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Jan 10 -
Seed in cup of water with 1% hydrogen peroxide. Stored in the dark at approximately 68-70 degrees Fahrenheit. First attempt with paper towel method didn't work out well. Hope this one works out.
Jan 13-
Seed sprouted a tail. Transferred to germination kit. I think I might have ruined it because during transfer part of the shell came loose. I planted it anyway. We'll see what happens. Currently at 80% humidity and 80 degrees F.
Day 1 (Jan 15)-
Humidity 72, temp 82 F. I saw a little bit sticking up above the soil but it looked a bit weird. I had the lights off this whole time and so I turned them on. I dampened the soil some more. I will keep the lights on constantly at this point until I can see it grow as expected.
Day 2 (Jan 16) -
Temp: ~ 74 F. RH: 60-70%. It is a little difficult to maintain a steady humidity in the germination dome. After watering, the humidity shoots up too high and so I open the vents a tad to slowly bring it down. I saw some fungus gnats flying around the room last night and so I sprayed a little bit of hydrogen peroxide to slow them down until this morning. I purchased Gnatrol to get at the larvae and adults and I sprinkled about 1/8 tsp on top of soil. When the soil was mostly dry I sprayed some water on top to help the Gnatrol mix into the soil.
Day 3 (Jan 17) -
Today the humidity dropped to 40% while I was gone. I decided to alter my setup a little bit. I am keeping the seedling in the germination dome for now. I have the AC Infinity temp probe in the germination dome and the humidifier hose outlet close to one of the dome vents. I have that vent and another vent on the opposite side open. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do this, but so far it is working. I hope the low humidity wont ruin the plant.
Day 4 (Jan 18) -
Temp: ~70 F. RH: 55-75. The humidifier stopped sending vapor through the hose at some point in the morning. I repositioned the humidifier and it worked for the rest of the day preventing the humidity from falling below 66 but went as high as 75. In the evening I repositioned the hose and germination dome so that only some of the vapor made it into the dome. The RH is now stable between 66 and 69 %. With the temp between 68-70 and the humidity around 68, I have a VPD of around 0.8, which is what I want.
Day 5 (Jan 19)-
Temp: ~70 F; RH: 66-70 %. At first I thought she might be dead but at lunch I saw the beginnings of 2 true leaves. I am surprised at how tiny they are. The cotyledon leaves were damaged early on (probably from the hydrogen peroxide that might have gotten on it when I was trying to get rid of fungus gnats) but the true leaves are a bright and healthy green.
Day 6 (Jan 20)-
Temp: ~70-71 F, RH: 66-70 %. She looks just slightly larger than before but it is extremely hard to tell. I think I finally have my temperature and humidity regulating system as stable as it can get. I plan to introduce some nutrients on my next watering. The soil is currently wet and so I will have to wait.
Day 8 (Jan 22)-
Temp: ~70-72 F. RH: 67-74%. I had to adjust the positioning of the germination dome and humidity hose because the RH was spiking up to 73 or 74 at times during the night. I initially increased the light to level 6 of 10. That kept the temperature at around 70.5 without me having to utilize an additional heat source. I then increased to level 7 and it seems to have increased the temperature to around 72. I don't think I have been watering often enough. Today I watered to run off and that was about 20 mL. I put a little drop of nutrients with the water (PH of 6.4). Since there isn't a seedling week to choose I will continue to add to this section for a bit longer.
Day 9 (Jan 23) -
Temp: ~72 F. RH: 67-69%. VPD around 0.8 to 0.9. Soil still damp from yesterday's watering. I noticed 2 more leaves starting to grow. Exciting. I was a little concerned about the condition of 1 of the cotyledon leaves; it looks partially eaten. I spoke with a local expert who said it just might be dying away and to just keep an eye on it.
a seed typical germinates under the substrate and when it sprouts (breaks ground) it's a seedling. somemethods of germination make this a bit of a grey area, so if you don't plant direclty in substrate, i'd say the moment most shed their shells and 'developed' leaves pop out. since you end up burying the tap root and having teh sprout already above ground from get-go.
you got a live sprout, so it's a seedling. Even though some of these disctintions have a specific definition, it's more about observation of maturity of any single plant. some demand more light sooner... as far as i'm concerned if the plant is acting like a mature plant it is a mature plant regardless of a definition not directly tied to causality and justmeant as a general guide as opposed to written in stone in this case. grey areas... thnk of how we describe/definie human development and how much variation there is from those categorizations. some go through puberty at 12 others 14... same with plants although less complicated dynamics with a less complicated lifeform.
What should my VPD be for a grand daddy Purple seedling that hasn't developed its cotyledons yet? Currently am hovering around 0.8 to 0.95. Temp around 75/76 F and RH around 68/69%. As far as I understand it, GDP seedlings need the RH to be between 60 and 70 %.
What you have it at sounds perfect. GDP loves humidity, even when flowering. When i pop new GDP seeds, my environment is usually 75F and 60% humidity. They grow just fine and i don't really feel like i need to change it.
With this cultivar, i like to drop temperature with humidity during flower. The last week of flower i try to have my temperature at low 70s during lights on and low 60s during lights off with a RH of around 20%-30%. Just my personal preference, though. Every grower is different.
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I hope this helps!
I decided to start veg 1 week even though it isn't in true veg state yet. This will allow me to provide more detailed information that germination stage doesn't provide.
My Ideal environment goal for propagation/early veg stage: VPD 0.7 to 0.8 / Temp 72-74 F / RH 65-68 %
Day 10 (Jan 24) -
Temp: 72 F, RH: 68%. VPD: ~0.8. Still in seedling tray. Soil relatively dry. Watered to runoff (15 mL water). Included a tiny drop worth of nutrients. PH= 6.5). Started the week with 1.2 cm in height. Up until now the leaf temp has been pretty close to the environment temp. Today the leaf temp was 1 degree F lower and so I adjusted the offset, but that barely changed my VPD; still around 0.7-0.8. Today it was 1.2 cm high and by night it was 1.4 cm.
Day 12 (Jan 26) -
Temp: 68-71 F; RH 68 %. Leaf temp about the same as environment temp. The temperature started out around 68 for a good a few hours after lights were already on and so I turned on the main lights a little to heat it up. Measured her at night : 1.8 cm tall.
