be checking trichomes 20 percent amber is awesome for me

9/22 Week 10 update... finally Looks good but going to add more Phos due to some red stems showing upping to 3ml/g These pics caused my husband to do a serious defoliation, 😏 Changed nuets to lower Bloom 10% increase PK by adding Peak need to use it up. 9/23 Vid up 9/24 After looking at things this morning have decided to start moving the FFT9 and FFT11 to flush. Begin slowly cutting Bloom nuets tomorrow for those two strains so we can start flush at week's end. 9/25 Feed is changing as we move them into flush. Lower Bloom A/B to 5/5 raised Koolbloom to 5ml Peak to 5ml 9/26 Like things where they are for now hold here till flush Vid/Pic

Info should be in the video ;)

Def would recommend to chem fans with very limited space!0

They surprised me how fast they reached the finish line. I've been flushing them with only water for a few days now. I'm quite pleased by the results, considering that this is my first time in coco. The trichs are getting 50/50 clear/milky and over, so it's harvest time this following week. There's a purple theme going on and I enjoy watching it :D I'm quite sure it's because of the low temps at night.

This is my first grow. I needed something very stealthy so I'm growing in a 16" x 9" x 36" cabinet. - Simple hydroponic system. Basin filled with about .75 gallon, small air pump and air stone. - LED is 216watts (UFO full spectrum) - Wifi outlets for control and timer on fans and LED. Also have camera so I can always have eyes inside. - Crop King Seeds - Autoflowers - White Widow and Northern Lights. Read that these are good for beginners and smell isn't as strong as others. - Germinated using paper towel method. Soaked 18 hours, after 3 days put taproot down in soaked (spring water) jiffy pellet. Kept dark for 48 hours. - After sprout, began 18/6 light schedule. No nutes for first week. - Per instructions from the cabinet maker, I mixed 1 tsp of Maxigro in 1 gallon of water. After 1 week, I added 1/8 cup of this solution into the basin with .75 gallons of water. (Seems like a very small amount of nutes, but said go slow). -PPMs are stable ~400 since feeding started. -Added 1/2 cO2 pellet during week 3. -pH was high during first week (as high as 8.3) but have been controlling with GH pH down since. Avg 6.1. -Roots look healthy. Changing water in basin once a week. Using syphon to drain. - Started LST. NL has been growing faster, was able to bend an expose to more light. Sorry, no photos for first 2 weeks (just found this site!)

Hello everyone! this week, I had to do defoliation all the same .. on that girl I was not going to touch .. the fact is that there were a lot of leaves .. too many .. it was difficult for the plant to breathe .. in short, I did defolation and also took advantage of the fact that the plant itself made a topping))) and with the help of the LST I took 2 central branches to the sides .. from today I will decrease the light regime gradually .. I hope this will help the plants show their gender as soon as possible ..

ॐ MOBY DICK from BARNEY'S FARM "Bedroom setup" 5th week of vegetation from 27.10. to 2.11.2025. Heavy training continues, foundation of plants is done, a lot of wires included, heavy defoliation and pulling of branches very two days, There is a 30sec video (10min video but accelerated) so ya can see how they like training :) All branches are left for now, let them rest from this week stress, next week is branch selection, one more week of veg and they will be ready for 12/12 They started to show very strong growth, also they started to drink 1.5L every two days. All looking good, nice and healthy, Take care and much love. ॐ

