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@BlumenBot
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7/26 - shes in flower and got her first feeding. Debating removing some bottom growth or just letting her run as is with no modifications. 5.8pH 73.6*F 740ppm Bloom 2.18g Phosphorus 0.32g Kelp 0.28g Cal/Mag 0.32g Amino Acids 0.58g Enzymes 0.12g Terpinator 12ml Great White 1.19g Real Growers Recharge 0.1g Rezin 2ml 7/27 - removed bottom 4 branches as they will never be close to the top. Want her focusing energy on the rest 7/28 - she was thirsty today, really dry...did a quick flush feeding, probably full feed Friday. This an heat is making it really difficult to keep the temps down in the box!! Running high 80s :/ 7/29 - it's a girl!! 8/1 - looks like I may have a deficiency. Gave her a good feeding today. Bloom 3.08g Phosphorus 0.57g Potassium 0.76g Kelp 0.38g Cal/Mag 0.55g Amino Acids 0.62g Enzymes 0.15g Terpinator 12ml Great White 1.1g Real Growers Recharge 0.12g Rezin 3ml 5.8ph 73.4*F 1030ppm
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Week Three im happy with the random seed, I see not much of a difference yet, they all look indica or indica-dominant. one plant is most vigorous, all but one are all growing nice. I also popped one seed of fastbuds fast flowering seeds: gorilla cookies, orange sherbert and gg4 sherbert. Everything going nice in week three, seedlings coming along. they will need transplanting soon, but I'm still hoping to see some sex before that, so I can sort out male plants. I am also not sure if the random seed are autos or photoperiod. I still decided that I will top all plants to give the seedling a little time to catch up some more. this week was feeding time. I feed the plants with a biotabs alternative. im not 100% sure with this, but the biovin is used as the startrex, colonize as the bactrex and the bottled nutrients are the orgatrex. two tabs in 11l / 3 gal pots. these nutrients take some time to work. I use biobizz allmix and we transplanted around one week ago. maybe that's a little bit early, but I think it will be fine. in the End of Week 3 I can't see any burns. some nice fungus formed, so I think the nutrients doing its things. i plan to level up my LST-Skills with the random seed plants and probably don't do a lot on the fastbuds plants to even out the difference in lifetime, so that will mean I maybe get less harvest from the fastbuds plants, but that fine for me. we will see how it turns out. thx for checking out my grow, im a first time grower, but I feel like I have earned some knowledge In the last years by educating myself, so I hope the grow is interesting for all the nicely growers here. I don't aim to do everything perfectly, at least I don't monitor everything but I do my best to keep the plants happy and in a good place to grow and flower.
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@Salokin
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Hello Growmies, Two weeks into vegetation, our Watermelon Candy by Zamnesia is striking a fine figure in the grow tent. Each plant has achieved a notable height of 14 cm, an impressive feat for their age, suggesting that they are well on their way to becoming vigorous and bushy specimens. The uniformity observed in the first week continues to be a defining trait of the Watermelon Candy strain. These plants, with their symmetrical leaf structure and consistent growth patterns, are reflecting their strong genetic lineage. The lush green leaves and the tautness of the stems speak volumes about the care they've received. Their transplant into the 12.5-liter air-pots, coupled with the application of Great White during the process, has provided them with a fertile foundation for root development. This mycorrhizal support will surely bolster their ability to uptake water and nutrients efficiently, setting them up for success in the coming weeks. The controlled environment, with precise management of temperature and humidity, continues to foster their growth. With the lights dimmed to 25% and delivering 150-180 PPFD, the plants are receiving the perfect amount of energy to thrive without the stress of overexposure. The IR lighting before lights on and off, along with the midday UV light exposure, is fine-tuning their growth cycles and boosting their natural defenses. Once the inline fan is connected and operational, you'll have complete control over the tent's environment, enhancing dehumidification during the night and ensuring optimal conditions 24/7. It's this attention to detail and environment that is paving the way for these Watermelon Candy plants to flourish. Stay lifted, Salokin.
