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@Ensign420
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Week 02 Introduction This week has been a bit of a struggle. Had my first experience dealing with slime and brown algae. But I think adding enzymes and increasing the beneficial bacteria helped to fix the issue. Also experienced nutrient burn for the first time. My nutrient solution strength got as high as 671 PPMs. So backed it down to about 430 PPMs during the end-of-week reservoir change. Also cut Hydroguard (expired?), CaliMagic, and Superthrive from this grow. Now she's still stunted, but is starting to recover. Hopefully... [START OF WEEK 02] Day 01 - Monday - 08/10/20 - Total Days: 008 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Still looks a bit yellow. But getting larger! --- Solution strength was at 248 PPMs. --- Just topped off with a bit of distilled water --- PH went up to 6.1 so PH'd down to 5.8 --- Ran the top feed for a bit to wet the hydroton. - [2130]: She's looking even more yellow now. --- Even the new leaves are really yellow. --- Decided to add more base nutes. --- Added 4ml of Sensi A --- Added 4ml of Sensi B --- Now at about --- Solution Strength went up to 304 PPM. --- PH was at 6, --- Also raised the water level a bit more. --- I really hope it's a nutrient deficiency and not an over-watering issue. --- Please live! Day 02 - Tuesday - 08/11/20 - Total Days: 009 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looking less droopy. But still yellow. --- Decided to do a reservoir change. --- 4.5gal of distilled water --- 8ml of Sensi Grow A --- 8ml of Sensi Grow B --- 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- 4ml of B-52 --- 4ml of CaliMagic --- 4ml of Hydroguard --- 4 drops of Superthrive --- PH'd down to 5.8 --- Solution strength: 302 PPM --- Since I didn't want to risk over-watering the rockwool, I did not to do a top feed, may do one tonight after the sleep cycle (lights are still set to go off at 10am and back on at 4pm). --- As I was doing a reservoir change, I noticed that the tubes and bucket were a bit slimy. Didn't really stink or anything. Is this normal? Maybe due to the Hydroguard and Voodoo Juice? --- I hope she gets better soon! - [2215]: Getting larger! But still yellow. --- Also can see a root growing through the net pot! Tiny little thing but it's there! Will have to start dropping water once more appear. --- After looking over a few DWC diaries using AN nutes, seems like my solution strength is still too low. Most around this stage average around 500 PPMs with about 4ml per gallon. --- Top fed for a minute to wet the top of the hydroton. --- Solution strength went down to 263 PPM. --- Added 8ml more of Sensi A --- Added 8ml more of Sensi B --- Now base nutes are at 16ml for 4.5 gal of water. --- PPMs went up to 411. --- Still lower than 500 PPMs, but that's okay. --- PH was at 6. Not sure if I should adjust PH using AN nutes. So going to not ajdust unless PH goes above 6.1. Day 03 - Wednesday - 08/12/20 - Total Days: 010 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looks like more root growth! --- She still looks yellow. But leaves are perky. --- PH was at 6.2 so lowered down to 5.8. --- Solution strength was at 394 PPMs --- Since roots are still growing, I decide to lower the water level a bit. Now water level is a bit below the net pot. - [2200]: Root is getting longer! --- Slime is returning. Not sure why. --- Solution strength: 357 PPMs --- PH: 6.1 --- Decided to add an enzyme along with more beneficial bacteria to hopefully cure the slime. --- Added 16ml of Sensizym --- Added 5ml of Hydroguard --- Added 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- New solution strength: 430 PPMs --- New PH: 6.1 --- Top fed for a minute. --- This slimy residue is really freaking me out! I hope the added enzymes will help eliminate the slime. --- Going to do a full reservoir sterilization/nutrient change over the weekend. Please survive until then girl! Day 04 - Thursday - 08/13/20 - Total Days: 011 ----------------------------------- - [0930]: I think the enzymes worked! There is little to no slime now! --- Although I think the root was also dissolved in the process. It's now just a little stub sticking just below the net pot. The enzyme is also suppose to dissolved dead roots too but guess that root was too weak? Not sure what happened there. But I think the slime is cured! --- Solution strength went down to 395 PPMs. Decided to add more base nutrients. --- Added 8ml of Sensi A --- Added 8ml of Sensi B --- Added 4ml of B-52 --- Solution strength went up to 598 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.1 --- As long as the PH is between 5.5 and 6.3, I'm not going to use PH Up or Down. But still will monitor PH levels. - [1715]: Checked up on her after her nap and shes looking alive but stunted. But no slime! --- Decided to add some sugars to help maintain the enzymes and beneficial bacteria. --- Solution strength was at 587 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.2 --- Added 8ml of Bud Candy --- Solution strength went up to 671 PPMs. --- PH also went up to 6.3 --- Lowered water level a bit to hopefully promote more root growth. --- Top fed for a minute. --- She is getting bigger, but still looks yellow. Day 05 - Friday - 08/14/20 - Total Days: 012 ----------------------------------- - [0915]: Leaves look a little burnt on the tips. Still no slime. --- Going to back off on the PPMs to hopefully fix the nutrient toxicity. --- Solution strength was at 632 PPMs --- PH was at 6.3 --- Added/Removed water until PPMs were at 536. --- PH was still at 6.3 --- Raised water up a bit, then top fed for a minute. - [2200]: Looking better. Still yellow though. