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Tangie Auto (Buddha Seeds) — Box, Soil, LED

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2 months ago
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PB2000 (LM281B) LED/200W
Custom
PB2000 (LM281B) LED/200W
Custom
Mars Hydro 6in
Custom
Mars Hydro 6in
Custom
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 1-4, 4
FIMing
weeks 3
ScrOG
weeks 4, 4-9
Defoliation
weeks 6-9
Soil
Grow medium
Perlite
Grow medium
Vermiculite
Grow medium
Coco Coir
Grow medium
Mycorrhiza
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 8
Flowering
56
cm
inch
Height
20 hrs
Light Schedule
14+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
3+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
Lollipopping
Technique
Commented by
tangie tangie
3 months ago
Off to a good start this week! Trying to feel for how much light she can take without stressing. Day 50: The buds are starting to get sticky. The smell has intensified since last week. I'm continuing to remove yellowing leaves, or those that are not getting significant light exposure.
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Grow Questions
tangie
tangiestarted grow question 4 months ago
Any feedback and / or suggestions on improving my FIMing technique 🎋 are welcome! Beginning of week 3. For the next week (FIM recovery) should I keep adding Micro (2-0-0)? I’ve seen suggestions to ease off on Nitrogen for a week, but the bottles say always use all three parts
Solved
Techniques. FIMing
like
BerrySweetHigh
BerrySweetHighanswered grow question 4 months ago
Hello tang1e, The FIM looks great! No, don't change the amount of nutrients. Your plant is healthy so you are giving the right amount. The FIM does not change anything about the nutrients intake from your plant. Happy Growing Buddy! 💚
tangie
tangiestarted grow question 3 months ago
First grow. Looking at FIM results I'm super confused! It looks like if I had waited for the next segment to emerge and topped it (pics), I would get the same 4 branches (potential colas) AND 4 fan leaves which I have lost now due to FIM? Did FIM benefit here at all vs Topping?
Solved
Techniques. Topping
Techniques. FIMing
like
MalumProhibitum
MalumProhibitumanswered grow question 3 months ago
Excellent question! Short answer: Stoner science 😋 Long answer: You could just train the plant and expose the side branches to get same results + the extra leaves like you mentioned. The same goes for topping, where you can just train the plant, expose the side-suckers to the light (normally they get shaded by the main top, while forcing the top growth downwards. By limiting light exposure to the main top-growth and force it downwards you let more light hit the suckers, who will start growing and develop to 2x new tops, while the original top grows horisontally and develops 2 new suckers and the process goes on until you have enough colas and switch to 12/12 light. Example: growdiaries.com/diaries/191839-barney-039-s-farm-dos-si-dos-33-grow-journal-by-malumprohibitum/week/1105741 Hope it helps! 👍😉 --Good luck!
tangie
tangiestarted grow question 3 months ago
For a better yield, should I aggressively (but gently) bend main leading branches and tuck all shading fans to expose young 'undergrowth' branches (circled) and bud sites to light, or, inversely, untuck fans and straighten leading branches to give more light energy to them?
Solved
Techniques. LST
Techniques. ScrOG
like
001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 3 months ago
surface area is the key. if you make more holes in the canopy and more light passes through the plant without hitting a leaf, it is a net-negative. ATP, the primary product of photosynthesis, is highly mobile. Apical dominance dictates where it is used, and not dictated by where it was produced. It goes from the leaves into the phloem for use when not stored. where the light hits does not dictate where the sugars will be used. there's other reasons to try to reduced proportion of larf and this or that, but in the end it mainly just reduces yield, which is fine if you have no use for larf. I don't do extracts so i try to lolipop the trash at bottom. i try to have a good understanding of how deep my plants produce good buds and stick within that range. Sounds counter-intuitive but try to stick to 2.5-3 colas per sq ft. you'll minimize larf and get awesome light penetration too without any effort while still have a solid canopy with no gaps as it fills out. If you want less trash buds, that's the best way to go.
tangie
tangiestarted grow question 2 months ago
Auto, day 60. Best pics I can take until magnifier arrives (overexposed?) Aiming for cerebral fx, no couch lock (
Solved
Buds. Other
Other. Harvest - Drying
1 like
001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 2 months ago
Make suer to look at more than just the top colas. Ignore the trichomes on the leaves. I don't see much amber. Though i see a lot more 'plastic' than 'glass' (glassy being less ripe). I'd lean toward waiting longer but each to their own. 60d for an auto would be quite fast. Double check the lower bud sites.. if they aren't plump give it more time or consider cutting the tops off and letting the rest cook a bit longer.
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tangie
tangieweek 3
@modmyplants Thanks a lot for answering my question! I have uploaded another photo to week 3 which is much more true to the actual plant colour. Camera gets colours too wrong, but I didn't realise it was of importance for this question and didn't bother fixing it.
modmyplants
modmyplants
@tangie, yes the color looks better on the photo now. But still wouldnt cut out Nitrogen. Its quintessential for the growth. Color is always the first appearing indicator for certain things and good to know about, since then you wont have any damage and can react in time.
Hawk2
Hawk2week 9
Beautiful grow - Keep it up buddy 🌱🍀🥦💚
tangie
tangie
@Hawk2, Thank you mate!
KushParty
KushPartyweek 6
Looks awesome 💣 💣 💣
tangie
tangie
@@KushParty, Thank you!
IstrGrow
IstrGrowweek 1
Happy growing! Look's great! Good luck 😺😺
tangie
tangie
@IstrGrow, Thank you brother! Spontaneously started my first proper sensor-controlled box grow (was planning to plant outdoors originally) under relentless guidance of ChatGPT 4 😁 Catching up on literature and best practices as I go along.