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Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme
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Buds are flowering up super nice! Had a tiny issue where I thought it was much worse then it was (I got sum water on the leaves and it burnt circle shaped burns on them) I worried it was a fungal disease or something. I removed the leaves in a panic, and since haven't had any issues! Anyway the smell is amazing already I'm getting notes I really didn't expect to smell on a Superboof cross! Almost remiscent of Creature Feature or Acapulco Gold with a bit more gas! It is only week 4, so ideally the Terps should transform. I am loving it so far The bud structure is looking amazing, the top nugs are almost spear shaped which is really cool, some of the buttom bugs are almost spear shaped as well but more circle/fat. Standard nug look. It's beginning to stack some frost on as well! I have a good idea the nugs are going to have a nice lumpy - spear shaped buds. Almost looks as if the tops are foxtailing which would be really cool too! Amazing genetics. Every issue I've encountered has been so quickly corrected and bounced back. No herms, definently high grade genetics and I'm happy to be working with Homegrown Genetics to be able to post this seed to harvest and share with everyone!
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@GroloCup
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I use a 70/30 solution of H2O2 and tap water inside a small capsule, allowing the seed to soak for 24 hrs, and she was ready for her birthday, already showing a tap root in that time span... I then place the seed into a damp paper towel to allow the tap root to extend a little further out in preparation for the transplant. I'll start her in a small grow bag filled with my amended Pro Mix seed starter blend, hopefully making a strong seedling for my first AutoPot run. This is for their grow off, which I found on their Discord server, but they are very active on FB and IG... Their catalog of offerings are definitely connoisseur genetics, most importantly, Made in the USA! 🇺🇲
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~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 12/26 😻We're almost there! We started our preharvest flush last week and color is fading fast.. one plant from the group was ready (she's drying now) that plant has been ahead of the bunch this entire time..the rest of the girls should be ready to come down by next week but we're watching trichs close just in case they turn fast..The SP-3000 by MarsHydro has been an amazing addition to the grow room, our clones and seedlings couldn't be happier..It took some trial, error and a few burnt tips to dial in distance but I'm very happy we've found the perfect spot in time for a decent harvest this round but our upcoming Bruce Banger grow will be absolutely epic!! Thanks as always for the love and support, happy harvests everyone!! ⚡Mars Hydro/SP-3000⚡ Specifications ⚙️: Diodes: Samsung LM301B / Osram 660nm (960 total!) Driver: Meanwell 300watt 🔌 (300W±5% @AC120V-277V) PPF: 824umol/S ☢️ PPE: 2.8 µmol/j 〰️〰️ Lifespan: >50k hrs ⌛ Veg Coverage: 3 x 5 ft 🌱 Flowering Coverage: 2 x 4 ft 🌼 Weight: 10.1 lbs (4.6kg) -The SP-3000 uses an aluminum heatsink (no fan) and the driver can be placed outside the tent 🌡️⬇️ -IP65 waterproof ratings, tolerant to high humidity grow environments 💦 .. -Up to 15 can be daisy-chained together and all controlled from a single light! 💡~💡~💡~💡~💡 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 12/28 This is some potent bud lol..I made a tincture with the plant we cut down a few days ago and it's a chemical weapon lol...the smoke is amazing too, these buds are completely covered in crystals, they just melt in the pipe and this stuff gives me a slight head rush .. we might chop the rest down later today❤️🌱 😽💨 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~
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Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600
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Pleasure to grow. Low maintenance in super soil setup in 5 gal cloth pot. Stayed small and compact but frosted up early and heavily. No deficiencies, steady growth, no training needed. Even minimal LST (which I did not do), would surely increase yield but I was more focused on quality and letting it do its thing. Genetically, it was determined to grow a perfect little canopy while not taking up much space, about as low maintenance as you can get on a plant imo. Running autos is still a limited thing for me, I like the idea of having keeper clones of photos as this is all for personal medical use, but this plant was fun to grow, true to form and stable as heck. I have a few seeds left and I’ll definitely save them for an outdoor run down the line
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@TrueNorth
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COMMENTED BY TrueNorth TrueNorth 4 days ago -Strain: Orange Sherbet 🍊 - Fast Buds -Tent: 5x5 Gorilla Grow Tent -Lights: Budget LED Grow Lights 2 x 250 Watt LED Full Spec/Red Spec mixed boards -Light Cycle: 18/6 -Soil: Fox Farm -Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T6 Inline Duct Fan March 31, 2020 - Here we are growmies! Week 3 already, this morning (9am) i put her into this 5G grow bag, here she will flourish to be the beast i am hoping the PURPLE LEMONADE was in the same bag!!! Started feeding today nice and light! Love you guys!