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 6.5 --- Added PH down. --- New solution strength: 518 PPMs --- New PH: 5.2 --- PH was kind of high. So decided to PH down. Had to use quite a bit to bring it down. But eventually got it to drop down to 5.3. A little low, but so far, the PH has always gone up so wanted to start it really low. --- Ran the top feed for a minute to re-saturate the top of the hydroton. Day 06 - Saturday - 08/15/20 - Total Days: 013 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: She looks stunted. leaves are still yellow. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 5.6 --- Top fed for a minute. --- Not sure what to do at this point. Going to do another reservoir change soon. Hoping she lives until then. - [2145]: Looking pretty much the same. --- A bit of slime has returned. Since I've been diluting the nutrient solution, the enzyme ratio has dropped. So I guess this is expected. --- Also noticed that slime build up was on the air-stones. Never really checked the stones so not sure how long that has been there. Looks brown too, which can't be good. --- Going to do an H202 sterilization of the system (minus the net pot) tomorrow so did not add anything. --- Lowered the water level to below the net pot. --- Then top fed for a minute. Day 07 - Sunday - 08/16/20 - Total Days: 014 ----------------------------------- - [0900]: STERILIZATION DAY! --- Decided to skip today's night cycle for a deep clean. --- I'm hoping that skipping a night cycle won't be too stressful. --- Temporarily moved her to a new bucket. --- Used about a half of gallon of straight distilled water to flush out the net pot. --- Drained the system and wiped up all the brown sludge. Also removed the air stones and cleaned up all the goo. --- Filled the system with 2 gallons of distilled water and at least 30ml of food grade hydrogen peroxide (35% strength). --- Yea its a lot, but since I'm not going to sterilize the system overnight, I went with a really high doseage. Basically I kept adding until I started to see little bubbles start to form. --- Then I ran the water pump. - [0915]: Boiled the air stones in tap water for about 10 min. Then reconnected them to the airlines. --- I let the air stones and hose soak in the sterilization solution for about 5 minutes so the peroxide can absorb into the stones. Then ran the air stone to help mix and agitate the solution. --- Occasionally, I'd repeat the process of turning the air pump off for a few minutes to let the stones soak. - [1000]: Covered the top two row of holes of the net pot with some aluminum tape. Hopefully this solves the light leaking in through the hydroton. - [1200]: Used an old toothbrush and scrubbed the pump clean. Then drained the system. --- Refilled with more distilled water and peroxide. Again added a lot. --- Ran system again to sterilize even more. - [1530]: Drained the system and refilled with distilled water to rinse. --- Ran the system for a few minutes, then drained and rinsed again. --- Did this a few more times over about an hour. - [1630]: Added 4 gallons of fresh distilled water. --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow A --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow B --- Added 12ml of B-52 --- Added 16ml of Voodoo Juice --- Added 16ml Sensizym --- Solution strength was at 430 PPMs --- PH was at 5.6 --- I was going to add Hydroguard, but I think the bottle is expired. Since 2017 or 2018!? I think Hydroguard is good for up to 2 years from the date on the bottle or 6 months after opening. So not going to use from now on. I wonder if this could have contributed to the slime build up. --- Also removed the CaliMagic and Superthrive too. Going to only use AN products to eliminate the chance of incompatible nutrients. --- Placed her back in the bucket and top fed for a minute. --- Here's hoping for the best. Going to let it ride until morning! Please feel better! [END OF WEEK 02]
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@Bncgrower
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One more week and this is the last one before switching to 12/12h, I decided to clean a few more sheets and I'm sure it will recover very quickly.. Happy growing! ✌️🌱🌿🍁
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@Moss420
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Added the first screen into the tent. Decided to kick Big Mumma out because she just wasn't growing any taller and the other plants were really over growing her. For the new setup I used kitty litter trays and mesh to sit the plants on - each plant gets its own tray so I can track runoff EC individually and I cut little flaps in the mesh so I can wet vac the runoff. With this setup I shouldn't need to move the plants out of the tent until harvest. For the scrog I just tied some builders rope around the poles of the tent and tied the trellis netting off with training wire. I've been manipulating the growth just to try and fill out the whole screen, I also gave them a good haircut because I plan on flipping them soon, don't want them to outgrow the tent.
