Well the finale is here 76 grams from this plant buds are pretty nice and large. Stay turned for next grow !

Man this one is frosty Sawdust is for the thrips 💪

Ciao a tutti! Sono veramente senza parole per la quantità di terpeni e tricomi, mai avuti risultati simili. Devo dire che la linea advanced nutrients sta facendo tutto il suo dovere, non ho mai sentito un profumo così, si sente anche fuori di casa. Ho defogliato ancora tra una rete e l'altra andando a eliminare tutte le foglie che erano inutili, per evitare rischi muffa (visto anche l'umidificatore acceso) e per far sì che aria e luce non abbiano impedimenti a circolare liberamente. Penso che manchino 3 settimane, dalla prossima inizierò con l'overdrive per far sì che la pianta inizi a scaricare tutto quello che ha. Sono veramente soddisfatto, senza parole. La prossima volta metterò solo più due vasi e due strain, per ridurre il consumo di acqua e fertilizzanti, ho visto che ce la posso fare tranquillamente e più o meno nelle stesse tempistiche, visto l'eccessivo allungamento avuto questa volta. Una nota di merito allo strain, la barney's non delude mai ma la mimosa evo è veramente top, lo scorso anno ho fatto quella normale stavolta per orange punch e devo dire che è lo strain migliore che ho messo finora. Bene, continuerò a rifarmi gli occhi, a settimana prossima! 🤣 🍀😎💪🏼🔝

Ya empecé esta semana regando con un litro un día si y un día no y alternando también los fertilizantes un riego con ellos y otro sin. Al poner le el led a la carpa pequeña para el final de la floración ha subido mucho la temperatura pero espero que aguanten.. creo que esta será la última semana que eche fertilizantes como lo veis?

3/21: Just letting her do her thing for now contemplating on taking a few leaves off 3/22: I talked to the company yesterday that I purchased my light from in early February they said my Optic 4 XL LED will ship out this upcoming week......I’m definitely happy about that news I really need more light what I have right now since I had to take down my cheap Chinese blurple isn’t cutting it 3/24: Fed plain water and took off a few bottom leaves, in a few days I’m going to pry her open more then I’m gonna try not to fuck with her as much unless it’s necessary. Received email that my Optic 4XLs shipped finally

Still stretching but also flowering nicely, started her on advanced nutrients big bud today at full strength along with Ionic grow just for the last stretch. Bit worried about the EC so might drop BigBud down to half if there's any burning tomorrow fingers crossed she's fine.

Plant looking way better than it did after being in a clone shipper for 3 days. repotted and pre amended the Jobe's All purpose for 8 weeks. The GH is there to cover the plant until the the all purpose starts to break down in about a week. The blood and bone meal will not be available for at least 2 weeks as they are long term food for the soil microbes.

Muy contento en esta tercera semana de flora, se le hizo la ultima limpieza de bajos y un poco de defoliación. Ya se pueden apreciar perfectamente las preflores y sus distintas coloraciones, ya que al ser de semilla aunque todas sean la misma variedad cada planta muestra sus fenotipos dominantes.

A great week. Included a diagram so you can better tell which plant is which. I will be changing that up come flower to better fit the plants so I'll label them later as well. Gonna flip to flower I believe to try and save space. Gonna be tight but wasn't planning that this time. Have to do a lot of training still. Haven't gotten to it due to being so busy with life. I got some BT var israelensis or something close to that for the fungus gnats thanks to @resimax and will test that. Lastly, you might catch a glance at the upcoming diary...

continuamos la semana apunto ya del final del ciclo de estas maravillosas geneticas, ya hemos cortado una fruit gum y esperamos a que se seque para hacer una cata

