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Yellow leaf tips on healthy plant in dwc week 8 from seed vegging

Slurpy_Terpy
Slurpy_Terpystarted grow question 4 years ago
Why are the tips of the leaves yellow on the highest growth points of the Brain Cake? - light burn? Since a few days the light is at 80% (mars sp3000 300w full spectrum led in a 60*120cm at 80cm above the top of the plants) - nutrient burn/shortage? Res changed a few days ago
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Week 8
Leaves. Color - Yellow
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 4 years ago
@gmslave i think you got the N backward. it's more available at higher pH. that's one of the main reasons the recommended pH for soil is higher, because it's tougher to get N out of soil - whether due to microbes involved, physical obstacles, whatever.. i don't know the nitty-gritty details of causality, unfortunately. extra tidbit for answers. i wouldn't trust those 'growweedeasy' ph charts.. i think they are a bit suspsect on the information they provide, but .. oh well. i wouldn't trust it without verifying what it says through actual research conducted on this stuff... Most plants researched prefer the same narrow range of concentrations and ratios of nutes. marijuana is not different from this very common grouping of plants. So, most research will apply well in this regard to other species. in this particular case, it kinda shows what i'm talking about that so-called pH chart. N is a solid bar across whole spectrum of "hydro" chart, and you can see the lower end on the "soil" chart. in this case, they got it right. More likely made by people that took a high school chem class and didn't do well. but, if you study that chart... at <6 you will inevitably have deficiencies and problems... if that's true why do people recommend 5.5-5.8? Why aren't those people constantly having Mg, Ca, Mn defieciencies? That chart is trash, that's why, lol. generalizations only... if its range is 'higher' figure a higher pH could help. beyond that don't use it in a specific, precise, black-and-white way. those charts are not accurate in ways that can worsen problems. right now, most science is butchered by this industry for money.
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Slurpy_Terpy
Slurpy_Terpyanswered grow question 4 years ago
The Ph fluctuates between 5.5 and 7 though, usually I let it go past 6.3 before adjusting, I guess most of the time its around 6-6.5. Since I have been feeding at the same EC for 2 weeks now and the Ec seems to have lowered (and they drank 1/3 of the water) I think it may be a lack of nutrients so I added a bit more of the base nutrients. Hopefully in a few days she will recover.
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 4 years ago
Think i see 2 problems concurrently? without knowing what you put in -- PPMs -- it makes it more difficult to guesstimate what is wrong. i'd lean lockout, but knowing you rmixes PPM will go a long way. I lean this way becaue most people overfeed. The motivation is to push that edge. Often there is plenty of Ca or Mg and it's just being locked out. Then people add cal-mag and wonder why things got worse. So, it'll be wise to eliminate possibilities before taking my suggestion or anyone else's suggestion. I highly doubt any respectable blend of nutrients is lacking these 2 elements... if it is... choose another brand, LOL.. i didn't look at brand, not shitting on anyone's product.. simple generalization -- If a nutrient system, any, is lacking part of a balanced feed, it is trash.
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GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 4 years ago
In veg you should be running your ph at 5.8 and your ec should be 1.4 700 ppm for this stage of growth. 6 ph to 6.5 is for flower time. Your nitrogen will be more available at 5.8 and that should fix up any new growth. Cheers ps. When you have reached your limit on veg nutes, do not start your flower nutes at the max veg nutes. Start low around 1.2 ec for flower. Mid flower increase to around 1.6 to 1.8 ec and late flower back to 1.2
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