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White Widow Auto - First Real Grow

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1984
5 years ago
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6
Grow Conditions
Week 10
Flowering
60.96
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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Sublime374 Sublime374
5 years ago
Day 64 - I've started the flush on plant 1. The trichs aren't turning amber yet but the bud structure alone tells me it's time to start flushing. I'm assuming plant 1 will be ready for the chop on day 73, but I'll let the trichomes dictate what happens. Plant 2 is really fattening up and showing a lot of frost. Plant 3 is showing some amber trichomes but I think they're just in areas where I've grabbed the leaf for a test smell. Next time plant 3 gets watered I'll start the flush on her too. Plant 4 is just kind of hanging in there. I've probably taken off half of her leaves by now, but there's a few trichomes popping out here and there. If nothing else I'll make some air freshener or something out of it 😝. --- Day 66 - I just had to note that I chopped down plant 4 this morning. The little bit of green growth in her bottom leaves basically turned completely yellow overnight and I took it as a sign that it was time. I'll dry her out and see if there's anything worth saving. I'll be watering tonight and I'm going to start flushing both 2 and 3. Everything looks like it's within two weeks of being done to me so it's flush time. --- Day 68 - I continued to flush plant 1 and started flushing 2 and 3. I read that some people need to put 15 gallons of water through a 5-gallon pot to get the PPM coming out down to what it is going in, so I started measuring the PPM after every gallon of water that went through plant 1. After 8 gallons of 150 PPM tap water it was still coming out at 1200-1500 PPM. The first time I ever measured the run off of plant 1 (about two weeks ago) it was over 3200. After 10 gallons it was showing ~500ppm so I decided to quit there. I put 3 gallons of water through 2 and 3 and their PPMs were at about 700-800 PPM. I'm still learning about flushing so I'm just doing it a little differently with each plant. I use a vaporizer 99.99% of the time and I've read that an improper flush is a lot worse for vaporizer users, so I want to figure out how to do it properly. I'm so perplexed by the amount of salt in the run off because I thought I was going really easy on the nutes. I don't think I was physically watering properly. I was afraid the water would run out of the sides of the fabric pot so I went very very slowly until it got to the point that it was just taking too long and I decided to try to use a regular old watering can. When I did that I saw that the water pools up and only a few drops will run out of the side of the pots. I'm guessing that things were building up until I started using a watering can, but I'll find out with my next grow I guess. I also decided to take apart the root ball of plant 4 and just see how bad the root rot was. Well, there wasn't any. The roots were all white and healthy and the entire 5-gallon pot was one giant root ball. There was absolutely no smell or anything that would indicate that the roots were in any way unhealthy. I'm just going to chalk it up to a genetic defect. Plant 4's leaves were soft like velvet before they ever yellowed which meant to me it wasn't absorbing or processing something important. Things are getting close and it's getting harder than ever to be patient.
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Grow Questions
Sublime374
Sublime374started grow question 5 years ago
Is the white stuff in the pictures mildew? If it is, what should I do to sanitize my tent?
Solved
Techniques. ScrOG
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Wicked_Stix
Wicked_Stixanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hard to see from the picture but if your fliter was there then it is probably dust. It is always a good idea to keep your tent disinfected anyway though. You can wipe everything down with clorox wipes to disinfect it.
Sublime374
Sublime374started grow question 5 years ago
Does the issue on the leaves look like a magnesium deficiency, or something else? On plant 1, the worst looking leaves are crispy and seem thicker than other leaves, but the set of leaves below that one is still green and soft, and in shade.
