More mistakes made (I'm so worried I'm killing them), but trying to tone everything down to recover. I'm staying with 25% of nutes for now Smell has increased. My whole basement has a very green "Plant" smell. It's less earthy now and more green. First floor only smells on occasion... No carbon filter used yet... Day 50 July 16 raised lights (saw a lot of light burn) and reduced power to 75%. fed 800ml water each (saw a bit of nutrient burn, slowing it down a bit) Day 52 July 18 #2 1100ml to each 2.5ml calmag, 2.5ml micro, 1.25ml gro, 3.75ml per gallon. pH meter issues 1L fed to each Day 54 July 20 fed each 1l of water Day 55 July 21 nut made 2.5ml calmag, 2.5ml micro, 1.25ml gro, 3.75ml bloom 6.36ph ppm 490 fed 1L each

Dia 126, 5a semana de floración se ven muy sanas y estan empezando a formarse los cogollos, la floración va un poco lenta, se puede ver la 1051 y la Chocolate Wafflez ya estan llenas de resina , la Glow Starz y la White Noise siguen generando cogollo, hemos visto algunas orugas que nos han sorprendido ya que no han habido lluvias todavia y las plantas estaban protegidas, pero supongo que las bajas temperaturas generan las orugas

Una semana mas me quedo sorprendido de lo rapido que ha vuelto a ser una selva...🤣 Tube que doblar la mas alta de la mesa A porque tocaba el foco, se recupera bien, pero no entiendo que a dia de hoy sigan creciendo en altura, porque y es demasiado i me quedo sin espacio. He incrementado el riego de tres fases y de 3’ a 5’ para ver si la misma velocidad ee crecimento lo hace en floración.

I can only say that the rate of growth im getting is amazing. Out of all three of the purple punch seems to have the most potent smell I am not sure if it's just the genetics or if it's what I'm feeding but we will see once the other start to develop. Touching the purple punch stem leaves a strong smell on the fingers and giving the bud small pinch smells strongly of grape chapstick. Stay tuned 😜

The girls have survived another week ❤️ I did a light defoliation and have been monitoring the RH closely. We have had a very damp week here, and the RH kept climbing and had my fan working hard. They are starting to plump up and fill in 😋. They have also started to slow their drinking habits, instead of watering every three days, it has moved to every 4 now. Just a couple of weeks left, I think I will be harvesting these over Christmas 🎄, and will have some great bud ready for the new year! 🎉🎊🍾

some accidental HST out of LST that lead to a stem break :-( Otherwise pretty happy with progress but not sure if I can amp up my nutrients to enhance more growth

W

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

07/24/2020 She is flowering, I like her so far not much smell But it is early. Looking like they might be spear like COLAS !

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Day 71 - Starting week 11 and this is most likely her last week, she might only make it till this weekend. She’s definitely plumped up and I haven’t seen a single clear trich anywhere, she’s about 90-10 milky to amber so I’d like her to get to about 25% amber before chopping. Gave her the last drink of water tonight and just letting her dry up from now until chop day. Day 73 - Just waiting another day or two for her to finish drying up and then she’ll get the chop. Leaves are really faded now and it’s making her flower colors pop. Pictures really don’t do any justice. Day 74 - Looks like I’m gonna give this girl another day or two before chopping, she doesn’t quite have the amber trichs I’m looking for yet.

Grüße Growmies wir sind am ende der Reise angekommen!! WOW diese Farben und Harz bessatz kombiniert mit den Terpenen Bombe ist dieses Jahr für mich eine schönste Pflanzen. Selbst Thripse am Anfang der Blüte hat sie super verkraftet! Sie hatte am Freitag das letzte mal Dünger bekommen und am Samstag so wie Sonntag nur Leitungswasser bekommen. Ab Montag habe ich sie nicht mehr gegossen und 3 tage bis zur Ernte austrocknen lassen. Vom Anfang bis Ende war das ein Unkomplizierter der Grow mit super Ergebnissen und dass von Keimung bis Ernte in 63 Tagen ! Dank EPN(Krumme-Gurken)Mykoriza&Trichoderma Mischung mit Canna Terra Professional Plus Erde hatte ich ein aktives Bodenleben & Rhizosphäre das die Nährstoffe ausreichend verarbeiten konnte trank sie zur Spitzen Zeit in 24std 3l Wasser mit leichter/normaler Dünger dosis bei einem 6,2 PH wert. Zusammengefasst: Ein pflegeleichter Strain der sehr gut mit LST zu steuern ist und auf Temperatur Schwankungen von 10C°+/-zwischen Tag und Nacht in meinem Fall: 19std tagphase 27-28C°/40%-50% Luftfeuchtigkeit, 5std Nachtphase 17-18C°45%-55% Luftfeuchtigkeit mit leuchteten Lila Blüten Spitzen und massiver Harz Entwicklung reagiert um dass ganze noch mit neon Orangen Pistillen abgerundet. Bei ca. 950-1000 ppfd an der Spitze und ca 800- 850 ppfd an den unteren Blüten so wie die letzten 2 Wochen 2x 660nm Deep red Adlite leisten tiefer gehängt auf 15cm Abstand. Was deutlich den Harz bessatz verstärkt hat und die Blüten nochmal haben anschwellen lassen.

