Sensi #741 by TOTEM

@BlackOpsGrow, 11 weeks is not really that long. If you are doing a perpetual grow ( and have the room) you can veg for the same length of time as flower in another area. When the flower room opens up, move them to the room and then start more. It's definitely a process. The nice part is you always have plants in flower. Double the fun.

@BlackOpsGrow, I was thinking the same thing

@GrowFanatic, not really, but I can send you the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07CNT7CWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mx3eDb85M9FAH

@TOTEM, do they have a certain name?

@GrowFanatic, Amazon! Look for metallic colored ones.

@TOTEM, Sorry if I add that it's written on the bags to do so!!!! XD A part from jokes, you're right, the fungi need to "attach" to the roots the sooner the better, no need to spread 'em at the bottom of the pot. While growing and colonizing the mychorizzae will explore the whole pot looking for food anyway, and they protect themselves better from bad fungi/nematodes too when they're in greater number per cm2. I end up here, I sound too wiki! :D

@TOTEM, thanks for the reply, keep on with your great garden :)

Hey @HighestGrade! Well, I think it's more important to create as much contact as possible between roots and mycorrhizae, and that's why I create a layer of them just under the transplanted plant, instead of mixing it with the soil. Doing like this, mycorrhizae should allow roots to create a better "base" to start their stretch from. After 20 days, no, the airpot was not completely filled, but since her final pot will be the 9L ones, and I'll not keep her in veg forever, I needed to follow a transplant schedule that allowed her to live for some weeks in the 3L pot too. Just a matter of simplicity, and not optimization for sure! Stay safe =)

@TOTEM, yes as soon as this run is finished i‘ll switch to the 6l ! Maybe i‘ll put just one in a 12l AirPot and see what happens in a scrog still not sure about that 😅

@@Resin_Randy, I would say A LOT bigger! Why don’t you try with the 6L upgrade?

@SensiSeeds, That is a tidy looking canopy for sure

@Budofpray, Thanks so much buddy!!!!!!!!! 🤪💪🏼🙏🏼👊🏼

Hey @TheCode, thanks for the compliment! Yeah, mainlining surely gives you better yields: you get 8-16-32 colas of the same size, where every one is being hit by light the same way of others’. Tap water for mycorrhizae is perfectly fine, but you MUST make chlorine evaporate before giving that to your plants. In practice, fill up a container with tap water and wait about 24-48h before using it. I’m about to flower this plant in about a week, so let’s say she will take between 8 and 11 weeks to end. In reality I don’t know because they’re experimental strains with not 100% defined flowering times. If you wanna follow the grow, just press the big green Follow button at the top of the page! Yo!!!!

@GreenHouseLab, YES! It really helped so much!! Thank you mate! 🙌

@MaryJaneUSA, Thank you very much bro! 🙏

@DaGroa, Haha, loved this comment! Well, I think we all should work to optimize the spaces we have. Letting them grow naturally with one big cola in the middle, and many smaller (4-5 times less) colas around will yield LESS than enlarging them as much as we can in order to create an even flat canopy. This is the biggest difference I noticed between pruning and not pruning. Sometimes it happens that after some hard stress like mainlining some nodes start growing not symmetric anymore (one branch grows 1 cm before the corresponding one on the other side), but that's not so bad in the end. So... I think training your plants will always yield more! I always suggest you to understand the basics of lollipopping, which means removing any lower branch which is not reached by light. I think you can find many informations on growweedeasy.com, especially in the tutorial section!