Solved
Leaves. Veins - yellow between
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Philindicus
Philindicusanswered grow question 5 years ago
Looks like the beginning of a magnesium deficiency. With my autos I usually start giving cal/mag week 4 at 0.5 ml per liter. It usually works out fine. Your lights are very strong so adding in the cal/mag helps them deal with light stress better . Hard to tell in your photos but your pots look pretty dry make sure you are giving them enough water and nutrients. They are large enough to give them a good watering but don't soak the whole pot. Start a nice wet dry watering cycle on her letting her dry out a bit between waterings. It will force the roots to grow deeper in the pot looking for moisture. Also if possible try to lower you ph to 5.8 to 6.2 which would be ideal for the best nutrient absorption. Up to 6.5 ph is acceptable for soil. If the magnesium issue starts to present itself on new leaves You can use 1/4 teaspoon of Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulfate) in 1 quart of water and use it as a fine spray solution once a week. Be sure to get under the leaves. Also try to spray at lights out to avoid burn spots on your leaves or early morning before the lights come on then leave a fan blowing on the plant until it drys then it can handle the light. The existing deficiency on the leaf may not improve or change go by the newer leaf growth. Good luck👌
Sublime374
Sublime374started grow question 5 years ago
Can I salvage any of the buds from a plant with bud rot? I'm not seeing any actual fuzz anywhere on the plant besides where I took that picture, could I throw out that bud and keep the rest? Should I take everything from that plant out of the dry tent so it doesn't spread?
Solved
Techniques. ScrOG
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MarcXL
MarcXLanswered grow question 5 years ago
You should definitely put that bud and the buds next to it out of the tent but be careful not to shake that bud to prevent massive spore release. Take some time and carefully watch all the other buds for signs of mould and do this daily. I would advise to dismantle the bigger buds to prevent more mould and dry them on a rack. Thats one of the options you have to make sure enough air can flow around those big dense buds. Better dismantle before risking more mould and a bigger loss.
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Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 12
Just cut the bud with the rot generously, and check the other plants often, b4cause this Girls grow very dense and its hard to discover rot... if you see wilting sugarleaves is a sign for something going on
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimar
@@Sublime374,well done.... hope its only the one part that you throw away
Sublime374
Sublime374
@Mrs_Larimar, Thanks. I kind of opened up every part of the bud with mold and deep inside it was getting fuzzy all over so I threw out the entire bud. I washed my hands in between touching buds I thought might have mold and anything else. The weird thing is with the white areas on the buds is that I'm pretty sure it's just "albino" plant material that never got any light because it's not fuzzy with anything but trichomes as far as I can tell. I'm going to let the buds with the white areas just dry in their own corner of the house and see if those areas turn into mold.
Philindicus
Philindicusweek 4
Hope my answer to your grow question helped you out. Feel free to message me anytime. Look forward to following your grow.👍
Philindicus
Philindicus
@@Sublime374, I've seen a lot of great grows using the GH Flora line up. With the LED if your going to to do a lot of growing you may want to think about getting a good PPF/PAR meter to measure the intensity of your lights at different distances. Their not cheap but they take away the guess work.
Sublime374
Sublime374
@Philindicus, Thanks, I appreciate it. I looked around at some other reviews of the light I'm using and some seasoned growers have suggested increasing cal/mag when using it. I had an overwatering problem in the beginning and now I'm watering about every four days but I've got a fan blowing on the pots so the top dries out quickly because I've had some fungus gnats. Next time I water I'll just do 2ml of cal/mag in a gallon of 6.2 water. New growth looks healthy and happy but I want to keep it that way.
Philindicus
Philindicusweek 9
I would try to treat each plant indiviually. They may have different feeding and watering schedules. Personally on my current grow I went from growing 4 plants to 7 plants and lost track of who got what. They were all drinking at different rates. I discovered I forgot to feed one plant. Which caused an issue.Now I write everything down. For some reason in my mind I expected to water and feed them all at once. Not the case.
Sublime374
Sublime374
@Philindicus, Thanks. I've got a whiteboard in the grow room that helps me keep track of watering and feeding. Each plant is getting slightly different nutes at this point and I water them when they start to look thirsty. I watch the big fan leaves to know if they're thirsty. Last time I watered they all just happened to get thirsty on the same day, except 4. I'll give plant 4 about a liter of water when I do water it. It's yellowing so fast I'm really giving up on it, but that's ok, because I'm starting my next seeds in about a week and I'll need the space.
