hi all. Here we are finally here with some of the ladies out and hanging to dry. It had been a fun week with trimming and hanging the Girl Scout cookie ladies. They finished so perfectly with a beautiful colour and terpenes oozing off them. Everytime I go up to the room , their sweet smell hits me before I get to see the other ladies. With about 6 days for #2 and 4 for #1 , I expect a few more days before they are even close to jar ready for a cure. Thankfully as they are organic and not needing to deal with leftover sodium based nutes, the terpenes should remain fairly intact with the very low 8°c and plenty of airflow keeping them rotating slowly. Rh is around 50% but not a mould risk thanks to the draughty eaves. The remaining Amnesia Haze ladies are like wound springs now. They are still 2 weeks from their supposed harvest time but look ready now. If I didn't know that there is a second flush about to pop them wide open and swell them even more , it would be easy to pull them before their true ending . Still very smokable at this stage now but i am confident that they will have a second flush of fresh pistils any day now. There are signs of it starting on a couple of the mains so i will be using the Dragon force to support this for about 7 days , which is designed to boost them at their finishing stages. I rate this product and use it every grow. Well worth a look. The natural fading and the temperature drops at lights off are creating some amazing colours throughout the canopy now too. Thankfully experience allows me to enjoy this kaleidoscope of autumnal colours and not panic that I have a major deficiency going down. There are some nicely cannabalising leaves in the canopy too which is also a good sign that they are performing just as nature intended and gorging on the stored goodness from the big fans left on. They are a multi purpose leaf for the whole process from veg to finish , they change their role as the grow progresses and as soon as she notices that they are taking more to keep alive and become a sink instead of a gain , she will cannabalising the stores built up and shed the leaf herself. This is why I get stuck with the whole defoliation debate. With that said , I hope your weeks has been as much fun as mine and that you will be joining me in the upcoming tester strain runs of Fast Buds new 2022 unreleased strains to see what's in the pipeline for the autoflower world. Be lucky folks.

Easy best grow yet

It grows 👍

Hoping for 30gs on this bad girls :) and some qua Till next grow!💚 its gonna be massive 😍 thank you all see you in 2-3 months quality hits!

I did a defoilation this week to expose budsites and direct energy towards colas that have more potential for better buds. Everything is actually going much better than expected now she stretched so much. -

Germination date 🌱 12/07/2021 Day 8 22/07/2021 Strain 🍁 SinCity seeds Frosted Biscotti (Biscotti Sundae x Whitenightmare) THC% • Unknown 💡 Mars Hydro FC4800 • Power draw 480W + 5% • Max coverage 5 x 5 • LED 2070pcsSamsungLM30B1&Osram660nm • Max Yield 2.5g / watt • Noise level 0 DB • Removable Driver +2m cable • Daisy chain (multiple lights) https://marshydroled.co.uk/products/mars-hydro-fc-4800-led-grow-light-samsunglm301b-commercial-greenhouse-medical-indoor-kit 🇬🇧 https://www.mars-hydro.com/buy-fc-4800-480w-4x4-energy-saving-full-spectrum-commercial-led-grow-light-mars-hydro-for-sale 🇺🇸 PROMO CODE • (ORG420) DISCOUNT 👍🏻 marshydroled.com ⛺ Mars Hydro 120 x 120 x 200cm 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier ❄️ 3.1kw air con system 💉 Nutrients GreenBuzzLiquids Organic Grow Liquid • 1-4ml until 2wk flower Organic Bloom Liquid • 2-4ml flower stage Organic More PK • 2-4ml +wk3 of flower Organic Calmag • 1-2ml/lt whole grow Fast Plants Spray • first 3days at night lights off More Roots • 2-5ml veg +2wks flower Fast Buds • 5ml +wk2 of veg until 1wk flower Humic Acid Plus • 2-5ml whole grow Growzyme • 2-5ml whole grow Big Fruits • 2-5ml flower stage Clean Fruits • 5ml flush 1wk Ph powder Root Gel Living Organics https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ PROMO CODE • organicnature420 15% off ✌️🏼 🥥 Growing Media • Coco Coir Notes 📝 Easy first week Plants look good and so does the mrs 😆 .. even better now the ac is in so one complete grow room. Lights doing it's job and Mars have kindly given me a promo code so if you want a cheeky discount use code (ORG420) 👍🏻Lowered it down to 70cm and will keep it there to get some stretch. New Nutrients I haven't had a problem with, the fast plant Spray is decent and I'm loving the pH powder. Gives you extra gains aswell being Organic. Thanks for all the love likes and comments and will update in a couple of days Happy growing fam ❤️🌱🍁👍🏻

The weight documented above is dry weight, not wet weigh. I wouldn’t dare disappoint myself by doing a wet weigh.