Day 13 (Jan 27) -
Temp: 72-74 F, RH: 61-68%. Watered (18mL/ no nutrients). After a few hours of lights being on it was cold again. Turned on main lights and heated to 71. Her growth seems to be accelerating. That was encouraging until I saw some brown spots on 1 of the leaves. I reached out to a nearby expert and described to him what I saw. He believes it is damping off- too moist. I lowered RH to 61 and upped temp to 74. I was advised to not bother paying attention to VPD until it grows more. I will not water until soil is dry. Hopefully I'm on the right track.
Day 14 (Jan 28) -
Last night I checked the leaves and saw no spots anymore. Very encouraging. I upped the RH to 63% this morning. I noticed the beginnings of what I think are fan leaves.
Day 15 (Jan 29) -
I had a discussion with some friends/grow experts and they think she might have some mildew. I sprayed 1% hydrogen peroxide on leaves and stem and gently wiped off the surfaces. Last night while checking the soil dampness I noticed that a root was sticking out the drain hole. Although she is still barely about 2.8 cm tall I decided to transplant her to a 1 gallon fabric pot. Then I watered with 25% of 1 gallon pot capacity (32 oz / 1 L).
Day 16 (Jan 30) -
This morning I decided to take a jewelers loop and get a really good look (and picture) of the leaves and whether its mildew or not. I went to the local hydroponics store and after showing the picture, he said to wait a week because hydrogen peroxide can sometimes leave the surface looking like that for a little while. I sure hope he is right. I guess we'll find out in a week. After transplanting to a pot, it has been really hard keeping the heat up and steady. My grow tent heater gets delivered tomorrow. I sure hope it will help stabilize the temperature.
I was looking at a closeup view of an overhead pic I took yesterday and noticed some slight tan/bron color along the sides of the 2 bigger leaves. I'm wondering why. Nutrient burn? Sulphur deficiency? Something else? Any thoughts?
Asking again but I'll be more specific: I was looking at a closeup view of an overhead pic I took yesterday and noticed some slight tan/brown color along the sides of 1 of the true leaves leaves. I'm wondering why. Nutrient burn? Sulphur deficiency? Damping off? Thoughts?
I think you're looking too closely at your plant. Relax... it's a weed... and it's not going to die. This is most likely a couple of drops of water that were splashed on the leaf and left to dry/burn under the lights... It is honestly nothing to worry about.
Good luck...
Day 17 (Jan 31) -
Temp: ~68-75 F. RH: 57-63%. She is 3 cm tall and beautiful. Leaves are 2-3 degrees F below environment temp. I lowered set humidity to 59 and set temp to 74 F. That will give a VPD of ~0.8. Moved light from 35 cm above plant at level 3 to 61 cm above at level 6 of 10. Reason is because I noticed the humidifier blowing a lot of the mist directly at the light. My new grow tent fan was delivered today. It was too big to be inside my 2x2 tent and so I put it outside facing the tent's vent. Temperature is now regulated within 0.5 F of target. Impressive!!
Day 18 (Feb 1) -
Temp 71-73 at day. 65 at night; RH 35-64%. 5 cm tall. The humidifier had to work too hard to overcome the dry hot air in the morning and the tank emptied by noon. After replenishing the tank the humidity came back to where it was supposed to be. Although the new heater does a fantastic job regulating the temperature so precisely, I will have to figure out how to manage the humidity fluctuation efficiently.
Day 19 (Feb 2) -
Temp: 71-74 at day/ 66 at night; RH: 58-63%. I see a lot of leaf growth although it doesn't seem to be any taller than yesterday.
Day 20 ( Feb 3) -
Temp- 72-74 day/ 66 night. RH: 58-61. Soil was dry. Gave 9 oz of water. 1 ml of nutrients. Ph 6.4. water temp 70 degrees. EC 2.1. It was a bad idea to add nutrients because it made the EC too high. I need to keep the EC around 0.4 for right now. I set up my backup humidifier to help keep my primary humidifier from overworking itself. This will be an experiment to see how well it combats the RH drops due to heat and how much of a RH spike it will cause.
Day 21 (Feb 4) -
Temp: 71-73 F day/ 66-68 F night; RH: 55-64%. Somehow the power went out last night. Temp stayed around 71 and humidity around 50 during the night. The second humidifier is definitely helping to keep the other humidifier fro working so hard, but I had to adjust some trigger settings to minimize spikes. This has allowed for a bigger fluctuation than yesterday. Although I would like a much more stable RH, I guess 10% range to fluctuate in isn't bad. At least it shows air flow coming in.
Day 22 (Feb 5) -
Temp: 71-73 F day/ 66-68 F night; RH: 59-63%. Watered: 12 ounces (no nutrients), 69 degrees F, 0.25 mS. The power went out again last night. I think I figured out the cause: My room space heater shuts off after 24 hours leaving the greenroom heater to do all the work. It is a beast of a heater and can draw a lot of power. I will do an experiment and see what happens if I make sure the power doesn't shut off over the course of the night. I got curious about the PAR and DLI for her and so I purchased a PAR meter. PAR= 225 (range for seedling between 200-300). I increased light from level 6 of 10 to 7 (PAR= 265). For 18 hours on the DLI= around 17.17 (range for seedling between 13-19). since the power went out last night, they went almost 11 hours without any light and so today I will adjust their schedule for a bit. I also noticed the soil was very dry but it was already late in the light cycle. I watered anyways and will keep the lights on for a full 24 hours so that she takes up all she can get. I purchased an analog moisture meter because I don't think the digital one is accurate enough for me.
Day 23 (Feb 6) -
Temp: 71-63 F day / 69-70 F night ; RH: 58-63%. The analog moisture meter I recently purchased is showing that it is almost time to water again. After I initially transplanted to a 1 gallon pot I wished I just went straight for the 3 gallon. After the lights cut off I transferred to a 3 gallon pot to stay. I did this at night to hopefully minimize any shock to the plant. The leaves are coming in nicely but the root ball is quite small. I wonder if that is from not being watered well enough while being provided a decently humid environment. I gave it 9 oz of water (PH 6.3) just to moisten the soil. I noticed a smell starting. I cleaned my primary humidifier today.
Day 24 (Feb 7) -
Temp: 71-73 F day/ 67-69 F night; RH: 58-61%. Watered: 17 oz (no nutrients); PH 6.4; EC: 0.3. I transplanted from 1 gallon pot to 3 gallon pot after lights went out last night. I noticed a smell starting to form. I checked the soil today and it was dry. Watered with tap water that I had sitting out and aerating with air stones for about 24 hours. This is my first time using tap water and was pleased to see that the EC of my tap water is 256 uS. Since she is in a bigger pot I checked the PAR reading and it was at 300 which made my DLI too high. I lowered the light from 7 to 6 of 10. PAR reading around 280 with a DLI of 18.4.