Grow Diaries: Week 9 Veg - Mentha de Croco Mutants Hello, Grow Diaries fam! 🌱✨ Week 9 is here, and while our mutants are small, they’re undoubtedly mighty in beauty and character! Each plant continues to showcase its uniqueness, with details in the leaves that are nothing short of art. As always, patience is the key, and these beauties are teaching me that every step of this journey is worth it. The Flip is Coming! After much thought, I’ve decided to flip the entire room to a 11/13 light cycle. This means it’s time to identify males and let the females show their true potential. Here’s the plan: • Why Flip Now? Despite their smaller size, flipping now allows the plants to reveal their sex while keeping the room’s progress synchronized. This way, I can focus on the keepers and remove the males efficiently. • Revegging the Favorites: By flipping and selecting now, I’ll be able to reveg any standout females later. For those unfamiliar, revegging is a technique where, after flowering, you revert the plant back to a vegetative state. This method preserves genetics you love and allows you to grow clones or expand the line further. 👉 Benefits of Flipping and Revegging: • Speeds up the identification process without needing clones first. • Lets you preserve special traits in the plants. • Adds flexibility in managing space and time. Environment & Nutrition This week, I’ve maintained a steady environment: • Temps: 22°C with about 66% RH. • Nutrients: Continuing with the Aptus Holland lineup—Regulator, Start Booster, and CalMag Boost. The All-in-One Pellets are still providing slow-release nutrition, and the plants seem to love it! Watering from the bottom remains my go-to, helping keep gnats at bay while ensuring even root hydration. The Photographer’s Eye Once again, my Sony A6000 has been in action, capturing the stunning intricacies of these mutants. There’s something magical about zooming in on their delicate details, seeing the interplay of light, and appreciating every curve and serration. Pro tip: The right lens can make all the difference, giving you sharp, breathtaking shots. Shout Outs & Gratitude Big love and thanks to: • Terpyz Mutant Genetics for these incredible seeds! • Aptus Holland for keeping the nutrients dialed in. • Pro Mix Soil for giving the roots a cozy home. • TrolMaster for perfect environmental control. • Future of Grow for the endless inspiration. • Grow Diaries for hosting this amazing community. And, of course, to all the growers, followers, and curious onlookers who make this journey even more special. Your support means the world! 💚 Join the Journey Let’s connect beyond Grow Diaries! Follow me on Instagram and YouTube to catch exclusive updates, behind-the-scenes moments, and more. Together, let’s grow, learn, and inspire! Genetics - Mentha De Croco https://terpyz.eu/products/menta-de-croco-fern-type?_pos=1&_sid=e9237cbcb&_ss=r DogDoctorOfficial Discount Codes @ terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off Nutrition - @aptusholland https://aptus-holland.com/ Led Power @ F.O.G. Future Of Grow https://www.thefuturofgrow.com/en/online-store/BLACK-SERIES-600-p489093171 Controls @ TrolMaster https://www.trolmaster.eu/tent-x As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciloved and i fell honored with you all in my life With true love comes happiness Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. The journey with nature is one of discovery, creativity, and respect. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together! Growers Love To you All 💚

In

Ladies and gentlemen...welcome in Week 3 of Flower 🙌 Omg....The stretching is real.....girls almost tripled in size. Few days ago we went through every plant, removing tones of lower shoots and leafs. Girls recovered straight away, increasing in size. They all look very happy without exemptions and I’m just hoping I will manage to accommodate space they need. We can already see those nice small buds starting to form. Really can’t wait to see them in full beauty 😍 EC 1.9 - 2.0 as aim this week pH 5.8 2 litres every 24h Stay tuned with updates 🙌

A 4 hour planned power outage in my area gave me the excuse to flip the girls. Kept the lights off for a cycle then immediately went 12/12. Although the temperature dropped to a root freezing 58°F, the reservoir didn't have a chance to fluctuate much and I also kept my air pumps running for an extra hour and a half off my computer backup battery! The battle with root rot is basically over. I am taking care to rinse the roots every once and a while. Growth has been amazing! Loving DWC! It also gives me things to do as I lie to pay attention to my plants. Doing a thorough clean with H2O2 every res change. PPM is around 800-900. Drops fast now. Every two days I check PH and correct if necessary. Usually it's been around 6.2-6.3 when I check. I PH it back down to 5.8. I've heard that flowering is a little on the acidic side so I'm planning on dropping my PH to 5.5-5.6. Did a major defoliation after this diary entry. Will do another in three weeks. Stretch has started by the looks of it. Blueberry Headband (2) from Humboldt Seeds. https://www.humboldtseeds.net/en/blueberry-headband/ Lighting https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit DWC Nutients https://generalhydroponics.com/floraseries FloraGro 5ml/gal FloraBloom 10ml/gal FloraMicro 7.5ml/gal Cal Mag 5ml/gal https://generalhydroponics.com/calimagic Epsom salts Brown Slime Root Rot Organic Microbe Tea 5 ml (1 tsp) organic sulphur free molasses 5 ml Alaskan Organic grow fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Alaskan bloom fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Seaweed or kelp fertilizer 2-4 ml Advanced Nutrients Tarantula

