Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Top Gun #2 finishing up nicely, checking for mold every day, humidity is back in the 50s. I just trimmed up Top Gun #1 yesterday. 9 day dry, humidity started dropping into the 40s the last couple of days. Only one other tip of the buds had some mold on it. I’m smoking it idc🤷. Total dry weight was 50grams minus the molded buds, I’ll make butter with those. Small plant but smoking it right after drying it was one of the best things I’ve tried, very proud.

The plant is growing strong. I have to change the wires in order to follow the plant growing. Seems quite hard because there is no soil to attach hooks. So i am thinking to build something that might work better for main lining on hydroponics.

1.2m x 1.2m tent Kind l600 led

Here we are again to tell you about this crazy strain that we found: White Truffle by Zamnesia, worked with a main lining sent into flowering very quickly due to the arrival of the heat. We can spend two and a half months doing main lining but guys it also depends on the times and many other factors, if it were up to me I would always make trees but you have to adapt. ** We remind all users that we grow two plants per strain, one worked with specific techniques and the other left to grow freely this was main lined. Description // This plant was worked with a main lining, having very irregular internodes it was complicated to decide what to keep and what to leave but in the end the plant is not bad at all. The flowers are very particular we have pure polypeptide flowers that have given us a very particular shape. The resin is also very good and after 48 hours of darkness there is that effect that only the dark finale can give, do not give up on this procedure especially in periods of less resining like summer. Trichomes and maturation // We did a thorough microscopic analysis 10x (and 10x x 1.6) and noticed a good percentage of milky/lumpy trichomes; The percentage of amber trichomes was also excellent and still a bit transparent, but that's fine for us as we're not crazy about THC oxidation and hyper indica effects around here. Here too some red head trichomes I had mistakenly said that they are a little rarer but obviously I was wrong sorry guys and girls. Fertilizers and soil // We used the Plagron organic fertilizer range, all the recommended additives and Pro Mix soil, both unfertilized and organic. Calculate the dosage according to your needs on the website ------ https://plagron.com/ The nutrients are available in convenient packs on the Zamnesia website --------- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11457-plagron-easy-pack-natural.html Try this strain, it's an autumnal crazy delight ---- // https://www.zamnesia.io/11184-zamnesia-white-truffle-seeds.html Zamnesia Brief Description // The product of crossing GG with Peanut Butter Breath, White Truffle boasts a first-class genetic line, taking the best from some of the best American cultivars. And as you'd expect, it has a lot to offer: a high THC content, an irresistible flavor and a relaxing, carefree effect. Oh, and let's not forget that it's incredibly easy to grow too! Buy your seeds today and enjoy easy harvests of delicious, US-grown bud. And as you'd expect, it has a lot to offer: a high THC content, an irresistible flavor and a relaxing, carefree effect. Oh, and let's not forget that it's incredibly easy to grow too! Buy your seeds today and enjoy easy harvests of delicious, USA-grown bud. The whole world of growing and more is here at Zamnesia - visit the site for "nature's best" in all shapes and colors. The new strains are amazing and the old ones are no exception... -- // www.zamnesia.com

Temperatures this whole week: MAX - 25.8ºC MIN - 18.5º C MAX HUMIDITY - 90% MIN HUMIDITY: 44% Aprox Plants Height Sunday 26: Persian Pie 1 - 23cm Persian Pie 2 - 18cm Persian Pie 3 - 21,5cm Persian Pie 4 - 20,5cm All Gas OG - 14cm Irrigation: 21/3 - 2L (400ml each) of alkaline tap water (6.9 Ph, 127ppm) with 0.1 ml/L of silic boost, 1ml/L of Terra Leaves and 1ml/L of Atazyme. 24/3 - 2L (400ml each) of alkaline tap water (6.72Ph, 117ppm) with 0.1ml/L of silic boost and 0.2ml/L of Rootbastic. (last alkaline irrigation, last dose of rootbastic) -The stains seems to be drops of water from the humidificator, probably they're falling there when i move the deposit to refill it. Next week i should put the light closer, make apical pruning and pull in the tent a scrog web to put a limit to the plants height because they're starting to grow willowy and the tent is only 1.80m tall. I should also make an abundant irrigation to check earth's Ph and PPM again and get the A/C ready to be plugged to the tent because temperatures are rising up exponentially outside and some local growers are starting to have issueswith that. Cheers guys, have a great week and good luck with the outdoor season. Good luck with the harvest to those on the other side of the equator 🙌🙌

