You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

This plant was planted a week after the other six plants in the tent and she stretched very good during the first week of flower, in veg I saw she was gonna get big fast, she grows super fast and ended up the same size if not bigger than her sisters, very recomended strain, amazing powerful smell, very strong cerebral happy high, I enjoy a lot sativas, diesel it's not my favorite flavor but it's definitely awesome for everyone specially you diesel fans! Congratulations to Gea Seeds providing amazing quality strains to the growers!

Hey I topped them for the 2nd time today and tied the main shoots down a bit. 😊 I think she will cope with it. I'll leave her completely alone for a week now to see if she has slowly recovered from the accident 1 week ago. ❌I have a huge problem with humidity. Maybe someone can help me and tell me how to regulate the humidity❌ PPFD- 705 DLI- 46😵‍💫 Normally I would like to see a 40 DLI but that's not possible without getting below 700 PPFD

I saw a fly in the tent about 10 days ago. The larvae of these flies feed on the roots of the plant. I first watered it with diluted hydrogen peroxide. then i flushed. now the ladies are fine. 🤓🌱🤓👍👍

Tenía que haber metido menos plantas 🌱 An estirado demasiado

34 days. Looks like is doing fine…defoliation, a little bit of food, but mainly water. what do you think?

10 weeks. 70 days. Auto AK 47. Soon I will make updates at harvest and create a new diary of guerrilla outdoor.

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loving the plagron way.s plants are starting to show there sex

So this week after I gave it under nutrients I apparently gave it too much nitrogen while having a potassium deficiency. Shiney dark leaves, So i fixed that, but some didn't bounce back, and I tried nitrogen. I think they are doing pretty good considering everything I've put them through SO FAR. lol. Nutrients are NPK Raw's total lineup, follow their instructions at first, Fastbuds adjustments as of this week.

I harvested 2 of the 5 plants on day 71. The other 3 plants got harvested on day 80 and are in the drying process. My inline fan is running on 25% and I got a fan running on the lowest setting on the bottom of the tent, so I doesnt blow on the buds directly.

Couple got a little burn I think maybe a little too much soil in there with the coco on top of the light feed? I got all the final pots filled up today they will go in 3 gal bags either today or tmm. It's a Greentree pro ultra coco/perlite mixed with some roots organic soil about 70/30.

Gave her some preflower food and more mycorrhizae. She's stretching like crazy 🤣 I'm loving the smell all ready. Smelling lemon and fruits. Gave her some low stress training and at the end of the week.

The smaller Potter of Gorilla Glue is doing okay under the Spider Farmer G3000 light. The nutrition is a little strong for her, but I keep flushing the ph back up every few days. It's not causing any issues anymore, but needs to come up more in the substrate for flowering better. She had a selective defoliation done and fed. Then I placed her back in the tent. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Amsterdam Marijuana Seeds. 🌱🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱 Www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer G300w: https://amzn.to/3S2zvsd Spider Farmer 10X20 Heat Mat Kit - https://amz.fun/lsa0J Spider Farmer Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/spiderfarmer Spider Farmer Official Site: https://spider-farmer.com Discount code: saveurcash

Semana del 3 al 9 de Mayo. Como puse en la pregunta de la semana anterior, ya vieron que tengo una chica hermafrodita. No tengo otro indoor para ponerla, así que la saqué a otra habitación y le puse la TGL60 a ver que pasa. Las otras tres plantas siguen en el indoor con la TGL 220. Como estaban con la malla, me costó mucho sacarla del indoor. Tuve que atarla porque las ramas no se sostenían muy bien por si mismas, así que ahora tengo este ramo que cocecharé más o menos el 16 de mayo. No parecen engordar mucho los cogollos, creo que los insectos afectaron más de lo que pensaba, sobretodo porque estos atacan las raíces. Las luces estaban a 15cm porque es lo que sugiere el fabricante para este periodo. Consideren que no es el clásico led y ya está. Ahora están a 20cm por miedo a que vayan a sufrir algún estrés lumínico.

Day 85 First day of Week 12, day 11 of flower Day 86 Day 12 of flower Watered Plants with 4 gallons of distilled mixed with spring water with 5.3ml/gal of micro, 4.6ml/gal of grow, and 6.0ml/gal of bloom. PH- 6.4@72°F. Plants look good, buds/hairs forming. Really tight node spacing. Day 89 Day 15 of flower, first day of Week 3 of flower Watered with 4 gallons of distilled water with ½tsp/gal of recharge pH-6.6@63°F. Day 91 day 17 of flower Watered with 4 gallons of distilled water with 3ml/gal of "Fish Shit" pH-6.3@70°F. Plant A- 34¼" from the floor, 25¾" from the soil. Plant B- 31¾" from the floor, 22½" from the soil. Plant C- 30¼" from the floor, 21¼" from the soil. Plant D- 34½" from the floor, 25⅜" from the soil.

Explosión de resina!!! Una genética que no me deja de sorprender un olor brutal a cítricos y su olor a Haze un gustazo pra la vista y el paladar sin duda esperamos impacientemente el dia de degustar este manjar!! Espero que os guste Salut y força al canut Farmers!🍁