📅 D85- 26/01 📜 Only fresh water from now on. She's not yet ready - 3-4 days more I think. ✍️ 0.1 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 95 cm 📅 D90- 29/01 📜 Not yet Ready ✍️ 0.1 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 95 cm

Almost flowering time for these babies…

Its Day 80, and I think i wanna put her to sleep for 48 hours Tomorrow-ish Day 82 : Mr. Pipi just did it... now she is in darkness

Day 113. And girls go WILD ;))))) Amazing run, smell, structure, liked even variation in phenos, but . .. i always say they could go a bit longer, but this time , they even SHOULD, but i was asked to move out and i want to squeeze one more grow till first of November .. One Tangie is so behind others, that i am thinking to kick her out outdoors even to finish up ... Anyway ; girls got theirs first heavy flush, at least 15 liters of water went through pots ... They will be chopped 25-26 of August. Happy Growing !!!

Nimmer lang dann sind die Damen reif :)

Flower Week 1 Day 0 to 6 - 4/22 to 4/28 Flip week and same day extreme defoliation to encourage top stretch. (flip day was actually 4/24) The defoliation of everything below the bottom two nodes really shows the difference of breakage on these. I'm glad I ran these through to the end as you can see the difference more directly on the same plants rather than 2 separate plants. (although Im sure you can gather the same information that way too) Feed this week was an auto pot reservoir feed at 600ppm total before add-ins. I used 450ppm Veg concentrate mix (recipe week 2) and increased to 150ppm Bloom concentrate mix (recipe week 5). I also added 1ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and ph balance this week was for 5.8 as it will be for the rest of the grow Videos Defoliation before and after Next week I plan to train the stretch and lowest branches for Schwazze defoliation on day 21 of flower. Feed next week will increase to 650ppm and it will be the first reduction of Veg Mix.

Hallo und herzlich Willkommen, Die Purple C. K. auf dem Balkon verlangsamt ihr Wachstum enorm. Sei dem Rausstellen ist sie noch gute 15 cm hoch gewachsen. Um Schimmel vorzubeugen haben wir nochmal ein wenig entlaubt. Das Durstverhalten wird auch geringer. Die Purple C. K. im Garten macht sich gut. Wir freuen uns auf eine neue tolle Woche und wünschen somit allen Growmies einen angenehmen Sonntag und eine erfolgreiche neue Woche! Vielen Dank an alle diejenigen die Liken, Kommentieren und unsere Updates verfolgen! VG 😎

