this week I wanted to add a wire mesh between the pot and the saucer, to make the roots breathe more and not to sediment the nutrients on the bottom. I increased the ventilation because in flowering it needs less humidity and decreased the nutrients after noticing a yellowing in the tips of the leaves. we are almost there 😍😍

Day 77 - Chillin heavy! Buds are bulking up, with extreme vigor! 2.5 gallon dosage of the above listed nutes lasts for 6 days, before drying out 95% to be ready for another dosage! (Dry Koolbloom measured as 3grams/2.5gallons)

Well, this is it. Wish I had bigger buds. Everything was moving in the right direction until the end. I switched the Mars Hydro 3000 out with two HLG 300s, so I could maintain the PAR just under 1000, but perhaps it wasn't enough. G13 is definitely not ready, and could benefit for a couple more weeks, but like a store liquidation, THEY ALL MUST GO NOW All in all, Learned a lot. No seeds, reveg, or signs of mold, so hopefully I'll make up for quantity with quality. Only Dry Time will Tell...

Babies are quite happy with some big buds growing...

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres Stretch 15centimètres Jour42 defolliation Jour45 arrosage avec de l'eau 1ml topmax Jour47 arrosage avec deux litres d'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz Quesque le stretch ? How to Control Stretching: Mastering Cannabis's Growth Push Stretching is a natural growth spurt for cannabis plants, but it is known to affect final yield. We dive into what causes stretching in the first place and how to prevent it from invading your growing space. There is little more irritating than an overloaded grow room. Stretching, the term used to describe the accelerated growth of cannabis stems, is part of the natural process of the vegetative phase and is influenced by plant genetics among other variables. Unfortunately, stretching is a recurring culprit in poor yields and plants that are too long resulting in the wobble of physically unstable crops. Despite the threat it confers, stretching can be controlled by first examining the factors influencing growth and then creating a protocol to accompany these problems step by step. Controlling cannabis stretching requires an understanding of how plants interact with their internal and external environments. WHY DO PLANTS STRETCH? There are many reasons why plants are stretched, one of which revolves around the varieties themselves. Genetics play an essential role in determining the possible height of sativas, indicas and hybrids. While most indica varieties are reared to grow in a smaller and denser way, sativas often undergo significant stretches of up to sometimes almost 2 or more mothers depending on the species. While stretching itself is not harmful, drastic flare-ups on the part of the stems can result in the potential loss of a large crop of between 20% and 30% in total. When thinking about species for your next home growing session, look for the standard size of each variety you are interested in so you can judge whether or not these species undergo drastic stretching during flowering.

Hello my friends 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾 Week was good, The plants are really happy now. I continue my training for the scrog. And did a new defoliation. 💦 I give water each 2 or 3 days 1.5 l/plant Water + Rhizo + Terra vega Water + Rhizo + Cannazym PH@6 Lamp @90%, I'll up to 100% in few days. Light Schedule on/off Wednesday 16/8 Friday 14/10 Sunday 12/12 Was the last week VEG 👨‍🌾🌲 Bisous 💋😘, and see you next week. Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - TS 1000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ts-1000-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - FC3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - SP3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light The High Chameleon - Bisous Au THC 💋💋🌲🌲😘😘 https://www.thehighchameleon.com/shop/bisous-au-thc-83

-4/30/23 Start of week --Week 6 -5/1/23 (Day 44) --Observations: getting clustered in the middle, still growing at a good rate --Changes: removes some shade leaves -5/2/23 (Day 45) --Changes: added new guiders --Comments: some new guiders were added to first set of side branches, should help lengthen branches and make some space for the other ones. -5/3/23 (Day 46) --Changes: removed two of the branches (used for clones), added new guiders --Comments: to free up space two branches were removed, the remaining spade leaf branch and the branch on the bottom side of the main stem. these branches were used as potential clones, one might not survive because the stem is short and curved but the other will most likely take root. after branch removal new guiders were added to pull down the remaining vertical branch, also guiders were placed to influence second set of side branches. -5/6/34 (Day 49) --Observations: starting to get clustered again --Changes: defoliation, added new guiders --Comments: removed several shade leaves to free up space, also added some guiders to secondary branches to try and keep them from growing into each other during the pre-flower stretch. tomorrow will be the start of flower cycle, the light is getting set to 12/12 light/night at the end of today. will not be removing any leaves or branches during the first three weeks of flower cycle, at the end of week three a defoliation will be done if needed. -5/6/23 End of Week

