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HSC Hella Jelly

1
18
8
148
a year ago
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Indoor
Room Type
Topping
weeks 3, 9
ScrOG
weeks 7-9
Defoliation
weeks 7, 9
Soil
Grow medium
19 L
Pot Size
0
Germination
a year ago
3 seeds added to rodi water. Will put in plastic bag in damp paper towel for a day or so after 24 hours in the cup.
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Used method
Glass Of Water
Germination Method
1
Week 1. Vegetation
a year ago
7.62 cm
18 hrs
22 °C
6.5
No Smell
75 %
18 °C
1 L
45.72 cm
So I got lazy when I germinated the first batch of seeds. Since my first grow went so well, all in all, and the fact that it had been over four months since I had germinated any seeds I underwatered the first set of 3 seeds. Like REALLY underwatered ha. I was so afraid over overwatering that I ended up doing the complete opposite. Amazingly one of the seeds did survive somehow. I credit Humboldt Seed Co for that one surviving somehow. Maybe it’ll end up to be a special plant. Two of the seeds didn’t make it. Consider it a learning experience. After realizing the folly of my ways, I looked up a Build a Soil germination video on YouTube and brought the soil to field capacity and germinated another three seeds directly into the soil in the solo cups after soaking them for 24 hours. I chose three seeds because I wasn’t sure if the one seedling from the first batch would survive. As it turns out it heroically survived so looks like I’ll be growing 4 plants this run. 😎 Temps are really low in the tent because of my ambient temps and the fact that my lights are only at 30% when on. I ordered a heater that should arrive soon. I’d love to get those temps up to around 80. Humidity has been around 75%. Vpd is between .5 and .8 though so between that and me elevating the solo cups off the floor, all is well. I had some plastic baggies over the cups during germination and first few days of seedling stage. The ppfd was 200 but with the baggies over them (to retain humidity) I bet the ppfd was pretty low. Looks like they were starting to stretch so I took the baggies off and brought ppfd to 220 (according to Photone so +/-). Once they all get to true vegetative stage I’ll start feeding them a little itsy bit and also transfer to 5g fabric pots. After me giving the seeds wayyyyy too little water initially, things are looking to be off to a great start. The humidity is so high that the soil is remaining perfectly moist. As the plants roots continue to develop I’m sure their water demands will necessitate some watering soon. Currently though I’m just spraying the cotyledons and baby leaves with an atomizer of water.
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3
Week 3. Vegetation
a year ago
21.59 cm
18 hrs
27 °C
6.5
No Smell
3 PPM
75 %
21 °C
22 °C
19 °C
19 L
45.72 cm
Nutrients 7
calmag 1.95 mll
Grow Big - Fox Farm
Grow Big 1.3 mll
Big Bloom - Fox Farm
Big Bloom 3.91 mll
Hi all, week threeish here and you can see I have some issues with a few of my four plants. My last grow I used sohum living soil for my grow and that provided enough nutrients up throughout first few weeks of flower and then after that some deficiencies arose that I never really did catch up to. This grow I'm using fox farms happy frog soil in 5 gal fabric pots. Transferred from solo cups to 5 gal pots and added some Mykos to root system to assist the transfer. I've made a number of watering and nutrient mistakes up to this point. When the plants were younger I thought they were ready for feeding and I overfed them. They recovered from that but now I'm seeing what appears to me to be a classic symptom of calmag deficiency? I use RO/DI water because my TDS is close to 500 from the tap and there is also chloramine in our city water system. TDS now is 0-2 and my filter is supposed to remove almost all of the chloramine as well. I've been supplementing with a cal mag that I can't find on growdiaries which is odd to me. Could my calmag be bad? Either my calmag is bad, I'm not using enough of it or the problem is something other than a calmag deficiency. It's odd to me that 2 of the 4 plants don't show the same symptoms. Everything other than placement of the plants is the same. Same water/nutrients/tent settings. The calmag I use is General Organics CaMg+ (1-0-0). I've been giving them 1.5 teaspon per gallong which is right in between their light and heavy feeding suggestion. I guess I'll go up to 2 mg/gallon? I put down some foam on the ground in the tent because my floor is cold. Using an IR thermometer, floor is 66 degrees. With foam on top, the foam is 71 degrees now. I was worried the root system was too cold compared to the rest of the plant. I just did this change last night though so it's too early for me to notice if it's made any difference. I also have a small heater outside of the tent that points to the intake. Tent gets up to 81.7 or so during day. Too hot? If I remove the heater, it's around 74-75 in there when the lights were at 58%. Photone app says my light was around 400-450 ppfd. I just turned up the lights to 65% which put the ppfd up to 500 at it's strongest. This increase in light may allow me to ditch the heater for now. VPD so far the entire veg time was .7 albeit with higher temp/humidity. I'd really like to nip this issue in the bud and have healthier plants so any suggestions from any of you wise growers would be great. It just is confusing to me how two of them are healthy and 2 of them aren't with essentially the exact same paramaters?
