GDP- Second attempt

a seed typical germinates under the substrate and when it sprouts (breaks ground) it's a seedling. somemethods of germination make this a bit of a grey area, so if you don't plant direclty in substrate, i'd say the moment most shed their shells and 'developed' leaves pop out. since you end up burying the tap root and having teh sprout already above ground from get-go. you got a live sprout, so it's a seedling. Even though some of these disctintions have a specific definition, it's more about observation of maturity of any single plant. some demand more light sooner... as far as i'm concerned if the plant is acting like a mature plant it is a mature plant regardless of a definition not directly tied to causality and justmeant as a general guide as opposed to written in stone in this case. grey areas... thnk of how we describe/definie human development and how much variation there is from those categorizations. some go through puberty at 12 others 14... same with plants although less complicated dynamics with a less complicated lifeform.

What you have it at sounds perfect. GDP loves humidity, even when flowering. When i pop new GDP seeds, my environment is usually 75F and 60% humidity. They grow just fine and i don't really feel like i need to change it. With this cultivar, i like to drop temperature with humidity during flower. The last week of flower i try to have my temperature at low 70s during lights on and low 60s during lights off with a RH of around 20%-30%. Just my personal preference, though. Every grower is different. If you're new here, please select the answer that helped you out the most by clicking on the "answer" button underneath what the person said. If you have any questions, feel free to message me on here. You can pull up your messages tab by clicking on the little airplane in a bubble. It's located on the bottom-right of your screen. I hope this helps!

It is nothing, you are over thinking this.

I think you're looking too closely at your plant. Relax... it's a weed... and it's not going to die. This is most likely a couple of drops of water that were splashed on the leaf and left to dry/burn under the lights... It is honestly nothing to worry about. Good luck...

tap water doesn't contain enough chlorine to cause a problem 99% of the time... so, culd be a lot of wasted effort. the stones will help keep it agitated and prevent stagnation. Also, if your local water uses "Chloramine" it does not evaporate quickly as chorine does. 24-48hours won't do anything in this context but waste your time. Sunlight will break down chlroine VERY fast -- ask any pool owner. If it is chlorine, set it out on deck in sunlight for a few hours... probably enough. Again, chloamine you won't be able to get rid off without a filter of some sort.. probably an RO system to do it effectively. my suggestion... take the easy path this time.. use straight tap and if you don't see any bonzing it's not hurting the plant in any way that matters much... indiscernable differences are not worth the effort.

I've just done exactly what you're thinking about doing.. I grow in a 2x4 tent and found the lights made for that size tent to be miserably small - and the ends of the tent never had enough light for anything. Took me a long time to find one but I looked for the DIMENSIONS, not the size of tent the light was "made for" ... and wow.... now I have a tent that measures 24" x 48" and my light measures 21" x 33" ... and to add to the wonderfulness, I was able to go from 200W to 450W - the DLI is perfect and my plants are super happy! I WILL tell you that the one thing you need to watch out for, if you do what you want to do, is the heat will go up quite a bit in your tent - so just allow for that, expect it and have a plan on how to deal with it if need be. I, personally, couldn't be happier with my decision! Good luck!

I don’t think that light at 2 feet is causing any issues. This appears to be physical damage. Maybe a recent top/FIM? Could also be from direct fan blowing on it. Seen that where it grows weird from leaves constantly rubbing on each other. Last but not least could be genetics. I’ve grown ILGM and this exact GDP from them. Far from the pinnacle of breeding standards. They’re business model is buy wholesale from random others and charge a pop because they offer 100% germination guarantee. It’s nice but when your crops constantly throwing nanners, it’s not worth it. Just my experience.

I see what your showing but that's just a minor genetic defect, which isn't anything to worry about...The color difference isn't significant enough to be worried they're very healthy and seem to be thriving well, keep up the good work...Good luck

Think of that first set of single and 3-fingered leaves a bit like baby teeth. The plant is shedding them once heavily shielded... maybe 10% about how it's fed, but it's going to happen most times once they are well-shielded. from light. old leaves can mottle and show symptoms. I think the plant is just sucking it of nutrients... how it progresses may or may not hint at something that is slightly off -- depends on how selectively the plantn can call for mobile nutrients... if it's all or nothing it'd show nothing... if it is selective in anyway, what you see occur first could hint at something you could bump up slightly. trial and error.. take soem notes if it jives later with first symptoms seen, if any, try it. These leaves can definitely stay healthier longer, but sometimes plants do shed them more easily than others plants. i usually lop'em off before flower period but most are quite healthy, occassionally some are shed before that point... i figure it's either genetic variety or the nutes were just a littl emore spot on to retain them.. no need to shed dead weight if still productive to the plant. plants shed dead-weight. The plant looks relatively healthy, otherwise, so i wouldn't react unless these symtpms spread further.