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@FijiS
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Week8 D1 Flush has begun for Rainbow Belts and Blue Dream- BD and RB are about 10-15% amber trichromes so I will shoot for 25% to get that nice uplifting high. Expecting to harvest BD and RB in about 5-7 days. They were watered with 6.3ph water 2 gallons each and that will most likely be last- once they dry out i will move both into a dark tent for 48hours and then chopping them down. W8 D2 looking like 5 or so more days before we chop blue. W8 D6 One more flush yesterday- harvested 4 tops that were hanging on rainbow belts- all trichromes nice and milky. The whole girls probably have another 4 - 6 days to go then I'll do a 48hour blackout and harvest. Wish me luck!
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@DannyGNYC
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Oh boy, what a week have they got Sick PH was very high. Didn’t know what to do so the last week and a half. I’ve been flushing them bringing the pH down little by little trying to go gentle eventually the last flash show PH at 6.8. Which is OK anything between six and seven is considered optimal range for cannabis plant.
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So… 12 cuttings, 2 are toast right off the bat. 3 have rooted, 1 of which was transplanted into 3 gal pot and the two 8 day clones will stay another day in the humidity dome in veg tent (now known as Planck). My flowering tent is called Einstein (don’t judge me!) 😂 I have the vs1000 at 25% in Veg tent and sf4000 at 100% in flowering tent. I decided that I want feminized seeds from one (2) of these ladies so I’m going to pick two clones, one to get hit with colloidal silver to make pollen sacks and the other to get pollinated. Since both clones are female they don’t have the Y chromosome so they can’t make male seeds (although you could have a herm I guess and not know it. Maybe? Dunno) When the colloidal silver disrupts the plants normal flowering process it makes the plant make pollen sacks but doesn’t change the DNA of the plant so you are only getting XX from the pollen. And the recipient plant is also XX so the resulting seeds are only female. If I’m wrong please correct me…anyone!! What if I pick two clones from same mother?! Hmmmm. Also got to be careful to not pollinate the 7 in the flowering tent (Einstein). Plastic bags over the plant? Separate tent enough? We will see… I’m naming the clones that root after famous female scientists I admire. The first one is Ada, after Ada Lovelace, who was an English mathematician and writer, chiefly known for her work on Charles Babbage's proposed mechanical general-purpose computer, the Analytical Engine. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ada_Lovelace) The other two get named when they are transplanted. For the 7 in the flowering tent it’s just hurry up and wait. Right?
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29 macetas de 20-18 litros aproximadamente Dia 32 de Floracion Super Suelo Sin fertilizantes Apoyado con biortilizantes @bioinsumoschakrana Melaza Te de Bokashi Humato Postasico Potenciado @Knactive Knactive el mejor bioestimulante 100% orgánico para todo tipo de plantas , el cual activa la autodefensa contra el estrés oxidativo y potencia la síntesis interna de todas las fitohormonas. https://instagram.com/knactive_?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Vital Juice Es un producto Chileno hecho en base a algas: durvillaea antarctica y ascophyllum nodosum.
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@AlphaNoob
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Ph meter is broken so I’ve just been feeding plain water, going to try order one ASAP. I also forgot to lower the light a few days ago, checked on them two days ago and three of them had fallen over so I had to tie them up with garden ties and adjust the distance of the light. Fastberry seems to be a bit behind the others, I might have overwatered a little bit the other day, hopefully it bounces back sooner than later. Ph meter has come will be feeding nutrients for the first time with their next feed
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Day 1. The cuttings after being rooted in the special tray were transplanted into small jars and allowed to acclimatize in the appropriate boxes. After a few days we transplanted them into 18 L pots filled with plagron growmix, a prefertilized substrate, and then they were placed inside our cultivation box, the one in the photos. Being a prefertilized substrate we watered with only water with a pH of 6.5 until the water ran out into the saucers. As the 18 L pots are very large, no more water was needed for the first 5 days. DAY4. The plants were topped.