end of week 5 Buds have developed well and are more compact and nicely swollen. The smell becomes more and more intense. Sweet smell spicy Honey Cream: sweet smeel R. Gorilla: a bit spicy I hope the buds are getting even thicker now we see you next week Update: I have a slight deficiency in 2 of the 4 plants, very strange since all plants get the same conditions and nutrients. the gorilla on the bottom right shows no signs of nutrient deficiency. any Idea why? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Controller AC Infinity Pro - connector for the external light control, RJ-12 - 2 plugs with which I can control dehumidifier and humidifier on automatation. - 2 fans run 24/7, 1 Oscillating from spider farmer Light - 12/12 h | 2 x 200 Watt PPFD - 900-1000 µmol VPD - 1,3 - 1,6 week average RH: 55,1 % Temp: 22,9 ° VPD: 1,28 kPa

OKAY SO I KEPT THEM IN MY DIY SETUP FOR A WEEK AND GAVE THEM THEIR FIRST SUNSHINE TODAY 04/28 NOW THEY ARE ON A 24HR LIGHT SCHEDUELE. SUNRISE IS 5:30AM AND SUNSET IS 6:45PM. I SHIFT THEM OUTDOOR AT 2:00AM AND THEN GET THEM INDOORS AT AROUND 6:30PM UNDER CFL LIGHTS SO NO LIGHT TIME IS FROM 2:00AM TILL SUNRISE WILL KEEP THEM LIKE THIS THROUGH OUT THEIR VEGETATION. ATM I HAVE'NT ADDED ANY NUTRIENTS OR SOIL. BUT I WILL BE ADDING LIQUID NUTRIENTS NPK 40:20:20 FOR VEGETATION IN THE NEXT WEEK. I NOTICED A YELLOW DECOLOURATION ON THE EDGES OF THE COTYLEDONS OF ONE PLANT BUT SINCE IT WAS THE FIRST DAY OUTDOORS I THINK IT IS HEAT STROKE PLUS I HAD TO MAKE A MAKESHIFT DOME TO KEEP THE BIRDS AWAY (OUTDOOR PICTURE ATTACHED) TOMORROW I WILLSHIFT THEM IN A GLASS MADE GREENHOUSE WITH VENTILATION SO WON'T BE NEEDING THE DOMES. KEEP IN MIND THIS IS MY SECOND GROW IN MY REGION (PAKISTAN) AND THE FIRST ONE WAS AMNESIA HAZE AUTO FROM ROYAL QUEEN. THIS YEAR I AM PLANNING TO PLANT SOUR DIESEL AMNESIA HAZE NORTHREN LIGHTS AK 47 YOU CAN CHECK OUT MY DIY INDOOR GROW SPACE IN THE PICTURE ATATCHED IT'S MADE OUT OF SOME MATERIAL I HAD FROM MY PHOTOGRAPHY STUFF I HAVE ALREADY STARTED WITH THE SOUR DIESEL FINGERS CROSSED AND I'LL START PLANTING THE OTHER ONES IN THE COMING WEEKS. Add me on Snapchat! https://www.snapchat.com/add/amnesiahazepk!!

Well folks we chopped the Strawberry Gorilla 😁 And the first of the Strawberry Blast 🍓 🍓 🍓 🍓 Shes a killer for sure , incredibly frosty , and sticky , nice nugs for sure my friends , I plan to redo this one again very soon , the smell is sweet and gassy and berry-licious ...... FC4800 from MarsHydro Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍I've added a RU45 to the mix 👍 www.marshydro.ca 👉I am using Agrogardens for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.agrogardens.com 👈 Agrogardens Cal MAG Agrogardens Grow A+B Agrogardens Bloom A+B Agrogardens Bud Booster Agrogardens PK13/14 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 Would you like to hang with the growdiary community 👉 https://discord.gg/gr4cHGDpdb 👈

Critical x Animal cookies is growing great under the Hortibloom Solux 350. She got a solution change today. She has sone nice frosty colas growing. She is mid bulking now. Every thing is looking good at the moment. Thank you Hortibloom, and Ripper Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻💪🏻❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Zwei entwickeln sich prächtig und machen das LST super mit die dritte wächst so langsam vor sich her

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 35 and she's just killing💀it👌 👉We are in the Preflower stretch 👈 OG 👍 GP 👍 AF was the hold out be she finally went into Preflower 👈 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the last feeding 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm starting to pull her over and do some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

esta semana se les realizo poda apical al 5to nudo, se vuelve a regar con enrraizante para que nuestra belleza se rexupere de lampoda

