Buddha Purple Kush by Buddha Seeds

Hi. She hast to do a Lot. She IS growing but under ground. She IS building roots and IS establishing in the Pot. AS soon AS shes done,you will See more Progress above the soil

Please small clear cups over them. If you can buy a humidity dome to cover all, then great. If not buy cups. Make sure cups have small breather holes poked in them. This allows gas exchange and gives them fresh co2 to breathe while retaining humidity. Also mist the cups, mist the sides only. Not the top. If you mist the top, droplets could pool and drop on your seedling thus causing light magnification on the baby's leaves and hurting stunning or even killing it. Regarding the entire tent, you need a bigger humidifier, AC Infinity has 2 different ones the smaller one works for my 4x4 tent. Its also automatically controlled by the 69 controller. If Temps are correct then you don't need alot of exhaust right now, stop exhausting the tent and humidity will rise on its own. If Temps are to high then you need to exhaust, thus needing a bigger humidifier or a dome to cover all plants, or clear cups with holes for each individual plant. Please consider me as the answer so I have a chance to win grower of the month contest. Good luck!

it's the same for all stages and plant types with a few caveats for the more vulnerable seedling / clone you give enough water to saturate entire pot. a little runoff is fine. how often you add fertilizer depends on how often you want to fertilize. if soilless, should be 10% runoff and fertilize every single irrigation. wait for top layer to dry and repeat. (soil - 1" deep or so.. in coco coir, top lyaer starts to change color, can preempt that later on in bloom) don't try to pick a volume out.. that's hubris and or bad habit. this assumes the plant is appropriately sized for the pot. if a very small plant is in a large pot, it stays wet too long. you still want to make sure a column of water gets all the way down to the bottom of the pot, or you will be promoting superficial root growth and potentially creating ebb/flow zone of dried mierals which can lead to all sorts of nutrient or pH imbalances. a good wet-dry cycle promotes deeper/better roots. you can gas it in flower if you want, but develop those roots in vege. roots turn toward moisture. you want the bottom and central areas to remain moist the longest -- this doesn't happen if you sprits the top layer or try to choose some volume of water that is not actually sufficient to do it properly. you learn how much water you need relative to pot size in hindsight. you do not choose it. seedlings you might want to irrigate slightly sooner than a more mature plant -- just that first irrigation after sprouting. the risk of the taproot drying out outweighs other concerns those first 1-3 days above ground. clones you avoid any drying up top too, as that will potentially kill a clone. what constitutes the substrate and how much of it there is determines how much water you need to get the job done. if you wait until same level of dryness each time, it will require a similar volume of water each time. you learn that in hindsight. i'm not a fan of foliar sprays without a very specific reason. More often it just makes people feel like they are doing "something." if RH is good, you don't need to spritz seedlings. in an arid environment it might be good to spritz seedlings, but a humidity dome can save you the trouble. the tap root will provide plenty of moisture and if VPD is proper, it won't drink much anyway. should take several days even in a small seedling starter tray. Good vpd is what you want, but not long-standing water on leaves. Just inviting microbial growth, imo.

Consistent pH is recommended. I had a look at your diary and first thing i noticed is that your soil looks really wet. That's a no no, especially in their infancy. They only need a little water at first, and no nutrients for the first 2 weeks above ground. Planting a seedling in a large pot right off the bat is a really bad idea, and then soaking the entire body of soil, No! There is a reason people often start their seedlings in plastic party cups. It's a small space that doesn't need a lot of water and is more manageable for you, and the young tender seedling. Seedlings have no root mass. They have a tap root which is primarily used to anchor the plant in the soil. Then roots start to emerge from the tap root and will branch out. Until you have a established root zone, the water you dumped in is just gonna sit there and stifle your plants. They are gonna be water logged and have no ability to get oxygen to their roots. If "properly watering" is saturating your soil till there is runoff, for a plant that size, that's not proper watering, that's over watering. For example, i over watered a Oreoz seedling about a month ago. It got droopy, sad, stunted, started yellowing and developed necrotic spots. and that was in a 6" pot with 100ml of water. To dry out that soil, lower your humidity to like 30%. Raise the temps to 80 to 82F. This will cause the plant to transpire more rapidly. As well it will help to just dry out the soil through evaporation. Get some air moving around those plants as well. The wind will also help to dry out the top layer of soil. Remember, less is more.

The presence of green moss on the surface of your substrate is generally not dangerous for your plants, but it may indicate certain conditions in the environment. Moss tends to thrive in damp and shaded areas. Here are some steps you can consider: Adjust Watering: Moss tends to grow in consistently damp environments. Ensure that you are allowing the top layer of the substrate to dry out between waterings to discourage moss growth. Improve Air Circulation: Moss often thrives in areas with poor air circulation. Ensure that the growing environment has adequate ventilation. Increase Light Exposure: Moss prefers shaded areas. If possible, increase the amount of light reaching the substrate surface. This could involve adjusting the positioning of your grow lights. Physical Removal: You can manually remove the moss from the substrate surface. While this doesn't harm your plants, it's a cosmetic issue and indicates the need for adjustments. Top Dressing: Consider adding a thin layer of dry material (like perlite) on top of the substrate. This can help reduce excess moisture at the surface. It's important to note that moss itself is generally harmless to your plants. However, it may indicate conditions that could potentially be less than ideal for your plants. Happy growing🍀

I personally see overwater sign and mechanical damage, check under leaf, its bottom , not top part. All pest usually are there... Natural predators is best way. I personally stop using neem oil, ruined two harvests with aftertaste, so its a ban from me ;)))

I had this happen with my Jammy Dogers #2 Plant. It seemed like the leaves covered the nodes below thus making them stay small. I learned to time it and do LST at node 4 or 5. Tie it over to the side for 3 or 4 days. Each day adjusting it. Let the side branches grow up and meet the height of the top itself. Then untie it and the 5 or 6 top nodes will all grow and be TOPS. you will need to do LST throughput the grow. This doesn't necessarily mean tying it down, just pulling the side branches out to allow light in. I recommend tying it over slightly, then do leaf tucking. Take the big fan leaves blocking lower nodes and tuck them under the nodes below. It may be awkward and look weird, but those bottom nodes will get light and grow up. If you can't get a leaf to bend out of the way and it's just a TOTAL headache then remove it, but this is LAST resort. After all it takes leaves to grow the plants.. they are the engine that makes the plant run! Goodluck growmie 🙏

Hello my friend, you got a few deficiencies and the cause for them is a nutrient lockout. The reason for this nutrient lockout is a wrong pH or a wrong EC due waste nutrient salts builded up in your soil. You can solve both problems with a small flush. To do this flush you need to give the same amount of water as the pot volume. So if you got a 10 liter pot then you give 10 liters of water. This water should contain 50% from the amount of nutrients that you are giving. And the pH should be around 6.2 After the small flush you want to let it dry till the top inch of the soil is completely dry before watering again. After you have done this you can water and feed like you did before again. This time just make sure that you water till runoff and using the right pH to prevent future problems. Your plants are looking great and they will be okay my friend!

If it carries on only producing pistils like it is then you will need to flip to 12/12. I have had a few autos that threw out the odd pistil here and there but never really took off until I switched to 12/12. I have only had this happen twice