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Yellowing tips

ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 2 months ago
Changed nutrients as I am Now flipping to flower. What is the yelllwing of the tips of the leaves
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Week 10
Leaves. Color - Yellow
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SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question 2 months ago
Magnesium defic
Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Dog
Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 2 months ago
the plant isn't being fed properly despite follow your brands feeding chart, otherwise, interveinal chlorosis wouldnt occur. Many things can cause this... it's not 1:1 discrete relationaship with a cause. so it takes more than just looking at symptomsm to know for sure. Changing your formula clearly leans toward a imbalance in diet or a pH shift beign at fault -- unless you ph balance each formula to same point, of course. despite anecdotal insistance.. you don't need a drastic shift from vege to flower. You may need 10-20ppm less N .. maybe 10-20ppm less Mg.. giving more of p and k has been shown to not increase yield, but i have seen a whole lot of burnt and fucked up canopies from it, lol... and less photosynthesis absolutely does not positively correlate with yield. that's bonkers to think. for soilless this is easy to define. For soil it's difficult due to amendments and greater difficulties of such things being accurate and consistent from one bag to the next... always get somethign a bit different even if it's the same brand and product with soil. I'm in soilles, and this would work for hydro too: vege N/P/K/Ca/Mg/S, respectively: 130 60 180-200 100+ 70-85 100-110 YMMV due to difference in tap water. I have hard tap at 250-300ppm. so i likely get some ca, mg and such oh unknown quantities in addition to what i caclualte from my guarnateed analysis labels (tabulated above). flower 115-120 60 180-200 100+ 50 100 Since i've dropped both N and Mg, i stopped getting a rare occurence of dark foliage. I start to shift teh formuala right at flip, but step down my Mg in two steps by the 2nd week. Nor burnt canopies, lots of frost production, happy plants, easy to train... healthy, fast growing.. no reason to overfeed a plant if it can't use the building blocks fast enough -- when this occurs you get a toxicity and it doesn't help.. Even before that point, adding more of p or k that what is suggested above won't have an impact on yield. local variables matter... e.g. if your vpd is higher than mine, you may need a lower overall concentration, but ratios should be similar -- the impact of my tap vs your tap could slightly change those ratios, but in the end the plant will want something similar as most do... Some strange plants do exist with esoteric diets. I consider these products of poorly selected parents, since such a thing is mostly avoidable. Any breeder that doesnt consider these traits is doing us all a disservice. Creating plants with esoteric needs is not a good trait to pass down and it is absolutely a choice. this is a consistent and proven method. They are not my "ratios" .. They are ratios derived from good research and scienctific approaches. Did i shift and adjust based on observing the plant? Yes.. and you have to, too... but if a fertilization method is not consistent, ther are better options out there, for sure. Fertilization should be the easiest thing you do.
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