Lights are 58 inches from the main source to the top of the pot and the soil surface. If you added up all the lights in the tent, it would be 1100w-1200w total across 14 lights. Using them all at once is far too much for a plant and incredibly difficult to deal with environmentally. The lights are fixed in position; side lights have dimmers, allowing for pinpoint precision of PPF. Fixed at 58 inches, cannot move them closer to increase intensity. Instead, achieve optimal PPF by distributing smaller wattages across a massive, multi-fixture matrix. Triggering specific plant defenses without melting the canopy. What's the point/blah blah wattage? Never really go above 600W at any one time. Lights come on in the east of the tent and set in the west. At sunrise and sunset, the red-to-far-red R:FR light ratio drops because the sun's low angle scatters red light more than far-red light. This shift reduces active Pfr and increases inactive Pr, mimicking Mother Nature herself. Deployed a lighting system featuring extra 660 nm deep-red and extending the spectrum up to 780 nm achieves the full Emerson Enhancement Effect by simultaneously balancing Photosystem II (PSII) and Photosystem I (PSI) to maximize quantum yield. By pairing deep-red photons with far-red photons, you trigger a synergistic biological response where the resulting photosynthetic rate is higher than the sum of both wavelengths used individually. This practice directly leverages the updated extended Photosynthetically Active Radiation (ePAR) framework. The Emerson effect accelerates plant metabolism and heat capture; you must proactively scale up your ambient room temperature, nutrient delivery, and CO₂ supplementation to prevent the light from stalling out your cannabis plant. UVA stays high all day from morning to night, but UVB peaks at solar noon (middle of 18-hour days) when the sun is peak. Morning color starts at 2k-3k; by noon it goes to 5k- 6k and back to 2-3k for sunset, with differing P:FR at light off. The extra-blue light is to assist with photoreactivation of UVB damage. No more yield loss for me. Using extra blue light for photoreactivation is what I do. Blue/UVA light activates photolyase enzymes, which directly repair DNA damage caused by UVB radiation. But what's the point if it's not for yield? Ultraviolet (UV) radiation—specifically UVA (315–400 nm) and UVB (280–315 nm)—acts as a critical environmental signal that programs a plant's photoprotective genes to unlock its true photosynthetic potential. When growers push crops to their absolute photosynthetic maximum via high-intensity light and elevated carbon dioxide, the photosynthetic machinery easily becomes overwhelmed. Emerging photobiology research demonstrates that UV radiation prevents this limiting bottleneck; it triggers specific transcription factors and signalling networks that fortify the plant's cellular defenses, allowing it to process extreme light levels without sustaining structural damage. There are 8 limiting factors of plant growth; when carbon dioxide becomes the 9th limiting factor of plant growth, it shifts the growth curve from exponential to linear. The restriction after that is "photoprotection" against reactive oxygen species (ROS), managed via non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and the xanthophyll cycle, which bridges into precise hydrogen and redox dosing. UV radiation, particularly UVA, and the synthesis of zeaxanthin are critical for the xanthophyll cycle to function. It's not chasing purple strains... One likes to call it chasing the limits of growth, trying to make the linear exponential, just like father mathematics prefers. In order to do that, must control every environmental variable and compound the plant’s metabolic rate. True exponential growth means the rate of increase matches the current mass at every stage, requiring a closed-loop system where light, CO2, and nutrition lock into a synchronized upward curve. First, you must attempt to understand what restricts it. Precise hydrogen and redox dosing. Nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Most won't even understand that; once you do, it changes everything. Constructive interference occurs when two or more overlapping waves meet in phase, meaning their crests