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Used techniques
Topping
Technique
Grow Questions
MrLahey
MrLaheystarted grow question a year ago
Does this look like a calmag deficiency? Link to my journal entry for settings/water param/etc for these to see if you can spot the issue? growdiaries.com/diaries/187101-grow-journal-by-mrlahey. Using TDS 0-2 ppm ro/di water with calmag additive.
Solved
Leaves. Veins - yellow between
Leaves. Color - Mottling
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Sirdukevonwalter
Sirdukevonwalteranswered grow question a year ago
I'm new to grow dairies but 10 plus years ago when I transitioned to growing indoors, Happy Frog was a goto. With a base of ocean forest when going from 3 gallon to 5 or 7 gallon for the 1st 3 weeks of flower. Going from a Solo to a 5 gal is a huge jump. By going to a 5 gallon you've likley created a overwatering condition, meaning not enough oxygen at the roots when you feed or watered. This is most often the cause of weird deformed growth and you can have a new grower chasing all kinds of early stage deficiencies as well amdsome grow shops willing to sell you anything you think you need. Under development of roots and excess water is bad. Try to not chase the deficiencies. Try not to react by throwing nutes at it. Root cause at this stage is lack of oxygen at the roots. This can throw all kinds of deficiencies that only require you let that soil dry out between waterings. Completely. If you stay in the 5 gallon, expect a slow down or a complete stall in growth for weeks due to this. Likley weeks before the soil drys enough for roots to develop. Suggest you get a cheap moisture probe. Just for reference, not accuracy. So you aren't tempted to water too soon. Be patient, let the soil dry and the weed will correct itself in time if root rot doesn't set in. Or, If these were mine, I'd pull the the cup sized root ball out of the 5gal (save your soil) and put em into a 1 gal hard pot. Mix your happy frog with 20% perlite in advance before the transplant.. Trim all those huge hand sized leaves out. Definitely growing like a heavy indica. It'll grow leaves back fast in a smaller pot with more oxygen at the roots. Water the 1gal until run off and leave for 1 week or until feels really light, water one more time and transplant 3 gallon around 3 days or when feels a little dry/light to lift. Then water just the outside rim of the next pot up. If the stem of a fan leaf points up it has enough water. Even if the leaf itself drops. Dont stress how it looks today. Ive seen solid yellow clones grow pounds of healthy hard nugs after they were brought back to health. All this growth your looking at is going to be old and trimmed off by the time you get to flower anyways. The damaged leaves won't heal. Trim off the sick.. Watch the new growth. Make her healthy for flower. Don't bother reading the ppm of happy frog soil runoff. It'll be in the thousands when new. Its deceiving. Eventually the happy frog becomes imbalanced and required flush and a proper feeding schedule. If your using any calmag, use at 20% . In happy frog, once your plants are taking off, you need almost nothing added to your water for a week per gallon of soil. Except calmag at 20-50% as your soil gets used up and your plant gets bigger.