----- WEEK 4 ----- ----- Day 22 ----- Looking great today. Bud sites are REALLY developing fast, no burned ends at tips of new leaf foliage even at 1500ppm feeding 20 liters yesterday. Residual humidity is finally under 50%. Dehumidifier took out 5 gallons of water over last 24 hours bringing basement from 50-52% (had 4 humidifier gauges all reading 50/51/52/52%) down to 47%. At this rate 3~ days basement is at 35% and tent is good at 40%~ residual humidity. Not a lot of smell yet, but I smoke all the time so my ability to smell pot is kind of hindered by the fact I waft the smell everywhere I go. Fertilizer regiment is the exact same this week. 1500ppm 18-20Liters depending on how long last feeding takes to dry. Still wet today, but these ladies drink it up during the day at an astronomical level compared to my last grows. Probably will put 1-2 more photos at end of light cycle tonight, maybe gets some shots at lights off to get true color for the diary. Humidity is pissing me off. Have 2 dehumidifiers going right now. Humidity is just ramping up and down all day. Turned 2nd one on about an hour ago. 4 hours from now i'll check the basement humidity and as well plants for some shots before lights off to wrap up today. Feeding tomorrow, wet dirt is almost unseen, can feel some residual moisture below a knuckle of soil depth. *EDIT* even 2 dehumidifiers aren't working as quick as I want. So i'm going all out.... 8lbs BULK silica gel (Biodegradable non-toxic food grade safe) orange colour that doesn't contain the toxic substance (BLUE COLOR) that turns green at 50-60% full capacity. Can be dried in oven at 0-2hrs at 250 Fahrenheit by watching color go back to orange. (use parchment paper!) 4lbs will go in bottom of tent in pillow case, i'll flip it over 2-3 times a day to allow exterior silica gel balls (4mm size) on floor be able to switch spots for maximum effect. Based on how fast it completely hits green, i'll then do this: 4lbs in tent goes into oven during A.M when i wake up lights on to dry, dry 4lbs goes into tent until next morning, newly dried 4lbs of silica gel bulk put into container just large enough to hold the amount and not add water... rinse repeat.. Time to % fully wet is what will change how often this happens. Will spread out the pillow case as thin and long as possible to try and have no "hidden" beads in the pillow case from humidity/moisture capture. I'll continue to discuss this strategy, it'll be delivered supposedly tomorrow. Humidity is the most dangerous portion remaining of my grow. Now that pruning was 100% successful and feeding/watering is something i can do in my sleep, the last remaining problem is humidity (mold, botrytis). I plan to use this diary to make a single diary for each strain, for august and september newbie/grower of the month contest entry. I will pull no punches making sure this grow goes off perfectly with high times award winning buds. I've done it before and I can do it again in bulk at 5x5 25sq foot tent size at 1000watts instead of 4x4 600w. No new pics for ... 3 1/4 hours before lights off. ** FINAL DAY 22 UPDATE ** Lights off time. here's some shots of a bud sites (used LED Flashlight for true white color under HID) I might have by accident switch labels on these plants (rofl) when I transplanted.. thought I caught the error.. but the Tropicanna Glookies is showing pink pistils which is Wedding Cake trait, and the Tropicanna Glookies will turn purple as bud coloration at end of grow.. so time will tell... Doesn't mean anything as both are fed and watered and pruned all same time same amounts. Sugar leaves are clawing showing potentially too much Nitrogen. Tomorrow's feeding I'll increase the Liquid Koolbloom and lower the FloraNova Bloom to let plant soak up some nitrogen... but this could be just due to other small factors. I'm not too worried there's no real signs of nute burn in the tiniest of new leaves. I'll find out how the lower FloraNova Bloom reacts to the clawed sugar leaves, and to the currently properly green fan leaves/new leaf structure on bud in a couple days from tomorrow's feeding. Will watch for magnesium/zing issues like last time although due to changes in nutrient requirements for growth factors (bud instead of leaves), zinc might not be as needed this feed and will not show deficiencies hopefully. Speaking of last feeding. The girls are done with the 20 Liters of water from yesterday morning. 