Plants are getting more and more oderous. They are looking amazing and starting to give a couple yellow leaves in the undergrowth. can't wait to see what the end of this mo th brings.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 70 days in and everything is going much better , she's bounced back pretty good👍 really good actually 👌 👉 Shes getting frosty now , and i hope she fills out 👌if she does gonna have some buds on a stick 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👈 Even with early major issues due to the soil/medium she's come a long way 👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

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Still waiting for trichomes to amber up⏳ This is a very enjoyable grow using LST. Much more time consuming but I enjoy gardening so it's great for me. I'm excited to see harvest amounts with LST💚🤗 I've moved both Gelato & Younger Zkittlez into a colder dimly lit room to hopefully enrich their colors. I will be harvesting them in the next day or two. I've moved the two remaining mother plants into the smaller grow tent to finish flowering & I moved the clones to the larger grow space finally!

Hey Now, this week went pretty good for the Acid Dough Auto, I started feeding her some PK booster/Kool Bloom, and also did a very light defoliation. I think I trained her out a little too far, because she only grew to about 30 inches. I think the sweet spot will be right in between what I did with the Wedding Cheesecake and this Acid Dough Auto. Not much to do now except wait for the buds to swell up and develop. I also posted a short video with a few pics from all my grows over this past year. Thanks for stopping by, I hope everyone has an amazing weekend, be safe and Blaze On!!!

All from fridge 24 hr shot glass ro and h2o2. All popped. Substrate is coco amended with dr. Earth and other goodies. Was wet and set in tent 48hrs. Letting these grow into the wet coco until the top is dry. Lights are 300 par about which is max for babies i think...

Will be harvesting today or tomorrow. After one week of flush, I stopped every watering since the start of this week. Now there’s less water inside the pot, and I can definitely feel it by moving it around. Buds are visibly bigger now! See you soon for the final harvest!

Hoping to have a quick germination as I am excited to begin this grow. My tent is in the basement and I have a small dehumidifier placed beside my intake fan.

We are starting week 5! It’s incredible how strong she’s growing since entering the pre flowering stage. One week after entering preflower she’s stretching nicely and nearly covered the whole space. After 7days from pre flowering I did another defoliation to improve airflow and focusing on forming potential buds. Week 5 went smoothly and I’m still happy with the results and growing in coco. Looking forward to week 6!

Ive got two Skunk Apple Runz plants(tossed 1 when I repotted the plants) with exotic-looking leaves and some great genetics. These are seeds I made and both the parents were top notch. They're both about five inches tall and growing strong they both seem to have the growth strength from the ricky bobby Unfortunately, one of them might not make it because of some damage or mutation im not sure, it just seems to have stop growing upward correctly but the other one's looking really healthy. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

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Hello m8 welcome to this journey with me in this diary will have very interesting strains hope u find something useful O.G. Kush Titanium - [ ] 1st week Veg: germinated in substrate lighting very close so it jets medium high humidity after the 3rd day they started sprouting - [ ] 2nd week Veg: this week my ventilator broke down and as the temperature stayed very warm nothing developed much - [ ] 3rd week Veg:fortunately this week i had fixed the ventilation and the temperature has go down a bit allowing the little plants to develop and reinforce - [ ] 4th week:very good developments in this week I already started feeding a bit two times but i didn’t have to…once was enough - [ ] 5th week Veg:this week they were very strong green i only had to water them good and keep the ventilators going no stop .They have good hight already ,but as i have to strains together. I want to transplant them when the hight of the other one have stretched… I’m thinking to transplant next week if not the next one - [ ] 6th week Veg: this week it went great fortunatly i dont have pests that eat my buds i’ve givven a fed once the substrate is very rich already the plants streached very well i will transplant today so be ready m8 i cant wait to show you the progress - [ ] 1st week Fl:they started stretching and looking very healthy just transplanted - [ ] 2nd week Fl this week I’ve been away i had a friend taking care of them they stretching very well i hope that she starts putting energy into the flo - [ ] 3rd week Fl:they are streaching very well ..getting the light very well - [ ] 4th week Fl:there we aree guys the good stage is heree good high hope dosent effect de prod - [ ] 5th week Fl:pumping very good this week a lot of changes started already being frosty - [ ] 6th week Fl:this diaries its not daily updated this week its going’s so great we are close to harvest between next week and the other one . Ill harvest them at diffrent time just because they are not all at the same point of flowi - [ ] 7th week Fl: im so satisfied from the way that this is going they didnt had any particular stress just that its 29 degrees during light and its going good so farr I haven’t constantly fed like on the peach g and pcr i hope for better taste at the end

Can anyone help my lower leaves are turning yellow and drying up

High temperatures and lots of rain is how the last week went and by the looks of it, she's absolutely loved it. 25cm growth in a few days, had to raise up the shade netting. We're at the 6ft mark now, probably 6-7ft wide! It's actually becoming really hard to photograph her. Been keeping up the all organic approach and have just completed a very cool book on botanical teas and been playing with around with what I have on hand.

So I had a few issue. I over watered early on, took them out the seed tray early, started feeding them a week or two late, no humidifier yet but they recovered well.