Im doing a bit of defoliation, moreover the leaves that covering the buds, i cut some small branches on the bot of the plants, to keep energy for the distal parts of the branches. Every 2 day approximately, to no stress a lot the plants, I pinch the apex of MD1, MD2 and BB1, that my secondary branches go up, until the height of the apex central. Nutriments : 2,0 mL/L of rhizotonic, 2,5 mL/L of cannazym every watering. 2,0 mL/L of terra vega every 2 or 3 watering in case of they need (N) until the final of the strecht (first 2 weeks of bloom). I will put 5L every watering (pots of 18L) and I will analysed the drain of every plants to check pH and the fertilizer amount. Im really proud of theses plants, they are strong, resistant (the trunks are huuuge, moreover the Moby dick from Dinafem) and so healthy !! The MD 3 has reacted really really good with the topping ! Im impressed and quite sure do topping next time ;) I hope they will give me the best of themselves !!!! Lets wait the final of the strecht 😉

Hello guys, Here I am again to present you a new run, still with the best leds of the market nevertheless as I changed my growing space from 120x120 to 150x150. So I had to update the material inside... I will run with 3 EVO 5-150 lamps of 320W or 960W with Bluetooth dimmers. For the Hydro system, it will be the V-SYSTEM from Alienhydroponics. In fertilizers I am always with Advanced Nutrients. I work with osmosis water. Currently, 4 clones took on 4. Once the roots are ready, I will transfer the cuttings from the propagator to the V-SYSTEM. ------------------------ since the 16/08, when I transplanted the plants in the RDWC system, I noticed some points that I will mention below and correct next time. 1. The cuttings are too small, allow enough time so that I can completely fill my pots with clay balls. 2. Cut out the bottom of the pots from the cuttings. 3. 3/4 of the cuttings are touching the water, so one is late. Next time when transplanting, add more water, up to the basket in order to immerse all the plants and not to create a difference between each one, consequence now I have 3 that are ready to explode and one that will struggle behind, problem corrected today by increasing the volume of water. 4. The b-52 is a real pain in the ass in RDWC, you have to clean the 2 filters almost every day, with this new soup I'm testing without and I think I'll continue like this just with the base sensi grow A and B, as I use Root rot X, I won't use voodoo juice since all the bacteria would be killed. 5. Use of Voodoo Juice is useless if using Root Rot X which will kill the bacteria. I don't know why but when I transplanted in the RDWC, I put my set up in growth mode, except that the plants were not ready for it, moreover, I made a FIM on each. So I lost some days, these last days I went back to a ppdf of 150, now that my roots touch the water, I declare growth 0 on 22/08, I will do between 21 and 28 days of growth. And as my roots are doing well and touching the water I'll go to a PPFD of 300 ++

Cool, buds are gettin fatter at the end.. Started to give her Final Part, 2.5 weeks left.. Everything works

Una semana muy tranquila, nada en especial . Máximo fue quitar tres o cuatro hojas por planta que hacian mucha sombra. Una semana viendo engordar los cogollos :-) A very quiet week, nothing special. At most, I removed three or four leaves per plant that were casting too much shade. A week watching the buds fatten up :-)

26 días de vida para estás darkdevil auto hay vamos mi gente hay una que ya tiene los cálices morados las otras aún no