11.13 - 11.19 *Recycled Coco/Perlite* ---------------------------------- 11.14 - 1.5 Sil, 2 CM+, 2 M, 3 B, .25 FLP, .25 EW ----------------------------------- 3 Gallon Fabric Pot 75% Cana-Coco 25% Perlite Orange Cup ------------------------- Tent: 2’x4’x5’ GA Tent 600D 1 Gal Humidifier 1x 6” Clip Fan 1x 28” Oscillating Fan 1x 4” Carbon Filter with 2x 200 CFM ------------------------------------------- 3 Gallon Tall Fabric Pots Spider Farmer SF1000 LED - Spider-Farmer Optic 1 54W 3500k - opticledgrowlights Optic 1 XL 100W 3500k – opticledgrowlights Optic 1 XL 100W 3500k (Dimming) – opticledgrowlights Cana COCO - Coco Brick Perlite - Sta-Green Filtered Water – Everest Machine Botanicare Cal-MAG Plus General Hydroponic – Flora Series General Hydroponic – pH Up, pH Down Great White - Root Magic Mycorrhizae+ Real Growers – Recharge Fish Head Farms – Fish Shit Brer Rabbit – Blackstrap Molasses --------------------------------------------- Royal Gorilla Automatic data sheet Strain Type: Autoflowering THC: 20% CBD: Low Yield Indoor : 325 - 400 gr/m2 Yield Outdoor: 120 - 170 gr/plant Height Indoor: 70 - 100 cm Height Outdoor: 80 - 140 cm Flowering time: 6 - 8 weeks Harvest Month: 10 - 12 weeks after sprouting Genetic Background: Gorilla x Cookies x Ruderalis Type: Sativa 30% Indica 50% Ruderalis 20% Effect: Heavy, Physically Relaxing, Stoned Climate: Long Summers Flavor: Citrus, Fruity, Pine

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Today will be Day 64. Getting close to Harvest Day. Let me tell you. The smell was unexpected stink up the place and outside the grow tent as I come home. I also clean the bottom up little more and removed the dead 🍁. I use Cha Ching on Week 9 and on Week 10 will be the flushing week. Stay tune!

Day 36 Done nothing just let them grow and trimmed a few leaves Day 37 - watered them with feeding. Decreased the amount by 25% except the base nutes. Added 12ml CalMag on 4L water by request of the community. If leaves curl down more, I will consider a flush. Day 38 No feed. Color changed from the middleone overnight, I think that’s a good sign. Maybe someone can comment on that 💪🏽. For me it looks very good, I know a few leaves show signs of nutrient burn but I decreased already and no new signs appeared Day 39 No feed until tomorrow. Day 40 Fed them with very low amount of fertilizer. I aimed for a ppm of 1000 but I went a bit higher until I have osmosis water . Runoff ppm was 2000, but I have to say I am measuring ppm since this week and will fix this problem Day 42 No feed

Day 27 from seed: Wow these ladies like life it seems. Some very good growth this week and the switch to Mega Crop has started well so far. The Paler girl is starting to darken a little more now so let's see how we go. As mentioned in the video , I have been able to top them this week so the training can slowly begin . The only thing I need to sort now it the watering regime for the Los. They are doing good with the MC being used too. I am dialing them all in this week to see how green and healthy we can get them. I am looking forward to their smoke as these have been a strain I grew as a photo period a while back. Love these fast buds girls.

Critical purple kush is such an amazing plant. I got some great phenotypes from this batch. I have placed 5 of then into veg as mother's. I am astounded by the size of the buds on many of these plants. They are easily the largest I have ever grown. The smell if amazing like pineapples and fruit salad, the colors are phenomenal and show orange deep red pink purple green and more. I used super soil and they seemed to love it. I am very excited about my next round of purple kush because this one was so great. A few of these mother's will certainly be in my grow room for years to come.

Well, this week has been eventful. What started with a fly deciding to lay eggs in my buckets with larvae swimming around and chilling on my roots turned into a bit of a disaster. I used very weak H2O2 (diluted 3% solution). To try and clean infestation, the roots didn’t like it, even though the actual concentration of H2O2 was probs less than 0.25%. Lesson learned 🙃 It has given some of them a touch of root rot (this is an assumption because I can’t figure out what else it could have been). So growth has stunted a lot. Just before the bug problem, I increased EC to 1.1, this was probably another mistake, the smaller girls at the back with a smaller root mass got massive lock out, potassium, mag and calcium by the looks of it, coupled with a few not so well timed PH swings out of the 5.5-6.5 range gave me a lot to combat this week. But, life goes on, they’re still alive (just about)... As this is probably the hardest curve ball I’ve had thrown at me since I started growing canna, I have cut back the EC to 0.56 to allow them to heal. Probably wrongly decided to top them all as they were growing past 7th node, either it’s gonna pay off, or I’ll be posting harvest details of 0g by this time next week 👽 I am on a stay at home holiday from work for the next 3 weeks, so looks like my babies are staying in the ICU and I’ll do my best to bring them back to life 😊