Day 25 (Feb 8) -
Temp: 71-74 F day/ 66-69 F night; RH: 56-61%. For the last couple days I noticed that the leaves now have a lower temperature than the environment by 2 degrees F and so I have been changing the leaf offset in my automated system. I also want her to rely less on the humidity of the environment and more on her roots for water and so I want a VPD of around 1.0. I set the desired humidity to 59. This will give a VPD of around 1.0 after considering Leaf temp offset. I have been making sure that the room space heater would not shut off at night to avoid tripping a breaker but I woke up this morning to find it tripped again. I have to adjust my plan. I will try having no heater at night. I don't think the temp will get below 65 and I hope that will be okay. She is a tad taller than the other day and the DLI went up to 20.09. I noticed it was back to level 7 of 10. I raised the lights just a little bit and kept at level 7. I don't want it too close because it will just get in the way of the Co2 bag and the humidifier output.
Day 26 (Feb 9) -
Temp: 71-74 F day/ 67-70 F night; RH: 56-60%. I finally have a set of 5 point fan leaves. She is growing SO bushy. Leaves are growing in areas that aren't even fully exposed to the light. A day ago I could only smell her if my nose was practically on the leaves. Now I can smell her from about 6 inches away.
Day 27 (Feb 10) -
Temp: 71-74 F day/ 68-69 F night; RH: 58-61%. Wont need watering for another day or so. I noticed some weird deformities on the newly grown leaves. Hopefully just genetics and not something else.
Day 28 (Feb 11) -
Temp: 71-74 F day/ 67-69 F night; RH: 58-61%. No watering. Nothing to note
Day 29 (Feb 12) -
Temp: 72-74 F day/ 67-69 F night; RH: 58-61%. Watered: 540 mL (1/4 tsp nutrients); PH 6.4; EC: 0.3, Temp: 69 F. I also started adding 1/2 Tbs of Photosynthesis Plus-O by Microbe Hydroponics. This is my first time using it. It smells so strongly of rotton eggs. Although it can provide some benefit I don't know if I will want to use it again. The smell is so overpowering and lingering that it took a long time to flush it out of the mixing bowl and water pitcher. The room still smells slightly of rotton eggs. I forgot to add a tad of Gnatrol to the water mix and so I sprinkled about 1/4 tsp on top of soil. She is now 9 cm tall and is growing its fourth set of true leaves.
Day 30 (Feb 13) -
Temp: 70-74 F day / 67-69 F night; RH: 59-62%. VPD: ~1.06. Measured her- just over 10 cm. PAR= 275 / DLI= 17.82. It's growing its 4th set of true leaves. I dont know if I would consider it in veg stage yet. I will wait a little longer before I treat it as such. At that point I will start introducing more nutrients and higher DLI.
I have partially filled a bucket with tap water and put some air stones in there to circulate and aerate the water. I will leave it for over 24 hours to evaporate the chlorine but how long is too long?
tap water doesn't contain enough chlorine to cause a problem 99% of the time... so, culd be a lot of wasted effort.
the stones will help keep it agitated and prevent stagnation.
Also, if your local water uses "Chloramine" it does not evaporate quickly as chorine does. 24-48hours won't do anything in this context but waste your time.
Sunlight will break down chlroine VERY fast -- ask any pool owner. If it is chlorine, set it out on deck in sunlight for a few hours... probably enough. Again, chloamine you won't be able to get rid off without a filter of some sort.. probably an RO system to do it effectively.
my suggestion... take the easy path this time.. use straight tap and if you don't see any bonzing it's not hurting the plant in any way that matters much... indiscernable differences are not worth the effort.
I notice a decent drop off in PAR as my meter moves away from center. I have a 2x2 tent and am thinking of buying a light for a 3x3 tent that has gaps allowing for ventilation. Any thoughts?
I've just done exactly what you're thinking about doing.. I grow in a 2x4 tent and found the lights made for that size tent to be miserably small - and the ends of the tent never had enough light for anything. Took me a long time to find one but I looked for the DIMENSIONS, not the size of tent the light was "made for" ... and wow.... now I have a tent that measures 24" x 48" and my light measures 21" x 33" ... and to add to the wonderfulness, I was able to go from 200W to 450W - the DLI is perfect and my plants are super happy! I WILL tell you that the one thing you need to watch out for, if you do what you want to do, is the heat will go up quite a bit in your tent - so just allow for that, expect it and have a plan on how to deal with it if need be.
I, personally, couldn't be happier with my decision! Good luck!
Found something weird on my leaves. I need an expert's opinion and insight. I don't know if it's natural to occur on newly developing leaves or if it's an issue that needs to be addressed. I'm thinking it might be natural but it seems weird to me.
I don’t think that light at 2 feet is causing any issues.
This appears to be physical damage. Maybe a recent top/FIM? Could also be from direct fan blowing on it. Seen that where it grows weird from leaves constantly rubbing on each other.
Last but not least could be genetics. I’ve grown ILGM and this exact GDP from them. Far from the pinnacle of breeding standards. They’re business model is buy wholesale from random others and charge a pop because they offer 100% germination guarantee. It’s nice but when your crops constantly throwing nanners, it’s not worth it. Just my experience.
I saw this on one of my bottom leaves this morning. Hopefully someone can give insight of what it might be. I'm concerned that it is phosphorous deficiency. I didn't notice it a day ago, but I wasn't looking closely. 2 days ago I watered her (540 mL, 1/4 tsp nutrients). Thoughts?
I see what your showing but that's just a minor genetic defect, which isn't anything to worry about...The color difference isn't significant enough to be worried they're very healthy and seem to be thriving well, keep up the good work...Good luck
-Day 31 (Feb 14) -
Temp: 72-74 F day / 68-70 F night. RH: 58-61 %. VPD: 0.9-1.1. Growing taller every day. I noticed some discoloration on one of the very bottom leaves, but I think it is just another genetic feature of this mutant plant.
Day 32 (Feb 15) -
Temp: 71-74 F day / 67-69 F night. RH: 57-60 %. VPD: 0.8-1.1. Grew 2cm in a day. I saw the first set of 7 point fan leaves. Beautiful.