As @gottagrowsometime and @growinggrannie have said - you should alternate between plain water and nutrient solution, otherwise you'll get a salt build up and the plants will lock out. This is very important. Soil retains a lot more nutrients (and water!) than any other grow medium. You should water to about 20% run-off for the same reason - don't let the pot sit in it's own run-off water. Unless it is particularly hot, when growing with soil I generally only water or feed every 3 days or so during veg in 18L fabric pots. Pick up your pots regularly and you will know from the weight whether they need watering or not. Sorry to repeat what others have said, but if we're all saying it, at least you know we're probably knocking on the right door! :)

Definitely not light burn at those levels, but i think your calculation of DLI is off. Tip burn can be deficiency or tox, so more charactersitics need to be considered. So, don't just assume one thing. need to eliminate possibiities. if this is the 250w AC infinity light. they are a bit light on diode count, which impacts longevity and efficacy, but the the umol/s are much higher than what you seem to be measuring in a smaller space. Their specs on ppfd are utter bullshit, good to ignore those. According to efficacy, which seems a bit high given how hard thery drive the iodes at 2x the samsung spec sheet, is 715umol/s -- so lets chop that back to something more realistic.. 2.5umol/j*260w/s = 650umol/s is much better 650umol/s covering 1 m^2 is 650PPFD and over 18 horus per day would provide 42.1 DLI, which definitely could burn the plant. I think your DLI calculations are wrong, here, because i doubt you are covering an entire m^2, and if light is closer to cover a smaller area, the more focused beam angle will result in a higher PPFD/DLI -- it's relative to m^2 and hours of use so you can compare apples to apples using DLI. Use that light at about 20-24" and it'll probably solve the problem, if actually caused by too much light, which i still do not beleive is the case. Your node spacing is fine. This is more likely nute-related. Whether it stays at teh tips or continues along the edge can help discern what it is... you may need to let this progress a little further to be more certain. P-tox and S-tox can caused burns at tips. K-def will spread to serrations as well as tip all along outer edge of leaf. If this has happened slowly, it's important to only make a small adjustment, and let it play out before re-assessing it. Small issues are fine.. you can be patient. unless you have more pertinent info than what is listed here, i'd see how it progresses and using that to further discern the actual cause. PPFD divide 650 by your area of coverate (technically dictated by height and beam angle, but tent walls help focus it.. figure DLI will be slightly lower than what is calculated but not by huge amounts)... if less than m^2 you have a higher ppfd than umol/s produced. PPFD is what you use when referencing DLI chart with hours per day of use. Above 40 is a grey area for atmospheric co2... properly boosted co2 shoudl allow upto 50-60 DLI. if you are at 600ppm and it's not allowing even 40DLI without issues, then that's more evidence the co2 isn't effective as-is.

It's like feeding from the bottom when drying out the top to get rid of gnats. They suggest to just do it with water. Not nutrients. Now. I'm not saying it wouldn't work. But, it'll have issues. And you'll have to end up feeding from the top to fix it. And keeping that material wet all the time. Would cause rot for sure. And, another reason, why would you won't to cause yourself the hassle. As I said. You'll have to feed the top, jst to get up fixing issues. Good growing. And through a fabric pot..hmmm.. it wouldn't surprise me. If some nutrients markers would be distributed. And, it would show up as overfeeding, manly yellowing on the outside of your leafs.

you can alwys remove things, but they dont always grow back later... as long as you consider that part, it's okay to do. i'd probably look for any overlapping leaves with condensation forming... this would be a problem area. Don't just remove one without looking at what it does... Say you have 2 choices of 2 overlapping leaves you deam too congested... which one gives light to an axillary growth or just more leaves? both are good but one is more beneficial. Also, don't create holes in canopy where lots of light just passes through without hitting any leaves... unles it will grow back quickly, it's going to negatively affect potential growth rate. high humidity trapped by leaves is a risk.. so airflow is important... leaves power growth, so sthey are important... both are important.. lol.. consider the whole picture when making decisions.

I would tend to agree with ya, just do what your doing for a couple days and see if they get worse it could be a minor magnesium deficiency and if so a bit of Calmag or Epson salt tsp per 3.6 L should bring it around..

If you're talking about the tips of the leaves being yellow, that's nute burn... and a very mild nute burn to boot... and nothing that calmag is going to do anything for... and nothing to worry about. The tacoing is different. Tacoing says your plant is too hot and is most likely caused by your lights being either too close or too intense... Raise your lights at least 3" or dim them somewhat... They should straighten out and be fine. If you're worried about the new growth being a lighter green than the old growth - don't. That's perfectly normal and a healthy sign. They will darken as they age. Good luck...

You answered it yourself basically my friend. I would keep the temp and rh in constant check above all and then just use a vpd calculator daily to see what you're hitting.