Question about ADV Nutrients

i lose track of their 10,000 bottles of nutrients for sale. fertilization isn't about broad labels and broad ideas of people that never verified or tested anything. It's a low-resolution understanding of things and conducive to efficiently separating you from your money and not much else. If done properly, it's very easy to make a stable fertilizer. Whether i use 7.0 pH tap water or 8.4 pH tap water, i get roughly 6.0 pH from my nutes without any effort from me. Some brands are more competent than others. So it is possible. I don't use that product so i don't know if they did a good job with that in the formulation of their products or not. If the ratios drastically change from vege to flower, they are not following modern knowledge and understanding of properly feeding a plant. they've gone off on their own ittle esoteric adventure without every employing the scientific method. Denying this is like the farmers of the midwest not listneing to modern knowledge and exacerbating and/or beign the primary cause of teh great dustbowl in the american plain states early 20th century. "They" always know better... but they really don't. There are apps that can caclulate and add up from your guaranteed labels the ppms of all the nutes given. this total is what matters, not the products used, for the most part. Ingredients in fertilizers come from a fairly small pool of options, therefore you mostly get very similar stuff no matter what brand you buy.. there's specialty stuff that's a bit odd but would only be used in small proportiosn to balanced formulas out etc etc... bottom line is like generic Rx drugs, you don't get tiers of quality of typical fertilizers... easier. For a soilless context you simply apply a well-balanced ratios at 1.2-1.5EC overall concentration... with a slight shift in flower. The following is on the light end, and you may need to amp it up a bit depending primarily on local VPD differences from one garden to the next. 10-20ppm of plant-available silicon isn't a bad idea either, but not necessary. 120-130 N (ppm) 40-60 P 180-200 K 100+ Ca 75 Mg 100-110 S Doesn't matter what brand you buy.. these ratios work consistently and repeatedly no matter how many different strains you grow at once. The brand is the least important factor in fertilization. Start somewhere around those numbers.. being exact isn't important. In flower you'll probably want to drop that N ppm to 110ish. there's lots of research out there that tracks the mass of N/P/K et al that is given and what they find in leaves and the inflorescent yield... If it ain't in there, it wasn't used. This is how you intelligenty resolve if giving more or less actuaaly went into building something in the plant. This is a complicated, ongoing process that needs more research to find "otpimal," but it's a far cry better than someone relying on their eyes and nose, because that's low-resoution amish-level science. That'd be cutting-edge methods in 1850 not 2024. you don't need massive amounts of p or k at distinct points in time.. the plant will use it throughout. A lot of what is repeated about this stuff is simply false because it is not repeatable.. it's not consistent because it has little to do with causality. Like saying flushing reduces minerals in the plant -- it does not. It reduces minerals in the substrate. The plant has no waste removal system. When a plant transpires, it does not lose minerals. when you prove that to someone using that reasoning, they then make up some new shit that is just as unlikely to be true because at no point did they actually study or verify their feelings on the subject. this is a sure sign of groupthink. A sure sign that a popular belief is simply not true and never was. You may need to baby seedlings a bit. Clones are also their own little subsection. A 1.2-1.5EC may not be best for younger plants but also won't burn them, either. It doesn't have to be diluted much, if at all. I like consistency in my substrate. Never had a problem early on from it.