36 hours right after they're dry. Tomorrow i'll be doing 24 Liters total watering. Tonight I fed each 500mL of tap water (10ppm 6.3-6.4ph) to prevent turgor pressure loss overnight. They're getting THIRSTY!!!! Till tomorrow! ----- Day 23 ----- Humidity still a pain in my ass can't wait for the silica gel. 24 Liters @1400ppm 6.4ph feeding Smell has increased to a very candy sweet smell. Its delicious. ***UPDATE*** Great pics from this evening. Sugar leaf clawing still happening but only in the shade. I'm not concerned I used 4mL total of FloraNova Bloom (4-7-8) so I HIGHLY doubt its nitrogen excess. (*EDIT*) I forgot I had fed a full dose of FloraNova Bloom to stop zinc deficiency symptoms so it's probably over nitrogen from the zinc feeding. The plants are huge luckily and today's 24L of watering had nearly zero nitrogen and would have flushed out any remaining, I will watch those leaves closely, luckily there are a lot of sights for photosynthesis even if the clawed leaves yellow or die off as they're in the shade and barely get any light as it is... Time will tell. Total amount of leaves effected would be under 10% easily so I am pretty confident things are moving forward as normal for the plants. Only Wedding cake effected too. Randomly pick off fan leaves that hide other bud sites. Wedding Cake has pink pistils in the LED light faintly, don't think I miss labeled them anymore. Not much to say today, just a slow battle with the Humidity and a beautiful time to watch the "grass" grow over the 12 hours of lights on. Bud sites are already connecting on larger stems, and are thickening much faster than I expected... she's in full blown bloom now look out !!! ----- DAY 24 ----- Humidity is finally dropping. Down 7% from normal tent wake up humidity. Gotta get down another 7%. No pics yet. Gonna let em grow a bit today. I am not too worried about the nitrogen issue, might get a tiny bit of die off but I went into the canopy underneath the trellis and the plants are great and looking healthy. I'd say under 1% of leaves showing any form of yellowing, didn't see any browning. The smell is RIDICULOUSLY sugary. My God it's like breathing in pure candy. Hopefully within a week or two the smell will develop just enough to be able to separate them from each other to figure out what each plant individually smells like. **UPDATE** Humidity goes up and down 5-7% throughout the day. Silica Gel is now in tent, will see how that does overnight. Plants doing well, I remove any fan leaves in the way of buds but try and not remove more that 7-10 a day to not induce stress. No worsening of Nitrogen excess, Yesterday's big feeding with barely any nitrogen looks to have helped. Buds are fattening nicely. Will be looking next grow to switch out floraNova Bloom for a less nitrogen filled micro feeder as i have liquid koolbloom and powder for the flower macro nutrients. Way too many nitrogen issues with this flower feeding. Tomorrow should be feeding. Soil currently moist, but within 3~hrs of lights on tomorrow I expect the ladies to need another 24 Liters. I'm going to do some research on specifically what micro nutrients i'd be missing with no FloraNova Bloom but utilizing everything else I normally use and maybe not use it at all for the next couple feedings and just increase the KoolBloom liquid and maybe throw in some Triple phase black strap molasses. *EDIT* Looking at the micro nutrient content of Blackstrap Molasses I will be using it instead of FloraNova Bloom from here on out, and only use Bloom once every 3 feedings to give just enough nitrogen for bud development. ----- Day 25 ----- Humidity is okayish. I'll be able to probably get away with it at this level if I clean up some fan leaves as buds thicken. Time will tell I've got about 14 days more before it becomes an issue. Plants look great. Watering intake has changed, but I don't know if it's the different irrigation feeding heads so I will be replacing all of them with 1 standard type (8 spitter black) or if the plants themselves having different intake requirements now. Order of Driest to most wet: Front Right - Tropicanna (1 old broadcast 1 old spitter) Back Right - Tropicanna (2 old broadcast) Back Left - Wedding (1 new spitter 1 old spitter) Front Left - Wedding (2 new spitters) Front left is the biggest one by hardwood girth (stem thickness) but the Tropicanna's have a ton more side branching and is more advanced in the budding size, so I feel if it's not an internal issue about to manifest and get worse, that it's about the amount of stomata each plant has, and the Tropicanna would probably have more. I have not backed this part up i'm about to say so take it with a grain of salt. I believe in plant botany, a large leaf or small leaf from the same plant will have the same amount of stomata but the larger leaf will be able to release more as the stomata hole is larger. So then it becomes a quantity vs quality. Wedding Cake can pump out water more per stomata, but Tropicanna has exponentially more stomata to release water at smaller amounts. Again don't quote me on this If I get bored I'll check it out in my Plant Botany books. Okay so I just checked an online scientific (frontier plant science) article titled "The Smaller the Leaf Is, the Faster the Leaf Water Loses in a Temperate Forest" and it doesn't prove my theory but states that due to border thickness and other reasons smaller leaves will lose water faster. So most likely, this isn't an irrigation issue, or a deficiency issue, but rather a simple botanical truth that my Tropicanna has much smaller leaves and a hell of a lot more of them then the Wedding Cake, so they will dry out faster, especially in a full sunlight environment. With this new knowledge, I will be feeding all plants as of normal, but keeping 2~ Liters at the bottom of the bucket and giving Tropicanna each 1L after auto irrigation for the additional water loss from smaller leaves. I mostly