These girls are still bulking up but the trichs are still not fully cloudy, I'll give them another week or so. They are becoming heavy now and the branches are starting to lean so I might have to add some support soon

Vamos familia, actualizamos la tercera semana de floración de estas Black Rainbow de Seedstockers, salieron las 3 de 3, 100% ratio éxito. Aplicamos varios productos de Agrobeta, que son increíbles para aportar una buena alimentación a las plantas. Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos dentro de la etapa de floración. La tierra utilizada es al mix top crop, por cambiar. De 3 ejemplares seleccioné los 2 mejores para completar el indoor y trasplanté directamente a macetas de 7 litros, cambien el fotoperiodo a 12/12 y aplique una buena poda de ramas bajas, se ven bien sanas las plantas, tienen un buen color y progresan a muy buen ritmo por el momento, ya empezaron a formarse las flores. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Setup is onpoint😍

Première croissance SOG 20 one bud white gorilla haze 3 semaines de légumes et 10 semaines de 12/12 poids humide 1211G poids sec 270G. C'est carrément un truc de nuit car récolter a 40% nuageux 60%Ambrés . Bonne fumer douce mais frappante effet qui commence léger et monte pour arriver un stade canapé🦍. Pas déçu de certe souche actuellement à la recherche d'une autre variétés de gorilla si certains growers à des idées je suis preneur. LoveUnityAndPeace🌍

Tag 96: Schön bunt ist die Runtz geworden die Trichome sehen auch schon gut aus, ich denke am Wochenende werde ich sie ernten. Ging auf jeden Fall schneller als erwartet.

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (LIME GREEN CHLOROSIS) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Come walk in the enchanted forest.

The Watermelon Candy F1 Hybrid is a real beast... look how beautiful it is, what a flower with a long shape, maturation and very fast growth despite all this quantity of hemp and flower. Super. THERE are mini brunches everywhere and I've had tons of them. The maturation started very early, I had also noticed this on the F1 plants of RQS, very often these ultra fast flowering girls start to put out red pistils when you don't expect it but that's the type of rapid maturation of these plants. I'll tell you again about doing the math. Problem: a Watermelon candi from seed to harvest takes about two months, how many cycles of watermelon candy can you make in a year which, I remind you, lasts 12 months? And how many cycles can you do with the average autoflowering that lasts 3 months? And how many with photoperiodic ones that last even longer? If it doesn't seem like much, learn to count. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, big congratulations to Zammi. https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10666-zamnesia-seeds-watermelon-candy-f1-automatic.html Video Reel Coming soon on Sunday Food by Plagron https://plagron.com/en Light www.viparspectra.com/ Tent & Air www.secretjardin.com Music of the week www.radionula.com +++ 432 hz frequencies to keep in line my Girls to Gaia. Site Description ZAMNESIA SEEDS - WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC: BUDS BURSTING WITH FLAVOR If you've been looking for a flavorful strain with superb genetics that's effortless to cultivate, the hunt is over. Thanks to reliable F1 hybrid genetics, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic showcases the highest degree of productivity and efficiency. This strain takes everything you know and love about the original, and packages it in a plant with even greater potential. GROWING WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC Derived from Watermelon, Candy Kush, and ruderalis, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is a finely tuned medley of genetics. This cultivar is fast to flourish and reliable to grow, no matter where you choose to grow. Taking just 9–10 weeks from germination to harvest, she provides a uniform growing experience culminating in a huge haul of buds for her size. Reaching heights of 65–80cm, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic stays pretty grounded, making her perfect for smaller growing areas where space is a commodity. It also means you can fit more plants in if you have the room! Once ready to yield, growers will see a return of 400–450g/m² indoors and up to 100g/plant outdoors. Moreover, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is highly resistant to pests and disease, making it an ideal strain for newcomers and fans of low-maintenance cultivation. AROMAS, FLAVORS, AND EFFECTS OF WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC If we haven't already sold you on the power of F1 hybrid genetics, the proof is in the pudding. Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is teaming with terpenes and cannabinoids, making for a lively high coupled with huge flavors. Just one hit is all it takes to sample rich fruitiness mixed with sweet candies and a slight earthiness to back it up. And with an average THC content of 23%, the effects are euphoric at the start but settle into deep relaxation soon after. Whether you're chilling alone or with friends, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic will see you right. So seeds of all brands, in addition to these great F1 Hybrids and the entire Zamnesia line, fertilizers and everything related to the world of cannabis, you should buy them from the best online store in the sector www.zamnesia.io

welcome to Day 43 29/1/2021 she is looking great and vibrant. no problems at all, that being said if you have any questions drop them below. as always happy growing and keep your stick on the ice