and troughs perfectly align. Their amplitudes add together, creating a new, amplified wave with greater intensity than the individual components. Constructive interference is the foundational mechanism that establishes a resonance hierarchy across physical, structural, and acoustic systems. Chromophore spacing is tuned to sub-nanometer precision to match the wavelengths of absorbed light, forcing constructive interference. Light-harvesting proteins form geometric rings and lattices. These shapes act as physical resonators, trapping and focusing the wave energy. This same principle dictates how opera singers shatter glass, how musical instruments resonate, and how bridges withstand structural vibrations. Nature uses the exact same math to harvest a photon as an engineer uses to design a concert hall. When you push high PPFD and elevated CO₂, you create a metabolic bottleneck. The plant cannot process the energy fast enough, leading to electron backup, light-induced damage, and a collapse from exponential growth into a flat, linear rate. UV light acts as the regulatory valve that prevents this collapse. In standard agronomy, Liebig's Law of the Minimum dictates that growth is limited by the scarcest resource. When you maximize water, nutrients, light, temperature, and CO₂, the bottleneck shifts to metabolic processing speed and photoprotection. By controlling the Redox state of the plant using UV, the xanthophyll cycle, and managing ROS, you can prevent the plant from hitting a hard photosynthetic ceiling. Instead of the growth curve flattening out (linear or plateauing due to photoinhibition), the plant continues to compound its metabolic rate efficiently. You are forcing the plant to operate at peak thermodynamic efficiency. By matching the UVB peak with sustained UVA and shifting Kelvin temperatures (2K to 6K), you are damaging the plant just enough to trigger defensive genes, while simultaneously providing the exact light energy needed to repair that damage instantly. UVA radiation and specific blue wavelengths accelerate this enzymatic conversion. Zeaxanthin acts as a structural sponge that absorbs excess excitation energy from chlorophyll and dissipates it safely, preventing ROS formation. Without UV signaling, the xanthophyll cycle cannot keep pace with extreme light, leading to dynamic photoinhibition (yield loss). The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, the active Hawaiian Spirulina in the matrix was cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. Then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen, with a whopping NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Rich in proteins, amino acids, trace minerals, and plant growth-promoting compounds. Zeaxanthin is a vital plant pigment that accumulates under intense light to drive non-photochemical quenching (NPQ), acting via thermal energy dissipation, direct singlet oxygen scavenging, and thylakoid membrane stabilization. The violaxanthin cycle (or xanthophyll cycle) reversibly converts violaxanthin to zeaxanthin via antheraxanthin to protect plants from photooxidation. Understanding this interconversion is vital for optimizing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and pushing photosynthetic limits under high-light stress. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a natural antioxidant that plants produce internally to neutralize harmful reactive oxygen species caused by photosynthesis and high light stress. Acts as a co-factor for enzymes like violaxanthin de-epoxidase in the xanthophyll cycle, which safely dissipates excess light energy. 1g ascorbic acid will neutralize 100% of chlorine in upwards of 30 gallons of tap water. If your local tap water uses chloramines (chlorine bonded with ammonia) instead of free chlorine, you will need roughly 20% to 30% more ascorbic acid to completely break the tougher chemical bond. Molecular hydrogen and hydrogen-rich water act as selective antioxidants that help lower oxidative stress. They neutralize toxic reactive oxygen species like hydroxyl radicals and boost natural antioxidant defense systems in biological and plant systems exposed to high-intensity light or abiotic stress. UVA and UVB act as stress signals that upregulate the plant's secondary