I'm running a little test here🤓, I have cut the upper tops of the plant, and left the buds that were getting almost no light. I'm curious whats gonna happen... The idea is off course that those bud will turn out thick and fat as well😋. I'm gonna keep a close eye on the trichomes, so nothing gets out of hand and turns to brown. The shock of the harvest will take at least a day or 4 for them to get back I think, but maybe even a week... After a week I'm gonna decide if I will chop, or give m another shot overdrive. It all depends on how the trichomes look and the overall look of the plants.🤓 Have a nice week and till the next🤙🏼

Que dire mise à part que se strain est tous simplement magnifique ? Il porte bien son nom, il commence à être bien Frosty! Et la couleur violet commence à apparaître de plus en plus! Les bud sont beau et dégagent une belle odeur fruité, le plant a une sacré couverture résineuse, je pense qu’elle pourrais être parfaite pour faire des extraction! Cette semaine je lui ai donné un thé de compost oxygéné, on va voir comment elle va réagir. Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! Pour la Frosty j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons.  La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines.   Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis  La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter.  Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

week intel: its time for second pruning they grew up too fast and need second pruning as below : first i remove big fan leaves and only leaves then let them rest for 1 day then the second part of pruning will get done that is removing branches based on these conditions: 1-if the branch is very low and never can make it to the top , 2- if branch is in shade even after pruning fan leaves , 3- if there are too many branches at the small space then non of them will get resources so if there is no space for branch then , they must get remove. everything is perfect! stresses : pruning big fan leaves and lower branches + a little E.C stress around 1.7 once a week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them heavy with silicate +base nutrients(calcium & micros + Bloom) about 884 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Feeding Booster + Karbo Boost around 325 ppm - 0.6 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them with low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 213 ppm - 0.4 e.c to let them recover the stresses to get ready for another stress next week. guide of the week : no more stresses from now on till the end and from next week i'll reduce the amount of nitrogen and calcium to below half to the end.

well this little girl has just started pre flower so she should be in full flower by this time next week. Hopefully she gets some fast growth before the flowering begins.

Day 21 The plant looks more on the sativa side and is already showing a small bud, indicating that it's almost entering the flowering stage. However, there's still a chance that it will grow more in size. That’s why I’m very optimistic that it will still gain some height, if not she will be Chopped down

all together: welcome small plant😂😂 it's a bit hot but the temperatures will drop soil : plagron light mix fertilizer: advanced nutrient PH: 5,8- 6,5 I added a small timelapse of the birth

The girls keep growing ^^ Rainy week, high RH, not a lot of sun... ULH1 is getting TopVeg 1ml/l+TopBloom 1ml/l + BigOne 0,5 ml/l (2 times a week aprox) Been feeding Orgatrex to the ULH2 because it was getting light green, now its getting better. One Original Amnesia Haze has popped and healthy, the other still in the soil ... Good Vibez mates!!

Week 10 January - 16 January 10/1 - Last feed

Day 69: flush 💦 Day 75: water (no flush)💦 & changed place🔚 Pictures are taken on day 77📸 -------------------------------------------------- I will chop her next weekend ⚔️

It’s growing really well and she is tall enough for her 6/7L pot,I give her half of royal queen organic nutrients and the plant next day was happier than ever,I think she will be tall and fat NOTE:I’m not using all of them,some times I’m using half dose biobizz and half from royal queen,some times only biobizz..