theorize and hypothesis out loud during my grows if you haven't noticed yet. It allows me to work out problems and see patterns that end up manifesting themselves in the future. The more I understand the beginning and subtle stages of an issue, the faster I can fix it or prevent further damage. I'm sometimes wrong, I'm sometimes right, but I always learn in the end and every one of my grows has been an exponential improvement on past mistakes. It's also why you'll never see me edit out where I'm wrong. That's just stopping me from learning, if a year down the road I come back and read this I won't remember that I withheld info and the exact details, hurting me and potentially making me re-do my error. Anyways... I fed about 200ml to Front right, 150 to back right and 100 to back left of tap water (10ppm 6.3ph) to even out the time between feeding being needed and turgor pressure loss. Going to tone back the feeding today, no FloraNova Bloom, going to aim for 1100ppm before ph adjustment. Went overboard on the nitrogen by accident when I saw the zinc deficiency and full fed FloraNova Bloom (starting to hate this fertilizer), and less than 5% of the back right plant have yellow tips on mature fan leaves but not new growth and the clawing hasn't worsened but remains the same. Third grow in a row FloraNova bloom has been a massive pain. At end of this grow I will be doing the nutrient math to find out what's missing micro nutrient wise in deficiency #'s present when removing FloraNova Bloom and choosing something else like the Molasses that has a hell of a lot less nitrogen and spot feeding with a Advanced Nutrients Micro (4-0-0) when nitrogen deficiencies could present themselves. Will still do 24Liters, but switch Bloom for Molasses. I've had molasses steeping at 1150ppm in 1L to give roughly 55ppm in 20 Liters overnight. I expect it to add 40ppm total to the 24L but I didn't do the math on a calculator just half assed it in my mind right now. Will update as need be today. **UPDATE** Fed 23L 6.3ph 1100ppm. No reason for 6.3 over 6.4 will go back to 6.4 next feeding was just lazy. Did a bit of fan leaf snippage. Took down some stems from bottom of bud stems on Wedding Cake that have shot up with long internodes. Cut off the from the first internode so the plant concentrates on the main stem for bud development and not lower side shoots wasting nutrients and time. Will do small defoliating here and there, not enough to make a difference, just any that could trap water and therefore botrytis/mold. I also shake all the plants multiple times a day (The stems are AMAZINGLY strong on Wedding Cake) to remove any moisture caught between leaves. Curling leaves are slowly lessening, seems like there were fewer when I went down to feed. Could be just my eyes but I feel like the plants back at 100%. Couple photos at lights off in 6~ish hours will be updated. Maybe able to see the difference in curling leaves. I'll make comparison shots from previous photos and if it's noticeable i'll post them here. *EVENING UPDATE* Pics popped up. Check out the cardboard pick and the single stem pick from Wedding Cake. Claw still there but the Buds are filling in SO FAST it almost looks normal lol. Tropicanna glookies is doing a popcorn nug style grow. Wedding Cake is just wild.. feels like easily 7-10 days ahead of some of my other grows on bud connection + thickness. Smells great, super sugary. I'm trying to figure out if it's cherry or strawberry notes. I can smell something fruity/citrus like but can't put my memory to the smell yet. Gotta let it get thicker dank first. This might be a redonkulous yield but I'm knocking on wood and not counting the chickens before they hatch yadda yadda. Till tomorrow. *last edit* Forgot that I put in Diamond Nectar for the molasses. 15ml total in 23L today. Used to assist in the chelation of the molasses and other nutrients. Will feed Diamond Nectar during Molasses feedings only and not during FloraNova Bloom iiiiiiiif it's needed to top up some nitrogen during bud expansion photosynthesis... there is thousands of leaves probably so it might need it. Time will tell. Cheers *Edit* ** YO I SEE MY ERROR, ALWAYS RE-READ YO SHIT lol** ((DOUBLE BRACKETS IS CORRECT MATH)) Been mulling around with numbers in my head. I wanted to do some math around the clawing of nitrogen and what it took per plant and eventually work out the ppm requirement to prevent clawing in these genetics further down the road for reveg. This may change somehow in the future: Day 15 - 1450ppm in 8 Liters of Full Flora Nova Bloom (extra feeding to prevent zinc deficiency... Usually only 100ppm in 12 liters was used) ERROR HERE -----> 1450/8 = 181.25 ppm per Liter of FL bloom <-- ERROR HERE Removing water won't change PPM!!!!! 8 Liters fed to 4 plants 181.25ppm / 4 plants = 45.3125 ppm of FL Bloom fed to each plant on Day 15 (( 1450ppm /4 = 362.5ppm)) That number x 4% (4-7-8 [n-p-k ratio of fertilizer]) = 1.8125 ppm of pure nitrogen per plant on day 15 feeding. (( 362.5ppm x 4% = 14.5ppm)) Anyone see any error in that math? (Also whats up with 181.25ppm /4 x 4% equaling 1/100th of itself in the end... too high to understand that connection) I'm