Day 33 (Feb 16) -
Temp: 71-74 F day / 67-70 F night. RH: 57-60%. VPD: 0.9-1.1
Day 34 (Feb 17) -
Temp: 71-74 F Day / 68-70 F night. RH: 54-63 %. VPD: 0.9-1.29. Adjusted light to increase PAR and DLI. PAR: 310 / DLI: 20.09
Day 35 (Feb 18) -
Temp: 71-77 F day / 68-70 F night. RH: 50-62 %. I got tired of the small tent I was using and so I set up a new and bigger tent. The transition caused the temp and humidity to fluctuate more than normal.
Day 36 (Feb 19) -
Temp: 71-75 F day / 67-69 F night. RH: 54-65%. VPD: 0.81-1.29. Increased PAR to 325 (DLI: 21.06)
Day 37 (Feb 20) -
Temp: 75.0-82.4 F day / 70.9-79.3 F night. RH: 48.2-58%. VPD: 1.17-1.96. WATERED: 600 mL (1.2 mL nutrients) / EC: 1.2 / PH 6.39 / Runoff PH: 6.30. Somehow the heater kicked on in the middle of the night and raised the temp into the 80s by early morning. causing a major spike in the VPD. I opened a window and turned on extra fans but it took several hours to bring the temp down.
Day 38 (Feb 21) -
Temp: 70.8-75.5 F Day / 69.2-74.6 F night. RH: 53.6-64.7 %. VPD: 0.9-1.32. PAR: 330 / DLI: 21.38. Today I shortened the distance between her and the lamp to increase PAR to 330. I also installed a Co2 monitor.
Day 39 (Feb 22) -
Temp: 72.5-75.4 F day / 68.0-70.2 F night. RH:56.0-62.8 % . VPD: 0.96-1.23 kPa .WATERED: 640mL / 70 degrees F. 0.9 EC. PH: 6.44. Today I followed someone's advice and clipped 2 of the top leaves that was blocking light from getting to leaves below them. I'm having second thoughts about it, but we'll see how she does. She is already a bushy beast. Several nodes hidden from the light have been forming fan leaves.
Day 40 (Feb 23) -
Temp: 70.4-75.1 F day / 67.9-70.3 F night. RH: 54.1-61.8. VPD: 0.87-1.26. Grew 3.5 cm in 1 day. WATERED: 940mL (1/3 tsp nutrients) / PH 6.29 / EC: 1100 / temp: 70 F. VPD: center is 345. All 4 sides are 302 / DLI: 22.36 and 19.57. I would like the 4 sides to have a higher DLI but I would prefer the center to have less. I checked the PH in the soil and it came out to an average of 6.07 of 3 test spots with a range between 6.00 and 6.20. This is the first time that my moisture meter indicated dry soil after 1 day of watering and so I am concerned that I gave it too much water in too short a period of time. I got curious about PH and EC affect that my nutrients have and found that 1/4 tsp = - 0.59 PH and + 338 uS EC. Today I changed the target humidity from 60 to 57. I just noticed a few of the top leaves have yellow tips. I raised the light a bit because I think it might be light burn. It lowered the PAR from 345 in center to a PAR of 320. The sides are around 300.
Day 41 (Feb 24) -
Temp: 70.7-74.7 F day / 67.9-69.9 F night. RH: 53.2-62.5 % VPD: 0.74-1.12
Day 42 (Feb 25) -
Temp: 71.2-74.9 F day / 67.9-69.7 F night. RH: 54.2-60.3%. VPD: 0.70-1.04.WATERED (700 mL, 1/4 tsp nutrients, EC: 870 uS, PH: 6.39, temp: 70 F)
Day 43 (Feb 26) -
Temp: 71.0-74.7 F day / 67.5-69.7 F night. RH: 51.2-63.5 %. VPD: 0.76-1.12. PAR: 370 in center ; 345 on sides / DLI= 23.98 in center and 22.36 on sides. The light is only 33 cm (13 inches) from the plant, but I don't see any signs of light burn. I might move it tomorrow depending on how much she grows by then and if any light burn signs develop.
Day 44 (Feb 27) -
Temp: 71.0-76 F day / 67.9-69.0 F night. RH: 54.3-60.6 %. VPD: 0.74-1.16. WATERED: 1000 mL (PH 6.35, EC 135 uS, TEMP 69 F). I wanted to go another day between watering but the soil was so dry this morning that I didn't feel comfortable waiting any longer. I tested the runoff for PH and EC. PH= 6.29 and EC = 2.86 mS. The PH result looks good compared to 6.35 going in. I wonder what the EC indicates considering it is so much higher than the water I just gave. There was a decent amount of soil in the runoff that was tested which may be the reason for the high amount. I just hope that it isn't bad for the number to be so much higher. I raised the lights a little bit and increased its level from 2 to 3 to keep PAR at 370 in center and 320 on sides.
Was checking leaf temps all over and at the very bottom first 3 point fan leaf that she ever grew I noticed the center leaf crispy at the tip with some light green spots around it. The only other leaves that look like this are the single first true leaves. Thoughts?
Think of that first set of single and 3-fingered leaves a bit like baby teeth. The plant is shedding them once heavily shielded... maybe 10% about how it's fed, but it's going to happen most times once they are well-shielded. from light. old leaves can mottle and show symptoms.
I think the plant is just sucking it of nutrients... how it progresses may or may not hint at something that is slightly off -- depends on how selectively the plantn can call for mobile nutrients... if it's all or nothing it'd show nothing... if it is selective in anyway, what you see occur first could hint at something you could bump up slightly. trial and error.. take soem notes if it jives later with first symptoms seen, if any, try it.
These leaves can definitely stay healthier longer, but sometimes plants do shed them more easily than others plants. i usually lop'em off before flower period but most are quite healthy, occassionally some are shed before that point... i figure it's either genetic variety or the nutes were just a littl emore spot on to retain them.. no need to shed dead weight if still productive to the plant. plants shed dead-weight.
The plant looks relatively healthy, otherwise, so i wouldn't react unless these symtpms spread further.
I water every other day. So far I have been using nutrients to bring my water up to the proper EC (ppm). It is always a VERY small amount (1/2 tsp). I haven't noticed any signs of toxicity but I wanted to hear your opinion of my approach and changes that I could/should make
As @gottagrowsometime and @growinggrannie have said - you should alternate between plain water and nutrient solution, otherwise you'll get a salt build up and the plants will lock out. This is very important. Soil retains a lot more nutrients (and water!) than any other grow medium. You should water to about 20% run-off for the same reason - don't let the pot sit in it's own run-off water.
