Bin von dieser vitalen schönheit mehr als überzeugt. Ihr parfüm last dir instant ein zelt in der hose wachsen😜😅🤷‍♂️ und ihr aussehn ist auch nicht zu verachten. Bin gespannt wo das noch hinführt mit uns beide🙃😅😅 Die besten und vitalsten stecklinge gibts wie immer hier bei ROOTS-FARMS. the best in austria and maybe in europe

The start was easy as it gets just add water the first 20 days and LST every day. When i saw some of the lower leaves start to change color that's when i started to add nuits. after that it was just following the instructions foxfarm already had laid out for me. I cut back by half in the start of my feeds but by the end of my grow I was at full strength. Testing your run off is key. Cropking send me great seeds and genetics is a great foundation and starting point. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I was very happy I got almost 5 ounces off one plant.

Smells very fruity and Sweet. Very dense trichomes. Very dark and frosty buds

Weekly update for Fantasy Feast #5 — and unfortunately, it’s her last one. The powdery mildew never fully left this pheno, even after airflow adjustments and leaf removal. To protect the rest of the tent, I made the call to remove her today. This update covers: • What the mildew looked like this week • Why I decided on an emergency harvest • How I removed the plant safely • What parts are salvageable and what gets thrown away • How the rest of the tent is doing after the removal Rest of grow information in week 33

Thank you to all that have helped me along this journey. All of the answers, tips, comments, likes, and other diaries have been so very motivating to me. I originally started this diary only for my own reference but I'm so pleased to have learned that others have found it helpful or interesting, for whatever reason. If you're curious about equipment see the germination page and if you have questions feel free to drop me a line. So, without further ado: Jan 19 Day 105 Harvest day! 🎉🎉 Not really knowing how to tackle the situation, I started by cutting all of the fan leaves I was able to reach. Then, I cut each branch working from the perimeter inward - which due to the way she grew, was essentially the same as working from the bottom branches of the meristem to the top. Each branch was cut, cleaned, and handled individually before moving on to the next. Decided to wet-trim most of the branches, leaving 4 fairly untouched (only fan leaves were removed). Will be interested to see the differences, if any. They're all drying/hanging near the grow tent ~45%RH, 72F (22C). It isn't completely dark though, as some light is escaping the tent into the closet where they are hanging. I'm hoping this isn't terrible but I'll be keeping my eye on them. The process took the better part of an evening but I was cautiously learning, taking breaks, and generally being fairly slow. I'm sure I'll be faster and more confident next time. Jan 27 Day 113 Drying is complete, I think. Branches were hung and dried for 8 days in a consistent 68F (20C) 40% RH. They were determined to be dried after hearing a snap when bending (not breaking) large stems and buds felt dry to touch. Sugar leaves bordering on crispy while buds still had some give / fluffiness. The flowers from previously manicured branches were relatively easily plucked. However, the dry trimming process for the unmanicured branches proved to be a bit of a pain. They have been placed in a pyrex container to cure. I'm hoping flavors and aromas that are currently lacking will develop in time. 🤞 --- Stats --- Veg time: ~45 days. Flowering time: ~60 days. Height ~18in., ~46cm. Main Bud Length: ~9in., 23cm. Harvested 16 Hangable branches and a few extra medium/small buds. Bud Wet Weight, with stems: 242g, ~8.5oz. Larf/Popcorn Sugar-leaf Wet Weight (not counted above): 18g, ~0.6oz. Leaf/Waste Wet Weight: 38g, ~1.3oz. Drying time: 8 days. Dried Weight with Stems: 70g, ~2oz. Trimmed and Dried Total Bud Weight: 50g, ~1.75oz. --- Thoughts in hindsight --- Firstly, I can't believe I haven't tried growing sooner. So rewarding in so many ways! My initial hope was to harvest an oz., so I am obviously quite happy we could surpass that mark by a good margin. This is a testament to the plant more than me of course, as I was completely inexperienced and was purposefully as hands-off as I could be comfortable with throughout her growth. I can only imagine things will improve with time. Paper-towel germination seems to be prone to more stress for myself and arguably the seedling as well. Floating in 1% H2O2 solution seems to be ideal for me. I made bad soil choices. This mixture seemed to be too dense, leading to some watering/strangulation issues mid-growth. My 2nd grow consisting of mostly coco coir seems healthier and seems easier to maintain proper hydration. Coco might also be reusable while this soil definitely seems spent now. I didn't respect pH at first and initial testing was eye-opening. That said, after simply testing water and fertilizer readings a few times, I gradually felt more comfortable with guestimating during most feedings, only testing sporadically later in her life cycle. This seemed to be fine and was a bit of a relief after early testing proved tedious every feed. I've been happy with Better-Gro orchid fertilizer. This is of course contrary to most advice, which I admit is probably for good reason. That said though, I didn't notice any major toxicities or deficiencies during her grow. So, these products seem to have worked for me and are so much more affordable than cannabis-specific fertilizers. I was quite weary about not having cal-mag, but this never seemed to be an issue in this particular case. However, I'll be keeping a similar eye on my 2nd grow in coco, which I understand may need it. Training and pruning is important. This plant was quite bushy and wild likely resulting in quite a bit of unnecessary larf/popcorn. Not to mention the additional time needed to trim when harvesting. Also regarding training, pipe cleaners can leave noticeable cuts in the stem they hold. Thickly coated flexible garden wire would likely be ideal. I need to get a loupe or magnifying attachment for the phone. Digital zoom with shaky hands is not great for checking trichomes and my 3x magnifying glass just doesn't cut it. I cannot speak toward potency or yield without more experience, but simply for the sake of a greener hue, I think I could've harvested her a week earlier. Because I left a few branches untended during dry, I was able to experience both the wet and dry trimming processes. Unless keeping leaves for extra humidity during drying, I seem to prefer wet trimming as the still supple leaves were easier to remove with less bud handling. I'll add more thoughts if/when they come. Thank you again for stopping by! 👋