going to go measure some stems tomorrow, but looking at Day 15 to day 25, 10 days (today) the fan leaf and sugar leaf has increased 40-60% on the Wedding Cake, and multiple main stems have increased up to 2-4 inches, while low side branches have sprung up to 10-12 inches in length before I cut them down today while also showing excess Nitrogen in sugar leaf clawing. This means that 1.8125 ppm of pure nitrogen in feeding Wedding Cake can produce massive vegetative properties during flower if applied at end of stretch transition phase of flower. ((14.5ppm!!!!!!!!) Especially since the canopy of each of the Wedding Cake plants is 2.5L x 2.5W x 1H feet in size so 6.25 cubic feet. If my math serves me right after a couple beers at 11 at night, 1.8125ppm of pure nitrogen can double 3.125 sq. ft. of Wedding Cake in 7 Gallon pots within 10 days. ((14.5ppm!!! 13~ x more !!! PREVIOUS MATH WAS WRONG DOUBLE BRACKETS IS CORRECT)) 1.8125ppm / 3.125 sq.ft of additional growth = 0.58 ppm... right? So 0.58ppm of pure nitrogen can double 3.125 sq feet of Wedding Cake fan leaf and increase stem height 2-4 inches while also showing excess nitrogen signs through sugar leaf clawing? That seems insanely low... but wow. ((4.4615 ppm of pure nitrogen per sq.ft.w of growth MUCH HIGHER)) Nitrogen during Transition stage is a very delicate beast even at very low properties and if only miss used once. Especially if your plants are friggin bonkers huge. In the future instead of full feeding a flower bloom with nitrogen included in the micro to offset a micro deficiency, I will just double or triple the normal feeding and lower the liquid koolbloom as the bloom micro had phosphorous and potassium. Also might switch out the fert for just Advanced Nut. Micro (4-0-0) and Molasses. I dunno yet, lets see how well the plants yield. Okay... end of stoner thoughts. *end of fixing errors hopefully* ----- Day 26 ----- Humidity still improving slowly, but it should be fine within the week, took 5 gallons of water out of the air last night between the 2 dehumidifiers. Basement is 43-45% Humidity depending upon what gauge you look at. Tent is roughly 50%. Plants are gorgeous. Everything's great. Will pop photos later tonight before lights off, slow day today, at most I might remove couple fan leaves if I see any in the ways of bud site development. I've figured out the candy like smells finally. Tropicanna Glookies has a pink bubblegum smell and the Wedding Cake is a sweet gum but hints of Cherry. Pretty wild as it doesn't even smell like pot. Roughly 35-40 days left. It's almost Big Bulk time. 1 more feeding in week 4 tomorrow. Starting week 5 no more big bud, will continue no FloraNova Bloom and spot feed only if nitrogen deficiency signs begin to manifest in small quantities. Molasses takes over for FloraNova Bloom with a bit of Diamond nectar to assist chelation. *edit* added photos. Feeding probably tomorrow early, or mid light cycle for sure. ----- DAY 27 ----- Feeding time shortly, prob 30min away. Updated some pics. No new real info. Slow boring part of the grow before big bulk starts. Going to feed 24 liters 1200ish ppm at 6.4ph with no FloraNova Bloom as there's no nitrogen deficiency signs currently. *UPDATE* Video 1 - Full shot of the tent, I moved the trellis netting to show how strong the stems are. Look at them wave like a sea of wheat in the wind. They're gonna be able to hold up POUNDS if they need to.. love it. Video 2 - Tropicanna Glookies Back Right popcorn buds filling in, they're already bigger than my thumb and I've got big hands. **UPDATE** god damn front right plant just stretched 3~ stems 2-3 inches... Why?? B-52 is 2-1-4 .. didn't even know it had nitrogen in it... Big piss off. I did not want more stretch. Will not be using b-52 anymore, will only use it for nitrogen if the plant shows deficiencies since it's pretty much a nitrogen fertilizer... god I wish i knew that earlier. Wedding Cake looks maxed out thank god as it's the highest. Tropicanna can always be "lowered" by removing the height supports under the pots thankfully. When you are feeding every 2 days 1300~ ppm at 24ish liters, 2 parts nitrogen is a lot of nitrogen... I'll be a hell of a lot more selective when choosing fertilizers with nitrogen (I've always known cal/mag is 1-0-0 but that's fine) Most likely from here on out its no more b-52 unless yellowing of under canopy fan leaves begins. Molasses is the replacement for bloom (with diamond nectar). .. Friggin Nitrogen, man. Luckily there is not a new production of fan leaves, only stretch and in only 3-5 stems currently. I'll watch closely. Luckily didn't do a full b-52 feed today. 20ml instead of 40ml in 24Liters of water. ----- Day 28 ----- Last day of week 4!!! No news is great news at this stage of grow. Added some pics, i'll add couple more before lights off. Feeding tomorrow, no more big bud, won't be using b-52 or FloraNova Bloom. *** CHECK THAT LAST PHOTO!!!**** 14 inch long stem, all internode spacing between buds is sufficiently short enough to get full coverage. By the end of this grow I am expecting this single stem to be a single bud structure 14 inches in length. We shall see but i am EXCITED!!!