metabolism. It forces the plant to build an internal "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and fortify its cellular defenses before the peak solar noon crisis. This keeps the metabolic highway open. In nature, the ambient ratio of UVA to UVB at solar noon sits roughly between 10:1 and 20:1 (depending on latitude and elevation). In a high-PPFD indoor matrix, maintaining a strict ratio—often aiming for around 12:1 to 15:1 UVA to UVB—provides the optimal signaling threshold. Balancing Far-Red (FR) light at "light-off" to manage the phytochrome photo-equilibrium (Pfr to Pr conversion) in tandem with the UV schedule. Omg, the logic. Hydrogen concentration and redox signaling as secondary messengers in this high-intensity loop. Under the intense solar noon matrix, the pH of the thylakoid lumen drops. This acidic environment activates the enzyme Violaxanthin De-Epoxidase (VDE), which converts violaxanthin into the photoprotective zeaxanthin. VDE cannot function in a vacuum; it strictly requires ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as an electron donor to run this conversion. If a plant undergoes heavy light stress and runs out of internal ascorbic acid, the xanthophyll cycle stalls. The plant can no longer engage in Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ), leading to immediate singlet oxygen O2 formation and destruction of the thylakoid membrane. This is "The Ascorbic Acid / Xanthophyll Engine" Using ascorbic acid to neutralize chloramines in your water isn't just protecting your rhizosphere biology it actively prevents the degradation of your nutrient solution's redox potential before it ever touches the roots. When pushing plants to the absolute edge, traditional antioxidants can be a double-edged sword because they blindly neutralize all free radicals. This is a problem because some Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) act as critical signaling molecules telling the plant to grow. Molecular Hydrogen H2 is the Selective Kill-Switch. Molecular hydrogen H2 is a revolutionary tool because it is a selective antioxidant. It ignores beneficial signaling ROS (like mild hydrogen peroxide) and targets only the most destructive, cell-shattering radicals—specifically hydroxyl radicals OH) and peroxynitrite. By dosing hydrogen-rich water or managing hydrogen redox signaling, providing an emergency pressure-release valve for the plant's electron transport chain. It keeps the cellular environment stable enough that the plant never has to downregulate photosynthesis to protect itself. This maintains cellular voltage. To trigger this defensive matrix without stunting the plant, you cannot simply blast UV indiscriminately. You must use UVA as the "scout" and UVB as the "enforcer. High UVA acts via the cryptochrome and phototropin photoreceptors to upregulate the expression of the HY5 transcription factor and prime the VDE enzyme. When the sharp spike of UVB hits at solar noon via the UVR8 receptor, the plant's biochemical "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and its zeaxanthin pools are already pre-staged and waiting. This prevents the temporary stunting or "lag phase" usually associated with sudden UVB exposure." Closing the Loop: Far-Red End-of-Day (EOD) Synergy The final masterstroke is aligning this UV defense with a Far-Red (FR) lights-off routine. The Red-to-Far-Red Drop: At the end of the photoperiod, knocking out the blue/UVA spectrum and leaving a targeted burst of pure Far-Red (730nm) instantly flips the plant’s master switch. It converts active Pfr to inactive Pr in minutes rather than hours. Why this matters for the UV loop: UV radiation and high-intensity lighting keep the plant in a highly alert, photoprotective state that requires massive ATP expenditure to maintain. By forcing an immediate Pfr/Pr) conversion at lights-out, instantly commanding the plant to cease defensive expenditure, lower its metabolic respiration rate, and transition directly into nighttime cellular repair and carbohydrate translocation. You are maximizing the efficiency of its "sleep." every ounce, every last piece. Highly synchronized biological dance, balancing the exact input of electrons with the exact mechanism to dissipate them safely when they overflow. Peace.