Week 9 - First Week of Flowering 🌸 The dark period has ended, and these ladies came back into the light fully energized and ready for action! It’s just the first week of flower, and they’re all praying, stretching, and absolutely thriving—filling up every inch of the tent. This grow space is officially packed from wall to wall, with each plant competing for its share of light and showing off some of the biggest, healthiest leaves I’ve seen yet! 🌱 A few strategic plucks here and there have kept airflow smooth and light penetration balanced. Those big leaves? They’re a sign of happy, healthy growth. Large leaves help the plant capture maximum light energy, essential during this stage, especially as they start focusing on developing those flowers. When plants grow huge, vibrant leaves like these, it means they’re well-nourished and content in their environment—a true testament to the well-balanced conditions we’ve got going in the tent! Flowering Parameters 🌡️ Room Environment: • Temperature: 26.7°C • Humidity: 63.3% • CO2: 960 ppm • VPD: 1.29 kPa (prime zone for flowering health!) Lighting: • Light Intensity: 835 PPFD (ideal for boosting flower growth) • Solution: pH 5.96, TDS 460 ppm, temp 21.1°C • Medium: Moisture: 100%, TDS: 520 ppm, Temp: 21.6°C Carbon Filter Installation & Smell Management 🌬️🌱 With the transition to flower, the scent profile is already starting to kick in—crazy for the first week, right? 🌸 To keep everything fresh and under wraps, I’ve set up a carbon filter system. Here’s how it’s working: I’ve connected the filter to my Aerofan, which pulls air directly from the tent. This air is cleaned by the filter and released into the main room, where it then passes through another filter before exiting my space. This dual-filter setup means no scent escapes into the wild, keeping things stealthy and the grow room a peaceful, scent-contained environment. Perfect for anyone concerned about keeping their home free from that telltale aroma! 🕶️🌬️ Enhanced Lighting with Emerson Effect 🌞 This week, I’ve introduced an extra 15 minutes of red light at the beginning and end of each light cycle. Why? Well, this red boost taps into the Emerson effect, enhancing photosynthesis efficiency, especially during the flowering stage. By stimulating a little extra wake-up and wind-down light, we’re mimicking the natural sunrise and sunset experience for these plants, which can help reduce flowering time. Not only does it encourage smoother transitions into day and night, but in theory, it’ll help these ladies finish a bit faster, while giving them a little nudge to build more substantial, quality flowers. 🌇 Nutrient Adjustments 🌱 Now that we’re in flower, I’ve swapped out the Start Booster for P-Boost and TopBooster to specifically support flowering needs. Here’s why: • P-Boost brings in additional phosphorus, vital for energy transfer and cell division as the plant channels more resources into budding sites. • TopBooster supports the flowering phase by improving flower quality and density, helping to build those big, aromatic buds we’re after. These changes bring the nutrient mix in line with what’s most beneficial at this stage. All this precise dialing in is easy to manage thanks to the TrolMaster system. From pH to nutrient scheduling, the TrolMaster ecosystem and ThinkGrow LEDs have been the ultimate teammates in this grow journey, giving me real-time data, fine control, and peace of mind. 💯 (Not introducing UV light just yet, but stay tuned as that’s coming soon for an added boost!) Looking Forward 🌟 Next week, we’ll be upping the reds, giving us an even greater chance of activating those flowering signals for a smoother, faster transition through the cycle. I’ll keep tweaking and fine-tuning every parameter to make sure these ladies get exactly what they need to thrive. Big thanks to the TrolMaster system for keeping everything in balance and optimized, along with the supportive Grow Fam following this journey! Your enthusiasm, advice, and support are a huge part of this grow’s success. Keep following for more updates, and stay tuned for what’s next! 🌿✨ P.S. Deep Dive: TrolMaster’s MBS-S8 CO₂ Sensor & Smoke Detector 🚨 The MBS-S8 CO₂ Sensor from TrolMaster is a powerhouse for growers, especially when it comes to optimizing plant growth and efficiency in a controlled environment. This sensor continuously monitors CO₂ levels and integrates directly with the TrolMaster ecosystem, giving you real-time data on CO₂ concentration. Ideal levels of CO₂ can significantly boost growth and yield during certain stages, so understanding and managing CO₂ is key. With the MBS-S8, I can control CO₂ levels precisely, keeping them within the optimal range for photosynthesis. This sensor is a game-changer because it adjusts CO₂ delivery automatically, giving plants exactly what they need without any extra monitoring from me. Meanwhile, TrolMaster’s Smoke Detector is an essential safety device, especially in spaces with electrical equipment, lights, and heat-generating components. This detector can be set up to alert me instantly via the TrolMaster app if any smoke is detected, allowing me to respond immediately to any potential issues. Fires and smoke are rare in controlled grow setups but having this safety measure provides peace of mind and lets me focus on the plants without constant worry. It’s an incredible tool for any grower prioritizing safety and proactive monitoring. Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Muy complicado . He notado un color verde amarillento , he buscado y todos dicen que es carencia de micro micronutrientes y nitrógeno , además un excesivo uso de P K haciendo bloqueo de nutrientes , según algunos amigos cultivadores ... estamos tristes pero siempre tratando de darle lo mejor . Te amo

I hope to see her again.

I should have more room for this one in the next 2 to 3 weeks, then I can start growing her. I am flexing my gro knowhow muscles by keeping this one as small as possible for as long as I need it to without killing it. Sometimes this technique will come in handy so it is good to practice it.

Well I have chopped all the girls but one and they are hanging, whole plants on hangers in the dark 5x5.Will update yields as these ladies dry up.I got a light breeze going against the wall of the tent with temperatures around 67 and humidity at 62.