4/13 10TH planet is doing phenomenal under those aerogarden lights. I'll wait a little bit then I'll bring them over with the others. I'm comparing the growth to the growth of the mk ultra and the chem dog as they are of a more similar age. I watered the 2 mk ultra and the chem dog #4. The others looked alright so I'll check later on. The three in the middle will probably be culled. The may recover but if they don't it doesn't really matter. I'll have what I need. I'm super excited for this season. I shouldve done more 10th planet. The "kush" seedlings are starting to take off. The leaves are finally starting to get bigger and they are developing new growth. WENT BACK OVER AT 1:30. PLANTS WILL NEED TO BE WATERED IN THE MORNING. ONE PLANT WAS DOWN TO 199 GRAMS BUT IT HAS A LITTLE LESS SOIL IN THE CUP. THEY ARE GROWING AT A MORE RAPID PACE AND I DONT WANT TO INTERRUPT THAT. OTHER CUPS WERE LOW BUT NOT READY TO BE WATERED. I THINK EITHER WAY IT WOULD BE FINE BUT IM ERRING ON THE EDGE OF CAUTION. I MAYBE SHOULDVE WATERED THE DRY ONE BUT HINDSIGHT IS 20/20 AND I KIND OF WANT THEM TO BE ON A SIMILAR SCHEDULE. I GRABVED A TACK AND CHECKED THE DRAIMAGE IN THE BOTTOM. I ADDED A FEW MORE HOLES OB THE BOTTOM SIDE. I MAY JUST HAVE TO JUNK THAT MIDDLE ROW OF 3 I STRESSED BY DOING EXACTLY WHAT THE LIGHT MANUAL SAID TO DO. OH WELL I PLANNED FOR THAT WITH THE 2 MK ULTRAS AND THE CHEM DOG #4. ALL ARE DOING GREAT. SOME OF THE SOECIAL AND PINK KUSH ARE GETTING THEIR TERTIARY SET OF LEAVES SO THEY ARE PULLING OUT AND GOING TO TOWN. THE ITHER ONES (MK ULTRA, CHEM DOG, 10TH PLANET) THAT DIDNT GET STRESSED SEEM TO BE GROWING AT A FASTER RATE. I THINK I MIGHT TRY AN AUTO THIS YEAR. I HAVE A FEW BEANS. ILL THINK ABOUT IT BUT IT WOULD BE NICE TO HAVE FRESH WEED HALF-WAY THROUGH THE SUMMER. 4/14 WATERED ALL THE KUSH WITH A SHOT GLASS. THEY WERE VERY DRY. ONE WAS IN THE 180'S. I FOUND THAT ONE OF THE PLANTS THAT WAS STINTED HAS FALLEN OVER AND WAS LIMP AGAINST THE CUP. I IMMEDIATELY REMOVED TGE TWO SEEDLINGS THAT WERE BY FAR THE WORST AND I ASSUMED I WAS LOSING. I TOOK THE PEAT PELLET OUT AND THE TAPROOT HAD BARELY PENETRATED ONE AND HADN'T PENETRATED IT AT ALL ON THE OTHER ONE. IM NOT USING THOSE PEAT PELLETS AGAIN. ITS WIERD. I'VE NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE. PLANTS SEEM TO BE DOING GOOD. IM CONSIDERING STARTING ANOTHER SEED OR TWO. MAYBE AN AUTO. Edit. I added mykos amd happy happy frog to the 10th planet in the solo cups. They are already to the top. I watered them with a shot glass of water amd some mykos. 4/15 I added soil to the top of the cup on kush plants and watered them with a shot glass. It seems like I may need to up the water as it's only lasting about a day. I'm seeing some slight stretching but I have no idea why. They are just seedlings and it's a 150watt hps light! Last year I used 2! I think they needed to stay under the cfl's a little longer and thatci nightve stressed them prematurelyremoving some helmet heads. Or maybe they are having problems breaking through the pear netting. I'll tell you one thing im NEVER using peat pellets again. I have other seeds and autos I could start if needed. I have what i need but if I lose a few more I'll be pissed. Maybe better to startca couole more. Those 10thvplanet are doing amazing and blowing past everything else. They look so healthy. I'm going to download a light meter on dad's iPhone and get some readings with all the different lights today. 4/16 I was able to download a FREE app for a light meter. Apple has one bit you have to pay for readings of any of the "good" lights. I had a very hurried morning and didn't take any pictures. That one special kush that was burned like the other two I threw away (or damaged when I removed the helmet head) is starting to look like it has some NEW growth. I've kept it but a little ways away from the others. I weighed all cups and they didn't seem to need water. I AGAIN packed dry soil into a cup to get a reading. Still 200. When they get within 10 grams of dry weight I'll water them. I measured and found I had the light further away than it should be. I lowered it to approx 3ft from the top of the canopy. I'll try to map the area and see what I'm getting for results. Then I'll plug in my L.E.D and see what I get. I only lowered the light because readings (that may be inaccurate) say it's not enough and two years ago when I used this light i used two. That is unnecessary I think for seedlings. I'm just trying to get them through seedling phase intact so I can move to veg and switch my light. Transplantvinto one gallons. This is where patience comes in. I'm sure everything will be fine. I just am a worrier. 