They gettin fat

Неделя прошла как и планировалось. Вовремя в начале недели понизил яркость ламп, это остановило разрушение старых листьев от переизбытка магния и нехватки кальция. Ко всему прочему снизило быстрый стретч и позволило гнуть ветки, так как они снизили скорость утолщения. Одна из веток на 4-ом этаже лопнула от основного ствола, пришлось делать целу систему из растяжек, чтобы и гнуть можно было, и чтобы транспортная мозоль могла образоваться. В высоту прибавии только 2 см, это из-за того что основной ствол еще больше получил утолщение и немного вытянулся в длинну, остальные 8 веток несчастно гнутся и разводятся по сторонам. PPM также 700 как на влив, так и в дренаже, то есть питается отлично, проблем нет вообще никаких, старые листья не стали прогрессировать в образовании ржавчины и продолжают жить и пахнуть. Новые листья правильной формы и без эффекта "преднизалона". Утром запах как в хвойном лесу. Не смотря на свои 30 дней от роду, пахнет довольно сильно, и это не смотря на то что даже не цветет. Склоняюсь к тому, чтобы начать переводить на цветение, как раз за неделю ветки подрастут, вытянутся и будем иметь красиво сформировавшийся куст. Спасибо что заглянули. Без вас вести дневник не имеет смысла. Всем удачи!

Here we go, just crossing into week 6. LOTS of flower power happening right now, I love to see it! The gals seem to be thirsty every 4 days or so. Feeding a slightly diluted fox farms schedule with the big 3: grow big, big bloom and tiger bloom now. I’ll keep ya posted! Thanks for reading.

se mantiene alimentación base de vegetación por los primeros 10 días del cambio fotoperiodico, aplique ultima vez preventivo, parámetros de cultivo alineados

Hello there. week 7 from seed and it looks like sweet seeds knows what They are talking about. 8-8.5 weeks to harvest looks like we are on track. I added a little bloom booster 2 weeks ago back-to-back weeks, and I thought I fucked up the PH. Leaves turning yellow looked like a lock out. Come to find out these are super-fast flowering. so, it is at the end of its life cycle. It is my first time with these genetics, and I am very impressed. I made a pretty hot super soil from what I can deduce. From what I have seen in other recipes, and the wicking buckets were a new twist instead of fabric pots. and they took to it like fish to water. 3 of them the red poison did very well. the dark devil is not as tall but the color and smell or the stuff of legend. In My humble opinion. loos like the will come down next week no more water as the buckets are heavy. They should use up the water in the super soil and then 48hr of dark.💪 p.s. It is International Womens month. tell your favorite girl how awesome she is. and take a bong rip.

Plants looks great, strong smell, I think one more week and timber time.

Semana 25 março - 31 março 27 março - feeding day 30 março - feeding day: Bio bloom 2ml; topmax 1ml; bio heaven 2ml; bio grow 1ml; acti-vera 1.5ml pH 6.3 - nutrientes misturados em 1.1L de água

Week 6 went pretty well, +30 during the day, +23 at night, a few yellowed leaves, next time I water her I will give her Espom salt so that she absorbs more magnesium, despite the high heat everything else looks good :) good luck to everyone.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la quinta semana de floración de estas Gorilla Cookies Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Agradezco a Agrobeta todos los kits obtenidos de ellos 🙏. Hasta aquí veis que llevan buen progreso y el color que se marcan es espectacular. Vamos al lío, el ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 22/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El fotoperiodo a 12-12. Estás próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

The fourth week of growth has begun, and our FBA 2504 from 42Fast Buds is thriving. After the transplant into a 10-liter pot, the plant has adapted well and continues to develop strong and healthy. Despite being an autoflower, we're experimenting with a 12/12 light cycle, and so far, the results look promising. The temperature remains stable, reaching up to 30°C during the day, with an average of 27°C–28°C. Humidity is maintained between 60% and 65%, providing optimal conditions for growth. The plant has grown noticeably, now standing between 20 and 25 cm, with well-developed foliage. We've started applying low-stress training (LST) to shape its structure, encouraging better light penetration and maximizing potential yields. Additionally, we continue to feed our beauty with Xpert Nutrients, and the results are already visible—strong, vibrant growth and lush green leaves. Everything is on track, and we’re excited to see how our experiment unfolds in the coming weeks!

we have moved up to 1 cup of water a day and watching I dream of Jeeny

The plants are looking really healthy. I’m still getting used to my new lights. I think I didn’t push enough light in week 2 of flower I’m ramping up the light intensity now. I had to whip out my par meter I was keeping the light to far off the plants. This light has to be closer to the plants than my mini sun. I’m lurking this light a lot I just need to get used to it