The leafs are dark and light dots

Definitely not a cal/mag issue. Besides the paling, your plant shows classic overwater droop- which in hydro typically points to oxygen starvation or pH issues. Are your readings from when you mix or do you ever come back and check your tank?

light green new growth points toward too much p or k. If the paling progressed from inside areas of leaf to outer tips... that could be S-deficiency too. your leaves look a bit dark and 'clawing.. could be N slightly too high and impeding K (see "mulder's chart" for these relationships) Symptoms need to be cross-referenced with as much information as you can. If you take notes about how you feed over time, it will help you learn. soilless growing is 100% about what we add to the fertilizer. There's no buffer of soil pre-charge etc... you need to give a well-balanced full diet from the start. This makes diagnosing much easier if you track it. With soilless grows the answer usually sticks out like a sore thumb once you have a better familiarity of how much is needed over the long term to avoid deficiencies and toxicities. calculating ppm or keeping track of weighted-average of your NPK/CaMgS percentages off the labels, relative to you dosing... e.g. if it's 10grams of dry nutes, then each individual part is X/10 * 100%. A spreadsheet table can allow you to simply type in dose and percents off label and tabulate it for you. There are free phone apps, there are ppm calculators on the web. 1.2-1.5EC should be fine, but even feeding low could be out of balance and show a tox, but less likely. insufficient info. NPKCaMgS 120-130 50-60 180-190 100? 50-75? 100-110 That would be from the fertilizer only and not counting what your tap water adds. You may get a bit of Ca or Mg, for example. I have hard tap water, so you may need more of both of those than i do. Mg is teh weird one. It takes 35+ days before you see symptoms from the onset of an Mg deficiency. So if oyu see an mg-deficiency you need to look back more than a month to understand how it happened and avoid it next time. With coco you can do 2parts coco 1 part perlite, if you want a bit more time between irrigations. More doesn't hurt, but does make you water more often -- which can be a positive on its own too. if oyu use sphagnum peat moss as a base for soillless growing, you'll want that 50% perlite (or similar, e.g. vermiculite adds available silicon, which means you can skip one more fertilizer product).