bueno se hizo una por primera vez una cosecha por partes, como indicamos en el post anterior, se cosecho los cogollos donde la luz pegaba mas al parecer y estaban mas desarrollados, la cosecha fue con tricomas blancos tendiendo a transparentes con pocos ambar, en opinion ya luego de una semanas y una segunda cosecha, es que cosechamos pronto por temor al pasarnos al ser primera vez, entonces posiblemente nos apresuramos un poco ligeramente o confundimos los tricomas tendiendo a ser transparente por los blancos que es lo que indica la teoria el punto de corte, pero no nso quejamos quedo genial! subiremos el segundo punto de corte luego de 2 semanas . LAS ULTIMAS FOTOS LAS DE LAS 2 SEMANAS MAS 2DO CORTE.

Hella dear growmies! 😁 Our little Hella girl is sooo pretty, sigh!!! ❤️ I spray the babies with Fast Plants Spray every 3 days, dim down the LED until they are dry again.. 💦 It gives them a lot of attention and nutrients until they have grown a sufficient root system. DAY 9 Watered for the first time 💧 DAY 11 Watered with nematodes 🐛 just 100ml of water each plant because the soil was still damp. Thanks APTUS Holland for the amazing goodie pack, I'm already having lots of fun with the product line!! 😍💚 You guys rock! __________________________________________________________________________________ HELLA JELLY SATIVA (30% INDICA 70% SATIVA) | AVG. THC 26-30% | HIGHLY UNIFORM | EASY TO GROW, VIGOROUS HYBRID BLUE COTTON CANDY | STRAWBERRIES | GRAPES FLOWERING TIME 45 DAYS Want a productive, fast flowering strain with a high THC and covered in sparkly trichomes? Then this winner from our 2019 Phenotype Mega-Hunt is for you. A sativa strain with the growth habits of an Indica, Hella Jelly gives you faster flowering with sturdier structure, the best of both worlds! This fruity cotton candy terpene strain will delight extractors or look amazing in the jar. Effects are strong but not debilitating, plus test results found a bit of CBG and CBD for added intrigue. Hella Jelly is a great performer in all growing environments, but particularly ideal for a quick turn or climates with earlier fall weather. https://humboldtseedcompany.com/hellajelly/ ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Setup: 140x70x200 cm Spiderfarmer tent 2x Monkey 16W fans (not oscillating) 1x Secret Jardin 30W 1x box fan 50W oscillating (on lowest level) LED Full Spectrum 320W AGLEX AGL-320W-MA 5,6 kg foldable, dimmable 864 pieces Samsung LH301H 864umol/s 2,7umol/J full spectrum white + RED 660nm + IR 740nm wavelength range 380-780nm covering 3x4ft APTUS Holland - https://aptus-holland.com 💚 Green Buzz Nutrients https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ 💚 ❗ Use code GD42025 for generous 25% discount (for orders of minimum 75€) Biobizz Lightmix + coco + wormcastings + perlite Carbon Active Granulate Filter 125/360 cm³/h PrimaKlima exhaust EC 125-400/240 cm³/h

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Buenas noches familia, de nuevo actualizamos el diario, y acabamos la cuarta semana de floración, vaya brazos laterales que están tirando, se van a poner hermosas, se las ve sanas y vigorosas, nota mucho la forma sativa de sus hojas así que veremos lo que tardan en florecer. Ph controlado a 6,5 y humedad por debajo de 45% not bad las condiciones temperaturas mínimas de 20 y maximas de 27,5 Grados. Al atar las puntas los brazos tendieron a ir a la luz y gracias a eso la planta está tomando la forma de la esquina.