Unless it is particularly hot, when growing with soil I generally only water or feed every 3 days or so during veg in 18L fabric pots. Pick up your pots regularly and you will know from the weight whether they need watering or not.
Sorry to repeat what others have said, but if we're all saying it, at least you know we're probably knocking on the right door! :)
2 fairly new leaves at top (opposite ends) seem to show signs of light burn (yellow tips). They recently turned a bit more green but the tips are still quite yellow. Light = 13 inches away. PAR 370 at center, 350 on sides. DLI=~ 22.5. CO2 bag in tent (at about 620). Thoughts?
Definitely not light burn at those levels, but i think your calculation of DLI is off. Tip burn can be deficiency or tox, so more charactersitics need to be considered. So, don't just assume one thing. need to eliminate possibiities.
if this is the 250w AC infinity light. they are a bit light on diode count, which impacts longevity and efficacy, but the the umol/s are much higher than what you seem to be measuring in a smaller space.
Their specs on ppfd are utter bullshit, good to ignore those.
According to efficacy, which seems a bit high given how hard thery drive the iodes at 2x the samsung spec sheet, is 715umol/s -- so lets chop that back to something more realistic.. 2.5umol/j*260w/s = 650umol/s is much better
650umol/s covering 1 m^2 is 650PPFD and over 18 horus per day would provide 42.1 DLI, which definitely could burn the plant. I think your DLI calculations are wrong, here, because i doubt you are covering an entire m^2, and if light is closer to cover a smaller area, the more focused beam angle will result in a higher PPFD/DLI -- it's relative to m^2 and hours of use so you can compare apples to apples using DLI.
Use that light at about 20-24" and it'll probably solve the problem, if actually caused by too much light, which i still do not beleive is the case. Your node spacing is fine. This is more likely nute-related.
Whether it stays at teh tips or continues along the edge can help discern what it is... you may need to let this progress a little further to be more certain. P-tox and S-tox can caused burns at tips. K-def will spread to serrations as well as tip all along outer edge of leaf. If this has happened slowly, it's important to only make a small adjustment, and let it play out before re-assessing it.
Small issues are fine.. you can be patient. unless you have more pertinent info than what is listed here, i'd see how it progresses and using that to further discern the actual cause.
PPFD divide 650 by your area of coverate (technically dictated by height and beam angle, but tent walls help focus it.. figure DLI will be slightly lower than what is calculated but not by huge amounts)... if less than m^2 you have a higher ppfd than umol/s produced. PPFD is what you use when referencing DLI chart with hours per day of use.
Above 40 is a grey area for atmospheric co2... properly boosted co2 shoudl allow upto 50-60 DLI. if you are at 600ppm and it's not allowing even 40DLI without issues, then that's more evidence the co2 isn't effective as-is.
I'm annoyed by having to post another question but oh well. Yesterday evening I increased the PAR from 370 to 400 in center. This morning the top fan leaves were pointing straight up and so I raised the lights a little. I later looked and saw discoloration. Light burn?
I would tend to agree with ya, just do what your doing for a couple days and see if they get worse it could be a minor magnesium deficiency and if so a bit of Calmag or Epson salt tsp per 3.6 L should bring it around..
This A.M I treated her with a cal-mag mix due to yellow leaves. Today the leaf showing symptoms "tacoed" a little bit and the tip curled upwards. Same symptom on a few other leaves but only on the tips. Iron deficiency perhaps? PH'd soil on 3 spots: 6.6, 6.18, 6.3. What to do????
If you're talking about the tips of the leaves being yellow, that's nute burn... and a very mild nute burn to boot... and nothing that calmag is going to do anything for... and nothing to worry about. The tacoing is different. Tacoing says your plant is too hot and is most likely caused by your lights being either too close or too intense... Raise your lights at least 3" or dim them somewhat... They should straighten out and be fine.
If you're worried about the new growth being a lighter green than the old growth - don't. That's perfectly normal and a healthy sign. They will darken as they age.
Good luck...
Day 45 (Feb 28) -
Temp: 72-76 F day / 68-70 F night. RH: 55.3-61%. VPD: 0.87-1.1. PAR: 375 center, 345 on sides / DLI: 24.3 , 22.36. I think I'm stressing her out a bit by having the VPD frequently above 1.0 resulting in her relying on water from roots so much. I decided to up the target RH to 60. I also decided to target the temp around 74-75 to help her take in Co2. Both of these targets will result in a VPD frequently around 0.85. I also plan to have her DLI up to around 30 by the end of this week. I hope that isn't too fast of an increase considering PAR will go from 375 in center to 463. Based on some information that I read, Ill need to reach a DLI of around 37.5 by end of veg. At end of day I increased light settings for tomorrow: Changed from level 3 of 10 to 4. PAR= 400 in center and 370 on sides / DLI= 25.92 , 23.98. I trimmed a couple of the lower leaves earlier in the day.
Day 46 (March 1) -
Temp: 72-76 F day / 67-70.8 F night. RH: 54.4-64.4%. VPD: 0.67-1.05 . This morning 2 of the top fan leaves were in praying position. I initially thought it was because she was getting too much light, but apparently what I saw was a good sign. HOWEVER, I also noticed some yellow discoloration growing on 2 of the leaves. This could be light burn but also a calcium/magnesium deficiency. This morning the PAR reading was around 460 and so I raised the lights this morning prior to noticing the growing discoloration. PAR is now at 400. This evening as I was checking the leaves I saw some water build up between 2 of the lower leaves. I ended up doing an impromptu defoliation to minimize possibility of mildew on leaves.
Day 47 (March 2) -
Temp: 71.6-76.4 F day / 68-71.8 F night. RH: 55-62.1%. VPD: 0.79-1.16. WATERED: 64 oz (1.9 L) (Ph in 6.38 / EC 1040 uS / Ph out 5.85). This morning I fed with Soul Grow and some cal mag supplement. Today was the most water I gave her at one feed. This is the first time I noticed a big difference in PH in and PH runoff. Later in the day I noticed the yellowing of some of the leaves diminish. This evening I noticed that the leaf showing signs of calcium or magnesium deficiency "tacoed" a little bit and the tip curled upwards. Tips on a couple other leaves are yellow and curled upwards. I think what I might have is an iron deficiency. I took a soil PH tester and tested 3 different spots in the soil with strange results. The first spot was 6.6, second was 6.16 and the third was 6.3. Not sure what to do with that information.