Week 3 of flowering is now complete, and I’m very happy with how the buds are looking so far – there’s definitely some real potential here! The next topdress will take place next Friday, marking the start of week 5. I’m currently dealing with quite high temperatures, reaching up to 30°C at times, but the humidity is holding steady at around 60%, which is helping to keep things in balance.

~ WEDDING CHEESECAKE FAST FLOWER by FastBuds ~ Well fam, here we go again with another epic strain from FastBuds Fast Flowering stable. After having such tremendous success growing their Gorilla Cookies Fast Flower outdoors last year, I've decided to run another of their fast flowering strains outdoors this year... Wedding Cheesecake Fast Flower! The best description of this awesome cultivar comes directly from my friends at FastBuds which is as follows: "A delight for the mind and body: Wedding Cheesecake FF (Fast-Flowering) is a delicious strain that offers XXL yields in a 7-8 weeks flowering cycle. This terpene powerhouse produces loads and loads of mouth-watering vanilla-creamy-cookie-scented terps with hints of citrus and cinnamon. In addition to its delicious aromas, this variety grows very well in both indoor and outdoor setups, yielding up to 650 g/m2 without extra maintenance, making it the ideal strain for beginners as it allows you to maximize yields while minimizing work. This super-fast feminized photoperiod version offers upbeat and energetic yet deeply relaxing effects that are perfect for consumers looking for a heavily focused, motivating, and creative high. It’s the ideal strain for those needing that extra energy boost to start a busy day on the right foot. Wedding Cheesecake FF boasts chunky, large-sized buds with a thick layer of silvery-white resin and bright orange hairs scattered all over: that just screams ‘quality’. The lime-green flowers sparkle with an array of hues ranging from dark to light green, to magenta and purple, and reek of a delicious aroma that’ll remind you of fresh store-bought cheesecake. This is an XXL hybrid that grows extremely tall in height, reaching up to 3m with one huge main cola and multiple long side branches that can withstand enormous yields of up to 650 g/m2 with ease. Wedding Cheesecake FF is extremely resilient to the elements and can be grown in almost every climate as long as you’ve got the space and basics covered, making her an excellent choice for those looking for large-scale harvests with a quick turnaround time without much effort." ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Wedding Cheesecake FF indoors as our weather is still too cold to put her outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 30's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures stay above the mid 40's℉, at which point she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes, and then let the fun begin!🤪💚 ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 4/4- Here we go into the second week of life for the FastBuds Wedding Cheesecake FF, and she's doing really well! All I'm doing right now is making sure that her medium remains moist, watering only when necessary. I'm checking her root development daily and she will be ready to transplant outdoors any day now! 4/6- Today is TRANSPLANT DAY! I moved the Wedding Cheesecake FF outside to her prearranged 'new home' which I had previously prepped by adding some Coco/Perlite into the soil to improve the texture and drainage. I then pre-amended the soil with Gaia Green 4-4-4 All Purpose slow release dry amendment along with 3g of Wiggle Worm castings, 2 cups of ground Alfalfa and 1/4 cup of Extreme Gardening's MYCOS. After which, I kept the soil moist to allow the microbial colony to populate for a week. To transplant, I first made a hole then placed a Solo cup in it to make sure that the depth was adequate, then packed the medium up against the cup firmly which leaves a nice Solo cup shaped hole in the ground. I then wet the inside of the hole that I formed and coated the hole with Extreme Gardening's MYCOS root enhancer, after which I removed the Wedding Cheesecake FF from her Solo cup and placed her snugly into her new home! After planting her in the ground all that was left to do was lightly water her in... Let the fun begin!🤪 4/8- The Wedding Cheesecake FF from FastBuds is doing extremely well in her new environment. To be quite honest I was slightly hesitant to place her outside this early as we are only getting approximately 13 or so hours of sunlight daily. Based on my experience last year growing a Gorilla Cookies FF, which was placed outside at a similar time and did extremely well, I went ahead with the transplant, confident that she would be just fine. 4/11- I'm watering around every 2-3 days right now using water straight from my well through a garden hose... super simple! I do not worry about PH as long as the water isn't chlorinated and is good enough for me to drink, it's good enough for my plants and the microbial colony in the soil will adjust the PH to where they need it and at the same time provide the nutrients that the plant requires... again, nice and simple. Well there goes two weeks for this little lady. The next coming weeks should see an increase in size and vigor as long as the weather cooperates... fingers crossed!🤞 Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