4/17 I used that light meter to check the ppfd. It says it should be between 100-200 but it was only reading at like 65 and this was after I lowered the light. I'd need to go down a ways to get anywhere close. I tried to check my l.e.d and that was low so I can switch back fine. Especially with the light meter app. However the plants seem to be doing better and have tertiary leaves so I'm hesitant to change things when they seem like they are having a growth spurt. I may take the 2 mk ultras and put them with 10th planet since they are doing so good. Won't let me upload pictures. WATERED ALL THE KUSH WITH A SHOT GLASS. EDIT: WENT BACK OVER AND USED THE PHONE APP METER ON THE LATEST IPHONE. I LOWERED THE LIGHT RO A LITTLE UNDER THREE FEET. THAT GAVE ME ABOUT 100-120 ON THE HOTTEST SPOT AND LESS FURTHER AWAY OBVIOUSLY. IM TAKING THIS WITH A GRAIN OF SALT. I MEASURED ME 100 WATT LED AND WITH BOTH SWITCHES ON I CAN REACH OVER 100 EASY FROM FAIRLY FAR AWAY. ILL BE MONITORING GROWTH AND DECIDING HOW TO MOVE FORWARD FROM THERE. I TOOK THE DOMES OFF THE 19TH PLANET BUT THE LEAF TIPS STARTED TO CURL. THE NEED TO BE HARDWNED OFF. THE CFL WAS TO CLOEE AND BRIGHT BUT MORE SO WAS THE RH OF THIS BUILDING WHICH IS PRACTICALLY NOTHING. ILL HAVE TO MOCE THEM WITH THE OTHERS. UNTIL THEN I POKED HOLES WITH A TAC ALL OVER THE DOME. THAT WAY IT CAN VENT A LITTLE BIT. I'LL SLOWLY ACCLIMATE UT TO THE LOW RH INDOORS BEFORE THE GO TO THE 100RH OUTDOORS LOL. 4/18 Didn't water this morning because things were over 20grams dry weight. Came back around one and weighed and most were within the 20 grams. One was under 200. I can see more growth since the light adjustment but I still see some stretching. But I've seen noticeable growth in a short period. I'm contemplating waiting to see what happens for a few days or to just switch to my l.e.d using my meter as a guide. Even though the box tells you how far to hang it. I'm bringing the aerogarden over to the grow tomorrow. I have a few more as well. I'm going to check that with the light meter and am considering putting the mk ultras and maybe the chem dog under that. I mean those are doing great. I poked more holes in the dome and have been exposing the plants to low rh and increased light. They don't have immediate effects anymore. I have the domes popped open too. They are gett9ng acclimated. Realistically I'm wondering if I should just pop more 10th planet or mk ultra or an auto but looking through my other diaries things will be fine. I worry to much and I usually grow clones. Outdoors. Plus most of my stuff was stolen so I'm making use of things the best I can. My money is going into good soil. I also checked the temperature at the hottest spot under the light and it was 80 degrees. This is telling my I can't really lower my light anymore. I've got some thinking to do. EDIT: 10th Planet has done well all day without a humidity dome in this extremely low rh. I'm going to bring them and the aerogarden to the grow tomorrow. I have my l.e.d setup to test. I plan to use the light meter to see what is closest to the correct ppfd. A lot of it will be gut feeling too. I'm interested to see the reading on the new aerogarden bulbs. Those seedlings are doing awesome. 4/19 Didn't water this morning I don't think. I was hurried. Got back and found one seedling that had been growing some bigger leaves just flat on the cup. Luckily I had noticed it drooping (should've watered) and picked up a straw on the way home. It weighed 180 grams. Everything was low and I MAY have watered yesterday bit I don't think so. With this hps so close its bringing the temp up to 80. I checked the cfl aerogarden lights. Wow are those bright! I had to raise them to get in range. I put the mk ultra and chemdog under the aerogardeb light. It's about 300 bit it has a couple hot spots that bring it up to like 4k-5k. The 10th planet's loved it though and did great. I held my hand over the plants and it seemed ok. Now for the hps light and the pink kush and special kush #1. I put my tatu 100 watt (1000 watt equivelant lol) 248ns above the seedlings I had just watered. Since that hps dried everything out so much I gave them 2 shot glasses. I'll keep monitoring things. I feel like this is the best bet for me. If I fuck something up I'll have to pop more 10th planet and mk ultra ect. But I've got to make sure things are in the right range. If it stretches a little I'll just have to repot it a little sooner than the others. When they outgrow the solos they go to 1 gallon. Tomorrow I'm picking up AT LEAST a bag of fox farm ocean forest so I'll be ready for transplant when necessary. I need to get all my pots together and bring the other hps to my cousin to fix. However when they get bigger I might just use the l.e.d AND the hps if I had too.

