The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Bueno pues ya llegamos al final familia, do sweet dos es una variedad bastante productiva. De cuatro plantas casi 180gs y la verdad que bastante contento, no tuve tiempo para poder hacer más fotos y trabajar más este post pero con la prisa y la mudanza pues bueno, bastante e cosechado. Humedad en el secado relativamente baja al 40% y la temperatura estuvo entorno a 23 grados ambientales. Hasta aquí todo familia, os recomiendo también la gama de productos de agrobeta, ya que los resultados son llamativos.
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@GrowerL
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26/01 - Day 17 PLANT A I pruned above the third node, with five nodes formed, and kept the bottom ones. PLANT B I pruned above the third node, with five nodes formed, and also the nodes below the third.
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Fed compost tea on Wednesday without added Bio Pk. Plain water all following feedings. Did a light defoliation of some older fan leaves which has let more light in around the main stem. I have used soft ties to stake her into the ground, this helps to prevent her from poking back out of the substrate once I bury the stem. I have buried her up to the first node. I’m so far very happy with how she has been growing. She is very healthy looking currently.
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@Dengued
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Day 49..moved the plants last week so they have more room. Stretch is slowing down and starting to bush out with loads of bud sites. No signs of any deficiencies yet, even though only feeding organic spirulina for last month.
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👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrfication process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work
Processing
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@Reaper
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The pictures and video are the start from week 2 flowering, the light is an apollo 10 full spectrum, plants vegged for only 3 weeks. if i veg longer i feel its a waste of time because the buds are very small inside the plants where the light cant reach. purple haze got defoliated during week 2 of flowering (the last 3pictures)
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@Jayvo
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Getting very close to the end now, lowering my night temps has definatley made the buds more dense, will be feeding her nutrients this week and start the flush from next week, unfortunately I’ve just realised the water pump was the case for my reservoir to be heating up, so I’ve probably messed up it’s nutrient intake, so my next runtz muffin run will most probably be a lot better
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She’s mmmm. Aahhh flavours taste like a bit piney but overall has a sweet sherbety taste to her tropical almost fastbuds are the ones to go to for autos (although I’m about to test RQS autos) but if I didn’t have the heat I would of had more flavours but never the less it’s packing some 🔥🔥 buds come a bit pointy slimmer than my other dank nugs and grind out to a lot more than expected she’s a great one I’ll be doing her up again! My girl had a bit of heat stress but recovered so well with some dense frosty pointy nugs! She grew to just about under a meter and had several branches (wish I topped her) great strain to grow fastbuds are amazing She grew fast and branches out nicely! I defoliated twice once just after they began flower and once just before harvest and made the buds swell up nice and fat and dense even for pointy buds! The high is not one to mess with had me staring at fb videos for hours lol but great stuff from fastbuds be sure to grow it again!
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@Phrdvd
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Scusate il ritardo ma la vita di tutti i giorni, è frenetica in questo periodo! Ma per le mie piccoline il tempo lo trovo! Ho installato la sacca di co2, devo dire che il suo lavoro lo ha fatto! ha salvato le piante dal caldo eccessivo! E sono cresciute come se fossero sempre alla temperatura ideale anche se all'interno la temperatura fissa è 28.8°! Speravo di riuscire a raccoglierle tutte più o meno lo stesso periodo ma questa settimana inizio il flush della diesel e forzo la fine delle bubble gum! Le piante sono cariche di terpeni! Buona fumata a tutti 420
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Week has been going well. Had a really bad underwatering while I was unable to look after the plant, which stunted it for a few days sadly. Started to LST her as u can see on the video But other than that, its looking good and growing fine
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Processing
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D57/F13 - 27/05/23 - Added sunset and sunrise (only red lights for 1,5 hours at the start and 1,5 at the end) D58/F14 - 28/05/23 - I set up my AFD (see picture). I find a way to feed her automaticly when I 'll be out, Every day I start the pump for 30 sec (about) to give her 2 liters of nutes with my AFS (Automatic Feeding System) D59/F15 - 29/05/23 - Automatic feeding D60/F16 - 30/05/23 - Automatic feeding D61/F17 - 31/05/23 - Automatic feeding D62/F18 - 01/06/23 - Automatic feeding D63/F19 - 02/06/23 - I'm back, Nora looks ok, automatic feeding works. A little bit of problem with timelaps framing, but it's ok, I've got all info I need. EC 0.9 and pH 6.5
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The ladys got topped a few days ago. They are still doin fine. My Favorite so far is pheno #2
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Room setup rundown, examples of bud, et al in pictures... Seedlings/Clones lights - Viparspectra XS1500. Vege lights - Mars Hydro FC-4800 Flower Lights - 650w 3400K 1900umol/s PAR, (3) 226w DIY 2900K 630umol/s PAR (678w and 1890umol/s), Substrate - 50/50 sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite in 5-gallon pots Climate Control - Luckily, the lights, winter and normal furnace use all equate to a decent temperature, though a bit on colder side in in vege phase, sadly. Humidifier is needed early and later a dehumidifier is needed when canopy develops. I only grow in the winter months. Irrigation - do not use the emitters in this diary. They suck a big fat dick to skip a line to suck a bigger dick. Use the pressure compensating type. https://growdiaries.com/diaries/232811-strawberry-cookies-og-r1-cherry-diesel-bbgs-ego-epg-ebg-grow-journal-by-001100010010011110/week/1366923 -- use something similar to those. They come in different shapes, too. Basic process The little light takes care of seedlings in 2.5" wide seedling pots until first up-pot. The 1-gallon pots fit well under the FC4800 in a 4x4 tent until day 21 after sprout. I plant 150% or more of what i need, so i can kill the weak without concern. The goal is for every plant that makes it to the 5-gallon up-pot being capable of producing a minimum of 160 grams with a maximum of a 35-40 day vegetative phase. Third up-pot is into 5-gallon nursery pots and now under the 3 DIY lights and the 650W light in the big tent for a couple more weeks of vege. An irrigation system in the big tent saves a lot of time. One scrog for training and another for support, just in case. Reverting back to a more systematic approach to canopy composition moving forward. About 2.3 colas per sq ft and 8 primary colas per plant. Yields were similar when over-crowding and being less systematic, but the proportion of less dense nugs is greater and trim time is needlessly elevated because of that fact. I was very controlling about this the first couple years but got away from it for far too long at this point. Drying / Curing - Into mesh racks for 9 days. I wet trim and cut down to similarly sized buds for even drying. Temps are controlled around 68F and RH is set to 60%. Then into some 5-gallon buckets with gamma seal lids and (3) 2-way 67g boveda humidipaks (58% or 62%) in each bucket - 1 at bottom, 2 at top. Temp/RH probe confirms that they hold the RH steady at 60-63%. Cost - 0.33 cents (USD) per gram produced. This includes an accelerated depreciation expense for all equipment used, fertilizer, water, electricity for all equipment used, new filters and other yearly purchases - bti, ph strips, sticky traps, etc. I'm a finance guy, so these numbers are comprehensively accurate and purposely err slightly on high side of cost. The only facet not included is the cost of my labor.
Processing
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They got huge. Nice green leaves and smell great. I bend the fan leaves a little to get more light in the canopy. They love the nutes. We having a great time! Transplanted 3 to 3 gallons pots. They love the air. Topped(fim’d) one. She getting lanky but I feel she’ll snap back strong.
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@Sunofa420
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Gloomy outside but the plant is showing signs of pistils