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@Anon73
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Week 5 and the plants are bursting out now. I am very pleased with the electroculture, seems like the bugs do not want to touch the plants.
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So just cruising now, last week saw alot of leg work in the defoliation dept, tidying all lower branches, keeping fan leaves to a minimum, and then aiding the scrog by tucking, pulling, anything to keep things moving in the right direction. The challenge now, as stated earlier is to bring all plants ready to flip at the same time, which is a challenge lol, but an enjoyable one. The bench mark here is the scrog, once that's ready everything else can be flipped, the trick is keeping everything else in there low. Atm 6 plants are hooked up to the Res,with another 2 to follow. Currently drinking about 40 liters every 2 to 3 days. It's amazing how much they can drink... Another tucking session, the nets almost filled now, so I'll probably Monday, depending on how it's looking. I replaced the vipra with another maxbloom and moved the vipra into my smaller tent for the Royal Gorilla grow. So far all is going well with no hiccups health wise.
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@Lazuli
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The growth went as planned, not too bushy and not mich stretch and fast flower
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We just pushed through another absolute beast of a week, and the first half of it was pure survival mode. The temperatures peaked at a jaw-dropping 39°C, and even the nights offered zero relief, staying at a sticky 26°C minimum. It’s been an intense endurance test for an outdoor grow! The Daily Hydration & Feeding Strategy: 💧 To keep them from turning into crisp, dry twigs, I had to switch to a strict every-single-day watering schedule. Missing even one day in that kind of heat wave would have been catastrophic. Amazingly, the ladies are showing incredible resilience—they haven’t displayed any noticeable signs of distress or major issues so far. Development is moving along beautifully, though I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there won't be any delayed fallout from the extreme heat stress. Nutrient-wise I'm feeding them at about 75% of the recommended dosing plan to keep them happy without overdoing it in this heat. The Strain Breakdown: 🌿 Lemon Cherry Cookies Auto: This girl is absolutely crushing the game right now. She is already stacking up some seriously decent, chunky buds, and the aroma is getting beautifully pronounced and loud! Every breeze brings a sweet whiff of what's to come. 😉 Amnesia Haze Auto: She has turned into an absolute monster! She’s gotten incredibly big and wide, taking full advantage of her outdoor space. You can definitely see that Sativa heritage shining through—judging by her progress, she’s definitely going to take a bit longer to cross the finish line compared to the quicker, Indica-dominant ladies like the Lemon Cherry Cookies. Bruce Banner Auto & Banana Purple Punch Auto: These are the two shorter ladies of the group, but what they lack in raw height, they make up for in sheer health. Size aside, they are doing exceptionally well, looking super vibrant, healthy, and stacking their own flowers nicely. All in all, I’m incredibly proud of how these genetics are handling a brutal summer. Now that the worst of the heatwave seems to be behind us, I can’t wait to watch these buds really start to swell!
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16 days of slow drying each plant with the environment controlled inside the tent with 2 meters. I have two fans on, pointing at the floor to circulate the air temps - 20 - 23 º humid - 50- 60 %
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@Natrona
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Week 7 7/25-31 AUTO Pablo Escobar 7/25 2gal TPS1 30ml Cal mag 5ml Recharge 5ml Kelp 2 tbsp PH 6.3 PPM 1010 Temp 73 7/28 2gal TPS1 45ml Cal mag 5ml Recharge 5ml Kelp 80ml PH 5.7 PPM 1210 Temp 72 Auto Escobar bounced back nicely from last week's defoliation. Escobar's opening her structure to open the lower inner branches made her really wide. Bumping Thank you @DivineSeeds for the opportunity to participate in not only the photo contest but also the auto grow contest. Thanks for the visits, likes and comments; I appreciate all the plant love💚. Have fun & love what you grow 💚 Sending you good vibes of love, light, and healing 💫 💫Natrona 💫
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@Mr_Pgrow
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So, first week of flower and she is growing strong. Started day 30 with some LST and some light defoilation. Day 31 i applied a net, first time using one so not the best, but seems to work great at spreading branches out. Only watering when needed and water uptake has took off this week, so keeping a close eye so she doesn't dry out to quick and also im conscious as to not over water.