Easy grow, except banane, but result are really good, I'm satisfied for my first Scrog, Next time I'll save 4 branches and not 8 like this run, because the down branches give me not good buds, I've put to the trash around 6 branches with very little bud, so I think it's better to got the same with 4 branches topped to got 8 buds. Thanks for follow and like this diaries, see you on my other grow in Progress, Special thanks to @James and #RQS, for trying this strain and fertilizer 😘.

🙏 Big thanks to Plagron and Zamnesia for putting on the Eternity Grow Cup 2025. This kind of platform means a lot to the community. The chance to push our grows, test out new techniques, and connect with other cultivators from all over has been inspiring. Appreciate the love and effort that went into making this event happen! Hope everyone enjoyed looking over my shoulder on this grow and best of luck to all participants! REVIEW - Runtz (fem., photo.) from Zamnesia: ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬜⬜ The seeds from Zamnesia germinated rapidly, rooted strongly, went wild in veg, and produced an ample amount of high-quality medicinal flower. The diary speaks for itself on that front so this space will be more of a phenotype review. The plants were labelled A, B, and C from left to right respectively in photos. A and B were the 'clasicaly-appearing' sativa-esque leaves while C was the more 'indica-appearing' phenotype. Although A and B appear the same qualitatively, they did produce substantially different amounts of flower (despite their DLI being near max out for the entire tent footprint without supplementing CO2, so I do not think just being in the middle attributed to this). Past their different yields, A and B also have vastly different profiles. A is a classic gelato/ice cream cooler/Z terps, and my personal favorite of the plants (wish I had taken a clone of this one instead). B is the most on point for what I think of with Runtz, classic Z terps but with a slight tropical/rotten/sweetness to it. C had the misfortune of being ready to chop a little earlier than the other girls so her profile is mostly just spicey kush now. I did observe intersex flower sites but given the entire context of the diary and how the plants performed, I have to assume it was user error. No pollination observed in any of the flowers, as zero additional intersex sites occurred. The distinction between A, B and C is what I would expect from a typical F1 cannabis seed. I do not enjoy growing from seed much but these girls were manageable. Add to that the relative stability of the genetics for a Runtz recreation, and well, these are good quality beans for a great price. Not only is Zamnesia responsive and available, their confidence speaks volumes. How many vendors would have an in-house Runtz, knowing how much of a genetic-gravity-well it is in, and be confident enough to let ~200 randos grow it and show it? REVIEW - Green Sensation from Plagron: ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬜⬜ I enjoyed using the green sensation, the NPK values on it make it versatile in application and a power-house in flower. I can't say I noticed anything better or dramatically improved, although comparing to Heavy 16 and asking for a marked improvement is big ask in my opinion. What I was able to do was seamlessly integrate the Green Sensation into my current routine. The additive stayed homogenous, was easily introduced into solutions with no adverse impact to the water contents or pH. Most importantly, the plants enjoyed the additive and it did accomplish the main goal of being able to wane off your primary line. In this respect, by using Green Sensation I was able to save resources by lowering my Heavy 16 inputs across the board approximately 50% and supplementing with Plagron's Green Sensation.

The grow was smooth, employed some new techniques when growing and they performed well! Nice bush plants

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

So in just the last week, the plants already doubled. GSC went from 11 to 22". Widow went from 8 to 14". Gelat.og went from 10 to 18". GSC seems to want to grow up quickly. Huge growth spurt. Flowered after 3 days. Flowers are developing well meanwhile the other two are just showing a few tendrils. Hopefully an uneventful week.

Final Week Just Plain Water being given I will not water the Last 4 days And I’ll keep lights off for 48 hours Very Strong odor I’ll check trichomes middle of week and reassess

❤️SkUnK❤️

Hello everyone 😎 Day 30 she grew fast with a great structure and with a beautiful green colour on the leaves. She is responding superbly to topping and Ist aswell growing like nothing has been done to her! Have a great day 👨‍🌾🏻