Tag 7 - Ende der 1. Woche. Die Pflanze wurde bisher nur mit Wasser besprüht.

there's not much to say. the weather has been really shitty the last week. the summer in germany is really mixed. she's doing well and is slowly growing.

1.7.2k24 Power roots Alga Bloom Plagron PK 13-14

Hi this is Apple fritter auto by Royal Queen No idea of the week as I have not been keeping track and the only updates will be pictures and a video once a week until harvest. Wish you all a successful grow.

1.7.2k24 Power roots Alga Bloom Plagron PK 13-14

the weather in my part of germany is really bad for this summer at the moment. it's raining too much. i've put them in a dry place to prevent mould from forming. maybe they're not getting as much fertiliser. they'll get one more week and then they'll be harvested.

the weather in my part of germany is really bad for this summer at the moment. it's raining too much. i've put them in a dry place to prevent mould from forming. maybe they're not getting as much fertiliser. they'll get one more week and then they'll be harvested.

Tag 7 - Ende der 1. Woche. Die Pflanze wurde bisher nur mit Wasser besprüht.

Hello This is the end of week 5 and the beginning of week 6 of flowering. Went to post on Tues. but found no pictures in any of my diaries. WTF... 1/2 way there. Still got 5 weeks to go, I'm planning to harvest around Aug 15 unless I get some pests or mold. The inside plants seem to have gotten a little yellow. I'll give some extra nitrogen next watering. Ok. Short Comment. Have Fun. Chuck. Some how the nutrients got messed up. I look at it later.???

Start of week 5

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. The script to come. Removal of 660nm wavelength is the signal that triggers the plant to accelerate terpenes/flavinoids production in flowers, this is the mechanism the higher plant uses to attract potential pollination from further afield, survival of the species is no joke for the plant, it senses the sky around it has removed all the 660nm, the plant starts to focus on terpenes and flavinoids production if she has not been fertilized by this point she must attract pollination from a further afield. 3-day treatment, ZERO 660nm initiates accumulation, RH kept below 20% (harder than you think)(Dropping temps helps a lot). The plant can sense the humidity drought, the plant will close its stomata to prevent the release of moisture given the conditions. Two highly specialized cells, the guard cells that surround the stomatal pore, can integrate environmental and endogenous signals to control the stomatal aperture and thereby the gas exchange. The uptake of CO2 is associated with a loss of water by leaves. Control of the size of the stomatal aperture optimizes the efficiency of water use through dynamic changes in the turgor of the guard cells. The opening and closing of the stomata are regulated by the integration of environmental signals and endogenous hormonal stimuli. The various factors to which the guard cells respond translate into the complexity of the network of signaling pathways that control stomatal movements. The perception of abiotic stress (RH less than 20%) triggers the activation of signal transduction cascades that interact with or are activated by phytohormones. Among these, abscisic acid (ABA), is the best-known stress hormone released that forces closed the stomata. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Clinical death is the trigger the plant requires to start decomposing and breaking down said chloryphyll. The same way a clone doesn't die when you chop it off, most people hang plant to dry alive providing rh 60% drying slow which is so close to rh 70% (keeping clones alive). Boiling roots 30s clinically kills the plant and begins decomposing the chloryphyll breaking it down. Most people have it hang for the 3_4 days alive, it drys perfectly fine but breaking down chloryphyll to a size small enough to be attached to water molecules takes time. If the plant dries "ready" but only clinically died 12 hours ago well then you are smoking chloryphyll. 72 hours of zero light is a biological self termination trigger. Annoys me when I read people mock the 72 hours of darkness "DOES NOTHING", "POINTLESS". Boil roots or 72 hours dark, pick one otherwise your smoking 90% of the chloryphyll period. Chemical decomposition of chlorophyll must begin simultaneously to the drying process if you want smooth smooth. Then the Formative Mind ([at-oned] with Reason), he who surrounds the spheres and spins them with his whorl, set turning his formations, and let them turn from a beginning boundless unto an endless end. For that, the circulation of these [spheres] begins where it doth end, as Mind doth will. But to the Mind-less ones, the wicked and depraved, the envious and covetous, and those who mured do and love impiety, I am far off, yielding my place to the Avenging Daimon, who sharpening the fire, tormenteth him and addeth fire to fire upon him, and rusheth upon him through his senses, thus rendering him readier for transgressions of the law, so that he meets with greater torment; nor doth he ever cease to have desire for appetites inordinate, insatiately striving in the dark. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence. Upon orgasm, man releases dopamine, "dope", self-explanatory. A woman releases oxytocin, an extremely strong bonding agent. But there is a catch, the more people you use it on, the less bonding will occur. Promiscuity was sold with "Feminism". For the first time in history, there are more women above the age of 30 with no children than there are below. I was randomly reading around and had a little chuckle to myself when i read this, “In women it is usually accompanied by muscle contractions in the uterus, vagina and rectum, and sometimes in other parts of the body. In addition, the little known female ejaculation may occur to a greater or lesser degree, which is nothing more than a transparent liquid composed of different substances such as prostate antigens, enzymes, glucose and fructose secreted by Skene’s glands." My first thought was "Wonder what the NPK ratio is on that" Maybe I'll start my own specialized fertilizer company. Just bottle up some squirt and call it "Fannies Fluid", PACKED FULL OF ENZYMES! HIGH IN CARBOHYDRATES! BOOST YOUR PLANTS WITH ANTIGENS! Maybe just set up a lemonade stand.