Here come the buds! ✌️🏻

7/11 Got half in of rain last night. Glad I didn't water. Ph of rain water is very acidic. Added supports to the blueberry cheese in the 50. I just used string and went diagonal and attached to the cage. Wrote a ton but it disappeared. Anyway looking at previous diaries I was wrong about senescence. It wad the life cycle of those earwigs that did that to my plants (see other diaries). This soil mix is amazing. These plants gave only gotten like two small feeds of big bloom. I showed my commercial buddy and I'll keep it between us what was said but it made me feel really good. I'm considering either expanding the cage in one direction with some lumber I already have or moving a couple outside tge cage. That way I have more room. He said he's seen plants structurally similar reach huge heights (14f) so I'm just trying to avoid future problems. I at least need to get the trellis on. I hope poor that's food enough. Did a real nice video this morning but nothing wanted to upload and it just uploaded the same one twice. I'll try again and hopfully it will go up. If not I'll put it up tomorrow. 7/12 Dad has surgery this morning. I did a quick video and took some pictures. I need to do some rearranging with the plants and cut a pallet to fit in the back. Then I can put a vertical trellis up. Haven't decided if I'll add on to the cage, remove a couple plants or just rearrange things but I'm leaning towards the later. They will need water again and I'm wondering if I should start nutrients but everything looks so good. By this time on past diaries I'd be losing all my leaves bu now. MI think it wad part ear wigs and part to many nutes. This soil mix is taking these plants through veg. I'll probably do a feeding soon but it will be organic and it will he small like a big bloom or ancient amber. Im leaning towards not using growbig this year as my plants seem to be doing great without it. We'll see. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: Went back over and gave plants a full watering. Some were slightly drooping. I was going to add nutes but decided against it as I didn't see any deficiency. So far NO Earwigs! I comed through the plants and I did find a jpn beetle which I happily killed. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and gave it to the 11 plants so it wasn't quite a gallon a plant. I need to rearrange the plants so I have room to move around. I also need to cut another pallet and use the spaces I'm not. Trellis needs to go up. 7/13 I think I've got the watering amount down. Now just to find how often which will depend on weather. I've watered very little this year. They loved that gallon. I was going to use big bloom and kelp me/you but looking at my garden I decided not too. My buddy asked what i was addingvthings for and to wait fir what i added to do what I wanted it to do. I see no nutrient deficiencies so why add anything? I think this soil mixture will get me all tgexway through veg. I dont plan on using much in fliwer either. Definitely good genetics. I really need to cut that palley and move the 1 10gallon to the far back coener. It will open thibgs up so much better. The garden looked so beautiful this morning. Getting very aromatic. I started untangling trellis netting but had to leave. I'll update what I do. Happy growing folks UPDATE: Went back over as I had a slight intuition that I needed to check the garden. I found and killed at least 7 jpn beetles. That's what's been making holes. They tried to escape and bounced off a tarp but I got it. I went through the interiors and found two pillars. If these beetles are gonna be around I'm ordering a net. I'm also close to positive I'm going to extend my cage in the back a few feet. Things are getting unmanageable in here. My buddy said I'll be having problems soon if I don't do something. I'll document what I decide to do. 7/14 Found ONE jpn beetle in the garden this morning. I can manage those well enough. The birds help too. I check my garden multiple times a day so I manually remove many pests. However I've noticed some thrip damage on a leaf and a leafhopper damage on "A" leaf so there are "some" pests around but not enough to spray shit. A couple wasps were doing there job while I was there. Supposed to get thunder storms after three and tonight. Supposed to get over a half inch of rain tonight. I lifted the bags and decided to hold off and let mother nature take care of it as the bags weren't totally dry. Only problem I really have is space. I AM moving that 10gallon (that's the same size as some 20's) in the back. There's 27in not being used and a few feet the other way. My buddy cautioned me that I'm going to have problems since my plants are so crowded. I agree with him. I spoke with me father and we have most materials to extend my cage four feet in the back. I think that's my plan. I'll extend the structure before the stretch then I can put up the supports. We'll see how this goes. UPDATE: Went back over to check the girls as I had a feeling I ought to. When I got there I saw that a couple of the blueberry cheese were pretty light (liftng the smart pot) but the others seemed to be fine. ONE 10th planet was light like that and the purple punch in the 10 gallon was as well. Each plant thar needed it got at least a half gallon of water. I'm waiting to see if we get the thunderstorms and the half inch of rain. I watered the MASSIVE blueberry cheese in the 50 but I only gave it 1 pitcher which is like 1/4 gallon or so. Don't know why I even gave it that. Looked fine but the soil WAS pretty dry. Next year I'm giving myself way more room. I was running trying to chase these jpn beetles. This time I have the dawn