Harvesting during week 12 flower, they took so long because the mistakes i made during the grow, dont forget when u make mistakes like mine they need longer to finish flower, usually +- 2 weeks Biggest mistakes were taking too long to transfer my ladys in the rdwc system (sort of rootbound?, check photo's) and burning my roots at week 3 of flower because of this they werent be able to take any nutrients in my opinion. Although this happened, im happy with the grow, it was my first rdwc grow and happy with the results!! I have tons of lil tops but its still good quality and they add up to a total of 580 grams!! ( 360G right plant and 220g from the plant on the left Definitely going for another round, this strain has alot of potential! Thanks for following my grow and hope you can learn from my mistakes or techniques that did work out ;) Hope to see you on my next diary, feel free to ask questions and/or give suggestions/tips. Cheers mates

This girl got delayed in flowering due to the neighbors outdoor lights. Didn't start flowering and it was coming to the end of September (time for early harvest for some outdoor varieties), so I was worried. Almost quit on her all together since she was not kicking into flowering. As a last ditch effort to stress into flowering I cut about half of the branches off. That worked and she finally kicking in and started flowering as September ended. She slowly got into flowering and the developing flowers looked nice. I used Bloom booster and Sweet and sticky to enhance flavor and flower. Curious to see how the end flower comes out. Colas didn't get super fat but looks quality. Should get around 2.5 ounces Dry I would guess. For an outdoor plant that is not that good but all things considered I am happy! I am glad I found this site so I can more accurately log my grows, and I will only be growing seeds from seed banks now so I will have the legit strain and information beforehand. Will update this harvest full when initial hanging is done in 10 days and I jar it all up. Cheers and here is the next harvest 😎

When the lights are off I will post another video so the green is easy to see!

Venga familia que ya viene la cosecha de estas Punch Pie de RoyalQueenSeeds , que ganas que tenia ya de darles machetazo. No veas que pinta que tienen estas plantas. Las flores aparte se ven bien resinosas. a sido una genética con la que disfruté mucho cultivarla, es algo complicada cultivarla pero merece la pena si eres cultivador con experiencia no te será problema cosechar. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

I took a ton of fan leaves off and you can't even tell! 😃 they are beast❗

Well, well, well, well, for being my very first exprerience in indoors i've seen it very easy, the results were not spectacular, but they are /- what i was expecting. For being the first i think it ended up very well and i have learned too much. I'm happy with de decision of growing auto strains and 1 euro seeds to do my incursion to indoors. For initiating, auto strains are an excelent choice as they don't need too many care to grow them. If you leave them, you will have a good plant, if you expend a bit of time on them (just a bit), they can became awesome plants. Now i'm going to test with photo-period strains, yesterday night the cotyledeons of 2 Dinafem Gorilla Glue and 1 Strain Hunters Money Maker were out, the other Money is still in. Soon i will start this Gorilla Vs. Money Diary (with better photo equipment and lights) . Green Cheers to everyone!!!!! ***** Bueno para ser mi primera experiencia con un armario en indoor lo he visto bastante sencillo, los resultados no son espectaculares, pero si están dentro de mis cábalas. Para haber sido la primera yo diría que ha ido bastante bien y he aprendido un montón. Me alegro haber escogido una genética auto y unas semillas de 1 euro para haber hecho la primera prueba. Para iniciarse las genéticas auto son excelente pues no necesitan de cuidados ni control de tiempos. Si las dejas, te saldrán como el breeder haya decidido desarrollar su genética, si las cuidas un poco (no mucho) te darán mejores resultados. Para mi ha sido una buena iniciación, ahora voy a probar con foto-dependientes, ayer noche salieron los cotiledones de 2 Gorilla Glue de Dinafem y 1 de una Money Maker de Strain Hunters, la otra money aún no ha salido. Pronto iniciaré el diario Gorilla Vs Money (con mejor equipo de fotografía e iluminación) - Saludos a todos!!000

Let the flushing begin! Week 8 went well, this girl packed on the last of her weight and density. She's showing more red hairs and she's got a 60/40 mix of clear/cloudy trichomes.

Stretch ist jetzt im vollem gange Bei der Jehova auch schon beinahe zusende Die Acid Snow ist jetzt dabei. Die Pflanzen sehen alle aus als wären sie getoppt worden. Wurde aber keine!!!!