Welcome to week 14 of my grow diary. What can I say? The plant is growing like weed. It's getting bigger and bushier from week to week. I can't complain about the weather except that I have to water her so much every day😂 See you next week ✌️

Bended the main bud to the side so it wouldnt touch the light Had to attach string to a lot of branches because they had bend down due to the weight Did not lollipop at all - first run ever

Hi liebe Freunde des Grow sports 😁 ich hoffe euch geht es allen gut, mir auf jeden Fall (bin ein grower mir scheint immer die Sonne aus dem arsch) 😂. So zum wesentlichen die Woche war ganz OK am 23.04 und am 24.04.22 war nur beobachten am 25.04.22 gab es Wasser (Ph 6,5) mit Nährstoffen + topping (stecki für einen Kumpel machen) für die Lady die noch im 3,6 L Topf steht sie soll ja in den garten aber hab das Gewächshaus noch nicht vorbereitet sprich gereinigt und aus geräumt (ich hab keine lust) muss jetzt aber mal am we anfangen. Am 26.04.22 gab es dann für die 4 Ladys im 8 L Topf Wasser (Ph, 6,5) ohne Nahrung und ich habe sie alle samt getoppt und schon mal die Stäbe für den Tomaten ring rein gesteckt dann verletze ich die Wurzeln nicht wenn sie am Topf-Rand ankommen. 27.04.22 heute habe ich alle Pflanzen in eine T-Form gebracht sprich einen mainfold gebildet (korregiert mich wenn ich falsch liege, und es doch nur main-lining ist, oder ist das sogar das selbe? 🙄😲😰) leider sind mir an 2 Ladys die Äste beim biegen leicht ein gerissen was die Ladys aber nicht sonderlich beeindruckt hat sie laufen einfach weiter also mache ich mir vorerst keine sorgen bin aber etwas vorsichtiger beim nächsten topping und biegen. Am 28.04 und 29.04.22 war nur beobachten Euch allen wie immer ein schönes Wochenende und Mega viel Ertrag bei euren Projekten......

Hello guys, I fixed my RH problems. I now water them 1,5L every 2-3 days, the Shimos seems to still be thristy ! I did a light defoliation, then flipped into 12/12 after 32 days of vegetative stage. This will be interesting 😍 Have a nice day, see ya next week !

An in to soil she and her sister testers go, i know that for know everything looks the same , apart from the photos, but this will start changing with them growing. For now all of them are growing pretty much the same and now that they move in to soil and start feedings they will start showing the phenotype and genetic differences, but for now all looking great , healthy and strong af!!! Haded a intro video from seed in to now, including how i transplant and what i use wen doing it so, and from here the moon is no limit for this babes i believe , so stay tuned as this testers they promise to be a interesting ride <3 <3 <3 She is moving fast and from all the tallest so far <3 <3 <3 need to keep this one under close attention <3 <3 <3 As always thank you all for stoping by and for supporting me on this journey, i am super passion about growing and fell blessed to have you all with me on this new journey <3 <3 <3 Genetics - Fast Buds Tester 08 09 10 11 Ligth - LUMATEK ZEUS 465 COMPACT PRO 
Food - APTUS HOLLAND #aptus #aptusplanttech #aptusgang #aptusfamily #aptustrueplantscience #inbalancewithnature #trueplantscience #fastbuds #dogdoctorofficial #growerslove With true love comes happiness <3 <3 <3 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so <3 <3 <3 
All info and full product details can be find in can find @ https://2fast4buds.com/ wen released 

https://aptus-holland.com/
 
https://autopot.co.uk/ 

https://lumatek-lighting.com/ <3 <3 <3 Growers love to you all <3 <3 <3

July 12: Lemon Cream Kush is looking good and fully recovered from me breaking a stem a couple weeks ago. Replaced barley (which was sprouting) with malted barley as the top dressing. Should use malted barley which means it has already been sprouted. I mix it with Power Bloom at 1:1 and use as a top dressing. July 14: everybody got an Epsom salts foliar spray which they seemed to like. July 18: she looks great and starting force flowering tonight.