Day 48 (March 3) -
Temp: 73-764. F Day / 68.8-72.6 F night. RH: 54.6-63.2%. VPD: 0.77-1.16. WATERED: 940mL (PH 6.35, 70 F degrees, no nutrients). I was concerned about nute burn and so I gave it a little flush in the morning with some tap water that I had aerating in a bucket overnight. I didn't want to give too much water considering I just watered the day prior, but I wanted to minimize the nute damage somehow.
Day 49 (March 4) -
Temp: 72.7-76.9 F day / 68.8-72.8 F night. RH: 55.7-63.7%. VPD: 0.77-1.10. PAR: 445 at center, 410 on sides (DLI= 28.84, 26.57). Kept a close eye on the state of the leaves throughout the day. She is growing fast but the yellow hasn't gone away. Ill keep monitoring for now. Just before lights went out I decided to top her. A bit late to do that but at least it was before flower.
Day 50 (March 5) -
Temp: 72.1-75.8 F day / 68.1-70.1 F night. RH: 56.8-61.1%. VPD: 0.79-1.25
Day 51 (March 6) -
Temp: 73-78 F day / 68.9-70.9 F night. RH: 56.9-63.9 % . VPD: 0.87-1.36. WATERED: 2.77 L (PH ??, 70 F degrees, 0.25 mL Kelp, tiny drop of silica). I prepared 64 oz of water with kelp and a drop of silica and forgot to check the PH prior to feeding. My tap water PH is normally around 8. I didn't get enough runoff water to test. I gave 880 mL more water at a PH of 6 to hopefully balance it out. I got plenty of runoff water this time with a PH of 5.98. OOPS!! Silly me. I hope I didn't totally mess things up.
I have recently been presented with the concept of "dipping": submerging fabric pot in solution for about 8 seconds and then picking up to drain. It is intriguing to me but I am curious about it causing overwatering or root rot. Thoughts?
It's like feeding from the bottom when drying out the top to get rid of gnats. They suggest to just do it with water. Not nutrients. Now. I'm not saying it wouldn't work.
But, it'll have issues. And you'll have to end up feeding from the top to fix it. And keeping that material wet all the time. Would cause rot for sure.
And, another reason, why would you won't to cause yourself the hassle. As I said. You'll have to feed the top, jst to get up fixing issues.
Good growing.
And through a fabric pot..hmmm.. it wouldn't surprise me. If some nutrients markers would be distributed.
And, it would show up as overfeeding, manly yellowing on the outside of your leafs.
When is a good time to start pruning? She is about 10 inches tall and is short and VERY bushy. Has several leaves hidden from light and so I am thinking of pruning today. However I don't want to do it too soon. So far my pruning has been VERY minimal. Thoughts?
you can alwys remove things, but they dont always grow back later... as long as you consider that part, it's okay to do.
i'd probably look for any overlapping leaves with condensation forming... this would be a problem area. Don't just remove one without looking at what it does... Say you have 2 choices of 2 overlapping leaves you deam too congested... which one gives light to an axillary growth or just more leaves? both are good but one is more beneficial. Also, don't create holes in canopy where lots of light just passes through without hitting any leaves... unles it will grow back quickly, it's going to negatively affect potential growth rate.
high humidity trapped by leaves is a risk.. so airflow is important... leaves power growth, so sthey are important... both are important.. lol..
consider the whole picture when making decisions.
Day 52 (March 7) -
Temp: 73-78.2 F day / 68-70.8 F night. RH: 56.2-63.0 %. VPD: 0.72-1.08. Tonight I did the most elaborate defoliation she has every received. Then I sprayed her with some PH'd water with a drop of silica after lights were off. She now looks the way I feel she should but I hope I didn't overdo it with the pruning.
Day 53 (March 8) -
Temp: 72-89.8 F day / 69-72.4 F night. RH:43.5-70 %. VPD: 0.52-2.22.
At some point in the morning the heater kicked on for about 2 hours before I noticed it and shut it off. It caused the temp to skyrocket and the exhaust fan to kick in to high gear also resulting in lower humidity.
Day 54 (March 9) -
Temp: 72.3-75.1 F day / 70-73.3 F night. RH: 54.5-60.3 %. VPD: 0.79-1.04. It doesn't seem like yesterday's temp and RH issue fazed her. She is growing really well right now.
Day 55 (March 10) -
Temp: 72-76 F day / 69-71 F night. RH: 54-58%. VPD??. WATERED: 64 oz (1.9 L), PH 6.28, EC 760 uS, temp 68 F, 1.2 tsp nutrients, Runoff PH 6.3
Day 56 (March 11) -
Temp: 72-79 F day / 69-71 F night. RH: 52-58%. VPD??. The room was abnormally hot. It was hard to control. I received a replacement controller in the mail today and set it up but unfortunately it meant I had to lose some of the environment data. for the day.
Day 57 (March 12) -
Temp: 73-79.2 F day / 69-71 F night. RH: 52-57.4. VPD: 0.88-1.25. Last night after the lights went out I adjusted target humidity down from 57 to 55. I also installed an extra light to cover the entire tent. I also removed all the light drivers from inside the tent and placed them on a rack outside of the tent to help moderate the temperature. This morning I noticed that the LEDs still provide so much heat that the temperature was up around 78 F. I increased the exhaust fan speed to see what speed would lower it to the desired temp ( if possible). It is usually set on 3 but I went as high as 6 and it didn't do much. I decided to remove the extra light altogether and put the light setup back the way it originally was but I raised the lights to 44.5 cm above canopy. PAR: 420 in center, 380 on sides. I increased light intensity from level 4 to level 5. PAR: 490 in center, 420 on sides ; DLI: 31.75 , 27.22. I defoliated 5 days ago but she is such a bush I defoliated her again tonight. I don't plan on flipping to flower for at least another week.
Day 58 (March 13) -
Temp: 73-78.9 F day / 68-69.7 F night. RH: 53-59.6. VPD: 0.88-1.45. WATERED: 64 oz (1.9 L), PH 6.25, 70 degrees F. Runoff PH 6.28. NO NUTRIENTS.
