Well it's dry and cureing in jars. I ended up with 78 grams of dry sticky buds. Growing this cultivar was a breeze! I mailined her for 8 main kola's and I would say that it was a success. I did however end up with more larf than I would have liked, but I'll be using that for fresh flower rosin in my Rosineer press. This particular pheno did not like her nutrients above a mild strength at all !!! I did flush her 3 times during her life and with good results. The first was to clean and build up of veg nutrients , primarily nitrogen. And the other two times were during flower. I wanted a good transition into flower. I've had a bad habit of thinking that a super dark green plant is what I want in flower. All in all she was a delight to grow. Not to finicky and a forgiving strain imo.

Awe horrible week got slight bit of bud rott was ill for few days and never attended to girls covid sucks but Hopefully still ok ✌️🏻

Laat ik beginnen met de community te bedanken voor de tips en adviezen na mijn vraag deze week, werd erg gewaardeerd! Ik heb ze meegenomen in mijn besluit. Thanks! Alweer een week voorbij, je ziet niets meer van de snoei beurt van begin vorige week! Het is pas het begin van de derde week bloei en de toppen beginnen zich al een paar dagen goed te vormen. Ik geef de dames (vooral de Runtz!) een laatste snoei beurt voor de bloei echt start, en ik gooi de e.c omhoog van 1.6 naar 1.8. Ze kunnen wel wat hebben zo te zien. Ook ga ik de uitschieters weer onder het net terugsteken waar dat nog kan, ook de stammetjes zin al best dik inmiddels!

Va creciendo poco a poco mi watermelon zkittlez

Did some defoilation today just trying to make sure not to remove much. I discontinued using the Amino acids now since it's the last few weeks before harvest. This was my last 2 waterings/feedings. 8/19/22 Bruce Banner watered with 1 gallon ph'ed water to 5.2. Runoff was 6.1ph, 345ppm, .7ec Mixed 5ml cal mag, 9ml flora nova bloom, 3.5ml amino acids, 6ml fish shit, 1/2 tsp great white Nutes were 6.0ph, 1384ppm and the ec was 1.5 8/21/22 Bruce watered with 1 gallon. Runoff was 6.6ph, .9ec and 450 ppm. Mixed 5ml cal-mag, 10ml flora nova bloom, fish shit and great white. Feeding mixture was 4.8ph, 1427ppm, 2.8ec. Runoff was 6.2ph, 1.4ec, 683ppm

~ FastBuds PAPAYA SHERBET Photoperiod~ Well here we go on another journey together through 'Canna-land' and this one's kinda special... forget that, it's VERY special because this is FastBuds newest surprise for the community, a FEMINIZED PHOTOPERIOD STRAIN!🤯 I was fortunate enough to score these seeds, of which only 1000 were available and can't wait to see what this strain can do! This Papaya Sherbet, according to FastBuds, is a hybrid with a 9-10 weeks flowering period. For a more detailed and accurate description of this strain the following from FastBuds says it best: "Combining the massive stature of Papaya (Oni Selection) with the strength and resilience of one of our best keeper cuts (Sunset Sherbet), this strain develops into a big, expansive bush adorned with numerous bud sites that later transform into a generous harvest of medium-sized buds. Papaya Sherbet flowers deliver a signature flavor of premium cannabis with subtle citrus undertones that emerge upon inhaling. During growth, her aroma makes for a sweet yet pleasantly bitter fragrance, giving you an idea of what the smoke will taste like. Notably stress-resistant, Papaya Sherbet is a great choice for growers working in challenging environments. She is very forgiving and rebounds quickly from any adversity, allowing growers the freedom to experiment with confidence that she will take everything like a champion she is. This strain embodies resilience, flavor, and abundant yields in every grow cycle." Sounds like an epic strain and I personally cannot wait for this lady to strut her stuff!😍 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Papaya Sherbet photoperiod indoors as our weather is still a bit too chilly to put a newly sprouted seedling outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 40's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures are in the mid 50's℉, which shouldn't be long. After which, she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes from BioTabs and slow release dry amendments from Gaia Green. Once she's established herself outside she'll be given periodic top dressings of Gaia Green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 along with worm castings and Compost Tea's. Her grow area is approx. 5'x5' and I have posts and a trellis net set up already for when she gets bigger to aid in training her. Let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 9/28- The Seventh week of flower is here for the Papaya Sherbet Fem Photo by FastBuds and this lady is looking glorious! 9/30- The weather continues to be cool which is great, the downside is at night we're having heavy dew, which has me concerned about Boytris setting in so I'll start monitoring the flowers daily, removing any showing even the slightest sign of rot beginning. 10/2- My daily routine of watering, removing dead foliage and checking over the Papaya Sherbet continues. 10/4- With the seventh week of flowering behind her now, the FastBuds Papaya Sherbet photoperiod is quickly approaching the end of the road! Next week I will be monitoring the trichomes to try to dial in the ideal harvest time, and at the same time keeping my fingers crossed that she isn't overcome with Boytris... 🤞🤞 Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

