Red poison from sweet seeds

Salam Palancha! 👋 Those ladies are looking dark and mysterious! 🌑🥀 You are definitely on the right track, but like the others said, they are very green for this stage. That dark, lush green usually means they are still full of Nitrogen. Here is the fix: 🛠️ Cut the Nitrogen (Grow Nutes): Completely stop giving any "Grow" nutrients now. The plant doesn't need them anymore. The Fade: We want the leaves to start turning yellow/purple now. Red Poison is famous for its beautiful colors, but right now the Nitrogen green is hiding them! Let her "starve" a little bit so she uses up the energy stored in those big fan leaves. 🍂 Watering: If you are close to the finish line (trichomes are cloudy), just give plain, pH-balanced water. Let her clean herself out. 💧 She is going to be a beauty once those fall colors kick in. Keep pushing! 🚀 Happy Growing! 💚 wolfvb

Great 👍 you managed to bring your plant to the harvest window. You just need to flush your plant, to break down all its nutrients. If you want to bring up the sugar (C6H22O6) taste, you must get rid off Nitrogen (N) Phosphorus (P) Potassium (K)

Dial back fertilizer concentration - They look very lush (dark). A little fade is safer than getting darker over time. Make sure it doesn't fade too fast, of course. I prefer not to see any fade until the last couple weeks. Some leaf symptoms are a result of senescence too, so the rate of progression is the key to focus on when it gets difficult to discern cause. A fade is not necessary, just make sure it's not trending darker over time. Keep it healthy and as blemish free as you can, otherwise. Still need building blocks (nutrition) for ripening, but without stem elongation and leaf growth, it needs a lot less than before. in a soilless/hydro context, probably only need ~500-600ppm to maintain health and avoid fast-trending deficiencies. Calculated from gauranteed analysis labels and not a TDS reading converting EC.. converting ec to ppm is not accurate... Just the brand of the device you use results in a 30-40% difference in value displayed because they whimsically use different conversion factors (500 scale vs 700 scale vs 650 scale etc). This doesn't mean much for a soil context, but roughly translates.. you can find a level of fertilization that more closely meets needs and if anything causes a slow degredation in leaves rather than continueing to buld up to toxic levels late in flower. trial and error... if it fades too fast, bump back up... if it continues to get darker, go a bit lower with concentration etc... easy peasy.