Letzte Woche der Blüte. Mit wasser gespält und die letzte woche kein dpnger mehr benutzt.

This has had to be the most easy strain to get dense buds and high yield at the same time. This plant reached 1.3gr/watt

This beautiful lady is doing well! She is flowering beautifully and strong 💪! Doubling up on her flower nutrients!

Está 5 semana de vegetación la planta dejó de estar en indoor y fue puesta en el patio, aquí recibe el sol de 11 am a 4 pm, al parecer se está espigando un poco pero en mi indoor estoy cultivando plantas automáticas correctamente desde el principio para mejorar la producción.

Had a lot going on this week so the plants didnt get any care or maintenance at all other than just checking on the water level a couple times. They need some major defoliation which I wanted to do this week but procrastination is the vibes currently. Will probably get some done next week.... the plants are looking good and most of them are bushing out pretty nice. They dont seem to be stretching as much as they normally do by this time, but they are transitioning to flower. Will probably do a flush and water change soon since they haven't had one in over a month. I'm just anxious to see some frosty buds at this point.

Todo bien, seguimos. Próxima semana se cambia el fotoperiodo, se aplicará una defoliación para evitar posibles plagas

Not much other than yet another super progressive week! Oppsies tape came off and it was fully healed. I'm shocked. Went through and defoliated today and grabbed some pictures. Didn't grab many through the process. Week 1.5 of flower was solid.

Got good growth from the topping going to veg another two or three weeks

This fine little chunky lady is finishing up just perfect! Nice dense buds, with an actual blue hue to them! Beautiful bud! Rock hard! Loving this little girl very much! Who's says ya cant grow fire bud in a solocup!? Looking at 1-2 more weeks!

Terraman Dey 53

great strain, it has an awesome scent and taste, average yield but really great buds! it was a pleasure to grow it, i harvested a bit early but due to bad weather and high RH i had to harvest

Hello my friends 👨‍🌾🌲, All was fine this week, Harvest look more and more close, I think between 1 or 2 weeks. I started to stop a fertilizer, I've given a last time water + rqs tabs + sugar royal this start week. After that only Water. 2.5l/plant each 2/3 days PH@6 And will start my flush this new week. Sorry not many pics this week, I was a bit busy, so just pics from today (the principal 😁) Have a good week my friends, Thanks for supporting, like, com, follow, it's really much appreciated 😊👍💪😘 See you next week.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Haze is growing like a haze too big lol had to do some supercropping to the main cola was stretching too much for my liking she's bushy finally showing some nice pistols did a big defoliation on the 3 sativa's the haze has got nice node spacing so far and scent is really strong now hash kind of smell .kicked the nutes in full swing added some terpinator,beasty bloom and tiger bloom to kick start the flowering process a bit more and get some beasty buds and using some leftover nutes lol hope it goes well and they handle it Will get some better pics soon ... installed scrogg net to bring down to grapegum level she's throwing pistols out every where hope scrogging this late won't have an effect thanks happy growing guys

Auto Northern Dragon Fuel is growing good. She was just lollipopped today. I also selectively defoliated her canopy. She was very bushy and dense with leaves. She is developing well, and should start bulking soon. Nothing more to report at the moment. Thank you Super Sativa Seed Club, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Added video on may 16 for a good look May 11 We are now almost at the end and I must say it sparkles more than anything else I have had so far I specifically took photos and the video using only the light from my phone. Despite the burn marks, she's a real sight to behold. She makes it difficult for me to take photos with a flash because she's covered in trichomes that simply bounce the light back. The buds look great and healthy and are now in their final stages of ripening. I hope everyone enjoyed this cup. I've been through thick and thin with this plant, and I really enjoyed it.Regardless of whether I win the cup or not, I'm already a winner with this beautiful plant. It smells great, and I'm already looking forward to smoking it. Thank you all for your attention. This is the largest diary entry I'll be making, in terms of pictures. Of course, there will be more pictures and videos until the end of May. She will now receive advanced nutrients as prescribed and Plagron's Green Sensation for the rest of the time. In one or two weeks I change the water and just let them stand in normal water. THANKS 🙏🏻🔥😌❤️