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Help the rookie w/ a possible calmag deficiency?

MrLahey
MrLaheystarted grow question a year ago
Does this look like a calmag deficiency? Link to my journal entry for settings/water param/etc for these to see if you can spot the issue? growdiaries.com/diaries/187101-grow-journal-by-mrlahey. Using TDS 0-2 ppm ro/di water with calmag additive.
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Week 3
Leaves. Veins - yellow between
Leaves. Color - Mottling
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Sirdukevonwalter
Sirdukevonwalteranswered grow question a year ago
I'm new to grow dairies but 10 plus years ago when I transitioned to growing indoors, Happy Frog was a goto. With a base of ocean forest when going from 3 gallon to 5 or 7 gallon for the 1st 3 weeks of flower. Going from a Solo to a 5 gal is a huge jump. By going to a 5 gallon you've likley created a overwatering condition, meaning not enough oxygen at the roots when you feed or watered. This is most often the cause of weird deformed growth and you can have a new grower chasing all kinds of early stage deficiencies as well amdsome grow shops willing to sell you anything you think you need. Under development of roots and excess water is bad. Try to not chase the deficiencies. Try not to react by throwing nutes at it. Root cause at this stage is lack of oxygen at the roots. This can throw all kinds of deficiencies that only require you let that soil dry out between waterings. Completely. If you stay in the 5 gallon, expect a slow down or a complete stall in growth for weeks due to this. Likley weeks before the soil drys enough for roots to develop. Suggest you get a cheap moisture probe. Just for reference, not accuracy. So you aren't tempted to water too soon. Be patient, let the soil dry and the weed will correct itself in time if root rot doesn't set in. Or, If these were mine, I'd pull the the cup sized root ball out of the 5gal (save your soil) and put em into a 1 gal hard pot. Mix your happy frog with 20% perlite in advance before the transplant.. Trim all those huge hand sized leaves out. Definitely growing like a heavy indica. It'll grow leaves back fast in a smaller pot with more oxygen at the roots. Water the 1gal until run off and leave for 1 week or until feels really light, water one more time and transplant 3 gallon around 3 days or when feels a little dry/light to lift. Then water just the outside rim of the next pot up. If the stem of a fan leaf points up it has enough water. Even if the leaf itself drops. Dont stress how it looks today. Ive seen solid yellow clones grow pounds of healthy hard nugs after they were brought back to health. All this growth your looking at is going to be old and trimmed off by the time you get to flower anyways. The damaged leaves won't heal. Trim off the sick.. Watch the new growth. Make her healthy for flower. Don't bother reading the ppm of happy frog soil runoff. It'll be in the thousands when new. Its deceiving. Eventually the happy frog becomes imbalanced and required flush and a proper feeding schedule. If your using any calmag, use at 20% . In happy frog, once your plants are taking off, you need almost nothing added to your water for a week per gallon of soil. Except calmag at 20-50% as your soil gets used up and your plant gets bigger.
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AsNoriu
AsNoriuanswered grow question a year ago
They are overfed already , thats your issue, looking at how they developed. Thats your main answer. You dont feed in soil till week 3 or 4, slow down. I would guess some watering too early is happening too.
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Sirdukevonwalter
Sirdukevonwalteranswered grow question a year ago
The only reason I suggest the calmagic with the fox is because your using RO water..you need to be able to PH the water to 5.8-6.2..RO water doesn't PH adjust well alone.
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Incognitus
Incognitusanswered grow question a year ago
too early to see magnesium symptoms if only 3 weeks in, but looks like it's beyond 3 weeks in these pics. that first one ... looks like nute-related and also non-nute related things. the many spots in first pic could be big related, but ifno "honedew" glistening around edges, could just be veriegation. the way the leaves in that first pic are even on new growth looks like genetics/veriegation type mutation. the interveinal chlorosis on lower leaves is probablay nute related. Can see that symptom on the 2nd pictured plant too. the third plants looks fine, eh? so that fugly one is probably just fugly and may have some unusual nutrient needs on top of that. the intervienal chlorsis is tough to diagnose. not really adhereing to immobilbe vs mobile as far as where it is on plant. too early to see mg issues if diary weeks are accurate, but if 30-35+ days from sprout is possible. (huge lage between mg-deficiency and when symptosm are visible.. so if oyu see them at 4-5 weeks, you had an mg deficiency from day 1, essentially) calcium deficiency doesn't cause interveinal chlorosis.. i see no issues involving calcium here.
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JaylynnMaurie
JaylynnMaurieanswered grow question a year ago
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Koppy
Koppyanswered grow question a year ago
to much nutriens yes calmag to hight take half and incressed later u have more roots and leaf
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Hashy
Hashyanswered grow question a year ago
I'm not familiar with your nutes so I'll take it as your using them in the correct amounts and check ph is in range for your medium. Chances are your grow medium on that plant is slightly out on PH scale of what you need. Next watering get enough runoff to check ph off each plant to compare it to the others. If that ones runoff is a lot lower then the others it's a ph problem.
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Merlin123
Merlin123
HelpAny thoughts what's wrong with her? The other two are fine.
Leaves. Veins - yellow between
3 years ago
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