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Hello and welcome to day40 of flowering of this little lovely plant. The smell is incredible. Zkittlez. No joke. Very sweet with a a hit of Watermelon too, not so strength by now, but i will report. Ill try to catch up some photos. Not only that the phylaxien re going brown. The colors on the buds, rose, Lila.(edit i was wrong Lila color was from the Greenception GC4) Till now. BARNEY FARM!!! At this BARNEYS FARM grow they bring a smile on my face. A very pretty strain Thank you! The BioBizz TOP MAX is from ny next noise forbidden to use because of a unholy smell it turns after some weeks.
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@S_Dubz
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This OGgelato is a champ! Not the heaviest producer, but its been a real pleasure and was easy to grow. No matter what nutrients I throw at her, or aggressive pruning, she bounces right back. This week I found bud rot on one of my other plants in the greenhouse but this plant has so far been resistant and is healthy. I thinned the canopy and defoliated out quite a bit to create more air flow. I now have fans on 24/7 and sprayed with a mycorrizhal fungicide that suppresses botrytis. Also this week I have stopped pulling the tarp on and off each night (for total darkness) because it seemed to trap in too much humidity at night. The humidity outside has been 80-90% for over a week! And the rain was so heavy all last week. This week is slightly warmer with less rain so hoping we can make it. The trichomes are starting to get milky. I imagine I have 1-2 weeks left but am not sure. This has been a pleasurable experience for sure, but this is stressful right now! The smell is so strong you can smell it on my block. You can see *everything* from the alleyway adjacent to the greenhouse. I'm worried about mold and thiefs and can not wait for this to be dried and in jars!
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No major changes this week 🍃 The plant has become very bushy and dense, filling out nicely. 🌱 I also have the feeling that the pre-flowering stage has begun, with the first subtle signs starting to show. Exciting times ahead! ✨
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Welcome to Flower Week 2 of Fast Buds Purple Haze Auto I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my FastBuds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Auto Purple Haze: Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Fast buds • 💧 Humidity Range: 60 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 8 Weeks • Strain Info: 23%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 12 • Nutrient Brand: Hy-Pro • ⚡ Lights : 600W x 2 A huge thank you to Fast Buds for allowing me to try my Best with this amazing collection from Automatic and Photo Strains they managed to Sponsore . Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!
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Exuberante automática, de talla media pero con cogollos muy comprimidos, de colores hermoso combinándos. Los cogollos que salieron eran muy prietos y con un aspecto muy bonitos, de aromas terrosos y dulces Para ver todos mis otros diarios https://growdiaries.com/grower/juanhaze-arg/diaries
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@Fatnastyz
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11-29 Bad news, Banana Purple Punch has been let go. 😭 She was very stunted and tiny, so I made the bold decision to call it. Thought about letting her finish, but she was really small. But Strawberry cheesecake is making up for it!. This thing seems super happy atm! She has jumped to around 12 inches. Stretch is officially on! Triple grape is rockin too, few flimsy leafs, bud branches. One of the branches, kinda twisted itself. Imma look into that one. But both rockin and lovin the EM1. More importantly than the rest! I still haven't over watered or fed. 😁💪 Time will tell, but I'm staying the course! Happy Holidays 😁🤘 12-1 2k water, silica 3ml, cal/mag 3ml, drops balance 1ml and some dust of yucca. 6.2 Stripped GC of anything blocking anything else . Couple blocked bud sites too. Wont touch for at least 3 days. Maybe 4, we will say next water? She may be a bit stressed 😂 Im sure the stripping didnt help. 💪🤘 3x- 11.5 inches tall Scc- 12.5 in tall . .
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@Naujas
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Day 76!!!! 320 gr. it's amazing :) the girl would definitely be bigger if I could provide the right conditions :) unfortunately, it's too hot for me at the moment :( but she did it :) what's most important :) I'm happy :) next time we'll improve :) there will be an update after drying :) in 89 days I used 257 kw of electricity :) I got about 450-500 gr :D from two girls' car, I think it's not a bad result either :) :)