First feeding on day 8. I will be watering with nutes and plain PH's tap water every other watering as required by the dryness of the soilless mix. Watering until about 10% runoff each time. Current lighting: mix of LED & CFL- total wattage 71 watts.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂 1/18 11:58AM. BRAM STOKERS TRAILER PARK DRACULA........I SHOULD BE WORKING ON THE PLANTS BUT THIS IS REALLY GOOD. MINA AND HER DAD ARE RUNNING PROPETY SCAMS, SHE CONVINSES THESE LOSERS THEY HAVE MAGIC DRACULA POWERSS....AND WE STEAL THEIR TRAILLER. REINFEILD RANDY , JULIANFIGURES IT OUT AND BLACKMAILS BOTH OF THEM. AND MUSICAL GUEST KISS!! A GREAT HALLOWEEN EPISONDE.... OH I FORGOT I AM SUPOSSSED TO BE GRWOING PIT.

Blütewoche 6 verläuft ohne Probleme. Die Pflanzen sind gesund, Buds werden dicker, Trichome entwickeln sich gut. Kein Mangel, alles im grünen Bereich. Leichte Entlaubung für bessere Luftzirkulation, Gießen wie im Schema. Bin sehr zufrieden – weiter so!

I would like to thank all those in charge of this site. Also all those who supported me and followed me thanks to everyone I will ‏ I will keep you update guys win while the flowers are drying 😍

Had to leave for quick trip away from home for 4 days she was left alone unfortunately had to leave her under eave of garage too Incase it was gonna pour rain so she didn’t get as much sun as we would have liked. Was happy to see more bud and crystal growth. But unfortunate to find some powder mildew and leaf miners on a good handful of leaves. I ended up just cutting those bad leaves off hoping the pm and leaf miners will stop spreading! She was just watered this morning and looking pretty healthy to me.. thinking 2 - 3 more weeks ..

Nothing but plain water this week as the bulking has continued.. trichomes are cloudy and pistils are at least 60/70 percent red depending on the pheno. That tells me its about time to harvest. Also would like to get these ladies down to avoid any bud rot or mold in the larger buds as they are getting quite big and will hold much more water and have lost quality top buds before due to over flushing and the buds having to much water in them at the time of the actual chop and hang. Anyways, they look great I cant wait to give them a try.

Привет садоводы Началась новая неделя растения прошли начальную стадию роста и уже пересажены в свои горшки растения чувствуют себя хорошо в гидропонике раствор разведен на 600 ppm в нем поддерживается ph 5.6 хочу еще немного подождать когда растения подрастут и начать их тренировать LST

