This week I am going through and pulling the large fan leaves off , she is a slow flowering plant so I'm just doing my best to be patient with her !!! A true gem with an unique structure !!! I think this girl is gonna be a 10 week flower , she is just starting to get smaller flower spots . Still a beast !! Added a CO2 bag directly above the canopy , added a 150 watt "blurple" light above GG#4 S1( number 2) More picture notrs and videos to follow !!

Beginning of Week 2, Day 8 everything is looking good. Auto OG berry seeds 3/3 did not sprout. Dead seeds. everything else came within 2 Days after soil plantin Day 9 We noticed some weird leaf spots. Maybe ph off... we can' treat ph yet. Added low dose Grow nutes 1ml/l to at least counteract the water ph a bit. They grow super fast and the soil was a 50/50 mix with light soil so We figured maybe a few nutes couldn't harm them. Transplanting will be in about 4 Days. Day 11 some spots on the first real leaves , probably just burnt, because of myco powder on the leaves on Day 4... Still growing fast. Lamp was raised to 30 cm. we would like to have a bit more stretch.. They also have a bit too much water imho, but we had to water one time before transplanting, which would be the 12th or 13th day. Only minor problems so far, if any:) Day 13 today we transplanted the plants into their final 5l containers. roots are looking amazing. mix is 75% composana and 25% lightmix. we also mixed more myko's in the soil around the old rootball about 1/3 up and topped off with soil. watered about 1.5l per 5l pot, ph'd water about 6.4 We are now gone over the weekend, and raised the lamps to about 40cm. monday new picures. they were looking real good the next morning after transplant and kept growing. We will see if everything is fine on monday when we get back. hopefully lots of new healthy growth.. we had to add about 5ml ph- (phosphoric acid 10%) to 10l tap water to get ph from 7.8 to about 6.4. no fert was added. only canna magnesium. hopefully the cheapo ph meter worked. next week topping will be happening between Day 18 and 21

This week has gone fine nothing much to report really flower sites are stacking up nice. Trichomes are making an appearance and some nice grapefruit peel smell only subtle but it’s starting to develop. 👍🏼

Apple fritter and wilson! Zero are 7 weeks from popping the seed's in ro water ph to 6.2 and mystery mix, Geist grow are 4 weeks from popping the seed's same process as above. Blumat watering system 3x3 area for growing 4 plants in 4 10gallon fabric pots in living soil top feed with compost tea and foliage spray (LABS) lactic acid bacteria. 2 x TS1000 and I use pod tech to feed my worms with down to earth amendments.

Smiling this is going great they are getting chunky

The pictures speaking for themselves...added some plants that would go to seed after being cross bred with Khalifa Kush. This week onward the girls would be fed black strap molasses for taste and big bud.

The plants streched a lot this week! The flowering has started 😎 I made a last defoliation to give some light to the lower buds. I started to give some BioBloom. It's impressive how much these plants must drink, this is the first time I have to water every day! Plants heights at the end of the week : ------------------------------------------- Gorilla Cookies : 90cm Purple Lemonade : 69.5cm Wedding Cheesecake : 89cm

Switched over to cha Ching and defoliate a bit more

I did low stress training on the girl nice clean smoke with a citrus taste overall happy results with stain

I decided to use LST on Californian snow and no touchies ( maybe a little ) on West Coast OG. Californian Snow is bigger. They both look healthy but i am a bit worried about leaf colours ( is visible on videos), thinking of nutrient overdose.

Will be cloning them this week. They are still suffering with trips attack. They still on 18/6, 9 of sunlight and 9 of 300w. Will be transplanting the gorillas soon. Transplanted them all last week, the white widow is in a 40l pot, Anandamida and blue dream on a 20l and Bruce Lemon Diesel on a 29l pot.

144v Lux in tenebris lucet. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth. She just doesn't want to grow vertically any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence over another. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. 9 To get the closest possible NPK ratio of 1-3-2 in 5 gallons of water: Add 2 tsp of the 7-4-5 Grow fertilizer Add 3 tsp of the 3-12-12 Bloom fertilizer Calcium can interact negatively with phosphorus and sulfur, add your Cal-Mag supplement to the water first if needed.

- DAY 71 (13/08) I have defoliated most of the burnt leaves. In the evening I sprayed the mix of neem oil (neem oil, water, potassium soap and citric acid). So, I am continuing with the washing of the roots. The plant visibly needs nitrogen, for the next irrigation I will go back to feeding. This time hoping to be able to feed without problems and that the burns on the leaves will not return. The girl is growing out of all proportion. Within the next 2 weeks the hormones that will send her into bloom should be triggered. Everything that I will do relevant in the days of this week I will update it here in Week Comment. I am open to advice, I would be happy if you comment with what you would do in my place. - DAY 75 (17/08) FEEDING So, from now on I will feed with half tap water and half distilled. I removed the lemon juice by replacing it with BioBizz PH Down. The starting water should be less loaded with calcium and potassium now. I irrigated 3 liter of water with: - 1.2 ml Micro - 0.6 ml Grow - 0.6 ml Bloom - DAY 76 (18/08) I sprayed the mix of neem oil (neem oil, water, potassium soap and citric acid). Day/night air temperature on average for this week: Day 28-36 °C. Night 18-24 °C.

Please like and follow my diary and check out my others!! Would appreciate the support🙏 Ok guys week 4 starting now and these girls have gotten all bushy and lushy!! I am just now setting up and starting to play around with time lapses lol here are my tester videos to start. Any pointers and tips would be greatly appreciated👏 Soo the girls are doing great done a little lst and neem oil applied last night for pest prevention I wanted to bend down their main stems and do a little hst but unfortunately their main stemsare waaaay to thick for it, I'll add some pics later Ok and as for feeding we are following the advanced nutrients feeding schedule I have measured EC and PPM this time but i need to go find my notes will add it into this weeks diary Ok that's it for now I've got another time lapse running so I'll add that one later today too!

Day 56: nutrients like plan Last feeding Pictures are taken on day 56 --------------------------------------------- I found some mold, i cutted 1 hole branch and 2 buds, take a look at the last 3 pics(cutted about 2.5 cm around the mold)😑 increased air circualtion too. She is the only one with mold issues 🤔 By the way she develops super dense buds and is gettig some colour😎👍 Happy growing 🍧🌱

El cambio de fotoperiodo para el inicio de floración fue el día 18 de la semana anterior. Desde ese momento de han hecho riegos con vegetativo y floración. Generalmente en 3°o 4° semana de floración elimino el vegetativo. También se a regado estimulante de floración delta 9 de manera foliar aprox cada 10 días. Recordar que doy 1 riego de fertilizante cada dos de agua sin fertilizantes por semana, donde en los riegos sin fertilizantes añado microorganismos, enzimas y calmag.