Started week four with a top dressing of rabbit guano. Growth is very good in my opinion. The lst has produced lots of new stems❤️Used some wooden skewers to open up the plant to the light.

Very easy plant to harvest, didn't have too much leaves, so very easy to take out fan leaves and prepare to dry.

This was the runt of the bunch from the beginning and started flowering a week before the others. Seemed like in veg it didn't have enough nitrogen (yellow/green leaves) and in flower it had too much causing the bottom new leaves to grow kinda mutated and dark green. Even with those issues she still packed on solid dense buds covered in trichomes. pulled off 253 grams wet after trimming and 57 grams of trim will update with dry weight when ready

11 Sep 2021 Today starts week 2 of the flowering stage and week 10 of life for my lovely Ladies. I did some massive defoliation and pruning the other day and all three of my babies are looking amazing afterwards!! Absolutely beautiful! I have a short video log (I’m not cool enough to call it a vlog), and a few pictures to upload to start this week. I must admit that I really thought I may have overdone the defoliation and pruning, but so far it’s turning out exactly as I had hoped. There are budlets forming at every node, and all three plants are looking healthy and strong. I decided to look at my feed chart and to count backwards from the date that they should be ready for harvest and to arrange their feeding schedule. I made a plan where I can provide a good steady level of nutrients in the proper stage of growth, and schedule time for the flush to be done by the time harvest time arrives. So today I started the Mid-Bloom stage 4 of my Flora-Trio 6 part feeding chart. I’m still giving half the nutrient level until I know there are no issues, then I will adjust to full strength if necessary. At 50% strength each plant was given: CALiMAGic 2ml, FloraMicro 2.4ml, FloraGro 2ml, FloraBloom 4.2ml, Floralicious Plus 1ml, and Liquid KoolBloom 1ml mixed into a gallon of water. The initial pH for all three gallons was 6.3. I wanted to adjust them up, so I added 1.2ml of pH UP to each gallon which adjusted them as follows: C1 - 6.7, and C2/C3 were both adjusted to 6.6. I still don’t have a replacement TDS meter, so only pH was measured in the runoff. Runoff pH was as follows: C1 - 5.9, C2 - 6.1, and C3 - 5.8. The runoff levels of C1 and C3 are still lower than id like, but still manageable. As I mentioned several times above; my plants are looking great, and I plan to keep growing them as they are until this method needs to be adjusted or changed. I’m just letting them grow wild. Granted, I’m trying my best for them to grow the way I want, but I’m not using a support net at all (yet). I say (yet), because once the buds start to bulk up, they may need support to stand upright. If that day comes, I’ll use the net. Time will tell. The temperature in the tent was 82F, and the humidity was 45%. So far my trio is growing beautifully! Enjoy everyone! I am!! 14 Sep 2021 I ended up using only about half of each gallon the other day, so today I gave the rest of each gallon to the perspective plant it belonged to. None of the plants had any real runoff from the amount given today, so I’ll probably start feeding every two days instead of every 3-4. It happens with each grow. The trick is to identify how much they need, and how often. It seems to change with every plant. So as I stated above; each plant received about 1/2 gallon of water and nutrients that was prepared a few days ago. Each plant received CALiMAGic 2ml, FloraMicro 2.4ml, FloraGro 2ml, FloraBloom 4.2ml, Floralicious Plus 1ml, and Liquid KoolBloom 1ml. The pH going in was: C1 - 6.7, C2/C3 - 6.6. As I said above, there wasn’t enough runoff to measure, so I don’t have runoff data today. The temperature in the tent was 84F, and humidity was 57%. I measured each plant and adjusted the lights according to their growth. C1 is now 23 inches tall, C2/C3 are both 23.5 inches tall. I adjusted the lights to all be 15 inches over each plant. Light spill off is still awesome for all three plants, and each one of my lovely ladies is looking absolutely amazing! 15 Sep 2021 My plants are doing AWESOME!! I looked in on them a little earlier today and just sat in my floor and looked at them. They are doing amazing! Absolutely beautiful!! I have used a support (scrog) net for each of my grows so far; till this one. At least so far that is. I may end up putting it in to support the branches once they are loaded with bud, but for right now I have just let them grow as they naturally want too. Of course there are some exceptions to that last statement. At the end of my first week of flower I decided to defoliate and prune them down. I did so much defoliation and pruning that I thought I may have hurt my girls, but nope! They have responded even better than I had hoped. I trimmed off all of the lowest branches that weren’t already long enough to get full light exposure, as well as most of the small intermediate branches growing off of more established branches. The result… every node growing on every branch is developing buds! All of them are getting full light exposure, and ventilation from the fans inside the grow room. These three are looking better than any of my previous plants thus far. I am very pleased with how they’re doing! I’m feeding again today because what I gave them yesterday just didn’t seem sufficient. None of them had any runoff to measure; so I’m going to make sure that they do as well as possible! I’m sticking with the mid-bloom stage 4 of my Flora-Trio 6 part feeding chart at 50% of recommended levels. My plants are doing great at 50% strength so far, so if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! No deficiencies have been seen, so I’ll keep on keeping on that. Each plant received a mixture of a gallon of water with the following nutrients: CALiMAGic 2ml, FloraMicro 2.4ml, FloraGro 2ml, FloraBloom 4.2ml, Floralicious Plus 1ml, and Liquid KoolBloom 1ml. C1 and C2 didn’t take the whole gallon, but about 3/4 of it. C3 took the whole gallon, but that may be because it is in a bigger pot. The initial pH of each was: C1 - 6.4, C2 - 6.5, and C3 - 6.3. I added pH UP to each as follows: C1 - 2ml, which adjusted to a final pH of 6.7. C2 - 1ml, which adjusted to 6.9, and C3 - 1.5ml, which adjusted to 6.6. I still haven’t gotten another TDS meter, so no TDS data to report. Runoff for all three plants was lower than I expected. C1 was 5.8, and C2/C3 were 5.7. I really expected them to be near 6.2 or thereabouts, but nope. I’m going to have to keep an eye on that. The humidity today was 65%, which is pretty good. The temperature in the tent was 84F. It was over 90F outside today, so hot outside = hot in the tent. 🤷‍♂️ They’re still looking great! Happy growing everyone!