Ppm schedule for high dli no co2 added

It is impossible to get a accurate schedule. It will solely be based on plant size. Plus each strain is a little different plus nutrition. A schedule or chart is mearly a rough blueprint. I start at .6 to .7 ec for seedling. By 5th week I am running a 1.6 ec roughly, plants are growing really good. It's hard to get nute burn in Hydro with it always being wet. Ph holds day to day, they are drinking solution. So I go with it, as a personal example I am dealing with now. As you learn the nutrition and what the plants want, and when. Your results will get better, and better.

Do start with a simple schedule off of General Hydroponics website for recommended ppm. Any supplement I’d do a research dive before you buy, know what it is, what it does. Tweak with each grow until you think you get it right. ✌️

35-40 DLI is about as high as you can go with ambient co2. co2 can vary in concentration. whether you can measure it or not won't make a huge difference in the trial and error process of adjusting a light. you feed roughly the same ratio no matter what. what changes is the concentration, if it is well-balanced already. 1.3-1.5EC then observe and adjust to what results from your unique environment. some need more, some need less... genetics are also a factor that can cause deviation from one plant to another in this regard. law of conservation of mass... if you have the ratio worked out well, then scaling up to meet higher rate of growth is just a matter of concentration. the plant is still made of roughly the same ratio of building blocks (nutes we give + carbon from atmosphere). Whether adding 3 new leaves at once or 1 at a slower pace, the building blocks required will be very similar. try to push boundaries of light, back off when you cause some symptoms. make sure nothing else occurs over next few weeks because being "close" just means any potential problem takes longer to show itself. notes help. back off slightly if you have some lingering issues 2-3 weeks after last adjustment. light should be good at this distance, power and hours of operation in future, give or take small amount depending on changes to environmental factors and genetics of moment. Once you have that 35-40 DLI blanket over canopy worked out, can start doing same trial and error with feeding. push boundaries, notice problems, and dial back. keep notes. it'll be a multi-grow and shortest learning curve if you attack it systematically. may need small adjustments for various life stages, but not as much as most suggest. the plant needs plenty of N in bloom too. to say otherwise is to deny reality of the chemistry and what constitutes each cell of growth. law of conservation of mass.. can't manifest N from nothing to use as a necessary building block for numerous organelles, dna, et al in each cell. brand means nothing. the ingredients of fertilizers are ubiquitous commodities. they are the same in each bag. some ingredients vary and that can make a small difference. if it works well and you can work out a formula that works consistently with 90-95% of plants, then you've got something good going. anything short of that bar is giving up.

Depends on a bunch of different factors. DWC is my fav method. But i would say to just grab a feed chart off the GH website and follow that.