OppaGanjaStyle
OppaGanjaStyleweek 1
Happy growing! Enjoy it! 👽😮‍💨
tangie
tangie
@OppaGanjaStyle, 🙏 I am enjoying it now, in the only moment that really exists :) Such a healing experience of re-connection with nature!
tangie
tangieweek 12
What the fuck, 267g (9.42oz) of 60% RH dried trimmed bud 😅 😎 🙏
tangie
tangieweek 5
@001100010010011110 Thank you for your in-depth and technical answer to my ScrOG tucking question! It all makes sense now. I didn't know that ATP was that mobile. I learn as I go :D It would be great if you could review my other unanswered question on FIMing vs Topping, if you're experienced with those techniques. I have not yet found any credible, factual evidence that FIMing can lead to more branches/colas being produced vs Topping. People talk about FIM producing "3, 4 or even up to 7" leading colas instead of the original one, but I see no pictures or data to support that. Where do those extra branches grow out from? And this actually links well to your previous answer, because in FIMing you lose two fans. If you top and keep the fans, they will provide your plant with more ATP, which, I assume, would lead to faster and easier recovery and higher net leaf surface area of the plant at any later point in time, if (hypothetically) compared to exactly the same plant, growing in exactly same conditions, but FIMed above (at) the same node. Is this ("FIMing can produce more colas than Topping") just a completely fabricated self-perpetuating urban legend, or what? Thanks! Edit: By "unanswered" I meant to say that I have received very valuable advice, and I appreciate that a lot, but I have not received a direct answer to my very specific question :)
001100010010011110
001100010010011110
@tangie, i don't give a shit if you select an answer, lol - the least important thing is that contest. and, you'll find a lot of people don't beleive what i said, but is in fact true. fimming is topping. topping is mutilating a portion of the plant to cause auxin to distribute more widely, causing more widely distributed growth. All that happens with a "FIM is that you don't quite cut off the growth tip and what remains can recover and form new axillary branches. You don't need to cut the fan leaves, like you said, so avoid it - just a portion of the growth tip is necessary. It's unpredictable and tough to plan around, so not something i've tried more than a few times for shits and grins. I'm sure if you do it enuogh you can find the point at which you get nearly guaranteed results but wether its 2+1 or 2+2 or 2+3 is maybe less certain (2 axilllary buds that exist plus what comes out of the mutilated growth tip). training will always be more efficient as far as saving vege time vs pruning growth off. There's no circumventing rate of growth that results from your environemnt. We can spread it out, but we can't change the overall rate too much. is it more efficient growth if spread out? maybe? but i wouldn't assume that. cutting off growth always is wasted resources/time. not saying it isn't useful or good to do, but that is what needs to be balanced when choosing to do so. With that sad i do both. i probably cost myself a 1-3 days of extra vege but it's a better distributed canopy - foundation of canopy anyway. As far as canopy management, i'd strongly recommend having an end goal/target and working backward from that to compose a strategy to get there. 2.5-3 colas per sq ft will ensure max yield and excellent light penetration while also fully covering the area. FIM'ing is 'neat' to showcase, but not something you can plan around consistently. it takes a little faith because even the first week of flower it's not fully filled in, but it'll get there. I'm sure i said it already -- cocoforcannabis.com has the best information with the least bro-science corruption. the guides and the dr photon's corner articles are all good. bruce bugbee is also another excellent no-frills source. IF it sounds like and advertisment with lots of bold promises, it's probably bogus information. "25% greater yield!" bullshit, lol.. unless it's supplementing co2, and even that isn't cost-effective.
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tangie
tangieweek 9
This is quite a spontaneous grow, and I have been building the grow space and purchasing necessary equipment on the go. It took a while before came about purchasing a reliable pH meter, and I didn't pay much attention to nutrient buildup and runoff pH. Didn't pH-condition the substrate before planting either. Previously I was going purely by plant health and recommended nutrient dosages. With leaf tips and ridges continuing to yellow, I suspected that there can be nutrient build-up in the substrate. Short internodes on a heavily sativa-dominant plant also hinted at N excess. Although it could just be Ruderalis genetics, we'll never know now. I finally got to checking the runoff pH and it was down to 4.3. Completely flushed the medium with pH-upped water to bring pH to 6.1. Took long enough that I didn't have time to push it all the way up to 6.5. With the last flush I also added CalMag just in case. As a bonus, I do now have ~15l of concentrated nutrient solution 😁 Lesson learned.
tangie
tangieweek 6
Did not adjust to the plant's growing water consumption and she was left in drying soil overnight a couple of days ago (it was still slightly moist in the evening). By the morning her leaf tips were dry and yellow. I think perlite makes it more difficult to judge remaining moisture contents because of its water buffering effect. You never know exactly how much moisture it still holds. I guess it comes with experience (or pot scales).
tangie
tangieweek 5
🌞🌞🌞 Added 4 x 7W strips with blue and red LEDs, at 28W total. Purpose: transmit light energy to "undergrowth" and lower-level fans. Will see if she responds well.
tangie
tangieweek 4
Experimenting with CO2 tabs. Put one in a soda can filled with water and placed the can inside the tent at the beginning of the "day". The room was semi-sealed also.
tangie
tangieweek 2
She's responding to increased LED power and 1/2 nutrient solution very well. 🌞🌞🌞 The lamp is currently at PPFD 850 umol/m2/s
tangie
tangieweek 1
💦💦💦 Tap water pH came back at 8.0, Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect 3-part 1/2 solution (Micro + Grow + Bloom) based on the same water came back at 6.5, fully justifying the name of the product! Tested with HMD PH-80.