I have AC Infinity set up. I am wondering whether I should have the humidity triggers set up for VPD or continue with RH triggers. So far I have it triggered when humidity gets a tad low. If I trigger for VPD, I think I will have to constantly check leaf temp. Thoughts?
You answered it yourself basically my friend. I would keep the temp and rh in constant check above all and then just use a vpd calculator daily to see what you're hitting.
Day 59 (March 14) -
Temp: 72.2-76.1 F day / 67-69.3 F night. RH: 53.8-58.2 . VPD: 0.96-1.40.
Day 60 (March 15) -
Temp: 71.0-75.1 F day /67.0-70.5 F night. RH: 53.0-57.2. VPD: 0.89-1.23.
Day 61 (March 16) -
Temp: 72.8-75.0 F day / 68-72.8 F night. RH: 52.0-56.0. VPD: 0.98-1.26. WATERED: 64 oz (1.9 L), PH 6.30, 70 degrees F. Runoff PH 6.35. NO NUTRIENTS
Day 62 (March 17) -
Temp: 72.6-87.8 F day / 77.8-82.1 F night. RH: 41.8-59.7. VPD: 1.08-2.38. After a software update to the controller in the evening, it kicked the heater on without me knowing. It got so hot it triggered the exhaust fan to increase speed thus reducing the humidity. It doesn't seem to have fazed the lady much.
Day 63 (March 18) -
Temp: 73.3-76.2F day / 69.6-72.9 F night. RH: 53.9-66.6. VPD: 0.72-1.28.
Day 64 (March 19) -
Temp: 70.1-79.5 F day / 69.3-72.2 F night. RH: 53.1-60.6. VPD: 0.95-1.58. WATERED: 1.32 L. PH 6.30, 75 degrees F. NO NUTRIENTS. Performed some low stress training by tying down some branches to expose lower branches that were not getting light. I increased the light level from 5 of 10 to 6 of 10. PAR: 509 in center and 460 on sides. DLI= 32.98 and 29.81. Its growth slowed down a little bit for the past week. It might be due to not feeding much nutrients a week ago, but she has been so sensitive to the nutrients that I can barely give her any without showing signs of overfeeding. I set up the bars that I will use for Scrog net and i hope that within the next week it will be useful. I checked the leaf temp and it was 78 while temp was 76. The leaves are hanging down a bit too. This was prior to me watering. The soil was dry and so I gave her a little water. This is the first time the leaf temp was higher than ambient temp. I think it was all because of the temperature issue I had a couple days ago.
Day 65 (March 20) -
Temp: 72.4-75.5 F day / 69-72.9 F night. RH: 54.0-68.1. VPD: 1.01-1.29. I lowered the light level from 6 to 5 to manage temperature for a little bit until I can get a more stable way to maintain room temperature. I changed the humidifier auto trigger settings to focus on VPD instead of just RH. Trigger is 1.2 kPa and above. This is because 1) I noticed the leaves were drooping the last few days (not from over watering; most likely from the recent temp issues) and 2) because the leaf temp was above ambient temperature. This evening I saw that the leaf temp is 1 degree below room temp and the leaves are quite perky. I'm relieved.
Day 66 (March 21) -
Temp: 74.2-75.2 F day / 68.8-71.9 F night. RH: 52.9-61.3 . VPD: 0.88-1.34. Today I decided to correct my rookie mistake of having the exhausted air come right back into the room that the grow tent was in. I installed an ac exhaust window kit and connected the tent's exhaust line to it. However the windy day caused some air to come into the tent from outside and so I had to create a temporary backdraft dampener. The temperature during the day was much more manageable. I hope it will stay that way during the cold night also.
Day 67 (March 22) -
Temp: 72.9-76.1 F day / 67.2-69.4 F night. RH: 53.8-62.6. VPD: 0.87-1.40. WATERED: 64 OZ (1.9 L) , PH: 6.25 , EC: 1186 uS , Temp: 69 F , 5 mL NUTRIENTS, 15 mL KELP, Runoff PH: 6.4.
Day 68 (March 23) -
Temp: 71.4-75.4 F day / 66.9-73.2 F night. RH: 54.2-72.9. VPD: 0.61-1.29.
Day 69 (March 24) -
Temp: 71.6-74.8 F day / 67.0-70.7 F night. RH: 50.0-64.2. VPD: 0.78-1.24.
Day 70 (March 25) -
Temp: 72.5-83.0 F day / 71.9-75.6 F night. RH: 41.7-61.7. VPD: 0.95-2.08. WATERED: 64 OZ (1.9 L) , PH: 6.28 , Temp: 71.0 F. NO NUTRIENTS . The temperature spiked up to 83 F this morning again causing exhaust fan to crank up and lower humidity.😠 Thankfully it was only for about an hour. I cant seem to figure out exactly why the heater will sometimes get triggered on and stay on. It appears that some of the auto trigger settings change on their own. Maybe from the controller updating itself?? I MUST make sure to have the heater manually turned off prior to going to sleep so this doesn't happen again.
Day 71 (March 26) -
Temp: 71.6-75.5 F day / 67.7-71.7 F night. RH: 50.3-60.7. VPD: 0.80-1.31. PAR: 580. DLI: 37.5. She grew a couple inches on a few days. I measured her PAR this morning: 630. I raised the lights again to get the PAR e-ding of 580 / DLI: 37.5. Hopefully the DLI isn't too high. I also noticed some liquid in the Co2 bag. My feeling is that that is not normal and is probably from the humidity in the tent making its way into the bag. Co2 is at least 1000 on the floor; therefore I think the plant is definitely getting enough Co2. Today I set up the trellis net and also implemented some DIY tubes to raise the height of the humidifier spouts.
Day 72 (March 27) -
Temp: 72.2-75.7 F day / 68.9-72.0 F night. RH: 50.9-62.6%. VPD: 0.92-1.24 kPa. WATERED: 64 OZ (1.9 L) , PH: 6.32 , Temp: 70.2 F. NO NUTRIENTS . Currently keeping the target VPD to 1.1 KPa. I plan to increase the VPD to 1.2 once most of the branches grow past the scrog net. It might be a few weeks before that happens. This seems to be quite a long veg state. Oh well.
