The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@420keef
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So i had to take all my plants inside because i found bud rot on 2 of them & the weather wasn’t going to get any better, had to transform my bedroom into a grow room😂 & i have 2 more plants which i am going to finish next to a window.. The smaller plant to the right is a Northern light by zamnesiaseeds that has a seperate diary if you are interested! I really hope the bud rot doesn’t spread anymore & if anyone has any tips or tricks for that they are always welcome!
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@roro_204
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825 watts All healthy . Not much going on .
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Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 40 since time change to 12/12. Hey everyone 😊. It gets more beautiful from week to week 😍. The buds are getting thicker and thicker and already smell very good :-). The time has come when she no longer puts her strength into growth but into the flowers :-). It was poured 3 times this week with 1.2 l each time. When watering, there was 1 g of GHSC enhancer per liter of water as every 2 weeks 👍. Of course, as always, the tent was cleaned every day and the humidifier refilled. The complete filter system was also checked again. I filled the tank with fresh osmosis water for the coming week. I wish you all a nice week. Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻👍 You can buy This Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Strain Gelato clone from mother (Zamnesia ) ☝️ Genetics: Wedding Cake x Gelato x Gelato 33 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
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D36-rain has been coming down every single day it seems. Plant is flowering along, going to spray neem oil by end of the week to deter pests. D37-neem oil sprayed on plants medium and fabric pot. D38-rain and humidity the past couple days. Weeks outlook though is a high of 97, sunny and night temp of no lower than 60. Summer season is officially here :) I have really been doing nothing to this plant except making sure it was watered and in the sunlight. Adding nutes per schedule helps tremendously also with one extra step taken out of the equation. D39-plant is growing and showing good bud sites. Nothing but abundant sunshine this week. Noticed a good amount of trichomes already forming on some leaves, as well as at the base of the side branches. D40-hand watered half gallon as it is brutally hot and sunny. Plant looks good. D41-noticed fungus gnat infestation. Applied neem like crazy to saturate medium. Heck..
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35 DÍAS DESDE EASY START. Maceta RQS 10L. -EASY BOST ORGANIC NUTRITION.(preparación del suelo con 50g en 10 litros de sustrato con perlita) -EASY COMBO BOOSTER PACK. En la 5ª semana estoy regando las 4 plantas con agua mezclada con la pastilla EASY GROW BOOSTER (dividida en 4 trozos para la semana 4,5,6 y 7). diluyendo en 1,5L. de agua la mezcla). -Las 3 que están en vaso de plástico a principios de la semana pasada ya le añadí al vaso uno granos del EASY BOOST ORGANIC que no le mezclé cuando las planté).
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Plants are nearing the finish line. Might not all be quite ready in the next week, but I likely will have to chop them all. I removed some leaves from the center plant (A) and the overfed dark green leaves become obvious.
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@Arcadium
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Weathers been great, a little cold in the mornings, but sunny and 25c every day. Flowering looking great, close to week 5. All the LST done, now to just sit back and wait. Heavy top dress of compost mixed with 70/30 Gaia Green PB/AP (20Tbsp). Weekly spray of BT/Lactobacillus/Epsom, occasionally soil drench of Lactobacillus as well, which is 50% molasses (1-2 Tbsp per gallon). Still seeing tons of moth / caterpillar eggs on mesh netting, but the wasps are making short work of them. Nice even (almost) canopy is making for some great uniform flowering. **Bonus last picture** I had an extra GC FF as a "backup", planted same time but early flowered due to root bound 7 gallon I assume, notice all the single bladed fan leaves, stress maybe? Just harvested, looks good, but I'm sure my main plant will be much better.. Early flowering was sure nice.
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@Rungood
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Encore 2 semaine avant la coupe aujourd'hui grosse défoliation après les photos 😍
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@hialex62
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30.05. - 05.06. (DD.MM.) Because the seeds were eaten by fungus gnat larvae in the first two attempts, in which I placed the seeds in a large pot immediately after germination, I first grew the seeds in a smaller pot (approx. 10 cm in diameter) for this third attempt. Because of the fungus gnat larvae, i poured boiling water over my soil before planting and then covered it with aluminum foil until it was cold. That way I was able to kill all the larvae. I put the plant in my self-made growbox (50 x 50 x 120cm) after about 5 days. The plant was under a planting bell and was watered with 10ml of water on the 7th day after planting.
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Week 1 Day 1 - 8/12/2023 1st Water change Day! Such a special time it is when you remove the little bit of Nutes that you gave them as an appetizer and you give them their first real meal. Added 39 Gallons of Water to my system SILICA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Root Drip = 1mil/Gal = 39mil Cal Mag= .25mil/Gal = 9.75 = 10mil FLoraMicro= 3.0mil/Gal = 114mil FloraGro = 2.0mil/Gal = 78mil FloraBloom = 2.0mil/Gal =78mil ORCA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Week 1 Day 2 - 8/13/2023 Everything is looking good the roots are making their way to the water and the new grow is looking nice and green. Week 1 Day 3- 8/14/2023 Everything is right on track, they are looking beautiful and in the praying position all leaves happily lifting towards the light. Week 1 Day 4- 8/15/2023 A little worried today her birth Twin the BA I am growing out is looking great and is raised towards the light and this one is just slightly under.. Will keep an eye on Her. Week 1 Day 5- 8/16/2023 Walked in and the humidity was under 60.... ohh noooooo.. So I added 2 humidifiers to the tent and attached them to my InkBird controller which is set to 62. Also looking at the roots and she has some poking out the bottom but just not in the water yet.. Luckily we are set for 14 days before next water change so the system will stay stable and her sister already has roots in the water so she should only be a day or two behind.. we will just keep tracking but she is delayed. Week 1 Day 6- 8/17/2023 Roots in the Water!!! Huston, we have a successful launch. This grow is on! Humidity was a little low this morning so I refilled the humidifiers. Other than that the temp looks great, the PH looks good, the PPM looks good the plant is in the praying position and all damage from the little drowning from over filling the cloning machine seems to have been fixed. Happy Happy. Week 1 Day 7- 8/18/2023 Yay.. week 1 in the books, roots in the water growth has started. Everything for growth and environment is looking good and on track, there are a couple of mutations with this Lady will keep an eye on those leaves. IMO this grow is going A lot during this week 1 then week 1 of the last grow when I had them drowning. Really excited on how this grow is going to come out.
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My favorite method to germinate seeds is the 'SERIOUS' method promoted by Serious Seeds. I have almost always a 100% success rate with. Check out the video above for the process. If you hang up the seeds inside a wet paper towel inside a plastic bag, the roots will grow out STRAIGHT instead of being curled when they lay on a plate. Make sure the tip of the seed (=pointy end) is facing downwards inside the bag, so they can open up and grow straight down towards the floor. This makes its easier to transplant the germinated seeds into soil. When you plant the seed make sure the top of the seedshell still peaks out of the soil..this make an easier start for your seedling. They will grow right out of the soil the next day.