Start of week 5

grow grow grow my darling :) she has grown wonderfully in the last few weeks and she is getting nice and bushy, just as i had planned. i will switch back to the biobizz grow fertiliser. the fish mix attracts too many flies and other insects.

it has grown wonderfully in the last few weeks. it is becoming beautifully bushy, just as i had planned. i will also switch back to the biobizz grow fertiliser for it. the fish mix attracts too many flies and other insects. she tolerated the FIMing very well.

Die Ladys sind jetzt ordentlich am wachsen

Getting close to harvest, trychomes on 2 plants on perfect level. other 3 may stay a few more days.

05.07. - 11.07. (DD.MM.) On 05.07. I corrected my LST again. The growth of the plant had increased considerably by 06.07.. When examining the plant, I noticed the first beginnings of flowers as can be seen in the pictures. So we are at the end of the growth phase and starting the flowering phase. I cut off a large leaf from one of the main branches because it was shading the branches below. (see pictures) I also cut off two small old leaves from the bottom as they were completely shaded and interfered with watering. (see pictures) I also watered about 500ml without fertilizer because some leaf tips were dark green and bent downwards. (see pictures) 08.07. Plant is growing great watered with about 1l with flowering fertilizer. About 200ml of water has flowed out of the bottom of the pot after watering, it has a pH of 6,5. I interrupted the lighting of the plant for about 4 hours today because i moved house. 10.07. Watered with about 500ml with flowering fertilizer.

7/3 Hot as fuck today. Japanese beetles were around. I killed a few. I'm going to have to go over and keep an eye on things. It reached 90° today for the majority of the day. I watered around 1pm as I noticed most of the bags were very light. I'm glad I held off on the BT. I've dealt with jpn beetles before so hopfully that won't be an issue. Things are getting big. It won't let me upload any pictures or the video I did. I may upload it to past week. Went back over at night and and plants looked dropy but it was after 7pm and they were just going to sleep. 7/4 Didn't take photos this morning. Found some jpn beetles. That's the damage I've been seeing. I went back over last night to hunt them but I only got two. There weren't any others. No biggie. I'll put some pics up from today after I get back 7/5 Didn't get a chance to check the plants out today. My intuition tingled around 1pm and I had just gotten home and I ran over to check them. They displayed minor signs of heat stress as seen in the pics (due to the super high humidity and 90° weather) and the bags were light. A few were REALLY light. I could see they needed water. I WATERED 4 1/2 GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. DO TO THE HIGH TENPS AND WINDS IVE HAD TO WATER THE LAST THREE DAYS IN A ROW. IVE SLOWLY STRARTED INCREASING VOLUME. I don't want to water until I get a shit ton of run off because I want to keep the nutes in my soil as long as possible. As you can see things are going great. Minor pests but notjing major. They're growing at a very rapid pace. I'll need to add another layer of supports soon and begin to LST some of these girls. I've got one seedling in a 10 gal and I'm pretty sure it's a feminized red runtz but it's in preflower and looks and SHOULD be a female but I haven't seen the white hair yet. Looks like a female preflower though. I do have one auto though in a 5 gallon tjats doing good too. I have a bunch of pics but the internet is too slow. I'll upload tomorrow. Started pouring around 6. 7/6 Poured sheet rain all night. After it had Bern super fucking hot and I watered my plants with 4 1/2 gallons. Oh well. If I didn't water we wouldn't have gotten the rain. The fabric bags makes watering easier. The wind will dry out the medium. We do have some rain in the forecast. A pallet fell over and knocked my 5 gal bucket with tje auto into a 10 gal seedling but it held the pallet up and didn't damage anything. Out of all the ways it coyldve landed it landed just right to not hurt anything. Everything is super healthy. I do have some random pest damage but it's minimal. I'll decide whether to use a spray or not. Didn't take pictures this morning. Was pressed for time. 7/7 Super hot even at 8a.m. Rained the majority of the day yesterday. Plants are getting HUGE. I'm going to have to build a second round of supports and should probably start some LSTing. They seem to like growing natural how they are (besides the original topping and FIMed. You can tell these are ALL very high % indicas. I'm seeing pistols spitting out everywhere. Event horizon and sherb cake seem to be in the lead. The seedlings have realky taken off. The one I put in the 50 has fan leaves the size of my hands. 7/8 Wow it has been extremely hot. It's going to be in the 90's again today. Checked my plants and it seems the GMOs seem to be using more water. Those bags were a little lighter. Seeing how there is no rain in for a few days I had to water. WATERED 3 1/2 GALLONS. LAST SEEDLING FINALLY SHOWED AS A FEMALE. 7/9 Bags are still heavy. Found ONE jpn beetle this morning. Plants seem to be bigger everytime I look.starying the stretch and spitting out some pistols. I took some pics of the pistles. I'll update 7/10 should've started a new week but I didn't. I'll make next week six days. Plants are starting ro stretch. Minor random pest damage but woth the heat they need lots of water. Noticed a couple dead interior leaves so I should probably go through everything and defoliate. I need to add another layer of supports as well.

Been away so small gap in the updates but hey so not long now as not drinking much water now and hairs a oranges so 1 more week and off to flushing mode smells potent big flowers and hard as rock Temps are being s bit high around 30c degrees but think is ok

Just growing through the net now, slight defoliation only when needed, cleaned out some low hanging leaves underneath and a few hopeless bud sites under the canopy. I feel like I could probably defoliate a bit more but not gonna push my first plant, just doing as much tucking as I can to help out. Its adding an inch plus everyday of height now and I am not sure how tall she is going to stretch, Im running out of room above the lights so from here on nearly every inch of stretch will be closing that gap. 18” now will be keeping a close eye and hopefully will not have to dim my lights. Currently running 200w @ 100% veg tuned.