7
Week 7. Vegetation
a year ago
50.8 cm
18 hrs
26 °C
6.5
No Smell
400 PPM
60 %
21 °C
22 °C
19 °C
19 L
45.72 cm
Nutrients 8
calmag 1.3 mll
Grow Big - Fox Farm
Grow Big 1.3 mll
Big Bloom - Fox Farm
Big Bloom 2.6 mll
Decided I didn’t want to wait for the entire canopy to fill so I figured I’d do some lollipopping and one last vegetative feeding before flipping to flower in a few days after they have a couple days to stabilize after all the trimming I did today. In retrospect, looking at the before and after I may have gotten a little too heavy handed with the lollipopping and defoliation but you live and learn. The advice I got here like 3 weeks ago to back off the watering and let the soil dry out completely for like a week really helped the plant bounce back from the overwatering I was doing. Another lesson learned. Thanks again for all the experienced advice! The new growth leaves show none of the same issues the old ones were. I’m looking forward to flipping to flower and I love the fact that this is such a fast flowering strand!
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Used techniques
ScrOG
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
8
Week 8. Flowering
a year ago
66.04 cm
12 hrs
26 °C
6.4
Weak
700 PPM
60 %
21 °C
22 °C
19 °C
19 L
45.72 cm
Nutrients 8
calmag 1.3 mll
Grow Big - Fox Farm
Grow Big 1.3 mll
Big Bloom - Fox Farm
Big Bloom 2.6 mll
Flipped ‘em to flower about a week ago. So far to my untrained eyes they’re looking great. I’m watering ever three days and feeding once every other watering. Mixture of fox farms nutrients (disregard amounts in stats above) at like 25-40 percent of full strength. Ppm was 700 and ppfd is 700-800 according to Photone. Disregard the little fella in the solo cup. I never transplanted it and just kept it in there. Now I’m just keeping it as a bonus plant plus to learn leaf symptoms, etc. I’m really excited to guide these through the home stretch! They’re already way bigger than my last, and first, harvest.
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Used techniques
ScrOG
Technique
9
Week 9. Flowering
a year ago
91.44 cm
12 hrs
26 °C
6.5
Weak
700 PPM
60 %
21 °C
22 °C
19 °C
19 L
45.72 cm
Nutrients 7
calmag 1.3 mll
Grow Big - Fox Farm
Grow Big 1.3 mll
Big Bloom - Fox Farm
Big Bloom 2.6 mll
Deep into week two and things are looking great. A couple issues on leafs with back right plant but they're seemingly rather minor. A calmag issue perhaps but nothing major. The front plant is the strongest which makes sense because it was the one that was stunted the least during it's seedling stage. It was even praying the other day it was so happy, as you can see in the pic. I'm ecstatic with the canopy coverage, especially compared to my last harvest. Last harvest was 2.75 ounces. Comparing canopies, I'd say this one is on pace for at least double that. I'm also blown away with the stretch of these plants. I know that Hella Jelly has a fast flowering period averaging 45 days but holy cow have these plants stretched a ton already. They've more than doubled already. I can literally see an inch or more of growth per night when comparing pics I've taken on my cell phone. So far there is still just a strong vegetative smell but as the plant really starts to focus on bud development and less vegetative growth I'm sure the signature Hella Jelly smell will start to appear and I'll get to be seduced by sweet visions of growing buds. Aiming on giving the plants one more big defoliation in the next few days to increase lower canopy air flow and restore light to some tops that are now being blocked by fan leaves. Feeding plants FF nutrients above (disregard totals) and thinking I might back down on them just a smidge? The burnt leaf tips aren't bad though but I don't think I'd want them to get much worse?
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3 comments
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Used techniques
ScrOG
Technique
Topping
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
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