MaxwellSH
MaxwellSHweek 12
Awesome buds Mate👍
ElChicoDelaWeed
ElChicoDelaWeedweek 10
big :)
Inquisitor
Inquisitorweek 11
Holy Crap Dude!!! Looking good haha. They look like they are going to be very nice when they are done... consider me sub'd with a chair and popcorn. 👌
Sublime374
Sublime374week 1
Thanks GreenMachine, I posted a clearer picture. I'll give it a wipe down tomorrow with some clorox just to be safe.
Lancemosh
Lancemosh
@@Sublime374,I cannot rubbing and they’re very green they look very healthy but growing very slow there in a 5 gallon in a 3 gallon pots how do you send a picture on there so you can see the plants can you do that
Sublime374
Sublime374
@Lancemosh, A lot of times slow growth is caused by over watering. Check out this website and see if it helps: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/overwatering The other thing that can stunt a plant's growth is if the container it's in is too small. Plants that are older than 3 weeks should be in at least a 3-gallon pot.
Lancemosh
Lancemosh
My White widowauto flower plant is week four from seedAnd it’s very small can you tell me why
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Sublime374
Sublime374week 12
Just another update. I looked closely at some pictures and the mold was on plant 1 before it went into the harvest tent, which means the grow tent was exposed to mold. So I wiped every square inch of the grow tent with bleach wipes, let it air out for a couple hours, moved plants 2 and 3 to the main tent so that I could wipe down the harvest tent the same way. Now I've got the harvest tent with a floor fan blowing into it to make sure it's totally aired out because I don't want that smell getting in the bud. When that's aired out I'll move plants 2 and 3 back to the harvest tent so that tomorrow I can get started in the main tent with the seeds that I popped. Oh yeah, counting is hard, I actually have 9 seeds. I completely took apart every cola on plant 1. Every bud has been pulled apart and while there isn't any mold visible, there's lots of the "albino" plant material in areas that never got any light. It looks like after that white material gets exposed to air for a while it to turns a dark reddish brown, like bud rot. I'm assuming it's bud rot waiting to happen but I'll just have to keep an eye on it and see. All of plant 1 is far away from the harvest area. All of the materials used when trimming and harvesting have been cleaned or thrown out. I went in and cut one of the "twin buds" off of plant 2 because that's the kind of area that has all of the albino growth on plant 1. The part of that bud that was growing into its "twin" has some of that same albino growth. If it is bud rot, I'm hoping that's the only part on plant 2 with it. The area where plant 1 got moldy is kind of a dead zone for air flow so I'm trying to stay optimistic that it's going to be contained to that one bit of bud, but that albino growth is telling me something isn't right. I'll update when there's more to update.
Sublime374
Sublime374week 1
@Majormolasses Right now I've got the light (HLG 550 v2) turned all the way down and daytime temps are around 75 with it falling as low as 66 at night. With the new humidifier I put in the tent, the humidity is remaining much more stable, around 50-60% at all times. I keep a tower fan running 24/7 in addition to the exhaust fan that's pulling about 250 CFM. I had a filter over my intake vent but I noticed the walls of the tent were getting sucked in so I just have what's basically a hair net over the intake to catch any dust bunnies or anything like that, so fresh air should always be flowing in without a problem. There was one time when I forgot to turn the tower fan back on (I turn it off to spray water on the soil) and the humidity got up to about 80% for a couple of hours, but I don't know if the air up higher was actually that wet. It was right after I got done spraying water and the thermometer/hydrometer was directly on the pot I watered. I also have two clip-on fans above my light to push hot air towards the exhaust fan, but it really doesn't produce much heat so I've been using them to push hot air down to the plants. My tent is in my basement, but it's not a true basement. The side of the basement my tent is on isn't below ground. The basement is usually 5 or 6 degrees colder than the rest of the house but the humidity is the same throughout. Keeping my temp high enough is the biggest challenge I've had so far which is why I use the clip-on fans to push the hot air down. So yeah, there's lots of air flow in the tent. All of that air flow is why I'm more and more confident it was just mineral dust from running the old humidifier. Also, after removing that humidifier there's no longer any kind of smell that resembles mildew. Thanks for the advice :)