I have given the a defoliation at the top and below as in the last week has gone crazy. I have been given most RO water and looks like they can't stop growing. lower the light to around 600 pfd as the tops of the gorilla glue looked burnt. I just have a Strawberry gorilla short maybe something that I have done at the beginning or just genetics as the other is double the size.

All in all it was a great grow, alot of challenges alot the way but Im glad i stuck it out because It was 100% worth it in the long run. Buds are a very dark purple, full of trichomes, really special to look at with your own eyes, unfortunately my phone camera doesnt quite catch the beauty. Straight from drying and the buds taste amazing with their own unique taste and smell. I cant wait to see what its like after a 2 week cure! I reccomend growing this strain.

Took some clones 1 week before flipping to flower but forgot to take pictures. The video of the clones are from oct 1st. The Turnt smelled like chocolate cover strawberries but now are smelling of garlic and pepper with a bit of undertone of strawyberries. The Diesel smelled like lemon pinesol but now smells of citrus mixed with gas. The Banana Clipz smells of berries mixed with skunk. Paradiso smells of citrus mixed with fruit. Lung Buster smelled lightly sweet at first but now smells like berries mixed with a undertone of garlic,funk, and gas . Spilt Paint smells of berries mixed with diesel and funk.

Eccoci qui!!! Tutto procede per il meglio, i pistilli sono usciti e ora si va dritti dritti alla maturazione, NE VEDREMO DELLE BELLE!!! Davvero molto molto intrigato da queste bellezze, STRAIN 1 mostra colori violacei nelle prendisole in alto e mi fa ben sperare nel fenotipo viola che cerco. Entrambe le piccole sono in salute e crescono molto vigorosamente... WOOOOW Grazie a tutti per il supporto ❤️🔥🌲

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It was so sticky trimming I did a wet trimm then let them dry for 7days. Then cleaned up the buds a little more before putting them all in the jars. I'll update on the taste and effect when I finally get to try it !. Gorilla glue #4 is up next but that wont be starting till may .. update gave it a little try and is already stronger than the Acapulco gold I bought online

Semana del 9 al 15 de septiembre 2024. Estas Autos BSF van con todo, muy vigorosas, excepto una blueberry y una Orange Blossom que van un poco lentas.