The gap between where you are and where you want to be is measured in decisions, not dreams. Dopamine release is not the pursuit of happiness; it's the happiness of the pursuit. "Mens Dei" Cannabis buds can expand or swell in warmer conditions, but this is not necessarily a desirable effect. High temperatures can cause the buds to become airy and loose, reducing their density and potentially impacting potency and aroma. First 4 weeks flower, blazing hot expansion of buds, 4 weeks after cool off? Why?? What can be made to expand, airy and loose, can also be made to contract, dense and tight. Why? Trichomes do not discriminate, although we like to think of trichomes' primary purpose as being to get us high; they are there to provide photoprotection (sunscreen). Trichomes apply themselves based on area dimensions; the more area = the more trichomes in order to protect. Different from density: Trichomes, the resinous glands on plants, are often produced in response to stress, including high light intensity. This increased production can lead to denser trichome coverage on the plant, stress, stress, stress, stress is the signal. There is a certain beauty in watching the large water-filled buds once swollen to the brim slowly shrink during drying, as the surface areas contract, the trichomes just cluster up to form denser and denser coatings, already dense from high light intensities, UVB exposure, and IPS, and every other stressor I could tweak. Trichomes, the resinous glands on cannabis plants, are often produced in response to various forms of stress. These stresses can be environmental, like excess light(HIL) or UV-B radiation, temperature fluctuations, or drought, or mechanical, such as wind, pruning, or even the weight of the plant's own buds. The plant reacts to these stressors by increasing trichome production as a defensive mechanism to protect itself and its valuable compounds like THC and CBD. In essence, cannabis plants perceive stress as a threat and respond by producing more trichomes as a way to protect themselves and their valuable compounds. Several studies have shown this. Not so much a "master" grower as a master of stress. Psssst. Tip. Trichomes fill with "antioxidants," including THC. Ant"ox"idants, The production of antioxidants in plants is intricately linked to their oxidative apparatus. The plant has limited oxidative capacity/apparatus. During daytime photosynthesis, a large percentage of that oxidative capacity is tied up in protecting the plant. During the night, plants alter their metabolic pathways. This leads to a far more focused production of specific antioxidants, like THC. Plants also produce antioxidants during the day. Excess light, for example, can trigger the production of excess antioxidants as part of their defense mechanisms against reactive oxygen species (ROS). The differential ROS production by blue and IR light can have significant biological consequences. For example, high levels of ROS induced by blue light can lead to cell damage and death, while lower levels of ROS produced by IR light may be involved in beneficial cellular signaling pathways. Long nights under the IR (very low ROS), the boost in cellular respiration, and the boost in energy production. In a perfect world, I'd give the plant a shock treatment of 60DLI in 4 hours and give her the other 20 hours to perform cellular respiration under IR. The stress of those 4 hours would be rigorous and full of stress abound, 1800-2000ppm CO2 is easy for a couple of hours during daylight, it's maintaining it that's hard, but 4 hours is very doable with nothing but a little extra "carbon sugar" in your medium every other night during the first 4 weeks of flower. In my opinion, you only need to jack CO2 for those first 4 weeks of flower to see maximal output, after that it's all about trichome preservation, everything else comes second. Without the temps to assist with metabolism, CO2 is reduced to normal levels along with temps 4-5th week of flower. Buds are primarily composed of water. Developing flower buds, like other plant tissues, require a significant amount of water for growth and turgor pressure, which helps maintain their structure and firmness. Turgor pressure in plant cells is primarily generated by osmosis, but transpiration plays a crucial role in maintaining it. The optimal internal leaf surface temperature for photosynthesis at 1800-2000ppm CO2 is likely in the upper range of 97°F, meaning ambient would need to sit at 102°F-ish or thereabout for full metabolic utilization. That's putting your transpirational pulling force x5 x6 maybe x7 of what it would be if she were cruising at 68F. "My buds won't fatten, what can I do!!" Crank that bitch. If your purpose was to blow up a balloon as fast as you can, as much as you can, would you use 2x force or x5 Force to do so? Bad analogy, but you get the idea. Kiss. Optimize photosynthesis & VPD by day, cellular respiration by night. TECHNICALLY: "While transpiration and cellular respiration are both ongoing plant processes, they are not neatly separated into day and night. Both processes occur both day and night, though at different rates and with different emphasis. Transpiration, the release of water vapor from plant surfaces, is primarily driven by sunlight and photosynthesis during the day, but it also continues at a lower rate at night. Cellular respiration, which provides energy for the plant, occurs continuously, both day and night. " BUT Only 10% ATP can be processed through photosynthesis and carbon capture. 90% of ATP is processed when the plant's oxidative capacity becomes available (NIGHTTIME). Cellular respiration relies on the process of oxidation to generate energy. Specifically, the final stage of cellular respiration, called oxidative phosphorylation, utilizes oxygen as the final electron acceptor to produce a substantial amount of ATP, the cell's primary energy currency. Several environmental factors can hinder cellular respiration in plants. These include low oxygen levels, temperature extremes (both too high and too low), humidity, water stress, and the presence of toxins. These factors can impair the function of enzymes involved in respiration, disrupt the availability of substrates, or directly damage plant tissues, thus reducing the rate of cellular respiration. Factors such as oxygen concentration, glucose availability and temperature will all impact the amount of aerobic respiration an organism will perform. See you next grow, *twiddles thumbs* Signum Magnum. Signum magnum Appáruit in caelo Múlier amícta sole Et luna sub pédibus ejus Et in cápite ejus Coróna stellárum duódecim Cantáte dómino cánticum novum Quia mirabília fecit Gloria pátri, et filio, et spirítui sáncto Sicut érat in princípio, et nunc, et semper Et in saécula saeculórum, amen Signum magnum Appáruit in caelo Múlier amícta sole Et luna sub pédibus ejus Et in cápite ejus Coróna stellárum duódecim Cantáte dómino cánticum novum Quia mirabília fecit Gloria pátri, et filio, et spirítui sáncto Sicut érat in princípio, et nunc, et semper Et in saécula saeculórum, amen Signum magnum Appáruit in caelo Múlier amícta sole Et luna sub pédibus ejus Et in cápite ejus Coróna stellárum duódecim Cantáte dómino cánticum novum Quia mirabília fecit Gloria pátri, et filio, et spirítui sáncto Sicut érat in princípio, et nunc, et semper Et in saécula saeculórum, amen Signum magnum Appáruit in caelo Múlier amícta sole Et luna sub pédibus ejus Et in cápite ejus Coróna stellárum duódecim