Day 73 (March 28) -
Temp: 70.7-76.5 F Day / 66.9-68.3 F Night. RH: 53.2-67.3%. VPD: 0.74-1.22 kPa. For the last 3 days I have been trying to make adjustments to my humidifiers' locations and alterations to their spouts to make sure that every part of the plant experiences a decent humidity range. The problem I have run into is trying to manage the overlap that causes a spike on 1 side more than the other. The bendable tubes that come with the humidifiers aren't any good to use because either they drip water out of the hose or they fill up with water at the bend. I have been experimenting with PVC plumbing pipe parts bought from the hardware store to get a good position. I also decided to top some of the branches that were way higher than the others shading them from getting light. This way all branches are exposed with hopes that the shorter ones will catch up. After topping I sprayed the leaves with water mist mixed with a drop of silica.
Day 74 (March 29) -
Temp: 70.0-74.5 F Day / 68.0-69.8 F Night. RH: 50.0-59.8%. VPD: 0.95-1.18 kPa. WATERED: 64 OZ (1.9 L) , PH: 6.29 , Temp: 70 F. NO NUTRIENTS. I used some more twist tie to spread out some branches to minimize light blockage. After yesterday's topping the leaves aren't quite up to the Scrog net yet.
Day 75 (March 30) -
Temp: 71.6-74.2 F Day / 66.0-68.5 F Night. RH: 50.5-60.2%. VPD: 0.88-1.24 kPa.
Day 76 (March 31) -
Temp: 72.2-76.2 F Day / 62.6-67.8 F Night. RH: 53.3-79.6%. VPD: 0.32-1.22 kPa. At night the controller changed the humidifier setting from auto to ON. Very high humidity for a couple hours at night.
Day 77 (April 1) -
Temp: 72.0-76.0 F Day / 68.0-70.3 F Night. RH: 48.9-60.8%. VPD: 1.00-1.46 kPa. WATERED: 2 L. PH: 6.28 , EC: 1100 uS , Temp: 69 F, NUTRIENTS: 4.92 mL Grow, 6.75 mL Kelp. Randomly, during about an hour and half in the morning the controller turned the humidifier from auto to off resulting in very high VPD. There are definitely some bugs in the controller that need to be worked out because it seems to change random trigger settings once or twice a day. Im thankful that I have the heater physically turned off because it gets triggered at some point every night even though I set it to OFF on the controller.
Day 78 (April 2) -
Temp: 70.3-77.0 F Day / 69.1-72.7 F Night. RH: 48.1-65.1%. VPD: 0.79-1.46 kPa.
Day 79 (April 3) -
Temp: 71.5-76.2 F Day / 67.0-69.8 F Night. RH: 49.9-63.9%. VPD: 0.94-1.40 kPa.
Day 80 (April 4) -
Temp: 69.6-76.3 F Day / 69.5-72.2 F Night. RH: 51.0-58.4%. VPD: 0.91-1.19 kPa. PAR: 520 in center / 450 on sides ; DLI: 33.7 / 29.16. WATERED: 2 L ; PH 6.25, 71.8 F, Runoff PH: 6.50. I checked the soil PH prior to watering: 6.8. I saw several leaves curling over which is a symptom of shading itself from getting too much light. Raised light to lower PAR. post movement: Par - 500 center / 420 sides. DLI: 32.4 / 27.22
Day 81 (April 5) -
Temp: 71.0-75.3 F Day / 68.4-70.7 F Night. RH: 52.5-64.6%. VPD: 0.86-1.16 kPa.
Day 82 (April 6) -
Temp: 71.9-75.4 F Day / 69.0-73.0 F Night. RH: 52.8-64.6%. VPD: 0.95-1.26 kPa.
Day 83 (April 7) -
Temp: 71.9-75.8 F Day / 70.5-73.4 F Night. RH: 54.1-63.5%. VPD: 0.95-1.23 kPa.
Day 84 (April 8) -
Temp: 72.1-75.3 F Day / 69.0-73.8 F Night. RH: 55.5-65.2%. VPD: 0.92-1.19 kPa. WATERED: 1.9 L ; PH 6.25, 69.4 F, Runoff PH: 6.59.
Day 85 (April 9) -
Temp: 73.0-74.3 F Day / 67.0-69.5 F Night. RH: 52.0-65.4%. VPD: 0.95-1.17 kPa.
Day 86 (April 10) -
Temp: 73.4-75.9 F Day / 68.9-70.5 F Night. RH: 53.0-66.0%. VPD: 0.98-1.19 kPa. I checked Soil PH - ranging from 6.3 to 6.6 depending on where you test. PAR: between 400 to 530 / DLI: 25.92-34.34. She is VERY sensitive to nutrients and so I removed some leaves that showed signs of nute burn.
Day 87 (April 11) -
Temp: 72.4-75.8 F Day / 69.4-71.6 F night. RH: 52.9-67.2%. VPD: 0.97-1.22 kPa. WATERED: [ 1.8 L. PH: 6.28. EC: 856 uS. Temp: 70.0 F. NUTRIENTS: 3 mL]. There was no runoff. I see over and over suggestions to water until 10% runoff. However since she can get nute burn easily I didn't want to water any more than planned. Although she can get nute burn easily, I noticed with this feeding that she was nutrient deficient. I waited about a week and half between feeding nutes because she got too much last time and I didn't want to make it worse. I plan to give nutes a week from now at about the same EC as before.
Day 88 (April 12) -
Temp: 71.4-73.8 F Day / 68.0-69.8 F night. RH: 52.0-65.7%. VPD: 0.92-1.17 kPa.
Day 89 (April 13) -
Temp: 71.7-73.6 F Day / 67.9-70.9 F night. RH: 51.9-64.7%. VPD: 0.94-1.17 kPa. PAR: 560 in center: 460 on sides. DLI: 36.29 / 29.81. I would prefer the DLI to be a bit lower but the lights are raised about as high as they can go and I don't want to turn them down. I installed a drain tray that is designed to direct runoff water out into a container making collecting the runoff SO much easier.
Day 90 (April 14) -
Temp: 73.0-74.8 F Day / 69.0-72.4 F night. RH: 52.0-65.4%. VPD: 0.96-1.16 kPa. WATERED: [ 1.9 L. PH: 6.30. Temp: 70.2 F. NO NUTRIENTS. Runoff PH: 6.27].
Day 93 (April 17) -
TODAY IS A SAD DAY! DUE TO ISSUES WITH A HOUSEMATE I HAD TO THROW THE PLANT OUT. GROWING PUT ON PAUSE FOR NOW BUT IT WAS A GOOD LEARNING EXPERIENCE SO FAR. WILL COME BACK STRONGER NEXT TIME.😭
laberg