end of heat alarm: outside temp is 28˚C, in tent 29°C / 65 rh ____________________________________________ light- and watering schedule: see photos now: 16 plants 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 2 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 1 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup + strategy: 18 seeds 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 3 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 2 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup: 18 x gronest 2 liter 60 cm x 120 cm x 180 cm (2 x 4) growtent 4 l humidifier 25 watt axial fan 15 watt clip fan ro-filter bath room with a 50 watts room fan (-> carbon filter not necessary) ...and a lot of odds and ends. grow strategy: max yield by stressing with: 1. tiny shoes (2 l fabric pots standing on 3 plastic rings (4 cm) for max oxygen) 2. tiny growspace (18plants on 0.72 sqm) 3. many strains (8 strains) 4. annoying neighbourhood (mixing old - i.e. bubblegum (late 80's) - with young- i.e. hazeberry (2018) - genetics) 5. no stress by light or food or water 6. unintentionally too much food plus: - no lst - no hst - just leaf tucking - positioning bigger strains (euphoria, orange bud, haze berry) or just bigger phenos on less intense light spots (end of tent + edges) - music-rotation: 24 hrs reggae (for sativas) - 24 hrs classicals (because it's scientifically proofed) - 24 hrs traditionals from the hindukush region (for the indicas) max efficiency (min electricity - max yield): - light: 23 h on - 1 h off - keeping the distance of 18" (45 cm) and dimming to the right par (lux) - value depending on growing stages (see sheet: beginning 185 par ( 10000 lux/100 watt )/end 340 par ( 18000 lux/175 watt )) => ends up in approx. 170 watts in average over max 15 weeks temperatur management: - using approx. max. half of what the lamp can do keeps temperature low: my tsl 2000 is pulling max. 360 watts of the wall - i need only 175 watts, results in less temperature than using a 175 watts lamp - adjusting the temperature by using a humidifier outside of tent: blown in humidity is soaking degrees and is transported out by fan, works much better than doing the same with pure air summer extreme: no humidifier: 36°C / 35 rh - with humidifier: 29°C / 65 rh works for 1-2 weeks of real hot summer days, no mould, no signs of stress in two summers germination: seeding in waterglass spraying "basic"-water: ro-water (22 ppm) + calmag to 180 ppm every 4 - 8 hours until sprouted man versus fungus gnat: 5 days before seeding i'm running the tent with "basic"-watered pots as if there were plants inside - led on, fans on, humidifier on. Fungus gnats coming with the soil might take the chance to come out now for breeding. i'm waiting with a 9 mm rifle. in the past i found 6 gnats in 2 of 8 x 50 l biobizz lightmix bags coming out of the soil. i could eliminate every single gnat successfully ;) rotating harvest: the little ones will be harvested completely when ready. at this point only the top branches of the big ones will be cut...and the new (basic-watered) pots of the new grow will move into the tent. 2-3 weeks later the secod half of the big ones will be cut and the second half of the new grow will move in... nutes: biobizz / soil: biobizz lightmix bloom,grow,topmax,activera,algamic + aminopower instead of bio heaven (too expensive) individual feeding schedule/once a week: veg: 200 - 600 ppm bloom: 600 - 900 ppm water: ro-water with: veg: 100-150 ppm calmag bloom: 150 ppm calmag

Larry OG started to have a very pleasant grape candy smell, peach maraschino also smell very sweet and candy like. Black Cherry Pound Cake has a slight gas smell too it which I look forward to! Dr. Grinspoon has yet to produce any overwhelming odor, the smell test I have received from the leaves defoliated and from touching the plant stalk resembles a nice spice and floral aroma. The strong heat days raise humidity from high 40’s to mid 50’s, the pint sized dehumidifier seems to work perfectly for my 3x3 tent by keeping it within that range and avoiding big fluctuations. By the end of the week both the Larry OGs and Black Cherry Pound Cake showed first signs of a nice purple fade despite warmer conditions. Larry OG (2) auto flower is showing signs of calcium and magnesium deficiency. I suspect the 2 auto flowers should be getting ready for harvest within the next few weeks, they started the flowering cycle before the photoperiod plants so I will be breaking out the jewelers loop to start checking out trichome heads

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

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