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@Moss420
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Ended up flushing Mumma for about 10 days - got her ppm down real low. Night before harvest I set the timer so the light would not come back on in the morning before I harvested (I've seen people who swear by this and other who say it doesn't do anything but figured it couldn't hurt). At this point the other plants are pretty disappointing compared to Mumma so they aren't getting as much "love" lol.
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💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 21 and she's just killing💀it👌 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm starting to pull her over and do some low stress training 🙃 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈
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MY WEED LOOKS LIKE WEED! It's sticky to the touch. My fingers smell like chocolate and mint and dankness after defol. The trichs are absolutely insane and the flowers are now legit buds. 😍 I know everyone that's done this before is like "... yeah that's how it works." but as this is my first time .. you know.. *fart noise* 👆 Jog on. Having a random fall heat wave this weekend but humidity is steady around 45% during lights and no more than 60% in closed tent with new outtake fan. Staying heavy on the defol to keep problem spots like leaf overlaps and light blockers at bay since the RH is still a few points above where I want it. I've also found that 16 Hour dark periods, in my personal observation with no other experience, seems to have a positive effect on the plants. A few times this week I've had plans at night and had to dark tent it early since I still don't have a timer. It's almost like my plants are fast forwarding through flower with crazy trich and full buds by start of Week 4. Little Danny on the left is way more of a classic structure with 9 long main colas along the outside and smaller sites through the middle. Big Arnold is a super stretched out net weaved nightmare of single bud sites with a 4-5 traditional colas but most of the flowers are very spread along the net, I definitely experimented more with LST on Arnold. I remember looking at them both when I got them and said "I bet little Danny will end up with a higher yield" and if those colas go Superfudge Judy Bloom on me, it just might. Super excited and thanks for stopping by! Will be updating with the mid-week feed ✊ MID-WEEK UPDATE Gave the twins another PH Perfect feeding today with a water chase. The starting to notice the smell in the room and are they ever sticky 😍 Thinking about Backbuilding/Bud Topping, does anyone have any experience with it? Seems like a tried and true method to get a better looking bud. I'd love to experiment and do some side-by-sides for future reference. Also been looking into my next grow, going to try some @Fast_Buds Autos and probably order through UpperCanadaSB, will take any advice on that as well! Thanks for stopping by. Unless anything changes my next update will be week 5 👍
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@Dunk_Junk
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She's clearly not happy. She hasn't been happy for a couple of weeks looking back at past weeks.
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Week six! Day 37 - Photographed and fertigated 5l each Day 39 - Photographed. These plants have realised they have space and are starting to stretch out. Day 42 - Now that I have internet I can start uploading videos. Thanks Elon! These girls are stretching for the light, which is probably because of the mylar sheeting. However to remain stealth, this is necessary. If you don't already follow me on X, please join me over there, where you will find a bustling cannabis community. Thanks to Super Sativa Seed Club and the Passion of the Dutch for the beans!
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@Elmobud
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So from the off this strain really does give it what for as they grow big quick which is always a good sign. So getting into veg they carried on growing really well and big especially the fan leaves and loved the training that I did. So going into the flower stage they grew at some rate so be careful about when you switch them as they do nearly triple in size just bare that in mind and it's definitely a 12 week flower not 8 ☹️ but we'll worth the wait😁 So overall I would give this strain a 7 would of been 10 if had been a 8 week strain. Happy Times Happy Growing 😁 🌿
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@BudXs
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Not much to report - we will find all of our answers in a few weeks
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@pzwags420
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On day 1 I adjusted my reservoir to 6.0. I pulled down my mains with wire to spread out the plant wide and low. On day 2 I defoliated the plants, preformed their final topping, and adjusted the reservoir's PH to 5.8. On day 3 the reservoirs PH is 6.0. I increased the flow of my Blumat by 1 carrot on the right plant to increase the moisture content of the medium. On day 4 I awoke to runoff on my plant on the right, so I backed of by half a carrot in hopes that will achieve the proper medium saturation. The reservoirs PH is 6.0. I insulated my reservoir to keep my water temps warmer being in a cold garage in the winter in the northeast ;) I applied some LST to my shoots off my mains. I used soft wire to pull down the shoots. On day 5 I reduced the blumat by another half carrot as the coco is still a little too wet. I will give it a couple days to stabilize before anymore adjustments. The leaves on my right side plant which was the one over watered have salt residue on the surface of the leaves and have some leaf tip curl. I believe as the plant grows out more roots it will adapt, but I have reduced the drippers flow for now and will see how the plant reacts. I adjusted my wires for my LST as the shoots have grown more. On day 6 I removed 2 large fan leaves blocking my shoots. The leaves are still clawing. On day 7 the reservoir is 6.0. The leaf clawing looks like it is improving and the plants seem to be growing at a faster pace now. I'm getting real close to flipping to flower.
