I'm gonna jump right in..π¨βπΎ
The high stress technique I have used a couple days ago called super cropping, I (tried more or less) to keep the canopy under control and more even. This also allow lower bud sites to rise to the top and slow down the 'stretching'.
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The trade in doing it at this stage, is that the plant is also focusing more on healing the stems instead of total focus on the buds. But I'm probably early enough in the flower stage they will make it up by having more strong stems in the end. That's because the points they are broken now are gonna heal back more strong.πͺπͺπͺ
I've added some nutrients to help them heal.
Aptus is working great with my organic soilπππ ππ¦
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As you maybe have seen I've added some extra lights. This are Mars Hydro's new Adlite's.
Here is some info about them in my own words.π¨βπΎ
-IR 15,
is a infrared light that is promoting extra photosynthesis.
Basically long wave length of lights that will penetrate leaves and hit the stems, so the idea is stems will be more strong and be able to carry bigger buds.
-UV 30,
is a ultraviolet light that will try to mimic the radiation that comes of the sun.
A little explanation about what this does to the plant in nature is that the plant will make it's own sunblock oil in the form of trichomes. So by adding this light the idea is that the plant is gonna work more to block this 'radiation'.
-Deep Red 30,
is like the title maybe already explained a red light booster.
In nature the spectrum of the sun changes with the season, so it's easy to explain the sun will get more intense and contains more red in the summer. The wavelength of red is also pretty long like the 'infrared' these will sometimes penetrate leaves and hit stems and lower buds.
The idea is more photosynthesis.
@Natrona, Could be natural like the colour difference or size/shape off the leaves. Or caused by germination damage when they try to break the shell. Mine had both this time.