Blueberry Obama and Mandarin Sunset Noob

Hard to say about that wattage. I have used a 180W at about 30" with good results. So your dimming capability might bring it down to that intensity. Otherwise, I am using 30 watts of led bar lights at 18".

Dry off the leaves if anythign drips on them... doin't foliar spray, just in case that's the source. It could be caused by more than one thing. If they are well-hydrated, not overfed, underfed, i'd raise the light an inch or two and see what happens. That doesn't look neccessary though. At the age of those plants, i'd most liekly ignore it than try to do anythign about it. when leaves contort, it can be due to heat, light or lack of moisture etc.. could be pH or even some nutrient-related issues. When they are young, this sort of stuff happens on a whim and most often grows out of it quickly. If you choose to be proactive, try the less obtrussive options first before adding anythign you can't take out.

Really looks like a case of overwatering. Just let it dry out and you should be fine. Check out my first grow for tips tricks and to learn what not to do. Cheers and happy growing!

Honestly to me they look great. They are bushy, green, and solid in stature. It looks to me like you have some healthy seedlings. All my grows are all around the same humidity as yours with no ill effects. I personally think your leaf droop is good, it looks like the leaves are growing a bit faster than the leaf petioles are able to support. Your ladies have plenty of light, as soon as they develop a bit more root structure that should disappear. As the previous answer said, after a good water pick up the pot and remember how heavy it is, and do not water until it feels very light, or has a slight weight to it. Happy growing and good luck! Cheers.

Looks like a nutrient lockout . And watering to often. No oxygen to the roots will cause them to wilt like that . You should check your EC and PPM to make sure your in range . You should be around 250-400 PPM for a plant that size . Hope that helps

One looks like a iron deficiency well the other looks like a magnesium deficiency. I'd definitely think about transplanting them into a larger pot. Give them a well rounded feed and they should bounce back quickly. Remember to use micro and cal/mag

Every light is a bit different. If you have an expensive PAR/ppfd meter, you can start at generally accepted safe levels relative to maturity and trial and error from there. with a cheap lux meter, you can guage intensity.. if X lux is too much for a seedling, you know to test lower than X lux in future. This will remain useful information as long as you use that meter under the same light -- or, the same exact light model. i.e. same spectrum, same diodes, etc etc.. $150 vs. $10. Your plants are probably ready for ~full intensity at this point or near that point. Start at 18-24".. let the plants grow into light a bit and look for adverse impacts. if it stops growing vertically or if the top buds flop over, you know it's too much light. If you see the leaves drooping for long periods of time during day, that's another minor sign -- they should rise and fall a bit, though. If i see my plants droopy for hours at a time near end of day i reduce intensity or raise lights a bit. how long you run your lights will matter too. check out a DLI chart. It'll help you determine if you are giving too much light based on specs and how long to run you rlights- - may be able to save some money at 16-18hrs instead of 24hours that some run them. https://www.ledtonic.com/blogs/guides/dli-daily-light-integral-chart-understand-your-plants-ppfd-photoperiod-requirements Use the chart, but don't follow suggestions for different plants.. mary jane can go upto 65DLI with ~1300ppm CO2 or so. Better to stick to 30-40 sans additional CO2. With that info you can look up the PAR/ppfd you provide at the hours you run the light and determine what your DLI provided is. So, it's going to take trial and error. You don't need a meter of any type, but it would help speed the process up. Waiting for 6+ nodes is safer. you can probably get away with it earlier, but i think you get less impact doing so. If the axilliary growth is starting to grow out just a bit, i think topping causes more "bush-effect" than if they are tiny little nubs in the nook of a node. you got the right idea... test somethign out... see how it goes.. adjust... take soem notes for future reference until it's second nature.