notice any nutrient deficiencies or toxicity ?

Looks relatively healthy. I don't mind lower, shielded leaves too much. They start to show age at some point. HArd to assess leaves under a grow light, though. I like to spread a plant out more with slightly longer internodes, but that wholey depends on your end target. I need to cover 2x2 area per plant, so that impacats how i grow it early on... those early nodes will all be pruned off in my context so having nice tight internodes isnt' my goal at first.. still want them close enough to form really strong branches and thick vascular tissue, of course. I'm just not gassing it as hard as i can until canopy is level and i let it grow vertically. that photone app can be a good tool, but don't expect it to be accurate. it precisely calculates "a" dli, but that doesn't mean it is accurate. +/- 10-15%, probably. the flux density of the light (the area under the graph showing peaks and such for wavelengths) will impact how it converts klux, which is what it measuers, to ppf, which is a single point of umol/s of PAR. you need severage points of PPF over an area to measure PPFD. which is then referenced with hours of operation to get DLI (see wiki). That's okay, though. The key isn't accuracy but consistency. There's no specific DLI to hit. Your local variables dicate max DLI.. ambient co2, temps, rh% all impact rate of photosynthesis or max photosynthesis that can occur per day, and that is directly tied to maximum DLI it can handle per day. So, obsserve and react is a mush even with a true quantum meter. So, adjust liggth based on growth pattern, once that is how you want it, then measure the "DLI" with photone. That number is your target. You can't know it until you find it. If you like the current distance between node that develops over time, then you got it down. Climate changes may impact this too... less photosythesis potential = lower dli threshold before it damages or stunts something too. fwiw, the distance and power lines up well for 35-40 DLI with reflective walls. If doing photoperiods, it's helpful to tweak light for roughly 66-70% power and correlating hanging distance (18-20" or so?). Thre reason being is when you flip to 12/12 from 18/6, it directly correlates with jumping from 66% to 100% .. you'll maintain same DLI if your dimmer knob has any accuracy, of course. Don't have to change hanging distance at all except to keep up with plants, but same distance as whateer you worked out for 18/6 cycle, which is convenient. 100w .. to be at 40 dli, prolly need to keep that to 2.5-3sq ft. it'd be just under 3 sq ft.. prolly need 35-37w/sq ft with the efficacy of that light. That's what sets your hanging distance when done right... area of coverage (if photoperiods, area of coverage relative to 12 hour operation, too) So, the lesson is that each growlight with a slightly different spectrum will convert slightly differently.. i.e. not accurate. Based on your mention of 700mL and 'still wet' ... you are watering poorly. It will catch up with you eventually even if you get through a grow or two doing it poorly. Always wet entire substrate, never stop short of that. A little runoff is fine in soil, but does leach off your amendments. Wait for top 1" to dry and repeat. Add fertilizer relative to concentration at which you mix it.. personal preference.. every other? overy third? 1/week? whatever you choose you can find that equilibrium over time. The volume of water required is the volume it takes to get the job done and not a number you randomly choose. if you consistenly water at same loss of weight, it will require the same volume of water. if soilless, fertigate with 1.2-15EC well-balanced diet every irrigation with a religious 10% runoff waste water -- can be used outside but not for any other potted plants. If sphagnum peat or another high-capacity substrate, wait nearly as long as you would for soil, at least early on. With something like coco that holds 2/3rds the water per volume, you water at teh first sign of drying up top. Also why oyu only need 33% perlite + coco vs 50% with sphagnum peat moss base. Slight shift in bloom but nothing major.