before first grow

grow time plus 2 weeks of drying/curing .. really want longer with some. with a highly efficient light, you don't need more than 22 - 23 watts per square foot. Might need 25 or 26 with midrange stuff, so it won't make a huge difference. Might get an extra year or 2 out of the more efficient lights. Efficacy is key here. 2,8 umol/J and above would be high efficacy lights. Midrange stuff will be in vicinity of 2,5 umol/J -- this directly relates to electricity per photon spent and longevity of the light relative to any 1 diode model. if samsung lm301 base light, make sure watts / number of diodes is less than 0.50watts per diode... even that is a bit too hot (less longevity, more electricity per photon). for reference a high efficacy light should be at least 90% of original intensity 7+ years out with constant use. they all slowly dim, though. a 3x3 is probably enough for you. 200 to 240w light of some sort. "225" would be best fit, but you get what is available and 240 is a common wattage. Dimming the light slightly will improve longevity of the light, so there's a bonus for going a little over. I'd go with something with strips/bars type frame vs a quantum board, but if the price is right, a QB is perfectly fine too. Need less distance with bars due to better distribution of light. If you intend to grow photoperiods, i'd go with a beefier light in a 3x3 with a dimmer option on it. You'll need closer to 270w in a 3x3 for photoperiods. (not "need" but to be fully taking advantage of atmospheric co2). Spend a few more dollars day one on a FC 3000 and it's longevity will make up for the initial cost - along with some minor electricity savings along the way too. 300w with a dimmer. run at 90% at 18" on a 12/12 cycle and it'll power photoperiods through flower well in a 3x3.