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The three in the foreground are transitioning white widows that are not being tracked. This week the bud sites have been fattening some. I noticed some minor leaf tip burn on these girls and moved the light up a few inches to compensate. 🌿👀
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Very fun grow. Taste is on point feels like a sativa.
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hello some news on vegetation day 22, start the bio grow, and bend the four Lateral head, and crap when i bend a stem has cracked but she is not cut I straighten them with a piece of iron she can go back. 😀👍
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Hello growers and tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 It's my first harvest on this community and I'm loving it. Everyone always ready to help each other and have great feedback. Tracking my grow on here has made it way easier. There were times that I misplaced notes or forgot what I did or when with a certain strain and all I had to do was come on here and check it. Also motivated me take more pictures and do more logs. All out great site. Don't know how I haven't found it earlier. HIGHLY recommend for all growers. The grow cycle went pretty smooth. She's easy to grow and flowers early so you can't do much training. That being said it's great for beginners. 👌 Had no problems with pests on these, while on the other plants (none cannabis) in the balcony I had issues with spider mites. They grew better than expected given the few hours of direct sunlight they received. Results were good, I was expecting 10-15 grams per plant and ended up with a tad bit more. Drying went a bit fast because there were few buds. I probably could have took it down a few degrees as well.. my fault on that part. They dried in 4 days, they've been curing for 10 days. I normally test them after 15 days but they smelled so good I had to try them. Smell: Lovely earthy, woody, slightly like diesel. Quite pungent for being autos. Taste: Just as it smells.. leaving a nice after taste of diesel. Touch: Very sticky, dense buds. They break down finely in the grinder. Cleaned the grinder before testing and after 4 joints ( 2 grams or so) I already have a good amount of kief collected in the bottom. (Check photo) Might grow this one again just to make some bubble hash. The high is awesome nice uplifting, long lasting energetic but without a heavy euphoric rush. Reminds me of a smooth haze high, although if you smoke a lot even being an experienced smoker, she'll get to you. Only down side is dry mouth, very dry mouth! Have some water on hand because your mouth will transform into a desert. 😂 Great strain to kick start the day. Beginner smokers take it easy with this one. She hits hard! 👊
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Hola a todos , esta semana he visto como las hormigas han hecho su trabajo, comiendo algunos tallos y flores, mas alla de este problema, que he resuelto ya, la planta se la ve bien, el color de los tallos fue mejorando. Esta semana he regado por primera vez con flora booster 2.5 ml x litro de agua. Medi el ph del agua a 6.3 y EC a 1000
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Her green still not were i want so i am keeping the nutrispray for a few days more at least until i like the colors better, apart from that she is growing great actually, wen looking at last week defoliation and now , i mean lol Sorry so short update i will keep updating among this week <3 <3 <3 Decided to connect my spider-farmer to increase my PPFD, i love this MARSHYDRO TSW2000 but in my humble opinion a 4x4 needs a bit more PPFD Power wen in flower mode bringing up my average PPFD to 1000 umol/m2/s lets see if she likes the idea or not. And like i suspected she did like more light and the color is changing bringing her green colors back to normal, did a leaf inspection just in case and posted some photos of my under leaf microscopic view, all good by the way lol , with this meaning that next week i will provably stop Nutrispray since i don't like so very much to apply any type of foliar during flower. And As i suspected i have an bug infection lol freaking trips found them way in to my closets, them a i dont know if mites, but i have something in this closet that webs and i cant find it RRR, i guess its part of the game, just been long long long time since i encounter any situations like this, and that is why its happening, i got way to comfortable and lazy on my IPM. This is one of the reasons why is so important to checking in a microscopic way under leafs etc Im ordering a bunch of beneficial insects , traps etc and going in from all sides lol non so ever she is looking great, not the best color leafs i know , but she is moving fast and furious . I will keep you all posted as for what i am doing and how i will deal with this situation so stay tuned since this can go one way or the other lol <3 <3 <3 As always thank you all for stoping by, for checking my journey , for the love support and for it all, i am blessed and humble with you all. Just a reminder , all i grow is medicine for myself, for me and for my best friend with is me nothing to sell, so don’t even ask. 

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