Day 7-9: Had a good environment overall, although the light was probably much too high. I didn't realise until quite late that it should have been 60cm above the seedling, and I had it around 120cm at first, and then 80cm. As a result the stem is a bit stringy. Day 9: I lowered the light to 60cm above the plant, and it won't go any lower. the recommended for this light is 30cm above the canopy, according to this very useful article: https://www.growweedeasy.com/how-far-grow-lights, but it's still in seedling stage and I'm guessing the plant will grow up a bit more, and I can always lower a little bit more. Also it's pretty damn hot, so I don't want to overdo it on the lights. I've been keeping the water consistent and just topped up a little on recommended nutrients (more grow, a little micro, adding a little bloom as it comes closer to flowering). The reason for this is because I want to maintain the consistency of environment and monitor the plant for any signs of unwellness. Because Sativas are sensitive to nutrient burn, I'm being conservative in this respect. The temperature with the light lowered is a steady 26 C, and I'm maintaining the humidity at around 70%. This is pretty good for this strain, as a sativa it likes higher temps and humidity. The water pH is around 5.9, also desirable. I've also been wondering if the plant is getting enough CO2. Is it necessary to buy a measurement device and some CO2 bags? Overall the plant seems very happy and is looking healthy. Day 10: cleaned the inside, added more grow, added more clay pellets since she looks a bit thin and stalky and needs extra support, and there were not many pellets present. Light distance is currently around 60cm. Though it won't go any lower with the straps, I will look at lowering it more with some extra rope as the ideal height will eventually be 30cm for this 250W HPS light. Added more Ph buffer yesterday evening and we're currently sitting around 5.7 ph. I was aiming for 5.8 but this is still acceptable. Temperature is around 25 - 26 C, humidity is around 70%, though I will begin lowering this as she grows. I will probably replace the water sometime this week. Upon further investigation I realised that my water levels were too high, and were possibly suffocating the stem. I reduced water levels by a few cm since I had previously been topping up without realising possible damage. I feel like today is the day that this seedling is finally becoming a plant. She has grown some long roots already. Day 11: I further lowered the light to around 40cm using some extra string. It's not super ideal, but for now it's ok. The plant was falling over it's own weight so I added some extra pellets around it for support and it seems to work. I'm hoping she won't stretch as much now that the light is lowered. The inside fan is still on and on full power to build up extra stem strength and keep temperature down. I'm attempting to keep humidity around 60%, a little lower than before. The temperature is significantly higher with the light lowered, easily maintained by periodically opening the door and leaving in cool air from outside which runs just past the intake fan. I'm slightly concerned about the Monstera Deliciosa plant which is sitting just opposite and above the intake fan. Would this have any effects, positive or negative, on the grow? Google is coming back blank on this.

Repotted into 3 gallon this week.

The feed on this week's post is for the RQS Wedding Cake Auto. The FB And Bruce Banner got 1 tsp of BAS Coconut powder and 2 tsp of molasses. The Wedding Cake also got a small top dressing of 2 tbsp of craft blend a buildaflower. Im not too sure on what's going on with the wedding cake but im letting it ride out.

AAAAh Fastbuds, End of WEEK 11 Beginning of week 3 and shes BIG. The beginning leaves are a biut fucked up but the new ones look great so thats nothing rll that worries me.. had it often on the first few leaves but ittl grow out of that. Everything going great :D

Starting this little diary already a week in. This blackberry started flowering at day 16, I dropped the pot and I guess the shock of that started the change. Stick around to see how she turned out.

Week 2 of flower The plants are healthy and doing good. 2 of the blue zushi where a little short in comparison with the cupcake, so i lifted them up. Tomorrow i will defoliate them and put up a second trellis.

Dear Growers , Over the next weeks, we’re excited to share a very special project with you: Sensi Seeds Supreme Jack F1 Automatic 2025 Release (Flower Week 9-10 and Harvest Time ) With dedication, knowledge, and hands-on practice, we’ll guide you step by step through the journey—watch with us as growth, development, and small wonders unfold before your eyes. Whether you're a beginner or an expert, you are warmly invited to join, ask questions, and share your own experiences along the way! Project Setup & Conditions: • Brand/Manufacturer: Sensi Seeds • Tent: 120cmx60cmx80cm • Light: 2x 200 Watt Full Spectrum • Humidity: 45% • Soil: Narcos Organix Mix • Nutrients: Narcos Products • pH Value: 5.8 A Special Thanks To Sensi Seeds for the amazing collaboration, trust, and generous support in making this project possible. Your contribution is truly appreciated! Congratulations on Your Own Projects! We celebrate your growth, your creativity, and the passion you bring to the table. It’s truly inspiring to witness at Each visit . Stay curious and keep up Growing —we look forward to welcoming you back for the next chapter soon!

Still in flush and she get bigger !

Hello, OK so this girl has been Flushing for 9days and will continue to flush for another 5 before I chop her down 🤟🙌🙏🎉🎊 She looks and smells amazing 👏 so 😍😋👌 will be back to update a harvest