and water and a measuring cup to knock them in. This ain't my first rodeo. I did notice some bright yellow streaks on a leaf edge and I'm hoping it's not septoria. I doubt it but I have an anxiety disorder and I worry. I hope I can get the cage extended sooner rather than later. It's getting hard to move in there and more importantly I can't take any more plant pathogen problems. I'm considering starting a plant doctor regimen just to be safe. 7/15 Got a bunch of rain last night. No jpn beetles in the garden and not really much damage. I did notice this (I think it's leaf hoppers) that leave those dots close together on a leaf so it appears I've got a variety of pests. I'm considering how to approach this. I mean the damage is very minimal but I don't want it to get out of hand. Another thing I need to look out for is leaf septoria or any other fungal pathogens. I believe that has been part of my problems in the past. I think that's what caused my earlier grows to drop all their leaves so quick. I think I'm being overly cautious but its very crowded in there. With my father just getting out of surgery the girls will need to wait a little bit before before I can extend the cage. I could still cut the pallet and move the 1 10gallon and that would give more room. I rearranged a LITTLE BIT so they have a little more room but I've really got to get this cage extended. UPDATE: IT Rained so hard I had to pull the car over. We hydroplanned the whole way home. After working ob my house I went to see what the damage would be like. NOT A SINGLE BREAK THAT I COULD SEE. I took a video but since the wifi here sucks I'll have to upload it tomorrow. Walking around in the cage even if I cant get it extended I think I'll be OK. It obviously will open me up to lots more issues but at the very least I can reorganize before I build on. The 10 gal purple punch would fit perfectly in the back and I have a pallet I can cut to fit it in place. Putting that one back and pulling the others forward will be much better than what I've got going on now. I'm also thinking about running an extension cord and putting fans under the canopy or at an angle to keep the wind moving. Just thinking outloud. However after that storm the girls looked as happy as I've ever seen them. All happy praying to the sun, thankful for the much needed rain. Mother nature does a pretty good job with out me messing with it. I've noticed a couple interior lowest leaves turn yellow and die like a nitrogen deficiency but everything else is fine. Also noticed a leaf that looked like a p deficiency but again, it was the VERY bottom leaf on ONE plant. Again the rest of everything looks fantastic. I'll keep an eye out for anymore nutrient deficiencies and if anyone that reads this sees some please let me know. I should've taken stills since they looked so good but I got it on video. 7/16 It POURED last night and throughout the day. TORRENTIAL rain. The branch breaking sheet rain that us outdoor growers learned to fear. My plants aren't trellised currently. I know what I need to do now. I have a pallet to put in the back corner and I'm moving the purple punch in the 10 there. And pulling others forward where there's more room. Then when I extend it (it's gotta be done this week) everything g will be in their proper place and I can just throw on a vertical trellis. I also noticed more (leafhopper) damage on a leaf. Different leaf of the same plant so I'm considering spraying something. I have a number of products but I was trying not to use them. Luckily I have these diaries so I can look back and see certain plants reactions to certain nutes or fungacide/insecticide/nutes and the doses used. I haven't been using much but if my plants will remain cramped I'm going to start the plant doctor. I'm seeing more pillar damage too but BT is super narrow so I'm thinking when I fo spray for pests I might use cap jack and be done with it. Then I can apply the BT in flower if it's necessary. I took a video but I have to wait until tomorrow to upload. I took a quick snapshot though. 7/17 Despite the torrential rain I don't have any breaks. I'm noticing more pest damage though. Another leaf on the same plant had those closely shaped round circles. I forget what pest it is but it's there. Caterpillars are there I'm sure so I may do a preclcentative spray. Just unsure what I'm going to use. I lost a COUPLE very bottom interior leaves that look like they just got used up. After this rain I think think the plants might benefit from a feeding. Probably next water after they dry out. I REALLY need that cage extended. I expressed that today and it should be done this week. I'm looking for pallets today. I have the little one that I can put in the back which will allow me to move the 10 gallon and move the other forward. That will help some but I need more room. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT A SMALL PALLET AND IT FIT PERFECT IN THE BACK ROW. I MOVED THE PURPLE PUNCH IN THE 10 GALLON ONTO IT. I SHIFTED A BUNCHVIF THINGS AROUND. I ROTATED ON BLUEBERRY CHEESE 180 DEGREES SO IT WOULD FIR BETTER. CROP ROTATION IS GOOD ANYWAY. I TOOK VIDEOS AND YOU CAN NOW SEE THE ROWS MUCH BETTER. 2 WITH 3 and 1 WITH 4. IT'S SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN IT WAS. I CAN GET AROUND ALL SIDES OF EVERY PLANT NOW. GRANTED THE LARGE 50 IN THE BACK IS GOING TO HAVE SOME TROUBLE BUT ILL JUST STAKE IT TO THE CAGE. IT WILL GROW TOWARDS THE SUN ANYWAY. IM SUPRISED I DIDN'T LOSE A BUNCH OF LEAVES AFTER THIS RAIN. MOVING THINGS AROUND AND LOOKING ON THE INTERIOR OF PLANTS I FOUND A COUPLE LEAVES THAT HAD BEEN USED UP. I REMOVED A COUPKE LEAVES THAT HAD DONE THEIR JOB. I'LL UPDATE AS I GO ALONG.