Buenas van hermosas estas ningún problema aparentemente an avanzando de maravilla y están a full

01/08/2022 Took 3 more smaller ( micro) clone to sure up my supply lol She will stay small in this size pot but her clones will have time to veg a long time. Last picture is fungal dominant compost, getting ready for a long brew 36+ hours. I inoculated compost with baby oat meal (a great fungal food) equal parts with Happy Frog potting mix (loaded with good stuff) posted label with pics. And light water till she stays together with out falling apart (don't over saturate) cover but don't seal you need a little air flow, wait till solid white blanket appears and brew in good water 36+ hours till done.

So she started herming. Guess I'll have to change her name to Big Barry instead 😅 Wish I could grow a testicle everytime I got frustrated, geez. Kids these days. Anyways, I've been really good about any light leaks, and the internal temps have been consistent, so I'm blaming the 'bagseed' genetics. As soon as I saw the pollen, I started misting the plant with regular RO water, and then went in and removed as many pollen sacks as I could find. But I seriously doubt that I was able to find them all, since they're so deeply hidden within the budsites, and will likely be finding more pollen over the coming weeks -___- My first grow, so it's disappointing but Im still proud of her. Might just spread any seeds I find in the buds, out in the yard and see how they do. I certainly won't be TLC-ing mystery genetics again, aside from the clones I took off her-- which are my first clones as well (with 100% success rate 😎). Ive never had a greenthumb so please ignore my horn-tooting lol

Defoliated and lollipop the bottom of the plant at the end of week 2. Plant seems healthy, did an early top dress of 80% bloom 20% veg and I have began using the tribus bloom microbes inoculant at every watering. I will also be making banana peel tea to feed a boost this week.